My new Rx7 R1

Talk about your Rotaries!
Learjet45
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Postby Learjet45 » Tue May 22, 2012 9:14

My suggestion: Be careful. It's be a shame to see such a pretty FD get wrecked.
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JTurton7
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Postby JTurton7 » Wed May 23, 2012 9:14

ive been trying to get out to the pikes peak drift events but the 7 always seems to be down or I have to work. Pikes peak race way's drift place is awesome, sooo open with nothing to smack into.

4g63<13b
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Postby 4g63<13b » Wed May 23, 2012 9:14

Learjet45 wrote:My suggestion: Be careful. It's be a shame to see such a pretty FD get wrecked.


haha i knew someone would say something like this, dont worry im about to go at such a slow progressive pace, also not really gonna drift at spots where hitting something is even an option, dont worry its in good hands

4g63<13b
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Postby 4g63<13b » Wed May 23, 2012 9:14

JTurton7 wrote:ive been trying to get out to the pikes peak drift events but the 7 always seems to be down or I have to work. Pikes peak race way's drift place is awesome, sooo open with nothing to smack into.


Yea you should come out, the last event was in the huge parking lot with litterally nothing to hit, i didnt compete in this one cause im stil waitin for my rad. but i wish i would have cause the event there on the 2nd is on the track and pit lanes where even though the chance is very low, there are actually things that you could run into..

4g63<13b
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Postby 4g63<13b » Wed May 23, 2012 9:14

Hey im about to do my indipendent switch for my fans but one of the relays looks like someone just bridged it with a wire? will this affect my fan mod at all?

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chickenwafer
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Postby chickenwafer » Wed May 23, 2012 9:14

Why do you want to add a switch? The relays do it for you, automatically, based on temperature. Since you have a PowerFC the temperature the fans come on at can be adjusted with the Datalogit software. IMO a fan switch is rather pointless unless your system isn't working properly, in which case you should fix it.

But yes, that missing relay can be a problem. It triggers the fans into the high speed mode.
:eek:

4g63<13b
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Postby 4g63<13b » Thu May 24, 2012 9:14

I did the fan switch mod just like the how to and at first my fans would just always come on, so i cut the wire i spliced into the left relay and only have one wire running from the bridged relay to the switch and it works perfect, chickenwafer; i know iv read that before but its for sliding i figured it would be nice to just flip a switch and have my fans running through out my whole drift run

4g63<13b
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Postby 4g63<13b » Thu May 24, 2012 9:14

chickenwafer; do you know why someone would have bridged that relay

4g63<13b
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Postby 4g63<13b » Thu May 24, 2012 9:14

heres where i put the switch

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chickenwafer
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Postby chickenwafer » Thu May 24, 2012 9:14

4g63<13b wrote:I did the fan switch mod just like the how to and at first my fans would just always come on, so i cut the wire i spliced into the left relay and only have one wire running from the bridged relay to the switch and it works perfect, chickenwafer; i know iv read that before but its for sliding i figured it would be nice to just flip a switch and have my fans running through out my whole drift run


I get what you are doing, and I'm not trying to tell you what to do, but trust me, a fan switch sucks, I've had them in cars before. You think it's all cool and race car status at first, but then it gets annoying. If you forget to flip the switch, your engine can very possibly overheat which means a rebuild. Not a fun time.

Not to mention the PFC will properly cycle the fans to come on when they are supposed to, so there is no danger to your motor. When drifting, they will still operate, if needed. If you run the fans when you don't need them going, you are pulling extra HUGE amounts of amps (15-20) that you don't need. When you ask for extra amps, your alternator works overtime to keep up the amperage. This can not only cost you some horsepower, but also hurt the life of your alternator.

Again, not trying to tell what to do, but IMO a fan switch in an FD with a PFC is a step back. You are removing automatic control from the ECU and leaving it up to human error.

4g63<13b wrote:chickenwafer; do you know why someone would have bridged that relay


Probably because the relay was bad and they couldn't find or afford a replacement so they bridged it to keep functionality.
:eek:

4g63<13b
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Postby 4g63<13b » Sat May 26, 2012 9:14

chickenwafer wrote:I get what you are doing, and I'm not trying to tell you what to do, but trust me, a fan switch sucks, I've had them in cars before. You think it's all cool and race car status at first, but then it gets annoying. If you forget to flip the switch, your engine can very possibly overheat which means a rebuild. Not a fun time.

Not to mention the PFC will properly cycle the fans to come on when they are supposed to, so there is no danger to your motor. When drifting, they will still operate, if needed. If you run the fans when you don't need them going, you are pulling extra HUGE amounts of amps (15-20) that you don't need. When you ask for extra amps, your alternator works overtime to keep up the amperage. This can not only cost you some horsepower, but also hurt the life of your alternator.

Again, not trying to tell what to do, but IMO a fan switch in an FD with a PFC is a step back. You are removing automatic control from the ECU and leaving it up to human error.



Probably because the relay was bad and they couldn't find or afford a replacement so they bridged it to keep functionality.


thanks for the info, the fans still come on normally i dont have to always turn the fans on manually, but i figured for runs i could just throw it on as a precautionary so i dont overheat durring a run, i didnt think about the strain on the alternator and robbed hp though

4g63<13b
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Postby 4g63<13b » Mon May 28, 2012 9:14

Hey I just installed a boost gauge and its reading like -12 at idle, from what I've read that seems pretty low?

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chickenwafer
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Postby chickenwafer » Tue May 29, 2012 9:14

Is it a mechanical or electric boost gauge? Is the vacuum reading in inches of mercury or psi?

-12" at idle isn't terrible, remember we are also at altitude so it will read a little lower that at sea level. For a piston engine, that would be bad, but for a rotary, it's okay. I wouldn't worry about.

If you are worried, you can always do a compression test. But I usually advise if the car cold and hot starts fine, runs fine, and no other issues, then why worry? Don't do a compression test until you develop a problem.
:eek:

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speedjunkie
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Postby speedjunkie » Tue May 29, 2012 9:14

Are you mentioning this because it's reading vacuum or because it's reading more vacuum than you think it should? I was a little freaked out when my first boost gauge was reading -10 to -20 but over time I realized that's normal lol.
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4g63<13b
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Postby 4g63<13b » Tue May 29, 2012 9:14

chickenwafer wrote:Is it a mechanical or electric boost gauge? Is the vacuum reading in inches of mercury or psi?

-12" at idle isn't terrible, remember we are also at altitude so it will read a little lower that at sea level. For a piston engine, that would be bad, but for a rotary, it's okay. I wouldn't worry about.

If you are worried, you can always do a compression test. But I usually advise if the car cold and hot starts fine, runs fine, and no other issues, then why worry? Don't do a compression test until you develop a problem.


its a mechanical autometer, and vacuuums in inches of mercury, oh ok i didnt think about the altitude change, it just seemed low compared to what most said there idle is at, thanks man you calmed my worries haha


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