Craigslist Saab 900 SE

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chromal
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Postby chromal » Fri Jan 06, 2012 9:14

I wound up buying all but the turbocharger, its compressor blades had damaged leading edges.

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I removed the cover of the ignition cassette to examine it, but it's effectively a bowl on the casting with electronics sealed within hard resin. I may test it tomorrow. The ECU is from a 1996 SAAB 900SE turbo w/AT. It is one revision earlier than the stock one in my car, and is clocked at 16MHz instead of 20MHz. It does, however, support OBD-II identically from what I can see. I'll know for sure when I open it up.


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I took a drive with it in the car, it was pretty apparently set up differently in terms of how it felt while accelerating, quite jerky on the trottle in 1st and 2nd if the pedal isn't approached lightly when coasting. I think I read the auto has high-speed injector cutoff immediately on a wider RPM band.

After a lengthy test drive, the mixture settled out at the same ballpark LTFT of +30, so I'm fairly sure I have two good ECUs and a mixture/sensor problem elsewhere. One thought is the E10 91-octane may not be ideal for the stock tune? I may try different gas, maybe shell high octane just to see if anything changes. Longer term, I understand there's a 'high elevation' saab oem b204L
trionic 5.5 ECU sold in non-domestic markets, would be curious to compare that tune bin with my stock one.

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chromal
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Postby chromal » Sun Jan 08, 2012 9:14

I pulled apart the ebay ECU after testing it in the car. I had to drill out one small torx bolt due to corrosion, but it otherwise wasn't difficult to disassemble.

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The CPU used is a Motorolla The ECU's PCB has the 8-pin DIP through-hole, and so this is a pretty trivial soldering effort. Often times, the older flash memory ICs that contain the ECU firmware fail on rewrite, a more difficult soldering job.

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With a 8-pin debug header now soldered in place, I'm one USB-BDM interface away from reflashing this ECU. Some fit inside the ECU case with its mainboard and can even add an exterior USB port.

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There are some compatible interfaces on ebay, though I'm looking for something a little nicer and well known over at ecuproject.

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chromal
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Postby chromal » Sun Jan 15, 2012 9:14

Efforts continue. Removed radiator fan to make room in front of block in order to drill broken exhaust manifold studs. The outside lower studs were both sheared, meaning the exhaust manifold was only being held on the exhaust ports for cyls 1 and 4 with a single bolt. This may be the source of oxygen entering the exhaust in front of the primary HO2S. As of this writing, neither broken stud has been successfully removed with a screw extractor, but the effort shall continue. Assuming the broken studs can be removed, I'll also be replacing the turbo and exhaust manifold gaskets.

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This weekend, I also began the assembly of a through-hole USB-BDM interface. No etched PCB, I instead am using prototype board. I believe everything is ready. Once my FTDI UM245R USB-to-parrallel module arrives, I should be able to drop it in and start running.

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RX-7 Chris
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Postby RX-7 Chris » Mon Jan 16, 2012 9:14

I have no idea that you are doing with all the computer stuff, haha.

You could drill and retap the studs.
1984 RX-7 GSL-SE [size=84]My restomod project[/SIZE]


1964 Ford Galaxie 500XL flat black w/ white interior, 2 dr fastback, 390 thunderbird, C6 auto, 2500 rpm high stall converter, shift kit, AC, Holley 750 cfm

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chromal
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Postby chromal » Mon Jan 16, 2012 9:14

The computer stuff will allow me to reflash the ECU from windows via a USB device, as well as download adaptation data via SRAM. More info (see Trionic5 suite): http://trionic.mobixs.eu/

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More or less, I'm on the drill studs stage. I had to pull out the battery, remove the radiator fan and cowl, and dismount the power steer fluid pump to get access to all of the exhaust manifold bolts and studs. I've removed all the intact studs and the exhaust manifold itself, leaving the two broken (of seven total) exhaust studs. It's apparent from the soot on the mating surface of the exhaust manifold that there was definitely a leak on cyl 1 and maybe a bit on cyl 4. Hopefully at the end of all this, with new exhaust studs and gaskets, the LTFTs and mixture will return to something more normal. But in the meantime, I've got to remove two broken exhaust studs..

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About ten broken carbide drill bits, two pretty badly worn screw extractors, and a broken screw extractor handle/tool, I do have about 2/3rds of one stud out. I started the first one with the exhaust manifold on, hoping it would be easy/quick, but it's been anything but. A fair amount of the threaded hole the first stud was stuck in has been removed with drilling as well, before I could see what I was doing (after removing said manifold).

