My new car!
- speedjunkie
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- chickenwafer
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- Location: Greeley
- speedjunkie
- Senior Member
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- chickenwafer
- Posts: 2515
- Joined: Wed Mar 11, 2009 9:14
- Location: Greeley
- chickenwafer
- Posts: 2515
- Joined: Wed Mar 11, 2009 9:14
- Location: Greeley
- speedjunkie
- Senior Member
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chickenwafer wrote:Shit why didn't I ever think of that? Of course I could get a new t4 turbine housing. I'll be looking right now for one. Thanks Eric!
I thought you were being sarcastic until your next post when you bought the new housing LOL.
VRx8 wrote:Lol over thinking is a biatch.. Eric saved the day lol
Yep. If there's anyone that can under-think, it's me!
LOL- chickenwafer
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New divided 1.15ar t4 vband turbine housing from Garrett arrived today. Looks great, fits, so everything is a go! I'll snap some pictures here in a few and post them up, then get the turbine housing bolted on and aligned up. Then I can get the oil drain on and some other little stuff done. Tomorrow the manifold/turbo/wg will all go in and hopefully the downpipe lines up.

- speedjunkie
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- chickenwafer
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So, got the turbo all bolted up on the manifold with the new turbine housing. Oil drain installed with plenty of RTV this time (last time I used a paper gasket and it leaked, horrible to fix with the turbo in the car). I also re-clocked the compressor housing and clocked the CHRA so the turbo oil feed/drain are straight up and down now, instead of the 10* angle I accidentally had it at before.
Matt come over to help me lower the 35lbs of turbo and manifold into the engine bay. Had to re-tap the rear rotor stud hole because when I was pulling out the bolt when I was removing the turbo it pulled some of the threads out of the aluminum housing. So Matt re-tapped it and we got it working after a bit.
Lined up the new manifold gaskets, bolted the turbo/manifold assembly in. Everything looked good. Then we struggled with the oil drain. I modified the old oil drain because of the CHRA being clocked at an angle, so now it would kink up when trying to install it with the CHRA level. Of course! Luckily I still had the old drain hose and fittings that came from the previous owner when I bought it. But this one uses braided -10AN SS hose and it's only 3" long, so it doesn't flex. Install was a PITA but we finally got it!
It was at this point, probably 3-4 hours into this whole operation, we noticed a gap between the manifold and the motor. I could easily slide a 0.003" feeler in-between them, meaning it would leak. OF COURSE!!! But why?
Turns out the new v-band Garrett turbine housing is slightly larger than the old turbine housing, which only had a few millimeters of clearance between the housing and the LIM in the first place. Now, the new turbine housing is hitting the LIM so badly the manifold can't be tightened all the way to the point where it won't leak. OF COURSE!!! Haha notice a theme? One thing after another, after another, after another, after probably another.
But wait, there's more! The v-band flange I have on my downpipe is a male flange, meaning it has a small inner diameter lip to "seat" on the receiving machined recess of the female flange. My new v-band turbine housing doesn't have any lip or recess, so OF COURSE (haha) the downpipe v-band won't seat against the new turbine v-band flange. So I used a portable band saw to cut the male lip port of the v-band off, I figured the flange itself would keep the band saw straight. Well, kinda. I ended up gouging just a little of the flange, but OF COURSE it's just enough to make it leak since I can see light through it when pushed against the other flange. So I need a new v-band flange on the downpipe...
Lastly, I also lost the stupid little wastegate valve seat my TiAL MVR 44mm w/g uses. It is basically sandwiched between the w/g and the manifold flange, and serves to seal around the valve of the w/g and line up the w/g on the manifold. Apparently when I removed the w/g off the manifold when I was pulling the turbo last week, I dropped or misplaced the valve seat. I scoured the garage and couldn't find it. It HAS to be in there, but I just can't find it. A replacement is only $30 bucks but it's just adding up...
So, to re-cap; new turbine housing contacts my LIM so the manifold won't seal against the housings; downpipe has incorrect v-band flange so I attempted to fix it and messed up the flange, so a new flange is required; lost valve seal ring for w/g.
I probably need a new manifold, or my current manifold extensively modified, which means basically everything I have currently for the turbo system won't fit correctly with the new position it would be sitting (oil feed, oil drain, downpipe, charge pipe) so I have to redo EVERYTHING basically.
Like I said, one thing after another, after another, after another, AFTER ANOTHER!!!!!! Can you tell this is wearing on me? LOL
So yeah, this is where I'm at. Probably won't touch/work/look at the car for a while.
Matt come over to help me lower the 35lbs of turbo and manifold into the engine bay. Had to re-tap the rear rotor stud hole because when I was pulling out the bolt when I was removing the turbo it pulled some of the threads out of the aluminum housing. So Matt re-tapped it and we got it working after a bit.
Lined up the new manifold gaskets, bolted the turbo/manifold assembly in. Everything looked good. Then we struggled with the oil drain. I modified the old oil drain because of the CHRA being clocked at an angle, so now it would kink up when trying to install it with the CHRA level. Of course! Luckily I still had the old drain hose and fittings that came from the previous owner when I bought it. But this one uses braided -10AN SS hose and it's only 3" long, so it doesn't flex. Install was a PITA but we finally got it!
It was at this point, probably 3-4 hours into this whole operation, we noticed a gap between the manifold and the motor. I could easily slide a 0.003" feeler in-between them, meaning it would leak. OF COURSE!!! But why?
Turns out the new v-band Garrett turbine housing is slightly larger than the old turbine housing, which only had a few millimeters of clearance between the housing and the LIM in the first place. Now, the new turbine housing is hitting the LIM so badly the manifold can't be tightened all the way to the point where it won't leak. OF COURSE!!! Haha notice a theme? One thing after another, after another, after another, after probably another.
But wait, there's more! The v-band flange I have on my downpipe is a male flange, meaning it has a small inner diameter lip to "seat" on the receiving machined recess of the female flange. My new v-band turbine housing doesn't have any lip or recess, so OF COURSE (haha) the downpipe v-band won't seat against the new turbine v-band flange. So I used a portable band saw to cut the male lip port of the v-band off, I figured the flange itself would keep the band saw straight. Well, kinda. I ended up gouging just a little of the flange, but OF COURSE it's just enough to make it leak since I can see light through it when pushed against the other flange. So I need a new v-band flange on the downpipe...
Lastly, I also lost the stupid little wastegate valve seat my TiAL MVR 44mm w/g uses. It is basically sandwiched between the w/g and the manifold flange, and serves to seal around the valve of the w/g and line up the w/g on the manifold. Apparently when I removed the w/g off the manifold when I was pulling the turbo last week, I dropped or misplaced the valve seat. I scoured the garage and couldn't find it. It HAS to be in there, but I just can't find it. A replacement is only $30 bucks but it's just adding up...
So, to re-cap; new turbine housing contacts my LIM so the manifold won't seal against the housings; downpipe has incorrect v-band flange so I attempted to fix it and messed up the flange, so a new flange is required; lost valve seal ring for w/g.
I probably need a new manifold, or my current manifold extensively modified, which means basically everything I have currently for the turbo system won't fit correctly with the new position it would be sitting (oil feed, oil drain, downpipe, charge pipe) so I have to redo EVERYTHING basically.
Like I said, one thing after another, after another, after another, AFTER ANOTHER!!!!!! Can you tell this is wearing on me? LOL
So yeah, this is where I'm at. Probably won't touch/work/look at the car for a while.

