Its cool junkie. I'm getting more comfortable with naturally aspirated engines...at least knowing the different parts and kind of what they do. Feel much more comfortable with brakes after doing all of mine (and having Pat help me finish up the SS line install and brake bleed?
Did the rear shocks, put on the lowering springs. SO feel comfortable with that part of the suspension. Going to do rear and front sways. rear, not a problem, front is daunting.
That wiring (convoluted tubing) you are going to help me with though, scares the crap out of me.
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speedjunkie
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speedjunkie wrote:Haha, well at least you have a handle on the rest of the car already haha. That reminds me, are you free this Saturday morning/early afternoon? I think I'm going to head to Denver on Saturday and Loveland on Sunday.
Depends on definitions of time, but I'll be home starting around 12:30p on Saturday. Sunday, should be around all day.
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speedjunkie
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chickenwafer
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speedjunkie
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speedjunkie
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After doing some research, I've come to the conclusion that the turbo will be fine mounted in this configuration. So, now on to fixing the bolt hole for the manifold to engine. I'll try a longer bolt first, but I may install a helicoil. Not sure yet.
Spa mailed out the new sensor. I'm going to mount it in it's current location. If it doesn't work, I'm going to get an adapter fitting and mount it in the stock location, or maybe just drill and tap a hole somewhere else on the engine. Not sure yet. If I put it in the stock location that would make my stock gauge useless. Well, it's pretty much useless as it is, but at least I'd have another gauge to monitor temps and see if the car overheated if my Spa gauge fails for some reason. Also, I'm not sure if the car will go nuts if I unplug the stock sensor. I'll figure it out though.
Gotta get some fire sleeve for the coolant and vacuum lines that will be near the turbo. Frank is looking at buying a bulk of it and I'll go in on it with him if he does that. Otherwise I'll probably get the stuff from DEI like Dave did.
In the meantime I'm also going to look into sending my old housings off to NRS for rechroming, ready for my next engine build haha.
I also still have to find and/or rig up some dump tubes for the wastegates. One 45 degree and one 90 degree should do it, but they need the v-band flange on them and they are $65 on ebay...I don't think so.
Now, for the biggest part of what I'm thinking about doing...for the water cooling on the WG, instead of doing -6 line, I'm thinking of pulling the nipples out of the back of the engine and water pump (where the lines will be plugged in), drill and tap the holes and install some -4AN fittings. For one, I'm afraid that -6 hose will not fit tight enough around the nipples. Also, this will be cleaner lol. My only concern is drilling and tapping the hole on the rear iron with coolant still in the engine and then the system carries that to the radiator, water pump, etc and damages something. If I can magnetize the drill and tap I could minimize the mess though haha. I've even been thinking about making the turbo coolant lines have AN ends as well lol.
Oh, I'm pretty sure I'm going to use AN lines and fittings on the vacuum hoses near the turbo too, so going from the front of the turbo to the boost control solenoid, wastegates, etc. I've already ordered some of the fittings.
I also bought the new intercooler today for that project. It's an old style GReddy 3-row FMIC for an FD. It's a tube and fin and I got it for $300 from a guy on Facebook. I'm going to pressure test it in a bin of water when I get it, just to make sure I'm not going to run into any problems with it.
I still have to get the water injection bung welded onto the IC piping as well. I have an aftermarket power steering fluid cooler to install, and that is going next to the new IC, and I'm putting the air filter on the end of a 3.5" pipe and next to the IC as well for cold air. So I still have to buy an air filter and a coupler for the pipe to turbo as well. And although I don't NEED to duct the IC/rad and oil coolers, I'm going to do that too. And also make new mounts for the radiator (probably weld some on) and obviously make some mounts for the new IC, along with probably putting that crossmember back in behind all that so the IC can rest on it (but the rad has to move forward to install that piece again).
I still want to do an under tray and brake ducting but that will probably be after DGRR, and after WHiV if I go there too.
