My new car!

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chickenwafer
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Postby chickenwafer » Thu Dec 09, 2010 9:14

Finally got the missing couplers required for an install finished up the Pettit Charge Cool II SMIC install.

Overall a very easy install, if you have all the required parts it should only take you about 2 hours max, if you know how to get the stock failcooler out quickly. I didn't so it took me a little longer.

Went on a test drive after wrapping up the install. I cruised for a few miles to make sure everything was good, then got on it. Did a 3rd gear pull, the primary ran up to about 8psi (normally hits 10) then at 4500rpm the secondary hit, but not nearly as hard as before, boost only rose to about 10-11psi. The BANG! No boost. I clutched in the engine settled back to a smooth idle so I knew the motor wasn't toast. Plus, I was running 11:1 AFR and spraying roughly 380cc/min of water/meth according to the AEM flow gauge, so I didn't think it was blown.

I got the car back home, with no boost, so I know how slow the FD would feel if it was NA haha. Popped the hood and the top pipe coupler had popped off...I slid the coupler too far onto the intercooler side pipe, so there was literally only .75" of coupler on the top pipe going to the TB elbow. Opps. It was a bitch to get it back on properly, the pipe is just a little too long so there isn't much of a gap. Now it's late and dark so I'll test drive it again tomorrow.

Picture:

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:eek:

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RX-7 Chris
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Postby RX-7 Chris » Thu Dec 09, 2010 9:14

you could always trim the pipe a little bit.
1984 RX-7 GSL-SE [size=84]My restomod project[/SIZE]


1964 Ford Galaxie 500XL flat black w/ white interior, 2 dr fastback, 390 thunderbird, C6 auto, 2500 rpm high stall converter, shift kit, AC, Holley 750 cfm

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erod550
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Postby erod550 » Thu Dec 09, 2010 9:14

At least it was an obvious and easy fix.
2015 Ironman Silver Veloster Turbo - Bone stock and staying that way
1990 Crystal White Miata - Beater - Bignose 1.6L Swap, Robbins Top w/Glass Window, E-Codes, Air Horns, Brembo Rotors

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chickenwafer
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Postby chickenwafer » Thu Dec 09, 2010 9:14

RX-7 Chris wrote:you could always trim the pipe a little bit.


My hacksaw is broken so the only cutting tool I have is my air-powered cut-off wheel but it's too easy to cut the pipe not straight, for me at least haha.

Plus, the pipe is beaded, so if I cut it I will loose the beading (or have to get it re-beaded). It works now, just difficult and time consuming to install.
:eek:

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erod550
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Postby erod550 » Thu Dec 09, 2010 9:14

That's like the hotside of my TMIC. The pipe is at a weird angle so the coupler doesn't fit well and takes some finagling to get it on there, but it works.
2015 Ironman Silver Veloster Turbo - Bone stock and staying that way

1990 Crystal White Miata - Beater - Bignose 1.6L Swap, Robbins Top w/Glass Window, E-Codes, Air Horns, Brembo Rotors



Former Rides:

2011 Kona Blue Mustang GT 5.0

2009 True Red Mazdaspeed3 GT

2005 Flame Red SRT-4

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Dange
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Postby Dange » Thu Dec 09, 2010 9:14

same thing happened to me the day i installed my injectors... didnt tighten down a clamp, and my pipe going to the throttleboddy blew off under full boost, and made a hell of a whistle nose and then revlimit was at like 4k. as soon as i pulled over and let off the car sputtered and died. (maf reading no airflow)
Scared me half to death. i thought it blew up
04MSMGT

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chickenwafer
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Postby chickenwafer » Sat Dec 11, 2010 9:14

Alright, finally took the FD out for a spin today after fixing the charge pipe a few days ago (been busy).

And holy sh!t! I don't know if it was the 33*F ambient air temps, the new intercooler, or what, but the car was absolutely BRUTAL. The primary turbo is now spooling real quick, seeing a solid 10psi from 2800rpm to switchover at 4500rpm, then BAM! 13psi off the bat from the secondary. High rpm in 3rd gear is seeing 14-15psi off the secondary, I hit fuel cut again today, but not as early. The extra volume of the intercooler and 2.75" piping it has to pressurize is dropping me a net 1psi or so, but the trade off is a much denser charge, so worth it!

I was also excepting spool to hurt a little, but nope, if anything I think the primary spooled quicker. Not sure how, maybe I had a leak before? The couplers and hoses were original to the car when it was manufactured back in late 1992.

Took it out on a stretch of road I normal do my "test-n-tune" and the car is currently too quick for the winding road, I need to find a new one haha. I had wheelspin in 1st gear and 2nd gear when the secondary hits! Pretty crazy, I'm more than happy with the car right now.