Anyway, it's a bit of a bummer, between dodging snow squalls to work on the car in the driveway, trashing tools, and beating on the cylinder head, and I feel no closer to done. But I'll get it done, just don't know how many more hours of dirty hands, bloody knuckles, and broken tools it'll take to get there. :) Since it pretty much is looking like a re-thread or helicoil or something, my task going forward should be simplified. Maybe what I should have done from the get-go rather than trying to extract the stud remnants... 1/4 drill bit, straight down. Fortunately, these studs only screw in about 3/4-1" deep.

In the meantime, fixed some corrosion on the battery tray and addressed disintegrating radiator fan wiring insulation.

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chromal
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Postby chromal » Thu Jan 19, 2012 9:14

Yesterday, I dived back into the exhaust stud problem, and I am pretty sure I made good progress. I wanted to finish putting the car back together last night, but by 9pm, the wind and cold put a stop to my driveway work. Should finish it this afternoon.

Anyway, long story short, I gave up on using the screw extractors and instead decided to try using helicoils to solve my sheared stud woes. I'm using Scan-Tech brand stainless steel replacement exhaust studs. You can see the broken studs next to a new example circled in red:

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It was pretty tight quarters, even with the radiator fan+cowl and power-steering pump set aside, but I was eventually able to drill out the M8-1.25 threaded studs using a 21/64ths carbide drill bit. After that I ran the thread tool provided with the helicoils:

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The end result? The helicoil studs appear to be holding, and the other replacement studs went in uneventfully. I did wind up confusing the positioning of the long/short studs (see yellow arrows in photo below), which I later corrected (long studs on outside points, short studs on center ports)...

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New exhaust manifold gasket, new manifold->turbo gasket. While I had things apart, I finally replaced the center pulley on the serpentine belt with the new one I bought earlier. All that remains now is to reconnect the intercooler hoses, turbo oil return line, air intake filter assembly, power steering pump, and battery, and I should hopefully know after a test drive if the mixture problem is solved.

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chromal
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Postby chromal » Sun Jan 22, 2012 9:14

Forum is broken, won't let me post the text of the latest update. No clue why not, but you may instead read today's update here:

http://www.saabcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?p=2131299#post2131299

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chromal
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Postby chromal » Sun Feb 12, 2012 9:14

Using the USB CombiAdapter and BDM Tool v2.11, it's possible to interact with the ECU via its microcontroller console/debug interface. I've two T5.5 ECUs in addition to the stock one in the car. These two are a 16Mhz from a '96 B204L and a 20Mhz from a '99 B204R. Both have been reflashed, if only to verify it can be done (some old flash chips have trouble).

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The ECU needs a good power source while being reflashed. I'm using something scavenged from an old HP scanner, or perhaps a laptop. While the spec is +15VDC, anecdotal evidence on the forums supports that a regulated +18VDC like this is safe and sometimes required, anyway.

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Quick and dirty power distribution. :)

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The SRAM was unlocked on each ECU's firmware, which should help give me ECU adaptation data download options later on. The B204R ECU was otherwise left stock. The B204L 16MHz engine was tuned via the t5suite to stage1 using the software wizard.

B204L stock (as estimated by t5suites):
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B204L t5suite 2.0.0 wizard stage1 (as estimated by t5suites):
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So, in total, I have:
  1. '96 stock B204L ECU
  2. '99 9-3 B204R stock ECU
  3. '95 stage1 B204L ECU.

I'm eager to start data logging the new ECUs...

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Huzer
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Postby Huzer » Mon Feb 13, 2012 9:14

The more I read this thread, the more confused I get. Good work! I remember to "modify" my 900 Turbo ECU, I simply swapped a resistor out somewhere...

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chromal
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Postby chromal » Mon Feb 13, 2012 9:14

What did that do? The resistor, I mean?

There's very little in the ECU I can comfortably tweak, omitted from these posts are pages of maps and other settings I could mess with. :) I did just order a PLX Devices DM-6 Gen2 / SM-AFR Gen2 wideband sensor kit. If I get a thermocouple, I'll have everything I need for AFR/EGT monitoring. I don't expect I'll take it past its current stage1 any time soon, but it's still a hoot to drive.

