Well if your beat down is as good as your bowling I'm not worried either way[/b]
Wow, that's awesome!
Got the 8 back
-
ZoomPrincess
- Senior Member
- Posts: 2782
- Joined: Thu Sep 27, 2007 9:14
- Location: Aurora, CO
- Contact:
It's cheaper to bowl on base, so some guys get really good! A buddy and I used to buy a sheet for 25 cents a game at Offutt AFB. After a while, a sub-200 was very depressing and rare. lol
A Turbo BBQ sounds like fun! Do we need an engine hoist for this?
A Turbo BBQ sounds like fun! Do we need an engine hoist for this?
AIM WO4
[color=#339966][font=Microsoft Sans Serif][color=gray]CMZƆ[/color][/color][/font]
[size=75]2012 Sinful Sallow, Evo X GSR[/SIZE]
[color=#339966][font=Microsoft Sans Serif][color=gray]CMZƆ[/color][/color][/font]
[size=75]2012 Sinful Sallow, Evo X GSR[/SIZE]
-
Huzer21
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (AIM WO4 @ Feb 13 2008, 09:29 AM) [url=index.php?act=findpost&pid=25237]<{POST_SNAPBACK}>[/url]</div>
Quickly off-topic: Were those the lanes they had in the basement? I remember there being lanes in the basement of whatever building it was when I went out for some network support 10 years or so ago. For some reason, I think there was a boxing ring, too.
back on: So...what kit are ya getting? inquiring minds want to know!
It's cheaper to bowl on base, so some guys get really good! A buddy and I used to buy a sheet for 25 cents a game at Offutt AFB. After a while, a sub-200 was very depressing and rare. lol
A Turbo BBQ sounds like fun! Do we need an engine hoist for this?[/b]
Quickly off-topic: Were those the lanes they had in the basement? I remember there being lanes in the basement of whatever building it was when I went out for some network support 10 years or so ago. For some reason, I think there was a boxing ring, too.
back on: So...what kit are ya getting? inquiring minds want to know!
-
RX-7 Chris
- Posts: 7800
- Joined: Tue Oct 02, 2007 9:14
- Location: Colorado Springs
- Contact:
You can work on it at my place. I have an engine lift you can use if you need it. I will help you with the work if you want it. Once my car is back together, the garage is avalible.
I do not have a BBQ so some one would have to bring it.
I do not have a BBQ so some one would have to bring it.
1984 RX-7 GSL-SE [size=84]My restomod project[/SIZE]
1964 Ford Galaxie 500XL flat black w/ white interior, 2 dr fastback, 390 thunderbird, C6 auto, 2500 rpm high stall converter, shift kit, AC, Holley 750 cfm
[size=100]RIP 1983 RX-7[/SIZE]
My Car Blog
-
arctic_blue83
Sorry to hear about the hassle 
How long did you end up having the Subie? I only ask because I know a lot of dealership's have really shitty policies, where they get you to (unknowingly) sign paperwork agreeing to pay XX amount of fees if the car does not get financed. I know back when I worked at Burt Mazda (good Lord, I don't miss the car business), it was ridiculous, if a customer drove off with the car without knowing the loan was approved (which was common), if their finance guys couldn't get the deal bought by a finance company (bank, credit union ect), the customer would be charged like $50/day and $0.50/mile by the time the car got back... which I always thought was pretty effed up.
A word of advice to anyone car shopping... it's always best to know your credit score before shopping, as well as current interest rates banks are giving out. If possible, it helps to get financing in place with your own bank prior to actually buying the car, as a lot of times, let's say you have a 700 credit score, and you are actually approved for let's say 6.5% interest rate... well, what a lot of dealerships will do is tell you you're approved for 8.5%, when really they're just lying and making a profit off of the interest you're agreeing to pay... for getting you to agree to the extra 2% interest you didn't have to pay, the bank actually pays the dealership extra money, which adds to the total profit of the deal, and of course, goes towards the finance guy's commission.