Oh, and I got some of the gold foil heat shield stuff, mostly to cover up all the paint chips that occurred during the manifold fabrication LOL. I'm putting it on the side firewall and on the LIM also. Possibly even on the inside of the LIM and bottom of the UIM as well. I got 3' of it, so it's 3' and 2' wide...ran about $90 lol. Ridiculous.
Holy crap, I still have a lot to do. And I know I just forgot some stuff lol.
Spa mailed out the new sensor. I'm going to mount it in it's current location. If it doesn't work, I'm going to get an adapter fitting and mount it in the stock location, or maybe just drill and tap a hole somewhere else on the engine. Not sure yet. If I put it in the stock location that would make my stock gauge useless. Well, it's pretty much useless as it is, but at least I'd have another gauge to monitor temps and see if the car overheated if my Spa gauge fails for some reason. Also, I'm not sure if the car will go nuts if I unplug the stock sensor. I'll figure it out though.
Gotta get some fire sleeve for the coolant and vacuum lines that will be near the turbo. Frank is looking at buying a bulk of it and I'll go in on it with him if he does that. Otherwise I'll probably get the stuff from DEI like Dave did.
In the meantime I'm also going to look into sending my old housings off to NRS for rechroming, ready for my next engine build haha.
I also still have to find and/or rig up some dump tubes for the wastegates. One 45 degree and one 90 degree should do it, but they need the v-band flange on them and they are $65 on ebay...I don't think so.
Now, for the biggest part of what I'm thinking about doing...for the water cooling on the WG, instead of doing -6 line, I'm thinking of pulling the nipples out of the back of the engine and water pump (where the lines will be plugged in), drill and tap the holes and install some -4AN fittings. For one, I'm afraid that -6 hose will not fit tight enough around the nipples. Also, this will be cleaner lol. My only concern is drilling and tapping the hole on the rear iron with coolant still in the engine and then the system carries that to the radiator, water pump, etc and damages something. If I can magnetize the drill and tap I could minimize the mess though haha. I've even been thinking about making the turbo coolant lines have AN ends as well lol.
Oh, I'm pretty sure I'm going to use AN lines and fittings on the vacuum hoses near the turbo too, so going from the front of the turbo to the boost control solenoid, wastegates, etc. I've already ordered some of the fittings.
I also bought the new intercooler today for that project. It's an old style GReddy 3-row FMIC for an FD. It's a tube and fin and I got it for $300 from a guy on Facebook. I'm going to pressure test it in a bin of water when I get it, just to make sure I'm not going to run into any problems with it.
I still have to get the water injection bung welded onto the IC piping as well. I have an aftermarket power steering fluid cooler to install, and that is going next to the new IC, and I'm putting the air filter on the end of a 3.5" pipe and next to the IC as well for cold air. So I still have to buy an air filter and a coupler for the pipe to turbo as well. And although I don't NEED to duct the IC/rad and oil coolers, I'm going to do that too. And also make new mounts for the radiator (probably weld some on) and obviously make some mounts for the new IC, along with probably putting that crossmember back in behind all that so the IC can rest on it (but the rad has to move forward to install that piece again).
I still want to do an under tray and brake ducting but that will probably be after DGRR, and after WHiV if I go there too.
Oh, and I got some of the gold foil heat shield stuff, mostly to cover up all the paint chips that occurred during the manifold fabrication LOL. I'm putting it on the side firewall and on the LIM also. Possibly even on the inside of the LIM and bottom of the UIM as well. I got 3' of it, so it's 3' and 2' wide...ran about $90 lol. Ridiculous.
Holy crap, I still have a lot to do. And I know I just forgot some stuff lol.
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chickenwafer
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6AN hose will fit on the 3/8" nipples just fine, just make sure to use a good hose clamp. I've tested it on my engine. Of course you can drill them out or remove them, I just think it's more work than it's worth haha.
You can use a drill with coolant, just coat the bit in grease to the grease will catch most of the metal shavings. It wouldn't hurt to do a good coolant flush afterwards, though.
You can use a drill with coolant, just coat the bit in grease to the grease will catch most of the metal shavings. It wouldn't hurt to do a good coolant flush afterwards, though.
