Like New 260Z

Postby **RX-7 Chris** » Mon Oct 22, 2012 9:14

I just saw this. Cool project

erod550 · Postby **erod550** » Mon Oct 22, 2012 9:14

I don't think they do the crushing anymore. From the rules updated last Novermber:

1.6: Your Car May Be Destroyed at Any Time: This is racing. Accidents and other unfortunate boo-boos happen. We don't crush stuff anymore, but that was never the point; the point was, you should never bring a car to the track if you aren't ready to lose it there.

http://www.24hoursoflemons.com/pricesandrules.aspx

Website · Postby **Shadowden** » Tue Oct 23, 2012 9:14

What has happened this week with your new ride?

ecam8000 · Postby **ecam8000** » Wed Oct 24, 2012 9:14

Tried to start it Monday night with my stock (cracked diaphagm) fuel pump. It started to send fuel to the carbs and then let go (beeg leak).

Last night I took my rims/flats along with my donated tires to the new Les Schwab out on C470 and Bowles (just to give the new store a try). Was there for two hours, and they managed to mount all four directional tires (tread pattern and arrow on side wall) going the same direction. In fairness I didn't bring the car in, and the tech might have thought all wheels were mounted on only one side of the car...
Amanda will take two of the tire/wheels back and have those reversed.

I was busy digging in my loft for an electric fuel pump from years ago. The 240/260's had a manual pump on the engine and an aux electric near the tank (that only operates when the engine is over 400 rpm). Tonight I'll check out the condition on that pump and replace it (if needed) with the used one I found in my stash and wire it to a fused switch. The car will run with carb cleaner. I'd like to get some fuel in the carbs and start adjusting.

My younger daughter Megan (13) did the interior strip on the car (seats and all). The next work will be cleaning off the glued down insulation and poping the tar pads from the floor (dry ice). Still need to pull the dash and get rid of unneccesaries. The dash will go back in (I think) but probably not until the cage is built.

Website · Postby **Shadowden** » Wed Oct 24, 2012 9:14

ecam8000 wrote:Tried to start it Monday night with my stock (cracked diaphagm) fuel pump. It started to send fuel to the carbs and then let go (beeg leak).

Last night I took my rims/flats along with my donated tires to the new Les Schwab out on C470 and Bowles (just to give the new store a try). Was there for two hours, and they managed to mount all four directional tires (tread pattern and arrow on side wall) going the same direction. In fairness I didn't bring the car in, and the tech might have thought all wheels were mounted on only one side of the car...
Amanda will take two of the tire/wheels back and have those reversed.

I was busy digging in my loft for an electric fuel pump from years ago. The 240/260's had a manual pump on the engine and an aux electric near the tank (that only operates when the engine is over 400 rpm). Tonight I'll check out the condition on that pump and replace it (if needed) with the used one I found in my stash and wire it to a fused switch. The car will run with carb cleaner. I'd like to get some fuel in the carbs and start adjusting.

My younger daughter Megan (13) did the interior strip on the car (seats and all). The next work will be cleaning off the glued down insulation and poping the tar pads from the floor (dry ice). Still need to pull the dash and get rid of unneccesaries. The dash will go back in (I think) but probably not until the cage is built.

That is a huge amount of progress. Nice to see the young ladies in there getting stuff done.

If you sell parts off the car, any money from that does not count against your total, right?

400 rpm...wow. I'm certainly curious about the dual pumps. Are they in line (series)? So the manual pump at the engine (belt driven?) draws fuel through the electric pump until a solenoid or relay is activated and then the electric pump starts pulling additional fuel into the line? Seems strange to me (but you know my level of vehicle knowledge). Wouldn't a single pump be more efficient and provide less chance for issues?

ecam8000 · Postby **ecam8000** » Wed Oct 24, 2012 9:14

The mechanical pump is driven by the cam, and mounted to the head (or block in engines with the cam the block - OHV). Most cars in this era used a pump like this. Carbs usually only use a max of 5-6 PSI. I have heard that the 240/260z's suffered from vapor lock (fuel boil in fuel lines) so the electric aux pump was a way to limit that. Later carb systems used a regulator and return system (like FI does) to keep the fuel moving and minimize the problem with vapor lock. If I can get the stock electric pump to function, and it supplies enough fuel, I'll use that and bypass the mechanical pump. Since this car should be moving most of the time the engine is running, I should be able to limit problems with heat soak to fuel lines by routing and air flow. Most of the issues in the old days with vapor lock tended to be on hills stuck in traffic.

In theory, I can sell parts off the car to make money for the repair budget. On the flip side, there aren't a bunch of pristine take offs from this near 40 year old car. If you are in the market for some "like new" A/C and smog pump items, let me know - have I got a deal for you! I am also part owner in a bridge in NY, I can make it a package deal.

I'm sure the 400 RPM was a way to activate the pump only when the engine was running and not just when the key was turned on.

Postby **RX-7 Chris** » Wed Oct 24, 2012 9:14

the later carb system sounds similar to the first gen rx-7. external electric pump with a 5/16 return

I have an Accel super stock coil lying around you can have if it might be something you could use. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ACC-8140/

ecam8000 · Postby **ecam8000** » Wed Oct 24, 2012 9:14

Might take you up on that, right now it doesn't look like I need it the stock coil is working and zapping away. Once the car is in tune I may find that I need a bigger coil. I will advance the timing as much as the car can use. The pressures should increase, but not to the point that the stock coil couldn't handle (I think). If that is the big squarish yellow and tan coil, I used to use them a bunch about 30 years ago!

