Build thread

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speedjunkie
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Re: Build thread

Postby speedjunkie » Thu Nov 25, 2021 9:14

So the fuel pressure issue is confusing. When I start the car from cold, the fuel pressure will be normal. But if I stop the car and restart it warm, the fuel pressure drops down to around 27psi and slowly builds up to about 34psi. It will still rise with throttle, but it's lower than usual.

I did some work on the car today. I figured I'd start tearing into it since it will probably be too cold to drive it now. I removed the side mirrors again and pulled them apart so I can take all the Ganador pieces to get 3D scanned. I also removed the column covers to get them scanned, and I'm going to get the triangles on the inside and outside of the doors scanned, although I think there is already a file somewhere for those. I'm also going to get the RE-Amemiya sleek headlight buckets scanned because I have an idea for a cleaner mounting solution for those, and the charcoal canister so I can make one that can be opened and the charcoal swapped out, and the secondary fuel rail so I can enlarge the ID for the two extra injectors, and one of the relay boxes in the engine bay because the mount for mine broke.

This past Tuesday my alarm set itself and started going off with the passenger door open. Normally it would set itself with the door closed for about ten seconds, which I think was already wrong, but it wasn't so bad. CPU2 is known to fail after so many years, and the alarm is one of the things that goes through the CPU. I had bought a new CPU2 a couple years ago but I haven't installed it yet. I pulled the old one today in order to open it and check it out, and I noticed a broken wire to one of the connectors, and that broken wire goes to the passenger door. The last time I fixed some of the other wires on that connector I just used splices and I'm going to redo those too so they're soldered nice. And I broke the connector while removing it so I ordered a new one.

I only worked on it for a couple hours today and got quite a bit done. I guess it doesn't take near as long when you're tearing stuff apart vs putting it back together.

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Re: Build thread

Postby speedjunkie » Wed Dec 01, 2021 9:14

I got the connector for the CPU2 today and installed it tonight and fixed the funky wiring and broken wires. Initially I only noticed one broken wire, but I found another one tonight. One of them went to the passenger door lock switch, and the one I found today went to the door key cylinder switches.

Now I want to get the CPU checked out and make sure it's good before I reinstall it, because it's kind of a bitch to get in and out. And I want to see why my alarm is arming without the doors being locked. It could be due to a connector behind the driver's door panel I disconnected years ago to get rid of a draw on the battery, and disconnecting that disabled the passenger door unlocking with the driver's door. Either way, I'm going to do some digging.

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Re: Build thread

Postby speedjunkie » Sat Dec 04, 2021 9:14

I put in the new CPU2 today. I was looking to get the old one fixed and save the new one for a rainy day, but I didn't want to wait to see if it fixed my problems and I'll still get the old one fixed and save it. Now the alarm only arms if the door is locked from the inside. If I lock it with the key, it won't arm. Weird. But at least it's not arming with the door open and it's not arming with the door closed but unlocked.

I reconnected the connector on the driver's door that I disconnected years ago because I traced a draw on the system to that connector. I noticed some time after disconnecting it that the passenger door no longer unlocked when unlocking the driver's door, so I figured it was that. But it still didn't work after reconnecting it tonight, so I'm not sure if it's due to a bad part or what.

I also repaired the map pocket lid on the driver's door. It came off a couple months ago but I think it's fairly solid now. I added a bushing to one side of the lid, actually it's a little plastic vacuum hose coupler that I modified a little but it works great. I've been thinking about adding a little padding to the map lid because my elbow rests on it when I have my hands at 10 and 2.

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Re: Build thread

Postby speedjunkie » Thu Dec 09, 2021 9:14

After some troubleshooting I discovered that the problem with the unlocking problem is something between the connector where the door harness plugs in and the 3 way where that wire joins and splits off to CPU2 and the timer unit. That should be fun to work on lol.

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Re: Build thread

Postby speedjunkie » Mon Dec 20, 2021 9:14

I finally got around to troubleshooting the lock problem again yesterday. I wasn't excited about it because I thought I was going to have to remove the door or the fender, but I was able to get the connector poked through into the car. I had continuity from the connector to the 3-way, and since I'd already determined the door harness was good, that left me to inspecting the connectors themselves. They looked good, so I bent the pin upwards just a bit and it made contact and everything is working again. Well, I should say the door lock system is fully functional again, but now the windows aren't working for some reason. I'm pretty sure all the connectors are connected, maybe I'm missing something. The windows aren't currently installed, but I don't see why that would be an issue.