Also, even with great credit, most finance companies won't go above 120% of the loan value of the car... in other words if you have tier 0/1 credit, let's say 730 credit score, and you're buying a car, find out what the actual book value of the car is before buying it. If the book value of the car is $30,000, even with awesome credit, 120% is pushing it, so if you're paying over book value, or trying to roll in negative equity from your old car, 120% of $30k means that they'll only finance you for a max of $36,000. That's assuming you have tier 0/1 credit... the lower your credit score is, the less the percentage of loan value the bank will be willing to loan you. If you're around national average of 650 or so, it might be pushing it to even get 110% of loan value, you're probably looking closer to 100% to 105%. Whereas, if your credit is fairly low, let's say 500's, some creditors won't even be willing to lend you 100% of the loan value, you may only be able to finance 80-90% of the car's book value, which is why they will require a fairly large down payment from you, in order to get you under the mark the bank will finance you at.
The reason for this is because the lower your credit score, the more of a credit risk you are. If you have a 500 credit score, there's probably a much greater chance that your vehicle may be repossessed, a much greater chance than someone with an 800 credit score. So, the bank takes this into consideration. A car with a book value of let's say $25k, if repossessed, will probably only bring maybe $21k if they have to send it to auction, which is why they wouldn't want to loan you the full amount, as banks are in the business of making money, not losing it because a repo'd car couldn't bring in the loan value at an auction. Then they have to send it to collections, and all that other crap banks hate to have to do ect ect.
So, that's why it helps to know your credit score before going car shopping. So that you know what you can, and cannot buy, as well as what current interest rates you're approved for. You can typically walk into any credit union (if you're a part of one) like Public Service Credit Union (which I've heard great things about) or Bellco (which I would no longer recommend) give them your credit score, and they should be able to tell you what their rates are for the term you're looking for, and what percentage of a book value they would be willing to loan on it. Actually, a lot of dealerships keep the EXACT same information from NUMEROUS finance companies, which are updated monthly, and typically just sitting right behind a manager's desk. If they're fairly open, they should be able to show you all that information... but a lot are shady, and will try and hide info like that from people they think they can make more money off of. Some will even go as far as lying about the actual book value of the car they're selling... but others, will tell you openly the actual finance book value of the car you're trying to buy.
It's a damn shame when something like this happens, as most of the time, it's something that can be easily avoided. Most of the time, a dealer can tell before you ever drive off the lot if they can actually get the deal bought, but some (a lot actually), will let you drive off, thinking they can somehow "structure the deal" to where they can convince some obscure finance company into buying the loan. Obviously, they can't always get deals bought... but most of the time, they could have told you that before you ever drove off the lot, or at least given you a heads up if it might not be financed. Which is why it's good to educate yourself on what you can buy beforehand, so you can save yourself the hassle.
Anyway, sorry to hear about all that Ghost, but maybe it's for the best?!? A turbo'd RX-8 is a hell of a lot more original than a WRX for sure
How long did you end up having the Subie? I only ask because I know a lot of dealership's have really shitty policies, where they get you to (unknowingly) sign paperwork agreeing to pay XX amount of fees if the car does not get financed. I know back when I worked at Burt Mazda (good Lord, I don't miss the car business), it was ridiculous, if a customer drove off with the car without knowing the loan was approved (which was common), if their finance guys couldn't get the deal bought by a finance company (bank, credit union ect), the customer would be charged like $50/day and $0.50/mile by the time the car got back... which I always thought was pretty effed up.
A word of advice to anyone car shopping... it's always best to know your credit score before shopping, as well as current interest rates banks are giving out. If possible, it helps to get financing in place with your own bank prior to actually buying the car, as a lot of times, let's say you have a 700 credit score, and you are actually approved for let's say 6.5% interest rate... well, what a lot of dealerships will do is tell you you're approved for 8.5%, when really they're just lying and making a profit off of the interest you're agreeing to pay... for getting you to agree to the extra 2% interest you didn't have to pay, the bank actually pays the dealership extra money, which adds to the total profit of the deal, and of course, goes towards the finance guy's commission.
Also, even with great credit, most finance companies won't go above 120% of the loan value of the car... in other words if you have tier 0/1 credit, let's say 730 credit score, and you're buying a car, find out what the actual book value of the car is before buying it. If the book value of the car is $30,000, even with awesome credit, 120% is pushing it, so if you're paying over book value, or trying to roll in negative equity from your old car, 120% of $30k means that they'll only finance you for a max of $36,000. That's assuming you have tier 0/1 credit... the lower your credit score is, the less the percentage of loan value the bank will be willing to loan you. If you're around national average of 650 or so, it might be pushing it to even get 110% of loan value, you're probably looking closer to 100% to 105%. Whereas, if your credit is fairly low, let's say 500's, some creditors won't even be willing to lend you 100% of the loan value, you may only be able to finance 80-90% of the car's book value, which is why they will require a fairly large down payment from you, in order to get you under the mark the bank will finance you at.
