Shadow's Welding Projects (feel free to add your own)
- speedjunkie
- Senior Member
- Posts: 5293
- Joined: Wed Jan 02, 2008 9:14
- Location: Colorado Springs
- Contact:
- speedjunkie
- Senior Member
- Posts: 5293
- Joined: Wed Jan 02, 2008 9:14
- Location: Colorado Springs
- Contact:
ShadowFab MEGA-AST
Today I received my new ShadowFab MEGA-AST for my FD. Set it in place for test fit. Will have to relocate the mounting hole a little but otherwise I am very satisfied with the outcome. Shadow got a little crazy with the aluminum polish so you have to be careful opening the hood in direct sunlight without shaded glasses!!
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- speedjunkie
- Senior Member
- Posts: 5293
- Joined: Wed Jan 02, 2008 9:14
- Location: Colorado Springs
- Contact:
Receiver Hitch Step
A friend is getting a Jeep Wrangler and wanted something to put in the receiver hitch. Not sure why exactly. Through the course of conversation the idea of a step came up. Since his 40th birthday is Friday, I put this together for him.
I looked at the back of another jeep. The receiver sits pretty close in height to the spare tire. It is also fairly high. Because of these two things, I thought it wise to step the hitch down some. Really not much to say other than even simple things take a decent amount of time to construct, especially if you want things square.
The steel used
[ATTACH]2817[/ATTACH]
The steel cleaned of mill scale and surface contaminants. I left half of the 2" steel strap uncleaned for comparison.
[ATTACH]2818[/ATTACH]
Pieces cut and laid out for assembly. You can see the difference in the cleanliness of the square tubing in this picture too. No additional work done to it post cutting. I used a brown scotchbrite pad on my angle grinder to remove all of the dirt/mill scale/surface rust to this level.
[ATTACH]2816[/ATTACH]
Final product before paint. It looks like two pieces of square tubing were simply stacked. They were not. A parallelogram was cut to step the lower tube an additional inch. Getting the 3 pieces forming the length of the piece straight was a pretty difficult thing to accomplish for me. The cuts I made with my chop saw were off some from a correct 45, so there was a lot of variance in the gap that was welded. The more weld/heat, you put in an area, the more shrinkage that occurs. I managed to win the battle somehow.
[ATTACH]2814[/ATTACH]
Here it is on the paint rack. I used VHT Chassis and Roll Bar paint in satin black. The paint is pretty fresh, thus the gloss.
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I looked at the back of another jeep. The receiver sits pretty close in height to the spare tire. It is also fairly high. Because of these two things, I thought it wise to step the hitch down some. Really not much to say other than even simple things take a decent amount of time to construct, especially if you want things square.
The steel used
[ATTACH]2817[/ATTACH]
The steel cleaned of mill scale and surface contaminants. I left half of the 2" steel strap uncleaned for comparison.
[ATTACH]2818[/ATTACH]
Pieces cut and laid out for assembly. You can see the difference in the cleanliness of the square tubing in this picture too. No additional work done to it post cutting. I used a brown scotchbrite pad on my angle grinder to remove all of the dirt/mill scale/surface rust to this level.
[ATTACH]2816[/ATTACH]
Final product before paint. It looks like two pieces of square tubing were simply stacked. They were not. A parallelogram was cut to step the lower tube an additional inch. Getting the 3 pieces forming the length of the piece straight was a pretty difficult thing to accomplish for me. The cuts I made with my chop saw were off some from a correct 45, so there was a lot of variance in the gap that was welded. The more weld/heat, you put in an area, the more shrinkage that occurs. I managed to win the battle somehow.
[ATTACH]2814[/ATTACH]
Here it is on the paint rack. I used VHT Chassis and Roll Bar paint in satin black. The paint is pretty fresh, thus the gloss.
[ATTACH]2819[/ATTACH]
freestanding fixed position weight bench
Building a weight bench to use with squat stands. This allows easy storage since bench press is not an often employed exercise by me. It also is a fixed position bench for simplicity.
Constructed out of 2" square tubing (1/8" wall) and 2" angle (1/4" wall). I used 2"x1/8" plate to cap the ends of the tubing.
Dimensions of the bench are:
40" top tube
13" vertical leg
13" horizontal feet
8 1.5" wide angle pieces (4/side) spaced evenly
This should provide a 18" top surface when the 3/4" ply is added and assumes about 1/4" of foam once compressed by the lifters weight.
Frame
[ATTACH]2820[/ATTACH]
Frame with tubes capped
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angle in place
(to be added)
painted
(to be added)
with pad in place
(to be added)
Constructed out of 2" square tubing (1/8" wall) and 2" angle (1/4" wall). I used 2"x1/8" plate to cap the ends of the tubing.
Dimensions of the bench are:
40" top tube
13" vertical leg
13" horizontal feet
8 1.5" wide angle pieces (4/side) spaced evenly
This should provide a 18" top surface when the 3/4" ply is added and assumes about 1/4" of foam once compressed by the lifters weight.
Frame
[ATTACH]2820[/ATTACH]
Frame with tubes capped
[ATTACH]2821[/ATTACH]
angle in place
(to be added)
painted
(to be added)
with pad in place
(to be added)
Saul_good Laser plate
Simple plate to allow more room for toe board calibration.
Cut out some plate with oxy-acetylene torch
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Drilled some holes and oval them on the mill
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Cut out some plate with oxy-acetylene torch
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Drilled some holes and oval them on the mill
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Garage Gym Pull up Structure
Here are some photos of a garage gym pull up structure I put together. The center brace is 2"x2" 11ga steel. The mounting flanges are 1/4" steel, and the actual pull up bar is 1 1/4" x 11ga tubing. The span from wall to center support is 55". The pull up bar is 36.75" from the back wall and 7'2" from the floor. The pull up bar tubing is 1 continuous piece from flange, through the center brace, and welded into place at the other flange.
The Center Brace
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In place and painted
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The Center Brace
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In place and painted
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No pictures, but today I got to help rebuild a large cast iron gear. The gear was heated to about 400 degrees (was around 480 toward the end) by placing it adjacent to a blacksmith forge. The sheared off teeth were rebuilt using cast iron welding rod dipped into a flux. An oxy-acetylene torch was used to get the temperature high enough to create a puddle in the base metal, then filler material was added. There is a lot of art to this type of work. Messing with the puddle and rod to make the material go where you want.
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