I also pulled the rotor pedals off the clutch and brake pedals to give myself just a tad more room for my legs, and I pulled the IC and intake pipe and started changing the angle of the radiator. I need a new radiator anyway since this one is seeping just like the last one. I'm really wondering if I need some kind of modular solution so I can just change out the core or something lol, since I go through them so often. I'm thinking about making an intake box also so I can get rid of the pipe, and I really want to change the IC and piping also, but I don't really have the money for doing all that at the moment.

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Re: Build thread

Postby speedjunkie » Wed Jan 05, 2022 9:14

I replaced the bearings in both the aftermarket idler pulleys, and I noticed the battery tender blinking even after it had been plugged in for several days, indicating that it's still charging. I thought maybe I have a draw on the system again. I know I have a bit of a draw, but for it to keep the battery from fully charging is strange. I figured maybe I didn't fix the issue with the door wiring since it put a draw on the system years ago, but it didn't add any to what there already was. With the battery disconnected I get a draw of about 25mA (even disconnected I still have the stereo memory, the USB ports in the center console, and the phone holder/charger still hooked up), and about 78mA with the battery connected, which is somewhat high but still not crazy and the battery is usually disconnected anyway. So maybe the battery is going bad. That would really suck. Or maybe it's the tender itself. It is kinda beat up.

I bought a new dual pass Koyo radiator, I'll take it to get modified for Vmount configuration once it comes in. I am going to change a few things with the mounting and inlet and outlet. The back will be dropped a little so the condenser isn't high enough to make contact with the air filter and so the back of the IC can drop a little more and I can make some mounting brackets for it, although I'm thinking of getting a slightly larger IC core and changing the end tanks and piping, and possibly shift it to the driver's side a little to make more room for the air filter. Anyway, the front of the radiator has to come up also so it isn't the lowest hanging part on the front of the car. And being that I've been going through radiators faster than I go through oil changes, I'm going to try to make it a little more modular so I don't have to get so much changed when I get a new one, and hopefully the new mounting solution will ease some of the wear on it. I'm planning to use the stock mounting points for the bottom/leading edge of it by finding my old stock brackets and cutting off the mounting portion and having those welded onto brackets that will bolt to the bottom of the car, and I think I'll either weld on or bolt on some brackets off those to mount the AC condenser to try to clean up the mounting a little. I'll have some mounts made for the rear too and use the stock brackets for those as well if I can find them again.

As for the idea of doing hard lines for the turbo coolant and oil supply, I'm kinda leaning against it now. After doing some research it seems some people with other cars have had issues with vibration cracking the lines over time if they're not supported by a clamp somewhere in between. I can't think of a place to put a clamp, although the coolant lines should be fairly short, at least one of them, so maybe it wouldn't be an issue. People suggested annealed seamless stainless steel tubing though if that project does move forward. I was planning on pulling the engine out this winter to tackle that, and possibly replace the oil pan with a shorter version if I could find one (it hangs lower than the subframe too), but I'm not sure I feel like doing that until I'm ready to get the car and engine bay painted, and I'd clean up the water injection pump mount at the same time. But paint and body work might be a year or two off yet.

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Re: Build thread

Postby speedjunkie » Sun Jan 09, 2022 9:14

The new radiator came in Friday, but after talking to Zico last night I decided to send it back and get a different brand. He had the same issue with his Koyo years ago, and I'm on about number 5 right now and most of them have had this issue, I'm tired of dealing with it. The problem now is finding a suitable replacement.

Today I pulled the radiator out and changed the mount for the boost solenoid to make it cleaner even though it's hidden by the intake piping lol.

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Re: Build thread

Postby speedjunkie » Wed Jan 12, 2022 9:14

Someone on 7club mentioned stray current in a radiator thread I started. So I guess I'll be looking into that right after I get the car running again.

FS119_-_Stray_current_corrosion_in_cooling_systems.pdf (ipswichradiators.com.au)

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Re: Build thread

Postby speedjunkie » Mon Jan 17, 2022 9:14

I've done so much searching for a radiator core so I can just swap the end tanks over, but all I've found so far is too expensive to make sense (PWR quoted $500+ and 18 weeks lead time for just the core) or people just aren't getting back to me. US Radiators responded but most of the reviews I read weren't favorable. Bell got back to me today but I haven't seen a quote yet. I decided to try one last Koyo and dropped off the one I already bought to Nick so he can modify it, he said it'll be finished tomorrow already. I'm not in a hurry though, I still have so many things I want to work on and I still need to design and get the new mounts for it made. The new mounts are also forcing my hand to get a different tow hook since the current one is in the way, so I plan on getting a threaded removable tow hook like newer models use and getting a coupler nut or something to weld to the radiator mount. I'm not crazy about having it attached to the radiator mount, but even if it pulled off it shouldn't damage the radiator. Although maybe there is a workaround where it's not even attached there.