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chromal
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Postby chromal » Sat Mar 31, 2012 9:14

It's been over a month since my last update; for the most part, I've just been driving the SAAB around town and to and from work. I've futzed a bit with a small crack in the engine coolant expansion tank rather than throw the spare tank in, mostly out of laziness, as it drips only a few drops of coolant a trip. The vehicle continues to not burn oil or coolant, and everything more or less works properly.

I have had a few setbacks; I accidentally shorted something I shouldn't have and blew a fuse to one of two independent circuits that power the SRS control module. If it sees one of its two power sources go low or dark while the car is running, it will post a code, which expresses itself as the central warning and a SRS light on the dash. Unfortunately for me, prior to the '99 SAAB 9-3, the SRS system will not automatically reset a SRS code, even in the absence of the symptoms that caused it. For that, you need a GM Tech2 with SAAB software, and this is hideously expensive to acquire, even today. Alternately, you can pay a dealer to reset the code, but screw that. The only other option is to replace the SRS control module. I'm just going to live with the warning light, at least until a better option comes up. Annoying.

While under boost of 12-15 PSI, the silicone hose running from the intake side of the throttle body has pushed itself off the MAP sensor, causing all sorts of ECU confusion, knock/fuel cut, and misfire codes. I've replaced the hose with another that fits more snugly, hasn't happened since.

After a few warm days, I got motivated to recharge the AC system with ~22oz of r134a, hoping it had simply run low due to age. The auto-climate-control worked brilliantly that afternoon. The next day, the AC didn't work at all, and I checked the pressure-- the refrigerant had all escaped! I bought some more, this time laced with a UV-activated dye.

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By the following evening, it had again lost all pressure, but using a borrowed UV flashlight, I quickly located the leak in the compressor to condenser hose, where it transitioned from soft line to hard line. The UV dye glowed fluorescent yellow. $78 later, I had a new OE fit replacement hose. Installing it, I couldn't seem to make the system hold a vacuum, but, I tried tightening both ends' bolts. I sheared one, but have since replaced it, and (knock on wood) as of this evening it seems to be a sealed system once again. I'll check tomorrow, if it is still holding the -18" Hg vacuum I gave it today, I should be good to go. The final piece of the puzzle will be a new receiver-drier, which should arrive in the mail on Monday. Then, another $30 in R134a refrigerant and maybe some ester oil to replace that which presumably was lost to leakage.

Today, I was driving out (to get the replacement bolt I mentioned) when I realized I could not shift into 5th all of a sudden. It became quickly apparent that the R gear was also no longer hittable on the stick shift. Careful not to put the car in a situation where reverse was needed, I completed the errand and returned home using 1st-4th gears. Putting it up on ramps, I quickly discovered the likely cause for my shifting woes:

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That's the transmission mount, on the left/driver side of the engine/transmission assembly. To get this photo, I put that corner up on a stand, and then using a floor jack, I raised the transmission itself. Whee, though at least I'm seeing replacements for only $50.

Finally, I've ordered some new tires to put on the SAAB. Discount Tires Direct's ebay store had a special promotion: free shipping and a $100 rebate on four tires. I ordered a set of four Hankook Ventus V4 205/50R16s, $377 shipped. Should be $277 after rebate.

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chromal
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Postby chromal » Sat Apr 07, 2012 9:14

Well, the replacement transmission mount arrived and I was able to get the old one off with a little PB blaster and not much effort; I didn't even need to take off the adjacent left front wheel.

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As you can see the old one (left) wasn't worth much. It certainly explains why the shift lever was jumping around on heavy acceleration! I bolted the new one in, reusing the rubber spacer that sits between the mount and the vertical bracket that links the tranny housing to the mount. I re-aligned the shifter by using a locking pin to hold the transmission in 4th and the lever in the 4th gear position, and resetting the shifter rod to the linkage. No biscuit, the shift lever still couldn't gears 1, 2, 5, or R properly and had excessive side-to-side play.

When I pulled the linkage, it quickly became evident why:

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Along the left side of the pictured linkage, you can see a bar, which can slide in and out, and pivot clockwise or counterclockwise on a bushing. Looking closer at the bushing:

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Shattered. It just sloshed around the circular hardmount that it sat inside. The transmission mount going out likely led to this bushing's rapid destruction as it took a lot of the force of the engine/transmission twisting on acceleration. Initially, I feared I might have to replace the entire linkage assembly (~$200), but noticed a part number on the (nylon?) bushing, googled it, and found it could be had for about $15, shipped. Even better, Mike Shaw SAAB on Colorado Blvd. had exactly one in stock for $14 and I had Friday off of work to go down and grab it. It was more than a little depressing to see the SAAB dealership lot full of Chevy cars and trucks, a sign of the times.

