The S2000

[Shadowden]

I learned it watching the interviews of the olympians!


Thanks deck!

[Shadowden]

I got the Helm book for my car last night. The thing blows any Chilton/Haynes manual I have seen out of the water. If only I understood everything in the book. Attached is the diagnostic sequence for my current CEL/MIL light.

ecam and PAt, I think you both would understand tis quite easily...It seems straight forward.

Having used dichotomous keys extensively, I love the lay out for working through.

[ecam8000]

ecam and PAt, I think you both would understand tis quite easily...It seems straight forward.

Having used dichotomous keys extensively, I love the lay out for working through.

Understand the book just fine. Dichotomous.....another story. Don't use such big words.

[tsx_guy]

that made my head hurt!

[SecondGenPAt]

I got the Helm book for my car last night. The thing blows any Chilton/Haynes manual I have seen out of the water. If only I understood everything in the book. Attached is the diagnostic sequence for my current CEL/MIL light.

ecam and PAt, I think you both would understand tis quite easily...It seems straight forward.

Having used dichotomous keys extensively, I love the lay out for working through.

First we need a knowledge of how *most* temperature sensors work.
They are classed as NTC, or Negative Temperature Coefficient. As the temperature drops, the internal resistance of the sensor increases.
**I believe that book I left with you may have a generic chart or (Map) as it's called for the resistance/temperature relationship in the engine electrical section.
oh hell, here's this:
http://www.aa1car.com/library/air_temp_sensors.htm

The gist of that fault description is stating that the -20°C reading should mean that the sensor is in a state of above normal resistance, or effectively *open* (very low reference voltage returning on the SG2 wire)
If this is the case, but the sensor shows a very low resistance reading then the last two procedures are directing you to check for faulty wiring and ECU.

You'll need a scan tool that reads live data for this. along with a couple choice resistors from radio shack. 1 from the upper end of the map, one from theh lower end.

Easy enough:

.) Connect scan tool
.) turn ign switch to run
.) link scan tool to ecu
.) scroll to IAT sensor reading
.) unplug the sensor, reading should default to -20°c (same as bridging it)
.) plug in resistor #1, does the reading change roughly where it needs to be?
.) plug in resistor #2, again, does the reading go where it should?

if yes to the last two then the sensor is bad.

feel free to call, text when you're trouble shooting and I'll be glad to help

[Shadowden]

First we need a knowledge of how *most* temperature sensors work.
They are classed as NTC, or Negative Temperature Coefficient. As the temperature drops, the internal resistance of the sensor increases.
**I believe that book I left with you may have a generic chart or (Map) as it's called for the resistance/temperature relationship in the engine electrical section.
oh hell, here's this:
http://www.aa1car.com/library/air_temp_sensors.htm

The gist of that fault description is stating that the -20°C reading should mean that the sensor is in a state of above normal resistance, or effectively *open* (very low reference voltage returning on the SG2 wire)
If this is the case, but the sensor shows a very low resistance reading then the last two procedures are directing you to check for faulty wiring and ECU.

You'll need a scan tool that reads live data for this. along with a couple choice resistors from radio shack. 1 from the upper end of the map, one from theh lower end.

Easy enough:

.) Connect scan tool
.) turn ign switch to run
.) link scan tool to ecu
.) scroll to IAT sensor reading
.) unplug the sensor, reading should default to -20°c (same as bridging it)
.) plug in resistor #1, does the reading change roughly where it needs to be?
.) plug in resistor #2, again, does the reading go where it should?

if yes to the last two then the sensor is bad.

feel free to call, text when you're trouble shooting and I'll be glad to help

Thanks, I read up on how the sensors work more. Was pretty interesting. They don't look like much on the outside, but there is a lot of cool stuff happening. That book is helpful by the way. A lot of reading there for sure, but hands on has a much bigger impact on me.

I'm hoping its not an ecu, but if it is, I have a line on one...which will require my keys to be reprogrammed at a dealer. However, having said that, a previous owner decided to splice something into the wire for the IAT, so chances are, that is the bugaboo...

[ecam8000]

First we need a knowledge of how *most* temperature sensors work.
They are classed as NTC, or Negative Temperature Coefficient. As the temperature drops, the internal resistance of the sensor increases.
**I believe that book I left with you may have a generic chart or (Map) as it's called for the resistance/temperature relationship in the engine electrical section.
oh hell, here's this:
http://www.aa1car.com/library/air_temp_sensors.htm

The gist of that fault description is stating that the -20°C reading should mean that the sensor is in a state of above normal resistance, or effectively *open* (very low reference voltage returning on the SG2 wire)
If this is the case, but the sensor shows a very low resistance reading then the last two procedures are directing you to check for faulty wiring and ECU.