I'd like to go ahead and do a new IC and piping while I'm at it but we'll have to see what funds look like.

I pulled the fuel rail and charcoal canister out this weekend so I can get them 3D scanned along with the mirrors and some other stuff. I contacted a couple companies in Denver and one said it would be $75 per part, the other company said $4500. Yikes lol. I'm guessing they don't want the business at the moment.

I had a feeling my alternator might be bad, and I noticed it's squeaking, so I took it to a rebuild shop that I've been to a couple times and they said they don't do rebuilds anymore and it's definitely bad, and most likely my battery is bad too. I have noticed that the tender is acting funny, so I assume the battery actually is bad. Ugh, more to buy. I'm not sure if I want to do another upgraded alternator or not, since I have added a few electronics. I don't think I really NEED one, but they're not much more expensive than some of the regular 100a alternators. As for batteries, I'm not sure if I want to swap to something else or keep the small Optima yellow top. More research I guess.

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Re: Build thread

Postby speedjunkie » Sun Jan 23, 2022 9:14

Xavier and I pressure tested the old radiator and confirmed where the leak is coming from, lower right corner as I suspected.
Image20220114_172708 by Eric Jausel, on Flickr

I got the new radiator back from Nick. Looks great! He welded on mounts for the condenser too, so if this one fails I should be able to just swap over the end tanks to a new core and keep rocking. For the front condenser mounts he was just going to do them like the rear ones, but I wanted them to be able to flow air through them still. I just hope they don't whistle haha, I hadn't thought about that until a couple days later.
Image20220120_212152 by Eric Jausel, on Flickr
Image20220120_212205 by Eric Jausel, on Flickr

Here's a shot of where the tow hook is taking up the front spot where I need the radiator mount to be. I bought the metal to do the new mounts, using channel instead of box steel now, should be easier to work with.
Image20220114_214603 by Eric Jausel, on Flickr

And I picked up a couple tow hooks from Best Foreign Used Parts off 24. Got them both for $10. I found couplers at ACE for the one on the right, but I like the one on the left better, so I found some round couplers online from BelMetric. They're a little harder to find being M16x1.5. ACE only had M16x2. The one on the left is from a Subaru Impreza/Forester/BRZ, and the one on the right is from a Volvo XC90. I wanted to get one from a G35 but I couldn't find a used one and new they're about $70. No thanks.
Image20220122_100548 by Eric Jausel, on Flickr

I got the alternators tested the other day and they all came back good. I got the battery tested at three different auto parts stores and they all said it was good too. I almost still want another opinion lol. I started pulling the alternators apart yesterday but the rotors wouldn't come out of the rear shells, but I got them all disassembled today and ordered new brushes and a new bearing for the one I want to piece together. I ordered the parts from this link https://www.maniacelectricmotors.com/al19marx713.html.
Image20220123_151944 by Eric Jausel, on Flickr

Yesterday I cut the sides off the seats and I'll be taking them to get the upholstery done the end of this week. I cut these sides off for a couple reasons. Partly because they were a little tight on my ribs, but mostly because it was such a pain to get into and out of the seats with these sides. I've put my spine right into this thing more than once. The only problem is the seats are a little more flimsy now. I'm really going to have to look into adding bracing to the back, and I have an idea of how it can work.
Image20220122_145335 by Eric Jausel, on Flickr
Image20220122_152416 by Eric Jausel, on Flickr

I started by cutting a straight line, but I like the curve better.
Image20220122_145327 by Eric Jausel, on Flickr

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Re: Build thread

Postby speedjunkie » Mon Jan 24, 2022 9:14

I finally checked a box today that has been bugging me for a while, regarding the fan connectors.  Initially I just used zip ties and rigged them in a way to hold the connectors, but it didn't work very well over time and I like a more sure setup, even for little things like this.  It's all about the details.  I know the RX-8 shroud had the clip built in but I figured maybe there's a stock clip of some kind that might work, so I went to Mazda today and their parts department didn't help much.  I thought about going to some other dealerships but I figured they'd be even less willing to help since it's a Mazda.  I stopped at Autozone on the way home and found something that works pretty well.  I already modified it before this but I didn't change it too much. Cost $4 too, so that's nice.
Image20220124_154139 by Eric Jausel, on Flickr
Image20220124_154151 by Eric Jausel, on Flickr