The reason for this is because the lower your credit score, the more of a credit risk you are. If you have a 500 credit score, there's probably a much greater chance that your vehicle may be repossessed, a much greater chance than someone with an 800 credit score. So, the bank takes this into consideration. A car with a book value of let's say $25k, if repossessed, will probably only bring maybe $21k if they have to send it to auction, which is why they wouldn't want to loan you the full amount, as banks are in the business of making money, not losing it because a repo'd car couldn't bring in the loan value at an auction. Then they have to send it to collections, and all that other crap banks hate to have to do ect ect.
So, that's why it helps to know your credit score before going car shopping. So that you know what you can, and cannot buy, as well as what current interest rates you're approved for. You can typically walk into any credit union (if you're a part of one) like Public Service Credit Union (which I've heard great things about) or Bellco (which I would no longer recommend) give them your credit score, and they should be able to tell you what their rates are for the term you're looking for, and what percentage of a book value they would be willing to loan on it. Actually, a lot of dealerships keep the EXACT same information from NUMEROUS finance companies, which are updated monthly, and typically just sitting right behind a manager's desk. If they're fairly open, they should be able to show you all that information... but a lot are shady, and will try and hide info like that from people they think they can make more money off of. Some will even go as far as lying about the actual book value of the car they're selling... but others, will tell you openly the actual finance book value of the car you're trying to buy.
It's a damn shame when something like this happens, as most of the time, it's something that can be easily avoided. Most of the time, a dealer can tell before you ever drive off the lot if they can actually get the deal bought, but some (a lot actually), will let you drive off, thinking they can somehow "structure the deal" to where they can convince some obscure finance company into buying the loan. Obviously, they can't always get deals bought... but most of the time, they could have told you that before you ever drove off the lot, or at least given you a heads up if it might not be financed. Which is why it's good to educate yourself on what you can buy beforehand, so you can save yourself the hassle.
Anyway, sorry to hear about all that Ghost, but maybe it's for the best?!? A turbo'd RX-8 is a hell of a lot more original than a WRX for sure
Sorry that happened, Ghost, but glad you're back in the 8! If I end up leaving Mazda for something else on my list of test-driving fun-stuff in the next few months, I'll miss the Mazda family.
Stealth01
2006 Mazdaspeed 6 GT
SURE Full3 Aeros ID300 SRI, SURE Torq R6 RMM, SURE Shortcut/Countershift, SURE Anchors, Dunlop Winterspot M3s (Winter Shoes), "O" Series Stubby Antenna, Red LED Dome & Door Lights, Whistler Pro-78 RD Hardwired, SURE Dreadnaught, Juggernaught, SURE Flow M6 TP, SURE Charge Tubes, Hawk HPS F/R Pads, Technafit SSBLs, StopTech Rotors, Cobb AP, SURE Ventus in 50-50 Hybrid Mode, [color="Lime"] PERM Tune[/color] (Stratified Auto) Coming soon: Autotech FP Internals, S6 Mounts
2006 Mazdaspeed 6 GT
SURE Full3 Aeros ID300 SRI, SURE Torq R6 RMM, SURE Shortcut/Countershift, SURE Anchors, Dunlop Winterspot M3s (Winter Shoes), "O" Series Stubby Antenna, Red LED Dome & Door Lights, Whistler Pro-78 RD Hardwired, SURE Dreadnaught, Juggernaught, SURE Flow M6 TP, SURE Charge Tubes, Hawk HPS F/R Pads, Technafit SSBLs, StopTech Rotors, Cobb AP, SURE Ventus in 50-50 Hybrid Mode, [color="Lime"] PERM Tune[/color] (Stratified Auto) Coming soon: Autotech FP Internals, S6 Mounts
-
Colombia28
- Posts: 4216