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speedjunkie
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chickenwafer wrote:6AN hose will fit on the 3/8" nipples just fine, just make sure to use a good hose clamp. I've tested it on my engine. Of course you can drill them out or remove them, I just think it's more work than it's worth haha.
You can use a drill with coolant, just coat the bit in grease to the grease will catch most of the metal shavings. It wouldn't hurt to do a good coolant flush afterwards, though.
Oooh that's a good idea, grease on the drill bit. I hadn't thought of that. I figured it would probably work with the hose on the nipple, but this is the anal side of me coming out lol. Also, this way I won't have to step down/up between -6 and -4. My only real fear now is something going wrong with the one on the engine and having to pull the engine and rebuild lol.
Shadowden wrote:Robin boxing out Batman as he drains a 3, though they appear to playing on seperate baskets...The Boy Wonder never ceases to amaze.
LOL. It's been a good game.
Shadowden wrote:Where are you getting all of your -an fittings from?
I get mine from all over haha. Some local places and some online, depending on who has what. But Dave has gotten most of his on eBay.
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speedjunkie
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speedjunkie
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So, I figured out the problem with the lower rear bolt hole on the engine, where the manifold bolts on. To refresh memories, I couldn't get the bolt to tighten down all the way. Those bolts are M10x1.5 by the way.
When I was leaving the shop Monday night, we couldn't find one of the bolts for the T4 flange. We looked all over for it. Those bolts are 3/8"x16.
One guess where I found the fourth 3/8"x16 bolt tonight.
Yep.
Screwed that bitch into the M10x1.5 hole and stripped the threads. So in reality we weren't missing a T4 flange bolt, we were missing an exhaust manifold bolt. FUUUUUUUU!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
In other news, my wheels finally came in. I'm not crazy about them, but they're actually growing on me already. A couple problems though...for one, the lips were supposed to be either chrome or super black chrome. They are the same color as the faces, just glossy. The other problem is that the faces on at least two of the wheels (one front and one rear) are different shades, the front one is darker than the rear. I've only looked at two of the wheels so far, but I talked to Brent already and he said he would send me a shipping label and I could send them back to be fixed the way I want. I put one of the rear wheels up next to the rear wheels on the car and I think it might actually look pretty good. Maybe I'll hang onto these after all lol. I attached the only pic I have so far, the rear wheel.
When I was leaving the shop Monday night, we couldn't find one of the bolts for the T4 flange. We looked all over for it. Those bolts are 3/8"x16.
One guess where I found the fourth 3/8"x16 bolt tonight.
Yep.
Screwed that bitch into the M10x1.5 hole and stripped the threads. So in reality we weren't missing a T4 flange bolt, we were missing an exhaust manifold bolt. FUUUUUUUU!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
In other news, my wheels finally came in. I'm not crazy about them, but they're actually growing on me already. A couple problems though...for one, the lips were supposed to be either chrome or super black chrome. They are the same color as the faces, just glossy. The other problem is that the faces on at least two of the wheels (one front and one rear) are different shades, the front one is darker than the rear. I've only looked at two of the wheels so far, but I talked to Brent already and he said he would send me a shipping label and I could send them back to be fixed the way I want. I put one of the rear wheels up next to the rear wheels on the car and I think it might actually look pretty good. Maybe I'll hang onto these after all lol. I attached the only pic I have so far, the rear wheel.
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chickenwafer
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Metric vs SAE, SAE wins!!!! Shit man that sucks...helicoil?
On the wheels...they don't have look half as bad as I was anticipating haha. Almost like a WORK Miester evil twin. That's BS the rims aren't even finished like they're supposed to be. At least Brent is taking care of you. I know you don't want to hear it, but I'll only say it because I KNOW you're thinking it: those wheel would look killer with a concave face!
On the wheels...they don't have look half as bad as I was anticipating haha. Almost like a WORK Miester evil twin. That's BS the rims aren't even finished like they're supposed to be. At least Brent is taking care of you. I know you don't want to hear it, but I'll only say it because I KNOW you're thinking it: those wheel would look killer with a concave face!
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