I put it in sideways, but I had to file down the ends a little bit, and I also had to file down the top a little.  I also filed the middle of it and an edge on each side so it wouldn't be as difficult to remove from the connector later if I needed to, due to the little retaining nub on the connector (seen in the second pic here).  It still fits very tight in the groove though so it doesn't move freely.  
Image20220124_154215 by Eric Jausel, on Flickr
Image20220124_154233 by Eric Jausel, on Flickr

All mounted up, and they don't come down too far on the other side.  They're nice and snug.
Image20220124_155048 by Eric Jausel, on Flickr
Image20220124_155052 by Eric Jausel, on Flickr

After taking care of that, I test fit the radiator and figured out the angle to use without having the front too low but hopefully still get good airflow. It fits pretty well I think. I modified the rear mounts just to make sure it was going to be level and spaced evenly between the frame, I'm not sure whether I want to keep them after everything is mounted. I might keep them just because I'm planning on making ducting for this again. It's kinda hard to tell from these pics, but I think this is a winning setup.
Image20220124_222412 by Eric Jausel, on Flickr
Image20220124_222438 by Eric Jausel, on Flickr

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Re: Build thread

Postby speedjunkie » Sun Jan 30, 2022 9:14

I ordered 1/4" steel L brackets and channel to make the new radiator mounts, but it's WAY too heavy. They're over 3lbs each. The reason I went with that thickness was to mount the tow hook and know it would be strong enough, but I realized I didn't have to use that thickness for the entire mount. I picked up some 1/8" steel L bracket and channel from Home Depot and cut up the channel to make the rest of the mount but still used the 1/4" L bracket to mount to the car. I might change that to 1/8" too, but I'm worried it might be too thin.

This is all the 1/4" cut up, for one side. I could possibly trim off some excess to lighten it, but it's still excessive regardless.
Image20220129_141116 by Eric Jausel, on Flickr

This is all the 1/8" cut up, but still using the 1/4" L bracket, so it's not a crazy amount lighter. Again, I will probably trim off some excess, I just want to make sure it's not structurally critical.
Image20220129_150700 by Eric Jausel, on Flickr

The longest piece of 1/4".
Image20220129_145632 by Eric Jausel, on Flickr

This is the longest piece of 1/8". It's a little shorter than the 1/4" piece, but that's still a huge difference.
Image20220129_145642 by Eric Jausel, on Flickr

Blurry pic, but I'd really like to use the 1/8" L bracket if it won't sacrifice the strength needed for the tow hook.
Image20220129_155204 by Eric Jausel, on Flickr

This is basically what the bracket will be.
Image20220129_170654 by Eric Jausel, on Flickr

I'm planning on adding ducting this time too, with mesh on the front this time to protect the fins.

I got the rebuild parts for the alternator, but I'm going to get the shells blasted and clear coated or something before I rebuild it. I just want some way to make all this engine bay stuff easier to clean.

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Re: Build thread

Postby speedjunkie » Sat Feb 05, 2022 9:14

I picked up some 3/16" L bracket from Home Depot and cut them for the car. I think it's a good compromise. It's not crazy heavy like the 1/4" and doesn't look overkill either, but it's still beefy enough that it should work OK. I'm still going to use the 1/16" for the radiator brackets though.

I lost one of the rings for the wire on the bottom of the seats that links the two sliding rails so they function together, so I got some swages from ACE today that I think will work even better. I might crimp them down, but I think they'll function pretty well even if I don't.

Last night I was trying to figure out the torque on the knock sensors and I got the torque wrench stuck on the front housing's sensor and I broke the power steering reservoir while trying to get the wrench out, so I bought an RE-Amemiya aluminum tank from RHDJapan. https://www.rhdjapan.com/re-amemiya-pow ... -fd3s.html I've had my eye on one for several years because the stock plastic ones get nasty over time and I want one that won't break eventually, but I couldn't justify the cost for what basically just boils down to aesthetics. But now it's justified haha. And the cost isn't as bad as I expected. If I tried to have someone build one it would cost more than this.
Image20220205_190551 by Eric Jausel, on Flickr

I got a few things done today, felt pretty good, unlike last weekend when I spent the whole day cutting the radiator mounts and still ended up doing something else. I picked up stainless steel allen head bolts for the knock sensors because the ones Chris put in back in 2015 were black oxide and they had rust on them. Really not a big deal but it's the details lol. I still wasn't sure on the torque for them so I just went with 16 lb/ft for the time being. I think they were torqued between 16-20 lb/ft.