- Joined: Wed Sep 19, 2007 9:14
- Location: Lone Tree
- Contact:
Stealth01
2006 Mazdaspeed 6 GT
SURE Full3 Aeros ID300 SRI, SURE Torq R6 RMM, SURE Shortcut/Countershift, SURE Anchors, Dunlop Winterspot M3s (Winter Shoes), "O" Series Stubby Antenna, Red LED Dome & Door Lights, Whistler Pro-78 RD Hardwired, SURE Dreadnaught, Juggernaught, SURE Flow M6 TP, SURE Charge Tubes, Hawk HPS F/R Pads, Technafit SSBLs, StopTech Rotors, Cobb AP, SURE Ventus in 50-50 Hybrid Mode, [color="Lime"] PERM Tune[/color] (Stratified Auto) Coming soon: Autotech FP Internals, S6 Mounts
2006 Mazdaspeed 6 GT
SURE Full3 Aeros ID300 SRI, SURE Torq R6 RMM, SURE Shortcut/Countershift, SURE Anchors, Dunlop Winterspot M3s (Winter Shoes), "O" Series Stubby Antenna, Red LED Dome & Door Lights, Whistler Pro-78 RD Hardwired, SURE Dreadnaught, Juggernaught, SURE Flow M6 TP, SURE Charge Tubes, Hawk HPS F/R Pads, Technafit SSBLs, StopTech Rotors, Cobb AP, SURE Ventus in 50-50 Hybrid Mode, [color="Lime"] PERM Tune[/color] (Stratified Auto) Coming soon: Autotech FP Internals, S6 Mounts
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (arctic_blue83 @ Feb 13 2008, 05:09 PM) [url=index.php?act=findpost&pid=25368]<{POST_SNAPBACK}>[/url]</div>
The finance guy at McD Mazda tried all kinds of crap with me. I just told him I was pre-approved through my bank, and he still wanted me to go with him and switch later. I called my bank from his office to work out the deal before handing the phone to him. What a prick.
Sorry to hear about the hassle
How long did you end up having the Subie? I only ask because I know a lot of dealership's have really shitty policies, where they get you to (unknowingly) sign paperwork agreeing to pay XX amount of fees if the car does not get financed. I know back when I worked at Burt Mazda (good Lord, I don't miss the car business), it was ridiculous, if a customer drove off with the car without knowing the loan was approved (which was common), if their finance guys couldn't get the deal bought by a finance company (bank, credit union ect), the customer would be charged like $50/day and $0.50/mile by the time the car got back... which I always thought was pretty effed up.
A word of advice to anyone car shopping...[/b]
The finance guy at McD Mazda tried all kinds of crap with me. I just told him I was pre-approved through my bank, and he still wanted me to go with him and switch later. I called my bank from his office to work out the deal before handing the phone to him. What a prick.
AIM WO4
[color=#339966][font=Microsoft Sans Serif][color=gray]CMZƆ[/color][/color][/font]
[size=75]2012 Sinful Sallow, Evo X GSR[/SIZE]
[color=#339966][font=Microsoft Sans Serif][color=gray]CMZƆ[/color][/color][/font]
[size=75]2012 Sinful Sallow, Evo X GSR[/SIZE]
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (AIM WO4 @ Feb 13 2008, 09:08 PM) [url=index.php?act=findpost&pid=25399]<{POST_SNAPBACK}>[/url]</div>
that bad eh? I financed through mazda initially because it took another 1k off the sales price, after three months I refi'd with my normal bank,,,
The finance guy at McD Mazda tried all kinds of crap with me. I just told him I was pre-approved through my bank, and he still wanted me to go with him and switch later. I called my bank from his office to work out the deal before handing the phone to him. What a prick.[/b]
that bad eh? I financed through mazda initially because it took another 1k off the sales price, after three months I refi'd with my normal bank,,,
"20<cut off="">"</cut>
-
Colombia28
- Posts: 4216
- Joined: Wed Sep 19, 2007 9:14
- Location: Lone Tree
- Contact:
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (Stealth01 @ Feb 13 2008, 08:54 PM) [url=index.php?act=findpost&pid=25395]<{POST_SNAPBACK}>[/url]</div>
Hey ghost did you buy it used or new? And anyone know whether or not they will sell it used?
Hey ghost did you buy it used or new? And anyone know whether or not they will sell it used?
