I was off work today so I got a lot done...I WISH. I spent most of the day running around town looking for a flaring kit to flare a hard line to fit an AN coupler, which is 37 degrees, and a normal flare is 45 degrees. Turns out no one in this town has one lol. So I'm going to check our tools at work tomorrow, and since we probably won't have one I'll go ahead and order one online tomorrow night.
I went to Whisler Bearing this morning and got fittings for the fuel lines, then went to Beauchamp Racing to drop off my water pump housing to get the AN fittings welded into, and also to use his blasting cabinet to sandblast some engine bay pieces and the two housings for the engine. While I was at Beauchamp I realized Whisler gave me a couple pieces that wouldn't work, so I went back over there after leaving Beauchamp. Then I took the pieces I sandblasted to Ximpak to get nickel plated. Then I went looking for a flaring tool and the radiator hoses, which no one had of either. I finally got home around 4pm.
I cleaned up the irons tonight in solvent and scrubbed them. I also pulled out the fuel lines that run from the back of the car to the engine bay, and that was a PITA to do with the diff and rear subframe in. I got the long lines out but the smaller ones that run from just above the diff to the fuel tank are stuck above the diff and driveshaft lol. I gave up trying to get them out tonight. And while I was doing all that, Cody taped off the engine bay and scuffed a little more, getting it ready for paint, which we'll probably do on Saturday or Sunday.
Last night I also started pulling out the airbag sensors near the headlights, which I didn't think to get before. I disconnected them above the wheels from the harness that runs into the car, and I'm just going to pull them into the car through the firewall for right now, and on the passenger side I'll use that hole to run the harness for the new coils. I did a few other things yesterday and last night but now I can't remember what they were lol. I think it was mostly just cleaning off the leftovers from the gold heat barrier tape I had on the side of the engine bay. I will most likely never put that stuff on there again. It's a PITA to get off. Unless the paint looks crappy over that part, then I might put it back on there lol.
Build thread
- speedjunkie
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- speedjunkie
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Does anyone know about Fore Innovations fuel filters? I'm thinking about getting this one because I like being able to reuse the filter element.
http://www.foreinnovations.com/product_p/16-900.htm
It's 10 micron, but I want to make sure stainless steel is OK. Also, it's more expensive than an Aeromotive, but I figure this will be cheaper in the long run.
http://www.foreinnovations.com/product_p/16-900.htm
It's 10 micron, but I want to make sure stainless steel is OK. Also, it's more expensive than an Aeromotive, but I figure this will be cheaper in the long run.
- RX-7 Chris
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I would just go with the aeromotive one. I may be cheaper in the long run but it is going to be a paint to clean. It is so much easier to just swap out the filter. What do you change them once a year tops maybe less?
1984 RX-7 GSL-SE [size=84]My restomod project[/SIZE]
1964 Ford Galaxie 500XL flat black w/ white interior, 2 dr fastback, 390 thunderbird, C6 auto, 2500 rpm high stall converter, shift kit, AC, Holley 750 cfm
[size=100]RIP 1983 RX-7[/SIZE]
My Car Blog
- speedjunkie
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RX-7 Chris wrote:I would just go with the aeromotive one. I may be cheaper in the long run but it is going to be a paint to clean. It is so much easier to just swap out the filter. What do you change them once a year tops maybe less?
I actually replace it less than that lol. Especially considering how little I drive it these days, but I'm hoping to drive it way more. But that's also been because it's mounted on the subframe and I don't get under there much. This one will be mounted right to the back of the UIM.
I don't think it would be a pain to clean. I'd just spray it out with brake cleaner or something and let it sit for a bit, then reinstall. Plus, in the way-off chance that the filter I was using was discontinued, it wouldn't matter lol. Also, if I ever choose to go E85 or Flex Fuel, I won't have to get a new filter.
One thing though...I wanted a black one instead of red, but it doesn't really matter because I'll probably wrap it in heat barrier anyway, so I could just get the stainless Aeromotive one. I'd definitely get the Aeromotive one but they don't have small enough micron.
VRx8 wrote:I have a MagnaFuel 25 Micron Post Pump. Stainless $79
Is 25 micron enough? I figured the higher the number the better it filtered but I don't believe that to be the case anymore lol. Are those -8 fittings?