I've been thinking about putting studs back in for the LIM to UIM connection (the Ground Zero UIM didn't come with studs so I've been using bolts all these years), and the front most hole in the pic needed a helicoil since the threads were trashed, so I installed a helicoil and pulled the studs from an old stock LIM. Unfortunately part of the threads got into the engine through the fuel injector port that's open (I currently have my secondary rail pulled off so I can get it 3D scanned and start my rail project). So I might be removing the turbo so I can pull the LIM off and try to find that piece, or I'll risk it lol. It's not huge. I was thinking about removing the turbo (or possibly the whole engine) anyway to make hard lines for the turbo coolant and oil lines.
Image20220205_172719 by Eric Jausel, on Flickr

I wasn't crazy about the safety wire holding the LIM heat shield on, so I picked up some springs from ACE today too. I had to use multiple springs because anything that was even close to big enough was larger diameter than I wanted to use. I forgot that there is a lower one too so I'll go back and get more springs for that one.
Image20220205_174325 by Eric Jausel, on Flickr
Image20220205_180616 by Eric Jausel, on Flickr

I've been wanting to change the rubber bushings on the coil mount for a while, and at least a couple years ago I bought some new ones that are rated for higher temp, but they're a little too wide. IRP has a mount similar to mine now and they don't even use any kind of isolating bushings, so I might just delete them entirely. I do like having some vibration damping though. One of the old bushings is on the coil, I got those from ACE years ago.
Image20220205_190501 by Eric Jausel, on Flickr

I'd like to replace the o-rings on the fuel injector inserts and I got some from ACE that I believe are the right size, but I'm not sure what the specs are regarding heat, chemical compatibility, etc. I looked up Buna and it's good with chemicals and heat up to 250F, and it holds its shape over time being compressed. McMaster Carr has what I need but they only come in packs of 100 and that's kinda wasteful lol.

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Re: Build thread

Postby speedjunkie » Wed Feb 09, 2022 9:14

I'm probably going to forget everything I've done over the last three days because it's a lot, but here is what I can remember.

I got the other spring setup for the heat shield.
Image20220206_223544 by Eric Jausel, on Flickr

I replaced the oil temp and coolant temp sensors so they'll read correctly again. I was able to get some new Buna N o-rings for the oil filter pedestal, and the best part is they were free from Whisler Bearing lol. He gave me the o-rings for the fuel injector inserts too. For the coolant temp sensor, I had to drill out the BSP to NPT adapter so the sensor would fit. I hope it's still sturdy enough and doesn't break and start leaking, since I took out quite a bit of material. You can see here the comparison of how much I drilled out.
Image20220207_224839 by Eric Jausel, on Flickr

I tried to go only as deep as required for the sensor to fit far enough in, although the first few runs I ended up going all the way through by accident. But I think it turned out pretty well.
Image20220207_224823 by Eric Jausel, on Flickr
Image20220207_225210 by Eric Jausel, on Flickr

A comparison with the other sensors they sent me that don't read the same. The yellow one had no problem fitting into the adapter.
Image20220207_224929 by Eric Jausel, on Flickr

The battery tested good five different times at different auto parts stores, so I'm thinking maybe the battery tender is bad. I bought a new battery tender, and when I first tried to connect the cables, something was jammed in the positive terminal and wouldn't let me connect it. But I used a 1/16" drill bit to try to clear out as much as possible and I think it'll work OK now. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09J2 ... UTF8&psc=1
Image20220208_181751 by Eric Jausel, on Flickr

I replaced the rubber isolators on the coil mount with some that are higher temp rated, and replaced the labels since the ones I used before were not made for those conditions. I believe Xavier is back this weekend so I'm hoping to take the radiator brackets over for him to weld up for me. I cleaned up and inspected the spark plug wires, ohms tested them, and they look good still. I replaced the spark plugs, and they were in dire need of it haha. Definitely got my use out of those. There's still a list of to-dos and possible to-dos.