While I was out and about, I figured I might as well also run to http://www.upullandpay.com/denver/home the UPullAndPay self-service salvage yard, since they had a '99 SAAB 9-3 (more or less identical to 94-98 SAAB 900), plus my roommate was interested in picking over their '96 Audi A6 Quattro for compatible parts for his '92 Audi 100 CS Quattro. I picked a ECU, ECU harness plug, cooling fan+shroud, exhaust heat shield, Trionic5 boost control valve, auto-climate-control cabin sensor, four relays, and some misc interior trim bolts I had been missing, all for $72. Cool place, I may have to visit the one in Aurora, they have some more compatible SAABs there...

Getting home, I dropped the shifter bushing in and reconnected the linkage. Presto, the shifter was once again tight and could hit all the gears.

Today, I installed a new AC receiver-drier, checked the system was still holding vacuum, then added 28g of PAG 46 compressor oil and ~730g of r134a refrigerant, and had a fully-functional air conditioning system once more. Though I had planned to do some more work, mostly a MTF change, I wound up getting pulled away by friends to hike and dinner, so I may work on that tomorrow. Overall, I'm satisfied with this progress!

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chromal
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minor update

Postby chromal » Mon Apr 09, 2012 9:14

Sunday, I decided it was high time I did an MTF change. I had been sitting on 2l of SAAB MTF0063 for over two months, waiting for my muddy driveway to dry out enough to do the deed. I started by trying to remove the fill plug on top of the transmission case, and didn't get much further than that. Whomever had previously serviced this tranny had stripped out the 8 mil hex head of the bolt. No big deal, I thought, after all, my Honda Civic doesn't even have a fill plug per se-- just a drain plug and a 'top level' plug analogous to the SAAB's drain and "level check" plugs, respectively.

It proved to still be quite a challenge, however, as both plugs were incredibly awkward to get to; the drain plug didn't even leave enough space between it and the subframe to get a hex key in, much less the 8 mil hex socket I ultimately needed to unfreeze both bolts. The level-check plug was only really accessible by removing the front left wheel. It took a lot of cursing and repositioning the transmission relative to the subframe with a crowbar before I was able to remove both bolts, draining the old fluid and then refilling with 1.8l of new MTF0063. The drain plug magnet had a fair amount of small ferrous filings and smaller 'metallic sludge,' stuck to it. This I cleaned off before replacing.

I checked to see if I could install my salvaged forward exhaust heat-shield without separating or dropping the exhaust pipe. No biscuit, it will need to be dropped or separated to install the shield. Some other day, perhaps.

As long as I was covered in driveway mud and oil, I figured I might as well do an engine oil + filter change while I was at it. I drained the Castrol GTX 5w-30 I had been running over the winter and replaced with Castrol GTX 10w-40, an oil better suited to summer temps and turbocharger use.

The air conditioner appears to be holding its charge still, which is a relief. Dark colored car + high elevation sun can lead to some solar oven like heat, and we have already had some days over 85'F (30'C) this spring.

One minor gotcha that was causing me some concern was that the shifter was still ever so slightly out of alignment; when I parked the car and put it in reverse, the ignition key lock still wouldn't turn to the key release position unless I pulled back slightly on the gear selector stick. Today, I went back in and fiddled with the linkage alignment some more, and now I'm pleased to report it is once again in full alignment, I can turn and remove the key in the ignition without touching the stick shifter once it's in reverse.

Hopefully some time later this week, I'll be able to get my new Hankook Ventus V4 205/50R16 tires mounted and balanced, and get a four-wheel alignment service done on the SAAB.

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chromal
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Postby chromal » Mon Apr 23, 2012 9:14

Minor updates on the SAAB as of late. Replacing the shifter linkage bushing definitely fixed the problem, but after a few hundred miles of driving, I was still dissatisfied with the shift smoothness, particularly for 2nd gear. Things were still slightly out of alignment, and so I spent some time on Friday playing with the linkage adjustment and came up with a configuration I was much happier with.

