New FD in Town!

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chickenwafer
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Postby chickenwafer » Thu Aug 18, 2011 9:14

Yeah I wasn't saying it was a problem, just curious what it was since it looked different, that's all.

Getting the kit from Atkins, best pricing I've seen thus far.
:eek:

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VRx8
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Postby VRx8 » Thu Aug 18, 2011 9:14

Don't get it from RA there so called master kit doesn't include any gaskets. I paid 950 bucks for pretty much orings lol sucks

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chickenwafer
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Postby chickenwafer » Thu Aug 18, 2011 9:14

^Really? That blows. I was thinking of going with the RA Classic 2mm seals but for the cost difference I think I will just stick with the Atkins seals, I've heard good stuff about them.
:eek:

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speedjunkie
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Postby speedjunkie » Fri Aug 19, 2011 9:14

Looks good Eduardo!

I got the Atkins kit back in 08 when I did mine, mainly because the RA kit looked incomplete haha. I never had problems with any of the Atkins seals, even though some say they don't like the apex seals, but they definitely have the best deal for all the actual entire kit that I'd ever seen.
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VRx8
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Postby VRx8 » Sun Aug 21, 2011 9:14

Made a couple fuel lines today looks pretty nice.
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I can't figure out where tu put the FPR, tried the usual spot on the UIM but the fuel rails wont let me. Any ideas?
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chickenwafer
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Postby chickenwafer » Sun Aug 21, 2011 9:14

Looks good man!

If the FRP doesn't fit on the UIM like most have it, I would put it on the firewall somewhere.
:eek:

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VRx8
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Postby VRx8 » Sun Aug 21, 2011 9:14

I was thinking about that but i want to be able to see the fuel pressure gauge

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chickenwafer
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Postby chickenwafer » Mon Aug 22, 2011 9:14

On the firewall you should still be able to see it...except you can't see it with the hood closed and driving so I would recommend a cabin-mounted fuel pressure gauge for sure as well. The gauge on the FPR is only really useful for setting base fuel pressure.
:eek:

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VRx8
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Postby VRx8 » Thu Aug 25, 2011 9:14

I ordered the bracket from CJ Motorsport to see if I can get it to work. On the other hand got the end play straight at .0015. Flywheel and front cover are on and torqued, now i just need to put the oil pan and oil pan brace. The oil pan has like 2 inches of old silicone lol, Im going to have a hard time getting that off.

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chickenwafer
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Postby chickenwafer » Thu Aug 25, 2011 9:14

Just use a razor blade, it should come right off, or a putty knife. Or, do what I'm doing and just order a new OEM pan; it's only $130 bucks LOL
:eek:

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speedjunkie
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Postby speedjunkie » Thu Aug 25, 2011 9:14

When Rich was building my engine he was saying you pretty much HAVE to get a new oil pan for it to seal properly, but I can't see that it would last that long if it's that flimsy, even a new one haha. My old pan was pretty banged up anyway though.
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VRx8
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Postby VRx8 » Fri Aug 26, 2011 9:14

speedjunkie wrote:When Rich was building my engine he was saying you pretty much HAVE to get a new oil pan for it to seal properly, but I can't see that it would last that long if it's that flimsy, even a new one haha. My old pan was pretty banged up anyway though.


I think the pan brace will help.

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chickenwafer
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Postby chickenwafer » Fri Aug 26, 2011 9:14

Yeah, mine is banged up, so I'm just replacing it. It's cheap anyways.
:eek:

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VRx8
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Postby VRx8 » Fri Aug 26, 2011 9:14

The oil pan wasn't that bad, i used goof off to soften the silicone, scraper and a Dremel with a small wire brush for the pan groves. Here is a pic
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Short Block is done !!!!!!!!!!!
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speedjunkie
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Postby speedjunkie » Fri Aug 26, 2011 9:14

Yeah I'm using an oil pan brace on mine also. Engine looks good Eduardo! Coming to the meet tonight? I leave in a couple weeks haha.
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