Up to 40 micron is fine post pump. yes they are 8AN. the beauty of stainless element is that is reusable.
From Aeromotive Website:
STOP!! If you are selling or installing a fuel filter on the outlet of an Aeromotive fuel pump, be certain you do not use a filter that causes more problems than it solves. When choosing a filter for use after the pump, before the engine, use only Aeromotive 10-micron P/N #12301, #12310 or 40-micron P/N #12335, or an acceptable equivalent (see specifications below). Note: These filters are for use on the fuel pump outlet side only, for engine protection. - See more at: http://aeromotiveinc.com/post-pump-fuel-filtration
From Aeromotive Website:
STOP!! If you are selling or installing a fuel filter on the outlet of an Aeromotive fuel pump, be certain you do not use a filter that causes more problems than it solves. When choosing a filter for use after the pump, before the engine, use only Aeromotive 10-micron P/N #12301, #12310 or 40-micron P/N #12335, or an acceptable equivalent (see specifications below). Note: These filters are for use on the fuel pump outlet side only, for engine protection. - See more at: http://aeromotiveinc.com/post-pump-fuel-filtration
Or you can get something like this for ultimate filtration.
The FloMax 300/300M has a very high fuel flow capability of 300 gallons per hour as well as an extremely low fuel flow restriction. Those two features coupled with a highly efficient 5-micron filtration rate and water separation make it a very innovative and efficient system. Manufactured from solid billet aluminum, there are no O-rings, gaskets, or seals to leak or swell. Lightweight and compact, the filter is compatible with gasoline, racing fuel, ethanol, and methanol.
Read more: http://www.circletrack.com/enginetech/ctrp_1012_racing_fuel_filters/#ixzz37gPgxQ2Q
The FloMax 300/300M has a very high fuel flow capability of 300 gallons per hour as well as an extremely low fuel flow restriction. Those two features coupled with a highly efficient 5-micron filtration rate and water separation make it a very innovative and efficient system. Manufactured from solid billet aluminum, there are no O-rings, gaskets, or seals to leak or swell. Lightweight and compact, the filter is compatible with gasoline, racing fuel, ethanol, and methanol.
Read more: http://www.circletrack.com/enginetech/ctrp_1012_racing_fuel_filters/#ixzz37gPgxQ2Q
- speedjunkie
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Wow, that's a beefy filter lol. I ended up getting a Fore filter from T1 Race Development, cheapest I could find it...
http://www.t1racedevelopment.com/category/fuel-delivery/fuel-filters/fore-innovations-f10-inline-modular-fuel-filter
And I got one of their Y blocks to run the lines together just before the filter...
http://www.pro-dyno.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=Fore-BilletY
I'm going to look for other Y blocks that are 6AN all around and set up like this to run the lines for the wastegates. I'd like to save some room and the current ones I'm using take up a lot of room due to the way they're shaped.
And I've also been thinking about getting one of their FPRs, just to clean up the bay...
http://www.awdmotorsports.com/product_p/fore-gtr-f1i-fpr.htm
http://www.awdmotorsports.com/Fore_Innovations_F2i_Fuel_Pressure_Regulator_2013_p/f2i-fuel-pressure-regulator.htm
I've never been a fan of the blue and red fittings and things when I'm trying to go for all black or even some raw aluminum, gunmetal, etc. So I'm also planning on changing my oil cooler lines over to nylon braided with black fittings.
And I got these spark plug wires so I could make a set for the new coils...
http://www.ebay.com/itm/MSD-31233-Spark-Plug-Wires-Spiral-Core-8-5mm-90-Degree-Boots-Universal-L8-V8-/331050264027?_trksid=p2054897.l4275
And I ordered this so I can flare my stainless fuel lines...
[ame]http://www.amazon.com/Ridgid-41162-Model-Flaring-Tool/dp/B001B1RIBQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1405577897&sr=8-1&keywords=ridgid+flare+tool#productDetails[/ame]
I got this so I can run the oil temp sensor to the front cover (hottest point) instead of where I've had it in the filter pedestal (coldest point)...