Earlier in the month, on Friday the 13th, the ignition switch started doing a new trick; when turned to 'START' it would fail to spring back to 'ON' when the key was released. I first noticed this because the ACC panel remained blank, and, fortunately, caught on to the issue (and the unhappy starter noise) before further damage could occur. (We'll come back to this in a moment).

This past Saturday, my roommate and I headed down to a local 'Upullandpay' salvage yard. He was looking for Audi 100 parts, me for SAAB 900/9-3 parts and 6th gen Honda civic parts. They had received new examples of each at this particular boneyard, and so we headed down to see what we might be able to recover for our various cars/projects.

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They had a 1995 SAAB 900S with a B234L engine and a 5MT tranny. It wasn't immediately apparent why this car had met its fate, all the body panels and doors looked clean. Perhaps a mechanical failure? I went to work and pulled the Mk2 shifter linkage and mount, alternator, ABS module, and a few other odds and ends. Later I found a 6th gen Honda Civic and pulled the AC compressor (the AC pulley clutch in my Civic's AC compressor had failed some time ago) from it.

Getting back out to the parking lot, my roommate and I loaded our various finds into the rear cargo space of my 900 SE, then I went back inside the customer counter building of the junkyard to wash my hands in their bathroom. Roommate wanted to start car and get the Air Conditioner running to cool things down. When I came back out, he was sitting in the driver seat, the car was not running. He explained that the ACC display panel wouldn't light, and when he stopped the car to try restarting, it wouldn't turn over. Almost immediately, I realized that he had likely released the key, which likely remained stuck in the 'START' position on the ignition switch. The starter had almost certainly burnt out.

Just to verify we could even drive home, we rolled the car down the slightly-inclined parking lot grade and I popped the clutch in 1st gear, starting the engine. I reparked the car in a quiet corner of the lot, at the top of the grade, and then we went back inside the lot and I pulled the starter assembly from the SAAB 900S, hoping the B234L MT starter would indeed fit my B204L MT starter. Popping the clutch a second time (feeling all the more guilty for it), I got the car started and made the 40 mile drive home.

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After it had cooled, I pulled the non-functioning starter and did some tests of it and the bone yard pull. The starter that I pulled from my 900 would actuate the flywheel gear, but otherwise did nothing. The one pulled earlier from the 900S seemed to worked correctly, and so I installed it in my SAAB. Testing it in the car, the vehicle started normally, so that was that.

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Just for fun, I disassembled the dead starter on my workbench the next morning. Many bits of ferrous metal fell out, and when I pulled the rotor, I saw the stator had partially disintegrated, also releasing some of the brush assemblies. The gear/solenoid assembly seemed OK, but the motor was definitely kaput. (anyone want to buy a solenoid/gear assembly, or want to sell their good starter motor? :) )

UPDATE: Swapped in the SRS module from the '95 900S. SRS warning gone! Not sure what to do with the module I pulled from my '96 900SE; it's "good," but needs a dealer-only reset.

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chromal
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Postby chromal » Wed May 09, 2012 9:14

No news is good news? Well, not entirely, a couple of things. First off, back in feb/march when I dropped an ECU with faulty MOSFETs in, I think I wound up frying the APC/BPC (auto pressure control / boost pressure control) valve with hard DC current vs the 100hz AC it expects. Normally, this might leave me with base boost (~2 PSI), but it actually got stuck with compressor/wastegate/return all isolated/closed, essentially no ECU boost control, and this wasn't obvious beyond a very few excursions up to overboost and fuel cut above 4k RPM, somewhere I don't usually run much.

I had picked up another BPC valve as an afterthought at the upullandpay, and so, after verifying this ECU has good MOSFETs and replacing the blown APC fuse, have been running on the replacement. It doesn't really change the experience of driving the car, but gives the ECU more ways to protect the engine when detecting knock.

Still fiddling here and there with the manual shifter linkage alignment. At some point, I'll probably just get fed up and drop in the mkII linkage used on 1997+ model year 900s that I picked up off a scrapped 900... but I'm a little hesitant because there's no going back. (Literally, you must cut off the MkI tranny case bushing mount).

LTFTs still high, will continue to explore this as time permits. Need to acquire MAPS and IATS spares and see if these are the cause. (No MAFS on the 96 900 SE turbo, air flow is calulated based on engine RPM, intake air temp, and manifold pressure by the ECU.)


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