You'll need a scan tool that reads live data for this. along with a couple choice resistors from radio shack. 1 from the upper end of the map, one from theh lower end.

Easy enough:

.) Connect scan tool
.) turn ign switch to run
.) link scan tool to ecu
.) scroll to IAT sensor reading
.) unplug the sensor, reading should default to -20°c (same as bridging it)
.) plug in resistor #1, does the reading change roughly where it needs to be?
.) plug in resistor #2, again, does the reading go where it should?

if yes to the last two then the sensor is bad.

feel free to call, text when you're trouble shooting and I'll be glad to help

This guy is good!

[SecondGenPAt]

I'm hoping its not an ecu, but if it is, I have a line on one...which will require my keys to be reprogrammed at a dealer. However, having said that, a previous owner decided to splice something into the wire for the IAT, so chances are, that is the bugaboo...

I highly doubt it's the ecu. Japanese ECU's rarely go bad.
I believe you called it on the splice the previous (I'll be nice here) "owner" tied into the wire. I don't know what kind of splice it is, but if he/she used a scotch lock then that did damage the wire.

If you find the wire is bad, cut out the section of damaged wire and repair it with a butt crimp connector.

[kingtut]

Repeat: butt crimp connector.

[AuroraAxela]

Why not solder?

trollololololol

[ecam8000]

I highly doubt it's the ecu. Japanese ECU's rarely go bad.
I believe you called it on the splice the previous (I'll be nice here) "owner" tied into the wire. I don't know what kind of splice it is, but if he/she used a scotch lock then that did damage the wire.

If you find the wire is bad, cut out the section of damaged wire and repair it with a butt crimp connector.

The splice was a male/female flag connector with shrouds. Snapped together, there was a bit of slop in the connection. We cut out that connector and installed a heat seal crimp but connector. We'll have to wait and see if that did the trick. All other diag test were perfomed from the manual. All test passed.....

[Shadowden]

Last night ecam graciously hosted the S2000. In the neighboring bay was a berlina black S2000 cr, which is the track edition. The othe S2K was highly modified for autox work. It is a beautiful car with a lot of amazing bits throughout.

After taking a look at the other car ecam and I set to work on running through the diagnostics on the IAT MIL (Intake Air Temperature sensor Malunction Indicator Lamp). Ecam also showed me his crimp tool. I have never seen one so big and so thick. It actually ratchets and won't release until it has crimped to the right size. Next to his crimper, my crimper looked weak and pathetic, so I put it back in the trunk. I was then shown the nice butt crimp connector we would use to fix the splice.

From this point on, ecam set me to work finding the ECU (behind the drivers side exterior kickpanel), exposing it (remove door sill, and two fasteners from kickpanel). While I was doing this, he went ahead and redid the wire splice. Once the ecu was exposed, he disconnected the battery (apparently these super awesome cars have a little green knob that disconnects the ground without removing the battery cable). I then disconnected the harness from the ecu and pulled the ecu. Ecam inspected the pins. we then went through the diagnostics as above. Pretty simple stuff once you get going on it and have everything apart. Since the splice was already repaired, things sort of pointed toward the ecu, which you would expect if it was an intermittant open at that splice.

We put everything back together, and cleared the code. So far I have driven>60 miles and am ready to call the ECL issue repaired. It was a $1.00 fix, so to speak.


Thanks to ecam and PAt for the help on this one...next up brake/clutch fluid flush and bleed, oil change, and coolant flush. Also a detail day with Tut (and possibly Huzer).

[kingtut]

We put everything back together, and cleared the code. So far I have driven>60 miles and am ready to call the ECL issue repaired. It was a $1.00 fix, so to speak.


Thanks to ecam and PAt for the help on this one...next up brake/clutch fluid flushand bleed , oil change, and coolant flush. Also a detail day with Tut (and possibly Huzer).

Great news dude, glad to hear! I look forward to our...ahem, date.

[ecam8000]

We put everything back together, and cleared the code. So far I have driven>60 miles and am ready to call the ECL issue repaired. It was a $1.00 fix, so to speak.

You haven't got the bill yet.

[kingtut]

Shadow does not have money. But what he does have is a particular set of skills. A set of skills that he has acquired over a long period of time. Skills that make him a nightmare to people like...

Seriously though, he has been known to offer 'services' in lieu of payment.