Website · Postby **Shadowden** » Thu Oct 25, 2012 9:14

Did you test your fuel pumps?

With the timing advance, does it help to change spark plugs and will you start running higher octane fuel? With this car, does it need lead additive?

Sorry, seems like a lot of questions, but curious about what it will take to have this thing running like a champ in the chumps.

ecam8000 · Postby **ecam8000** » Thu Oct 25, 2012 9:14

Pulled the fuel pump assm last night and rigged up a couple hoses. After a pump prime, the stock pump did just fine with no leaks. I used clean fuel in a coffee can and ran it for a few minutes recycling. The fuel volume picked up after a few seconds and the clean fuel turned a "tea" color. I installed the pump back under the car and ran fresh rubber fuel lines. Next item was tracing the wire loom to cull out the fuel pump wire under the dash. Pulled the HVAC from under the dash and make some room. By that time game one had reached the 7th inning and I went inside. At my age, you have to pace yourself. Got a board meeting tonight in the Springs. So Friday I hope to build a panel for the fuel pump and starter switch. Right now we have to jump the starter crank it. I have heard the 260z won't crank unless the seat belt is fastened!?! Some day I'll get into all the wiring and see what is extra (and save some weight). Amanda got two of the tires rotated on the rim so the directional tires are all correct now.

ecam8000 · Postby **ecam8000** » Thu Oct 25, 2012 9:14

Shadowden wrote:
With the timing advance, does it help to change spark plugs and will you start running higher octane fuel? With this car, does it need lead additive?

The car is supposed to have around 9:1 compression. Premium was probably required back then. Truth is this thing will most likely be fine on regular. Lead was mostly a cushion for the exhaust valve and seat. If unleaded is run, there could be some accelerated wear on those parts. This engine has about 260K miles, and I need it to last for about 1200 miles in a two day race. A couple cans of additive when refueling is not a big deal. Most of the wear happens when the engine is working hard, not cruising.

Changing spark plugs....If I have the room in the budget to install $9.00 worth of spark plugs, I will. Dynos, seat of the pants, TV ads and internet folk lore, will tell you of the amazing power and MPG gains with the right set of spark plugs. My feeling is if the plug sparks (when it should) and tune is right, $.99-$9.99/plugs are not going to make a big change. Remember Split Fires "garanteed to make you more power or your money back"? Are they still around? I tried a set, and got my money back. Supercharging, high compression, nitrous oxide, 100K mile expectations and a few other conditions do factor into spark plug selection. But for most of us the $.99 to $3.99 spark plug is all we'll need.

Website · Postby **Shadowden** » Thu Oct 25, 2012 9:14

hehehe...I was just thinking fresh plugs due to the vintage

ecam8000 · Postby **ecam8000** » Thu Oct 25, 2012 9:14

The point is good. I know the stock fuel pump works. Will it supply enough fuel? I have $4.00 in an oil filter, grabbed 5 quarts of old school oil from my shelf (nothing uses 10w30 anymore, it's all 5wXX). I used a couple pipe plugs to desmog the intake manifold. It has some new fuel lines (but that is allowed under safety). So right now my budget has spent $400 on the car and under $10 dollars for filter and pipe plugs. If the car gets road worthy with these cheap parts, I will replace the plugs, cap, rotor and wires. I'm not sure yet if I'll have to go through the carbs, or build my own intake manifold and add a junkyard 2 or 4 BBL carb. So that is why I haven't bought parts yet. I do have a $25 regulator on the fuel line right now, but it is only for testing at the moment. The car came with two of them (one for each carb) but I don't know if the old ones work yet. I'll get some work in Friday night, and then a bit Sunday afternoon. Next weekend is Street Survival up in Eagle, weekend after that is the SCCA banquet and Winter Series number 1.
The Chair for CDR needs all the help he can get, so I'm helping him.

Brigdh · Postby **Brigdh** » Thu Oct 25, 2012 9:14

ecam8000 wrote:The Chair for CDR needs all the help he can get, so I'm helping him.

Is the Chair developing a split personality disorder, because then he might be getting all the help he needs

Website · Postby **Shadowden** » Thu Oct 25, 2012 9:14

ecam8000 wrote:The point is good. I know the stock fuel pump works. Will it supply enough fuel? I have $4.00 in an oil filter, grabbed 5 quarts of old school oil from my shelf (nothing uses 10w30 anymore, it's all 5wXX). I used a couple pipe plugs to desmog the intake manifold. It has some new fuel lines (but that is allowed under safety). So right now my budget has spent $400 on the car and under $10 dollars for filter and pipe plugs. If the car gets road worthy with these cheap parts, I will replace the plugs, cap, rotor and wires. I'm not sure yet if I'll have to go through the carbs, or build my own intake manifold and add a junkyard 2 or 4 BBL carb. So that is why I haven't bought parts yet. I do have a $25 regulator on the fuel line right now, but it is only for testing at the moment. The car came with two of them (one for each carb) but I don't know if the old ones work yet. I'll get some work in Friday night, and then a bit Sunday afternoon. Next weekend is Street Survival up in Eagle, weekend after that is the SCCA banquet and Winter Series number 1.
The Chair for CDR needs all the help he can get, so I'm helping him.

You're a busy guy. I sent a PM suggesting next thursday as a day to start fabbing that bar, but we can certainly push that out. I am considering tracing out my template on the plate steel and cutting it out. Will a jigsaw with metal blade be sufficient (I think it is just under 1/8" plate). My other concern with pre cutting it before you see it is not having square lines to make measurements from to center the holes that need drilled/cut.

Let me know.

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