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speedjunkie · Postby **speedjunkie** » Thu Sep 25, 2014 9:14

All I've done with the car tonight is try to get my laptop to link up with my ECU, and after talking to Elliot White at Turblown, I got it with his help. I told him I haven't been able to start the car and he said he has a fuel map he posted on the Adaptronic forum that should help me get it started, but I haven't been able to find it yet. I was also able to register on the Adaptronic forum after not being able to last year.

I still haven't decided what to do with the oil pan situation. I'm stalling lol.

$crillaTor · Postby **$crillaTor** » Thu Sep 25, 2014 9:14

Rtv!!

Postby **RX-7 Chris** » Fri Sep 26, 2014 9:14

Just make sure if you use rtv, to clean it really good and get all the oil off. let it dry for 24hrs before you put oil back in the motor.

lOOkatme · Postby **lOOkatme** » Fri Sep 26, 2014 9:14

I would figure out why it is leaking. Where exactly is it leaking from?

Mine seems to be doing well, but I cleaned the hell out of mine, and I also stake/punched the pan and block for better adhesion. I applied a liberal amount and somewhat tightened everything down, then went back and did a final tighten.

$crillaTor · Postby **$crillaTor** » Fri Sep 26, 2014 9:14

Obviously, the right way to do it is to pull the engine and fix the root problem instead of using RTV... However, at this point would it really hurt to put a patch on it and get the other problems worked out, get your car running correctly and THEN pull the engine again to fix the oil issue? I dunno.

speedjunkie · Postby **speedjunkie** » Fri Sep 26, 2014 9:14

RX-7 Chris wrote:Just make sure if you use rtv, to clean it really good and get all the oil off. let it dry for 24hrs before you put oil back in the motor.

Yeah I think that's why I've been stalling too. I know deep down that doing it the shortcut way I'll never get all the oil off first, so that's telling me I need to pull the engine or at least remove the pan with the engine still in the car, which is something I'm strongly considering at this point.

lOOkatme wrote:I would figure out why it is leaking. Where exactly is it leaking from?

Mine seems to be doing well, but I cleaned the hell out of mine, and I also stake/punched the pan and block for better adhesion. I applied a liberal amount and somewhat tightened everything down, then went back and did a final tighten.

That's what I'm trying to figure out. If the oil leaking is black that would indicate it's used oil, and the oil I have in the engine is brand new and clean, so I would think this is coming from somewhere else. However, the question still remains, why is it being pushed out during cranking? That would indicate that it's coming from the pan I would think. And if my oil level is dropping is it due to this or are the oil cooler lines still filling? And where is the oil coming from if it's not coming from the pan?

$crillaTor wrote:Obviously, the right way to do it is to pull the engine and fix the root problem instead of using RTV... However, at this point would it really hurt to put a patch on it and get the other problems worked out, get your car running correctly and THEN pull the engine again to fix the oil issue? I dunno.

Well I'll be using RTV to fix the problem regardless lol. If I pull the pan, I think I'll leave the gasket out this time and use just the gray Right Stuff RTV like most people do, and it seems to work for most. I agree with trying a patch first, but it'll take me at least a couple days to see if the patch even works enough to get the car back on the road and all that. In that time I may as well just do it the right way the first time. I just don't feel like it lol.

JTurton7 · Postby **JTurton7** » Fri Sep 26, 2014 9:14

need any help? I wanted to do a 7 cruise tonight

lOOkatme · Postby **lOOkatme** » Fri Sep 26, 2014 9:14

JTurton7 wrote:need any help? I wanted to do a 7 cruise tonight

I am game to go over to eric's.

speedjunkie · Postby **speedjunkie** » Sun Sep 28, 2014 9:14

I need LOT'S of help, lol. Especially if you know the fuel system wiring pretty well.

I'll talk about the good, and then I'll get into all the bad lol.

Andy came over last night and we started trying to get the car started by messing with the tune. If I didn't post it already, I called Elliot at Turblown/Turbosource and he helped me get the new laptop get the newest version of software and to get it talking to the ECU. While doing all that, I got under the car to check the oil leak, only to finally realize it's not an oil leak. It's fuel. We're pretty sure it's leaking out the hole in the manifold and running down. And I should have realized this because it moves very quickly and isn't very viscous. Also, I could have just smelled it lol. So at least I don't have to worry about that.

Now, on to the bad. The no fuel pressure problem is back. Andy and I troubleshot that for quite a while last night only to end up confused. Basically, the problem points to the green circuit opening relay, but it can't be that. For some reason it's not closing, but we tried three different known good ones and they all didn't work. I need an electrical engineer to figure this one out.

And, because of the fuel problem coming back, I have another problem...a shattered windshield! These things break so easy!

FDEEZ · Postby **FDEEZ** » Sun Sep 28, 2014 9:14

I would come over but my parents are in town. Maybe I can help remotely.

Few things:
1. Are your FP relays triggered by a 12v signal or by a ground? That would determine which wires goes to your computer.
2. Can you post a pic of your adaptronics wiring schematic...especially the portion that shows how it provides a signal to the FP relays.
3. Can you post a pic on how you routed your fuel lines from where it leaves your stock lines to the fuel rail.
4. Can you cap (-an plug) off the fuel line before it gets to the fuel rail and see if it pressurizes? It's unlikely, but it's possible your injectors may be stuck open or you have a bad seal somewhere near your rail.
4a...better yet, can you cap off your FPR (line to rail) and then try pressuring...you may have another leak earlier in the system.

speedjunkie · Postby **speedjunkie** » Sun Sep 28, 2014 9:14

I believe the relays are triggered by 12v. If you're talking about the ones I put in this time. If you're talking about stock, I'm not sure.

I don't have an Adaptronic schematic. You're talking about of the internals or the wiring that hooks up to it? It's a PnP so it's the stock wiring.

I have a pic of the fuel lines from the hardlines to the fuel rail somewhere in the last few pages. They come off the hardlines separate, tee together into a 8AN and go into the secondary fuel rail.

My pumps aren't even coming on, they're not getting power.

FDEEZ · Postby **FDEEZ** » Sun Sep 28, 2014 9:14

Ok...didn't know it was a piggy-backed system on stock wiring. Thought it was mostly standalone.

Now I think the problem may be the fuel pump resistor. Have you tried bypassing it so you get a constant 12v to the relays? You can either troubleshoot the resistor or completely bypass it (if I remember correctly).

speedjunkie · Postby **speedjunkie** » Mon Sep 29, 2014 9:14

It is a standalone, it just plugs into the stock wiring.

The resistor is after the relays, so I don't think it's that. The resistor isn't getting power to it.

speedjunkie · Postby **speedjunkie** » Tue Sep 30, 2014 9:14

I got the new ignition switch today. I ordered it from Amazon last Friday and it said it was Beck Arnley but it's in Mazda packaging, so I have high hopes. We'll see if this fixes anything.

$crillaTor · Postby **$crillaTor** » Tue Sep 30, 2014 9:14

I've got my fingers crossed for you man!

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