2008 Cosmic Blue Speed3 - NEW
2006 Copper Red Mica 3 hatch - SOLD
ΜΟΛΩΝ ΛΑΒΕ
They put that up right after I dropped it off. Thanks for the advice Brandon and no they did not me chrage the fee but they also didn't have me sign paperwork agreeing to that so my commander, who is a JAG lawyer, agreed to help me fight it if they tried to charge me. Good to have connections. As far as the kit goes I've chosen the Greddy due to budget. For the long run the only thing on any kit I would keep would be the new manifolds so it's not too big of a deal. My kit will be on it's way tomorrow but right now my biggest issue is finding a tuner. Revolutions said no for their understandable and respectable reasons, UPP said they would but they won't have their dyno installed until the end of March (FYI CK said they'd dyno the first 2 stock make and model of any car for free), and I don't know any other respectable shops here in CS. Also I'm busy every weekend until the last weekend of March unless I skip a ) SCCA or b ) Dyno day. If anyone can tune E-Manage I would rather have a street tune than a dyno tune and I'd be willing to pay for someone to ride around with me while I do some pulls and then tune it. All I need is someone with the knowledge and who's willing to teach me. Any suggestions?
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
Mods:
Veilside D1-GT Body kit, Axailflow Short Shifter, Innovate LC-1 Wideband, Proshift Gauges, Greddy Turbo Kit w/ Cobb AccessPORT, TurboXS exhaust w/ race pipe, CarPC, Synapse BOV, AEM Intake
Mods:
Veilside D1-GT Body kit, Axailflow Short Shifter, Innovate LC-1 Wideband, Proshift Gauges, Greddy Turbo Kit w/ Cobb AccessPORT, TurboXS exhaust w/ race pipe, CarPC, Synapse BOV, AEM Intake
-
Chris Swearingen
- Member
- Posts: 87
- Joined: Tue Oct 02, 2007 9:14
- Contact:
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (RX 8 Ghost @ Feb 13 2008, 09:27 PM) [url=index.php?act=findpost&pid=25424]<{POST_SNAPBACK}>[/url]</div>
Which eManage? Ultimate or Blue? I run the Ultimate and can give you some tips if you like. If you are going to try to do any street tuning, be sure to get a wide band 02 sensor and install it with the kit. When I put my Ultimate in, I spent the xtra bucks and ordered a plug and play harness from boomslang fabrication. It was a lot easier than trying to splice all the wire in myself.
They put that up right after I dropped it off. Thanks for the advice Brandon and no they did not me chrage the fee but they also didn't have me sign paperwork agreeing to that so my commander, who is a JAG lawyer, agreed to help me fight it if they tried to charge me. Good to have connections. As far as the kit goes I've chosen the Greddy due to budget. For the long run the only thing on any kit I would keep would be the new manifolds so it's not too big of a deal. My kit will be on it's way tomorrow but right now my biggest issue is finding a tuner. Revolutions said no for their understandable and respectable reasons, UPP said they would but they won't have their dyno installed until the end of March (FYI CK said they'd dyno the first 2 stock make and model of any car for free), and I don't know any other respectable shops here in CS. Also I'm busy every weekend until the last weekend of March unless I skip a ) SCCA or b ) Dyno day. If anyone can tune E-Manage I would rather have a street tune than a dyno tune and I'd be willing to pay for someone to ride around with me while I do some pulls and then tune it. All I need is someone with the knowledge and who's willing to teach me. Any suggestions?[/b]
Which eManage? Ultimate or Blue? I run the Ultimate and can give you some tips if you like. If you are going to try to do any street tuning, be sure to get a wide band 02 sensor and install it with the kit. When I put my Ultimate in, I spent the xtra bucks and ordered a plug and play harness from boomslang fabrication. It was a lot easier than trying to splice all the wire in myself.
--Chris
It's the E-manage ultimate and I'll definitely get a Wideband and check out what Boomslang has. Thanks for the advice and we can talk more once the kit install is in progress. You should definitely try and stop by for that.
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
Mods:
Veilside D1-GT Body kit, Axailflow Short Shifter, Innovate LC-1 Wideband, Proshift Gauges, Greddy Turbo Kit w/ Cobb AccessPORT, TurboXS exhaust w/ race pipe, CarPC, Synapse BOV, AEM Intake
Mods:
Veilside D1-GT Body kit, Axailflow Short Shifter, Innovate LC-1 Wideband, Proshift Gauges, Greddy Turbo Kit w/ Cobb AccessPORT, TurboXS exhaust w/ race pipe, CarPC, Synapse BOV, AEM Intake
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 95 guests