3rd Gear "cough"

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firestoned

Postby firestoned » Tue Oct 09, 2007 9:14

So this morning on my way to work, I accelerated from a stop light through 1st and second fine, went through third to about 3500rpm's in third, and the car had a huge hesitation for about a 1/2 second, then a mild clunking noise, and turbo kicked in like normal. I thought I had read something about this on 6club, but couldnt find anything today. I forgot about it, and then on my way home, it happened again, in the same general RPM's, and in third gear. Has anybody else had this happen? Whats goin on....?..?..?..?

SpeedRacer
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Postby SpeedRacer » Tue Oct 09, 2007 9:14

hrm weird... brandon would be the pest person to ask PM him on this?
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Rich
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Postby Rich » Wed Oct 10, 2007 9:14

Was it cold outside? I believe there's an issue with cold temps and CAIs messing with the ECU.

arctic_blue83

Postby arctic_blue83 » Wed Oct 10, 2007 9:14

3500rpm is where those cars make peak torque/boost.... you probably just had a boost spike and hit fuel cut. Did it feel kind of like you were hitting a wall for a split second? Typically when I had my MS6 I only had boost cut in 3rd gear and above, this is because the higher/taller the gear the more load created on the motor, resulting in slightly more boost. The cool/dense air we've had lately can add an extra psi or 2 to your normal boost levels. Picking up a boost gauge wouldn't be the worst idea... but I would put my money on boost cut.

firestoned

Postby firestoned » Wed Oct 10, 2007 9:14

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (arctic_blue83 @ Oct 10 2007, 06:40 AM) [url=index.php?act=findpost&pid=4430]<{POST_SNAPBACK}>[/url]</div>
3500rpm is where those cars make peak torque/boost.... you probably just had a boost spike and hit fuel cut. Did it feel kind of like you were hitting a wall for a split second? Typically when I had my MS6 I only had boost cut in 3rd gear and above, this is because the higher/taller the gear the more load created on the motor, resulting in slightly more boost. The cool/dense air we've had lately can add an extra psi or 2 to your normal boost levels. Picking up a boost gauge wouldn't be the worst idea... but I would put my money on boost cut.[/b]


Yeah, I have a boost gauge, yesterday was 75 degrees on my way home, couldnt have been because of the cold, but yeah, it did kinda feel like I hit a wall for a split second, and what you said makes sense.. theres no real way around that issue then is there besides a management system, right?

arctic_blue83

Postby arctic_blue83 » Fri Oct 12, 2007 9:14

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (firestoned @ Oct 10 2007, 06:57 AM) [url=index.php?act=findpost&pid=4433]<{POST_SNAPBACK}>[/url]</div>
Yeah, I have a boost gauge, yesterday was 75 degrees on my way home, couldnt have been because of the cold, but yeah, it did kinda feel like I hit a wall for a split second, and what you said makes sense.. theres no real way around that issue then is there besides a management system, right?[/b]


You can pick up a Fuel Cut Defender if you like. It's a lot cheaper than an engine management system. I used both the ATP boost cut killer as well as the TurboXS fuel cut defender.... the ATP is cheaper, can be picked up for about $70, it's just a bleed valve that goes over the MAP sensor, takes about 5-10 minutes to install, very easy, it allowed me to push about an extra 1-2psi without hitting fuel cut.

The TurboXS FCD can be picked up for around $110, it has to be soldered into a MAP signal wire, and is used to manipulate MAP signal voltage, with it you can COMPLETELY eliminate fuel cut, at any psi if you want, or you can set a "boost cap" to allow for fuel cut to kick in at a certain boost level. If you know what you're doing it can be hard wired/soldered into your car in about an hour. The only thing is, on my car is threw a CEL (code P0069) for MAP/Baro correlation, which just means with the car off the barometric pressure sensor wasn't matching up with the MAP (manifold absolute pressure) sensor... which since you're manipulating the MAP signal voltage made complete sense lol. Now I know another guy here in Colorado who was running almost the same setup I was (DTEC FCBC & FCD) and his car never threw a CEL, there's also plenty of people of people on mazda6club that never threw a CEL either... as a matter of fact, only one other guy I knew threw a CEL, so it's fairly uncommon, but wanted to let you know it's a possibility.

If you plan on picking up a Standback, it might be a waste of money to buy a FCD though, as the Standback should be able to eliminate fuel cut. It's up to you, and how far you want to go.


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