-replace the injector o-rings, possibly get the injectors cleaned again
-still trying to get the mirrors, fuel rail, and charcoal canister scanned
-get the alternator shells powder coated and rebuild the alternator
-make a bracket to mount the fuse box, and I need a new fuse box too. I might try to get a custom starter harness made while I'm at it
-possibly make a new intercooler and piping, or that one might wait
-replace the power steering reservoir, although the RE-A one needs to be fabricated I believe. I got an email saying it's back ordered with a date that they didn't provide lol
-clean or rebuild the replacement AC compressor and install. I believe I'm just going to take it somewhere and have them charge it with R134A, I'm tired of messing with it and going through compressors. But I need to fix the issues with the whole system first and I don't want to.
-possibly make the hard lines for the turbo oil and coolant, or I might wait on that too
-looking into trying to get a more shallow Bacon Racing oil pan, he said his guy could make one but I haven't heard back since
-possibly replace the battery terminals, they're looking a little worse for wear.
-redo the fuel system, again. Jason is supposed to be making an internal surge tank, and I'm thinking of switching to one fuel pump (probably the Hellcat pump) and a -8 or -10 all the way to the front going into the larger secondary fuel rail, but all this will probably wait until next winter.
-swap to k-type thermocouples for the air temp readings, they're MUCH faster than even the Triumph sensor I have now.
-diagnose the issues with the ECU or whatever is causing all my problems with the AC, water injection, and boost control. This is the biggest issue I have and the one I want to tackle least just because it's so daunting.

I've read things on the forum about wiring for the AEM smart coils, how they're each supposed to be grounded to the housing they're in, but my grounds are grouped together, so I need to ask Chris about that. I haven't noticed any issues so maybe it's OK, not sure. I also saw something about teflon lined fuel hoses needing to be conductive (the teflon lining will be black instead of white, and I'm pretty sure mine is white), because if it's not conductive it will start trying to wear through the hose, but these hoses have been on the car since 2015 so who knows.

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Re: Build thread

Postby speedjunkie » Mon Feb 14, 2022 9:14

Hulkman sent me a new battery tender the day after I gave them my address. SUPER service. I installed that yesterday. I put the battery back in too, and got it backwards the first time. Such a PITA to get in and out, ugh. I had to plastic weld a couple things on the rear quarter plastic too, came out pretty good though I think. I hope someday I can print new panels for the whole interior.

I finished cutting the metal for the new radiator mounts Saturday and took them to Brett that night so he could tack them for me. Had some trouble getting the tacks to hold lol. I got home and installed it to test fit the radiator, and one of the tacks broke as soon as I installed the radiator LOL. It still held though, just angled down a bit. Unfortunately the driver's side mount won't work the way it is, which I really don't understand because they're mirrored and they mount to the car in the exact same spot on each side, but for some reason the driver's side needs to move forward about .5" to an inch because the radiator is angled somehow and the end tank hits the cross bar.

My buddy at work told me about a kickstarter for a 3D scanner. https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/3d ... 7N0WGZx_68 It's the same brand as the printer I have and they've made scanners before, and they've already sent some of these scanners to people to test, and they're doing pretty well. I put about $400 on that, which is a much better deal than paying almost double that to get just a few things scanned and this way I can scan all the other stuff I want to also. The only one that might be a problem is the fuse box, since it has a lot of intricate details inside, and this one is accurate to .05" (about 50 microns) and the one the company in Denver uses is good to 20 microns. If it doesn't fall through, they're supposed to start shipping in April. That puts me getting the car back on the road no earlier than about May. I'll see if I can hold out that long lol. If not I'll just see if Collyn can scan the mirrors and maybe the fuse box at his work in Albuquerque. They have a very professional scanner too. The problem with the fuse box is it's on the harness that wraps around the front of the car, not the starter harness, I forgot about that. Major suck.

I might wait on redoing the intercooler and piping. Turbosource is making a variable turbine manifold that decreases turbo lag to where it spools as fast as the 7670 but pulls all the way through redline like the 8374. The only problem is it's not internal wastegate, so I would have to do a major redesign to the turbine manifold and I really like having the wastegate release into the downpipe instead of open, so that's going back to even more complexity. But it's also the best of both worlds, which is what I've been looking for. Ugh. I just feel like eventually someone will have an option that gives instant response and pulls all the way through redline and doesn't open dump. https://turbosource.com/products/turbos ... ne-housing

The power steering tank should be here in about a month. And a friend in TX is going to have Chris install a Syvecs in his car too, and he said he'd let me borrow his ECU to verify whether mine is bad. I'm not sure when I'll try to do this, maybe this summer. I just want to get all this stuff sorted out already.


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