Build thread

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speedjunkie
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Re: Build thread

Postby speedjunkie » Thu Nov 25, 2021 9:14

So the fuel pressure issue is confusing. When I start the car from cold, the fuel pressure will be normal. But if I stop the car and restart it warm, the fuel pressure drops down to around 27psi and slowly builds up to about 34psi. It will still rise with throttle, but it's lower than usual.

I did some work on the car today. I figured I'd start tearing into it since it will probably be too cold to drive it now. I removed the side mirrors again and pulled them apart so I can take all the Ganador pieces to get 3D scanned. I also removed the column covers to get them scanned, and I'm going to get the triangles on the inside and outside of the doors scanned, although I think there is already a file somewhere for those. I'm also going to get the RE-Amemiya sleek headlight buckets scanned because I have an idea for a cleaner mounting solution for those, and the charcoal canister so I can make one that can be opened and the charcoal swapped out, and the secondary fuel rail so I can enlarge the ID for the two extra injectors, and one of the relay boxes in the engine bay because the mount for mine broke.

This past Tuesday my alarm set itself and started going off with the passenger door open. Normally it would set itself with the door closed for about ten seconds, which I think was already wrong, but it wasn't so bad. CPU2 is known to fail after so many years, and the alarm is one of the things that goes through the CPU. I had bought a new CPU2 a couple years ago but I haven't installed it yet. I pulled the old one today in order to open it and check it out, and I noticed a broken wire to one of the connectors, and that broken wire goes to the passenger door. The last time I fixed some of the other wires on that connector I just used splices and I'm going to redo those too so they're soldered nice. And I broke the connector while removing it so I ordered a new one.

I only worked on it for a couple hours today and got quite a bit done. I guess it doesn't take near as long when you're tearing stuff apart vs putting it back together.

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speedjunkie
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Re: Build thread

Postby speedjunkie » Wed Dec 01, 2021 9:14

I got the connector for the CPU2 today and installed it tonight and fixed the funky wiring and broken wires. Initially I only noticed one broken wire, but I found another one tonight. One of them went to the passenger door lock switch, and the one I found today went to the door key cylinder switches.

Now I want to get the CPU checked out and make sure it's good before I reinstall it, because it's kind of a bitch to get in and out. And I want to see why my alarm is arming without the doors being locked. It could be due to a connector behind the driver's door panel I disconnected years ago to get rid of a draw on the battery, and disconnecting that disabled the passenger door unlocking with the driver's door. Either way, I'm going to do some digging.

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speedjunkie
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Re: Build thread

Postby speedjunkie » Sat Dec 04, 2021 9:14

I put in the new CPU2 today. I was looking to get the old one fixed and save the new one for a rainy day, but I didn't want to wait to see if it fixed my problems and I'll still get the old one fixed and save it. Now the alarm only arms if the door is locked from the inside. If I lock it with the key, it won't arm. Weird. But at least it's not arming with the door open and it's not arming with the door closed but unlocked.

I reconnected the connector on the driver's door that I disconnected years ago because I traced a draw on the system to that connector. I noticed some time after disconnecting it that the passenger door no longer unlocked when unlocking the driver's door, so I figured it was that. But it still didn't work after reconnecting it tonight, so I'm not sure if it's due to a bad part or what.

I also repaired the map pocket lid on the driver's door. It came off a couple months ago but I think it's fairly solid now. I added a bushing to one side of the lid, actually it's a little plastic vacuum hose coupler that I modified a little but it works great. I've been thinking about adding a little padding to the map lid because my elbow rests on it when I have my hands at 10 and 2.

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speedjunkie
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Re: Build thread

Postby speedjunkie » Thu Dec 09, 2021 9:14

After some troubleshooting I discovered that the problem with the unlocking problem is something between the connector where the door harness plugs in and the 3 way where that wire joins and splits off to CPU2 and the timer unit. That should be fun to work on lol.

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Re: Build thread

Postby speedjunkie » Mon Dec 20, 2021 9:14

I finally got around to troubleshooting the lock problem again yesterday. I wasn't excited about it because I thought I was going to have to remove the door or the fender, but I was able to get the connector poked through into the car. I had continuity from the connector to the 3-way, and since I'd already determined the door harness was good, that left me to inspecting the connectors themselves. They looked good, so I bent the pin upwards just a bit and it made contact and everything is working again. Well, I should say the door lock system is fully functional again, but now the windows aren't working for some reason. I'm pretty sure all the connectors are connected, maybe I'm missing something. The windows aren't currently installed, but I don't see why that would be an issue.

I also pulled the rotor pedals off the clutch and brake pedals to give myself just a tad more room for my legs, and I pulled the IC and intake pipe and started changing the angle of the radiator. I need a new radiator anyway since this one is seeping just like the last one. I'm really wondering if I need some kind of modular solution so I can just change out the core or something lol, since I go through them so often. I'm thinking about making an intake box also so I can get rid of the pipe, and I really want to change the IC and piping also, but I don't really have the money for doing all that at the moment.

