Craigslist Saab 900 SE

chromal · Postby **chromal** » Mon Nov 28, 2011 9:14

Removed the timing chain tensioner and measured its extension. (Then, reinstalled to proper torque and removed in sequence two more times to be sure--) The general rule with these from what I've read is that if the tensioner gap (space between the tensioner body and the inside of its head) extends more than 11mm, then the chain has stretched enough to require replacement.

This test doesn't really tell me anything about the chain sprockets or guides, but at least it appears the timing chain has some life left in it; I measured the gap as almost exactly 10mm.

Website · Postby **Shadowden** » Mon Nov 28, 2011 9:14

how much do you have to take apart to get the tensioner out? Seems like if you are that far in, you may as well replace the chain. But I don't know how much more involved that would be.

Postby **RX-7 Chris** » Mon Nov 28, 2011 9:14

that was my thought as well. At this point, why not just replace the chain?

chromal · Postby **chromal** » Mon Nov 28, 2011 9:14

The tensioner can be removed directly from the engine without any disassembly whatsoever. Just need a 12mm and 27mm socket and a torque wrench, it's just there on the front intake side of the block. I want to replace the timing chain, and probably also the chain guides and other wear items, but I'm not sure this job can be done without removing the engine from the car. There's a way to use a timing chain with a master link without pulling the engine, but I'd rather put an endless chain in there... This should be able to wait until I have what I need to do the job (e.g.: engine hoist, garage..)

On the damaged fender, having small effect applying small sledgehammers, used a short block of 2x4 lumber and a Stanley FooBar to pry it out against the wheel/tire. Hopefully the fender is now out of the suspension range of the tire itself. Now the damanged wheel well flange is somewhat convex instead of concave, but will need a second repaint to keep the rust away while better restoration is thought out.

Repaired a cabin air sensor whose fan was buzzing by removing from dashboard center panel and directly applying grease to fan. Re-soldered thermistor. 'auto' climate control works well again, not sure if AC presently works...

Up to about 22-24mpg now, long term fuel trim seems to be sitting around +40. Unsure of exact reason for seemingly rich fuel trim.

In the meantime, more parts on order: replacement oil cap, idler pulley, tensioner pulley, center pulley, valve cover gasket, serpentine belt, and a few odds and ends are on order. I stopped out at Home Depot and bought a 0.5" square ended hollow steel bar that can take the tension off the accessory belt in a socket for same on the tensioner arm.

chromal · Postby **chromal** » Tue Nov 29, 2011 9:14

More tweaks under the hood. I suppose that as I fix vacuum leaks, the manifold pressure increases and flushes out the next weakest point in the system! Last night, I found leak in IAC valve hose near clamp. Cut and reseated that hose this morning. Given the state of most of the vacuum lines, I'm eager to check the rest of them out very soon...

Long Term Fuel Trims down to 28-30 now, highway MPGs up to the upper 20s now. Still have a mysterious electrical gremlin that causes a dash general warning and battery indicator. Battery appears to maintain full charge, however..

Postby **RX-7 Chris** » Tue Nov 29, 2011 9:14

I would try cleaning the battery and alternator contacts.

chromal · Postby **chromal** » Tue Nov 29, 2011 9:14

Cleaned battery contacts and ground points with battery replacement last weekend, but the alternator contacts are on the very short list to check up on soon. (Haven't done yet because it's slightly less convenient to get at them!)

chromal · Postby **chromal** » Wed Nov 30, 2011 9:14

Drove her to work and back yesterday-- everything was mostly behaved, however the same IAC hose line that gave me trouble the night before ripped again while driving home. Like a lot of rubber lines under the hood, this one is a bit rotten. I'm probably going to wind up replacing most of the vacuum and coolant lines before I'm left on the side of the road...

New front and rear wiper blades, replaced missing rear fog light bulb, cleaned battery/alternator pos junction and 60A fuse spades with deoxit. There are some other harness and terminals near the alternator under the intake manifold, but the only obvious way to get at them without pulling off the intake assembly is from below the car, so I'll try that next as the intermittent charge system warning was still recurring after this maintenance.

Average MPGs pretty solid now, around 27mpg now, up from 18mpg when I bought it. LTFTs hanging around 30.

Postby **RX-7 Chris** » Wed Nov 30, 2011 9:14

it's always best to just replace the hoses.

Carry around some electrical tape with you for now. It works great for emergency hose fixes.

chromal · Postby **chromal** » Wed Nov 30, 2011 9:14

The sooner the better. The cooling and IAC/AIC hoses are now on order. Everything else should be more or less generic vacuum line. I like the tape suggestion, maybe I'll throw some gorilla tape in the back for this purpose (it's awesome stuff, like duct tape on steroids).

Gah, more snow tonight. I'll try to get under the car after work to get at the alternator and connections for same.

Postby **RX-7 Chris** » Wed Nov 30, 2011 9:14

chromal wrote:The sooner the better. The cooling and IAC/AIC hoses are now on order. Everything else should be more or less generic vacuum line. I like the tape suggestion, maybe I'll throw some gorilla tape in the back for this purpose (it's awesome stuff, like duct tape on steroids).

Gah, more snow tonight. I'll try to get under the car after work to get at the alternator and connections for same.

gorilla tape will not work neither will duct tape. Electrical tape is the only one that really works because of the material it is made of.

chromal · Postby **chromal** » Wed Nov 30, 2011 9:14

That kind of makes sense, given electrical tape is stretchable vinyl usually. OK.

chromal · Postby **chromal** » Thu Dec 01, 2011 9:14

In a rush to beat the snow last night, I checked out the alternator by reaching up from below via exhaust space and subframe. With good access to a number of pos lines, I disconnected the battery and cleaned the alternator B+ D+ terminal wires. Also hit the starter contacts while down there, and two or three more grounding points I hadn't gotten at before.

I want to pull front HO2S (again), remove it from the car, and check out its -wiring- from sensor to harness... It seems to alternate between normal voltage output readings and extremely low outputs, like 0.015v, rapidly, via OBD2 gauge. I suspect the brushes on the voltage regulator may be worn, that's one cause that matches the symptoms.

There's not much else I can do right now, aside from look for replacement voltage regulator parts. Probably going to just buy a OEM pulled alternator somewhere and clean it up before installing, or at least the voltage regulator from same. Probably won't do much until a warmer day.

chromal · Postby **chromal** » Tue Dec 06, 2011 9:14

Picked up an inexpensive Saab B204 longblock engine with about 125K, 'runs,' with piston knock. The Civic came through as awesome engine hauler, again:

With a cast-iron block, it'll be simplest to disassemble it down to the short block and move it piecemeal. The engine isn't seized and did run, but had a knock. Maybe I'll have a better idea of the damage when I remove the cylinder head and oil pan. At best, I'm expecting galling on the crankshaft from a spun bearing... anyway, this long block also included a water pump, intake manifold and throttle body, and a few other odds and ends.

Tonight, I pulled off the exhaust manifold and turbocharger:

I look forward to comparing this with the turbo in the car now. I'd like to have it rebuilt.

The plan with the Saab at the moment is: replace some idler/tensioner pulleys, remove intake, replace voltage regulator on alternator or replace alternator, new serpentine belt. I'd like also to inspect and possibly swap the turbo, if it looks worse than the one off the 2nd engine, though we'll see...

Postby **RX-7 Chris** » Wed Dec 07, 2011 9:14

have you been checking voltage with a meter or are you looking at a gauge in the car? If you have just been looking at a gauge, the problem may just be that gauge.

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