Yeah that's some seriously low mileage for the year. Looks really good too!

Looks good in person too. Being non Mazda, it has already needed some work....

These are some pictures from the day I got it. Still probably not the angle Chris wants.





Exhaust note at WOT and at 6500+ rpm is pretty incredible.

Oh, and re: rotaries...that HP does you no good if the car doesn't run

Although, as ecam has said, it already needs work...we (term used loosely) changed the differential fluid and transmission fluid. We (term used loosely the other way) also tested the IAT sensor and wiring for it to figure out a CEL. Sensor and wiring both tested good, but we still replaced the sensor. CEL continues to be annoying. Next step is for ecam to redo the wiring (I'm hoping to learn how to solder wire to get rid of crimped connections).

In all seriousness, this car is really fun to drive. I've still not really pushed the car too much on the corners. That is what autox will be for. I am in the process of picking up stock wheels for it. They will be a little more visible and will be used for Autox/winter (again, not snow, just cold pavement).

Shadowden wrote:Oh, and re: rotaries...that HP does you no good if the car doesn't run

It's only FDs that don't run...haha.

Clean car...like others, I'm still shocked you found one with such low mileage. Hopefully you get the CEL/wiring figured out!

Driving a RWD convertible in the snow isn't so bad if you get the right tires for it. My Miata is my snow car and it gets around fine on studded snow tires. And your heat probably works better than mine, lol.

erod550 wrote:Driving a RWD convertible in the snow isn't so bad if you get the right tires for it. My Miata is my snow car and it gets around fine on studded snow tires. And your heat probably works better than mine, lol.

I'm planning to pick up the wheels/tires in the Springs next week. I'll have the tires unmounted and then take them for powder coating. What snow tires you running? These will have hankooks on the rears. Could probably have them studded.

Hankook Winter iPikes. Pic is not mine but might as well be because they look just like that.

There are other things to consider about winter driving too though, like all the dirt and gravel they put down instead of salt. It might avoid rusting but it doesn't avoid paint chips. My Miata is my beater and has been legally totaled from hail damage (and probably would have been again a couple months ago if it wasn't already) so I don't care about rock chips on it.

erod550 wrote:There are other things to consider about winter driving too though, like all the dirt and gravel they put down instead of salt. It might avoid rusting but it doesn't avoid paint chips. My Miata is my beater and has been legally totaled from hail damage (and probably would have been again a couple months ago if it wasn't already) so I don't care about rock chips on it.

That stuff is on the road even when there isn't snow in the winter and it REALLLY does suck. Once I get my rock chips fixed, I'm going to be doing a lot of clear bra...including behind the wheels. Hopefully CDOT is quick in getting the highways cleaned up once the winter season is over and the real "driving" season begins.


Guy says the rears are Hankook Ice Bears...http://www.1010tires.com/Tires/Reviews/Hankook/Icebear+W300

Shadowden wrote:These are some pictures from the day I got it. Still probably not the angle Chris wants.

my standards are unobtainable

Nice. I love S2k's. One thing though. It needs a hardtop :P

Saul_Good wrote:Nice. I love S2k's. One thing though. It needs a hardtop :P

Ew no.

Shadowden wrote: Sensor and wiring both tested good, but we still replaced the sensor. CEL continues to be annoying. Next step is for ecam to redo the wiring (I'm hoping to learn how to solder wire to get rid of crimped connections).

Ryan.... Almost clicked groan for this post, almost. We do not solder on automobiles, no. Stop it. (peter griffin voice). Solder wicks into the wire and creates a sold joint that does not handle vibration well. at both ends where the solder ends weakens the wire. You add to this the vibrations associated with cars and the wire will break apart over time. This creates intermittent, extremely difficult to trace down electrical problems. This also allows water into the joint ( after the sharp ends of solder have torn through the heat shrink / electrical tape. As you may guess, this also has the potential for fasciating light shows and or fire due to short circuits.

Now that we've covered soldering, let's talk crimp connectors.

When the good quality crimp connectors are used (read 3M sealant filled heat shrink covered) along with the proper quality crimping tool ($45 from the Snap-on truck) there is nothing wrong with crimp connectors.
The bare crimp connectors covered with Raychem heat shrink are also a fantastic alternative. If you have a question on what is what, stop by Don-O's shop and have him show you his electrial drawer on the pit cart.

sorry if there are any typos or misspellings, but I'm on my phone and the keyboard sucks.

-Pat

Thanks pat. Eric also suggested crimp connectors. I'll get some good ones. I'm now leaning on ecam to teach me things and he is as patient as you were...which is a requirement when dealing with me.its kind of funny, I don't mind doing wiring in my house, but wiring in the car is a different beast.

Very nice ride. I will own a S2000 (or something of equal performance) at some point. Love that car.