5th/6th port

Bask · Postby **Bask** » Sun Oct 02, 2011 9:14

OKay if any one can help me out id much appreciate it.....i have a s5 fc and not sure if my 5th/6th ports are working....i bought the car wirh the airpump not hooked up. i hooked it up and cleaned out the actuators (were stuck) i got em to come loose and they work fine but i still quite unsure if my ports were working.....today i removed the intake mani (both lower and upper) but didnt know where the"sleeves were.....if any one can hook me up here itd be great help......oh and if anyone in the springs can adjust my tps i'd be ur best friend....

D Walker · Postby **D Walker** » Sun Oct 02, 2011 9:14

I have a set somewhere, and maybe a set of eliminators. Maybe.

Bask · Postby **Bask** » Sun Oct 02, 2011 9:14

let me know....i really hope that i can fix this stuck problem.....frustrates me so much lol....

SecondGenPAt · Postby **SecondGenPAt** » Sun Oct 02, 2011 9:14

the sleeves are in the upper of the holes on the endplates. you should see a shaft the entire diameter of the hole. that is the sleeve. try rotating it. if it rotates then pull it out to inspect.
if it doesn't rotate, then Houston we have a problem...

I believe the S5 ports are controlled by the ecm. let me check and I'll post back

EDIT:
Yep, both the ports and VDI are ecm controlled
Brown solenoid controls 5/6 ports
white solenoid controls VDI

Make sure the solenoid is activating and that the vacuum lines are not leaking. (if they've never been replaced then they are leaking, along with all the other original lines)

Also, download the manual.
http://foxed.ca/foxed/index.php?page=rx7manual

Bask · Postby **Bask** » Sun Oct 02, 2011 9:14

end plates? lol.....okay when i pulled off the LIM.....i followed where the actuator led to...i saw part of the "rod" in side housing (whatever u call it...passenger side of the engine block that the actuators connect to. and by looking at it theres no way to remove the rod w/o removing "side housing"...i tried to rotate the piece the actuator connects to but no luck.....

:2202c3ee:

SecondGenPAt · Postby **SecondGenPAt** » Sun Oct 02, 2011 9:14

side housing/endplate is the same thing. We could further describe them by adding the prefix of front or rear, but I don't think we're ready for that complexity just yet...

the sleeves should pull straight out of the side housing. The rod is part of the sleeve, not the housing.
If you cannot rotate the rod cw or ccw then the sleeve is indeed stuck. The best way to free them in my opinion is to let them soak in penetrating oil overnight. The best pen lube I've used is: Toyota Lube; available from, you guess it, a Toyota Dealership. In lieu of TL you can use PB Blaster. Soak the endplate/sleeve connection as good as you can. Allow the pen lube to work.
If this is a dd and you need it for tomorrow then let the pen lube work for 1/2 hour, then try to move the shaft ( don't use a lot of force) The goal is to get the sleeve wiggling. apply more pen lube as needed and continue wiggling. Eventually you should be holding the sleeve.

Bask · Postby **Bask** » Sun Oct 02, 2011 9:14

will try tomorrow....i just put everything back as to it is my DD.....and just to make sure ..once i do get the sleeves out i should soak them in some kind of carb cleaner s before putting them back in?....

SecondGenPAt · Postby **SecondGenPAt** » Sun Oct 02, 2011 9:14

clean the sleeves and the bore in the endplates with a good carb cleaner or throttle body cleaner. 3M makes excellent stuff.

The sleeves are silver in their natural color.
Your endplates are going to have rust in them and this is what you want to remove from the bore. A scotch bright pad and if needed a stiff brass brush and carb/throttle body cleaner will do the trick on the endplates.

The sleeves should only need chemical and paper towel. nothing too abrasive as they are aluminum IIRC. A scotch bright pad may be needed, but lightly.

Bask · Postby **Bask** » Sun Oct 02, 2011 9:14

much appreciated cant wait to do this tomorrow

iani1.1 · Postby **iani1.1** » Sun Oct 02, 2011 9:14

It's actually better to take off the whole lim and clean it. Last time I had to clean it i used scotch bright and carbed cleaner. I didn't read everything but the aux ports are controlled by the ecu on the s5 via and should open up by 3k.

Bask · Postby **Bask** » Mon Oct 03, 2011 9:14

thanks guys....i have a four day weekend so ill give it a crack then....any ways anyone in the springs willing to help adjust my tps.....? maybe take my fc for a ride ( and help me figure out some of the kinks happening)....since i put her back together shes been kinda pissy, this close to drop kickin her. when i let off throttle feels boggy....

alex_n/a · Postby **alex_n/a** » Tue Oct 04, 2011 9:14

to adjust the tps you will need a multi meter and thin gauge wire (16 and up) a flat head screw driver. I could help you with that but I'm in Aurora, so best I can do is show you exactly what to do. There is also a guide online for the T2 but also works for n/a.

Postby **RX-7 Chris** » Tue Oct 04, 2011 9:14

S5 are ecu controlled. I cleaned them on my SE. The best way is to remove the intake completely.

There should be a way to test them in the FSM
you can get it here: http://foxed.ca/foxed/index.php?page=rx7manual

Edit: download 04A_Fuel_and_Emission_control_systems_non_turbo.pdf . go to page F1-42. It tells you how to test them there.

iani1.1 · Postby **iani1.1** » Tue Oct 04, 2011 9:14

alex_n/a wrote:to adjust the tps you will need a multi meter and thin gauge wire (16 and up) a flat head screw driver. I could help you with that but I'm in Aurora, so best I can do is show you exactly what to do. There is also a guide online for the T2 but also works for n/a.

make a video :mellow:

5th/6th port

5th/6th port

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