- speedjunkie
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A couple ideas...
Get a spacer made at a water jet shop (we have one here, I could have it made for you) to space out the manifold, putting gaskets on each side of the spacer.
or...
Cut off the manifold flange and have a thicker one made and welded on.
It would be cheaper to do the spacer, but not as clean.
Get a spacer made at a water jet shop (we have one here, I could have it made for you) to space out the manifold, putting gaskets on each side of the spacer.
or...
Cut off the manifold flange and have a thicker one made and welded on.
It would be cheaper to do the spacer, but not as clean.
- chickenwafer
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- Joined: Wed Mar 11, 2009 9:14
- Location: Greeley
speedjunkie wrote:A couple ideas...
Get a spacer made at a water jet shop (we have one here, I could have it made for you) to space out the manifold, putting gaskets on each side of the spacer.
or...
Cut off the manifold flange and have a thicker one made and welded on.
It would be cheaper to do the spacer, but not as clean.
Can't space the manifold any from the engine, the turbo will then hit the frame (I have about 4-5mm of gap right now). I'm also not thrilled with the idea of more failure/leak points, but hey, at this point I just want to drive this pig!
I'm already running an extra divided t4 flange as a spacer on the manifold, because without that, even the old turbo hit the LIM. So I might be able to space the turbo up just a hair more (around a quarter inch) and that may work. I'll have to test fit it to be sure.
The only thing I'm worried with spacing the turbo up more is my charge piping off the compressor outlet. It's essentially a u turn into the v mount intercooler, and it's nearly as close to the hood as it can be without hitting it as it sits. I'm just worried spacing it will cause the charge piping to contact the underside of the hood.
I might see how much my welder will charge to move the current turbine inlet flange forward and inch and up an inch, and that should do the trick. Problem is I don't think the downpipe will the fit because it's short as it is and a tight fit. But I'd probably only need it extended about an inch or so, and I need a new v band flange welded on anyways.
Thanks for the ideas, I know I can get it fixed and working. Is just aggravating because I was legitimately planning on driving the car this weekend and enjoying it, and here I am, not enjoying it and potentially spending a bunch more money on it.

- speedjunkie
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- yoojeankim
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Get this car up and running soon!!!! Winter will be here before you know it...... And give me a call sometime, I want to get my hands dirty working on a rotary. I'm free labor!
[font="Century Gothic"]APR 4 Program Tune - AEM CAI - Vogtland Suspension
JVC KW-NX7000bt HU - eD 6500 Front Comps - cDT EF-61's Rear fill -IDMAX 10" sub-
JL 1000/1 - JL 450/4 [/font]
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JVC KW-NX7000bt HU - eD 6500 Front Comps - cDT EF-61's Rear fill -IDMAX 10" sub-
JL 1000/1 - JL 450/4 [/font]
Past:
Current:

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