Now I just need the PowerFC so I can get some more fuel in there and avoid hitting fuel cut. I probably should get a manual (or electronic if I want to shell out the cash) boost controller so I can start controlling boost better as well. But man, the car is brutally quick now! Love it!


Oh and Eric, I didn't forget about ya bud, I'm gonna look at your Datalogit map today or tomorrow. Feel free to text me to remind me :)
:eek:

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chickenwafer
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Postby chickenwafer » Wed Dec 15, 2010 9:14

After watching the Revolution FD time attach video over and over again I was thinking about sequential transmissions...so I started doing some research.

I stumbled across this: http://www.nengun.com/ikeya-formula/sequential-shifter

It's an Ikeya Forumla sequential shifter...basically it replaces the factory shifter with a complete sequential shifter mechanism, it basically turns the transmission into a true sequential transmission! It works like how a motorcycle transmission works- with a rotating drum that moves through the gears.

This thing is truly awesome, but it does cost $1600 bucks haha. If it was under $1000 I would be buying it right now, no joke. I am considering it tho, it's pretty awesome.

Here's a video in action, the shifter sits pretty high but I'm sure I could modify it:

[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YaqDNXEIzhU"]YouTube - Ikeya Formula Shifter for Mazda RX7 FD3S[/ame]
:eek:

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erod550
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Postby erod550 » Wed Dec 15, 2010 9:14

I wouldn't want a sequential gearbox, especially in a street car. I skip gears all the time. Take off hard through first and 2nd, then back off and go straight to 4th or 5th. Or slowing down and deciding to take a turn fast, downshift from 5th or 4th to 2nd. I like being able to pick a specific gear without having to go through the others first.
2015 Ironman Silver Veloster Turbo - Bone stock and staying that way

1990 Crystal White Miata - Beater - Bignose 1.6L Swap, Robbins Top w/Glass Window, E-Codes, Air Horns, Brembo Rotors



Former Rides:

2011 Kona Blue Mustang GT 5.0

2009 True Red Mazdaspeed3 GT

2005 Flame Red SRT-4

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chickenwafer
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Postby chickenwafer » Wed Dec 15, 2010 9:14

I rarely ever skip gears in the FD...the only time I do is maybe when downshifting for a quick turn, but I like to rev-match downshift mostly. You can still bang the shifter twice to go down twice, and if you're going from 4th or 2nd I bet the sequential can get there faster than a conventional manual can, even without skipping gears.

I'm not saying I'm going to get it, it's stupid expensive and my car isn't a dedicated track car, so I probably won't, I just think it's sweet.
:eek:

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iani1.1
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Postby iani1.1 » Wed Dec 15, 2010 9:14

awesome. too bad they only make it for the fd.

best use of a sequential. look at his damn feet, its just insane lol
[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EaMooeaKd4Y"]YouTube - Tsuchiya driving ARTA_NSX and sets a Tsukuba Record[/ame]
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speedjunkie
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Postby speedjunkie » Wed Dec 15, 2010 9:14

That Ikeya shifter still takes a bit between shifts though, you're still using the clutch right? Notice the difference in speed between gears comparing the Ikeya Formula shifter to the one in the Revolution FD.
Image

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iani1.1
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Postby iani1.1 » Thu Dec 16, 2010 9:14

i think an unsprung 6 puck can solve that. lol
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chickenwafer
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Postby chickenwafer » Thu Dec 16, 2010 9:14

iani1.1 wrote:awesome. too bad they only make it for the fd.

best use of a sequential. look at his damn feet, its just insane lol
YouTube - Tsuchiya driving ARTA_NSX and sets a Tsukuba Record


Well, only Mazda they make they make it for is the FD...they also make it for various of Japanese sport cars like the NSX, Evo, STi, S2k, etc.

speedjunkie wrote:That Ikeya shifter still takes a bit between shifts though, you're still using the clutch right? Notice the difference in speed between gears comparing the Ikeya Formula shifter to the one in the Revolution FD.


True, because you're only replacing the shifter, you're not replacing the transmission with a dogbox with straight cut gears that like to be banged. But you can send your FD trans to Liberty Transmission and they will rebuild it with strengthen internals and dog gears, you can shift that as fast as you want.

Video of a Liberty trans in action: [ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yiHfVAygpaQ"]YouTube - Jan 01 2007 - VID00027.AVI[/ame]

Oh and Ian, a stronger clutch won't help you bang through the gears any quicker, in fact, it can make it more difficult.
:eek:

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speedjunkie
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Postby speedjunkie » Thu Dec 16, 2010 9:14

^Maybe that's something you should look into then haha.
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