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Re: Build thread

Postby speedjunkie » Wed Jan 05, 2022 9:14

I replaced the bearings in both the aftermarket idler pulleys, and I noticed the battery tender blinking even after it had been plugged in for several days, indicating that it's still charging. I thought maybe I have a draw on the system again. I know I have a bit of a draw, but for it to keep the battery from fully charging is strange. I figured maybe I didn't fix the issue with the door wiring since it put a draw on the system years ago, but it didn't add any to what there already was. With the battery disconnected I get a draw of about 25mA (even disconnected I still have the stereo memory, the USB ports in the center console, and the phone holder/charger still hooked up), and about 78mA with the battery connected, which is somewhat high but still not crazy and the battery is usually disconnected anyway. So maybe the battery is going bad. That would really suck. Or maybe it's the tender itself. It is kinda beat up.

I bought a new dual pass Koyo radiator, I'll take it to get modified for Vmount configuration once it comes in. I am going to change a few things with the mounting and inlet and outlet. The back will be dropped a little so the condenser isn't high enough to make contact with the air filter and so the back of the IC can drop a little more and I can make some mounting brackets for it, although I'm thinking of getting a slightly larger IC core and changing the end tanks and piping, and possibly shift it to the driver's side a little to make more room for the air filter. Anyway, the front of the radiator has to come up also so it isn't the lowest hanging part on the front of the car. And being that I've been going through radiators faster than I go through oil changes, I'm going to try to make it a little more modular so I don't have to get so much changed when I get a new one, and hopefully the new mounting solution will ease some of the wear on it. I'm planning to use the stock mounting points for the bottom/leading edge of it by finding my old stock brackets and cutting off the mounting portion and having those welded onto brackets that will bolt to the bottom of the car, and I think I'll either weld on or bolt on some brackets off those to mount the AC condenser to try to clean up the mounting a little. I'll have some mounts made for the rear too and use the stock brackets for those as well if I can find them again.

As for the idea of doing hard lines for the turbo coolant and oil supply, I'm kinda leaning against it now. After doing some research it seems some people with other cars have had issues with vibration cracking the lines over time if they're not supported by a clamp somewhere in between. I can't think of a place to put a clamp, although the coolant lines should be fairly short, at least one of them, so maybe it wouldn't be an issue. People suggested annealed seamless stainless steel tubing though if that project does move forward. I was planning on pulling the engine out this winter to tackle that, and possibly replace the oil pan with a shorter version if I could find one (it hangs lower than the subframe too), but I'm not sure I feel like doing that until I'm ready to get the car and engine bay painted, and I'd clean up the water injection pump mount at the same time. But paint and body work might be a year or two off yet.

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Re: Build thread

Postby speedjunkie » Sun Jan 09, 2022 9:14

The new radiator came in Friday, but after talking to Zico last night I decided to send it back and get a different brand. He had the same issue with his Koyo years ago, and I'm on about number 5 right now and most of them have had this issue, I'm tired of dealing with it. The problem now is finding a suitable replacement.

Today I pulled the radiator out and changed the mount for the boost solenoid to make it cleaner even though it's hidden by the intake piping lol.

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speedjunkie
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Re: Build thread

Postby speedjunkie » Wed Jan 12, 2022 9:14

Someone on 7club mentioned stray current in a radiator thread I started. So I guess I'll be looking into that right after I get the car running again.

FS119_-_Stray_current_corrosion_in_cooling_systems.pdf (ipswichradiators.com.au)

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Re: Build thread

Postby speedjunkie » Mon Jan 17, 2022 9:14

I've done so much searching for a radiator core so I can just swap the end tanks over, but all I've found so far is too expensive to make sense (PWR quoted $500+ and 18 weeks lead time for just the core) or people just aren't getting back to me. US Radiators responded but most of the reviews I read weren't favorable. Bell got back to me today but I haven't seen a quote yet. I decided to try one last Koyo and dropped off the one I already bought to Nick so he can modify it, he said it'll be finished tomorrow already. I'm not in a hurry though, I still have so many things I want to work on and I still need to design and get the new mounts for it made. The new mounts are also forcing my hand to get a different tow hook since the current one is in the way, so I plan on getting a threaded removable tow hook like newer models use and getting a coupler nut or something to weld to the radiator mount. I'm not crazy about having it attached to the radiator mount, but even if it pulled off it shouldn't damage the radiator. Although maybe there is a workaround where it's not even attached there.

I'd like to go ahead and do a new IC and piping while I'm at it but we'll have to see what funds look like.

I pulled the fuel rail and charcoal canister out this weekend so I can get them 3D scanned along with the mirrors and some other stuff. I contacted a couple companies in Denver and one said it would be $75 per part, the other company said $4500. Yikes lol. I'm guessing they don't want the business at the moment.

I had a feeling my alternator might be bad, and I noticed it's squeaking, so I took it to a rebuild shop that I've been to a couple times and they said they don't do rebuilds anymore and it's definitely bad, and most likely my battery is bad too. I have noticed that the tender is acting funny, so I assume the battery actually is bad. Ugh, more to buy. I'm not sure if I want to do another upgraded alternator or not, since I have added a few electronics. I don't think I really NEED one, but they're not much more expensive than some of the regular 100a alternators. As for batteries, I'm not sure if I want to swap to something else or keep the small Optima yellow top. More research I guess.


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