[ame="http://www.amazon.com/Fragola-Aluminum-Female-Gauge-Adapter/dp/B00GV1JCOM"]Amazon.com: Fragola Aluminum Male x Female Gauge Adapter, -10 AN w/ 1/8 FPT On Side - Black: Automotive[/ame]
Precision Standards called today and said the transmission is finished...$200. WOOHOO!
And I realized last night that I have to go back to Whisler Bearing AGAIN because they gave me a wrong part again. Ugh.
http://www.t1racedevelopment.com/category/fuel-delivery/fuel-filters/fore-innovations-f10-inline-modular-fuel-filter
And I got one of their Y blocks to run the lines together just before the filter...
http://www.pro-dyno.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=Fore-BilletY
I'm going to look for other Y blocks that are 6AN all around and set up like this to run the lines for the wastegates. I'd like to save some room and the current ones I'm using take up a lot of room due to the way they're shaped.
And I've also been thinking about getting one of their FPRs, just to clean up the bay...
http://www.awdmotorsports.com/product_p/fore-gtr-f1i-fpr.htm
http://www.awdmotorsports.com/Fore_Innovations_F2i_Fuel_Pressure_Regulator_2013_p/f2i-fuel-pressure-regulator.htm
I've never been a fan of the blue and red fittings and things when I'm trying to go for all black or even some raw aluminum, gunmetal, etc. So I'm also planning on changing my oil cooler lines over to nylon braided with black fittings.
And I got these spark plug wires so I could make a set for the new coils...
http://www.ebay.com/itm/MSD-31233-Spark-Plug-Wires-Spiral-Core-8-5mm-90-Degree-Boots-Universal-L8-V8-/331050264027?_trksid=p2054897.l4275
And I ordered this so I can flare my stainless fuel lines...
[ame]http://www.amazon.com/Ridgid-41162-Model-Flaring-Tool/dp/B001B1RIBQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1405577897&sr=8-1&keywords=ridgid+flare+tool#productDetails[/ame]
I got this so I can run the oil temp sensor to the front cover (hottest point) instead of where I've had it in the filter pedestal (coldest point)...
[ame="http://www.amazon.com/Fragola-Aluminum-Female-Gauge-Adapter/dp/B00GV1JCOM"]Amazon.com: Fragola Aluminum Male x Female Gauge Adapter, -10 AN w/ 1/8 FPT On Side - Black: Automotive[/ame]
Precision Standards called today and said the transmission is finished...$200. WOOHOO!
And I realized last night that I have to go back to Whisler Bearing AGAIN because they gave me a wrong part again. Ugh.
speedjunkie wrote:Is 25 micron enough? I figured the higher the number the better it filtered but I don't believe that to be the case anymore lol. Are those -8 fittings?
Generally, filters are rated on the size of a particle that will pass. So a 40 micron filter would allow more particles to pass than a 25 or 10 micron. I'm not sure how much impact it has, but since you guys seem like you are pushing your fuel systems, I wonder how much more strain a tight (10 micron) filter would put on the pump vs say the 40 micron. I really have no idea, just thinking out loud.
- speedjunkie
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Shadowden wrote:Generally, filters are rated on the size of a particle that will pass. So a 40 micron filter would allow more particles to pass than a 25 or 10 micron. I'm not sure how much impact it has, but since you guys seem like you are pushing your fuel systems, I wonder how much more strain a tight (10 micron) filter would put on the pump vs say the 40 micron. I really have no idea, just thinking out loud.
I actually wondered about that too. But some other guys were using 10 micron so I figured I would too.
VRx8 wrote:Fore Innovation says is rated for 2500 Horsepower so it can flow fuel very good.
That's comforting lol.
Oh, I also bought apex seals last night too. I got the E&J seals from Edgar, but I'm thinking about getting some Goopy 1-piece seals too, and maybe use those in this build and the E&J in the next one. I'll need another rebuild kit and seals anyway, and I didn't want to pass up the discount this time lol.
- speedjunkie
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Cody came over and painted the engine bay Saturday, and last night I started putting some stuff back in the engine bay. I didn't work on the car tonight because my Mom will be here tomorrow afternoon and the house is a disaster lol. But I still only cleaned a little because the living room, laundry room, and hallway are filled with car parts, and that won't be changing anytime soon, so she'll have to get over it lol.
I also got my flare tool in for the stainless steel fuel lines so I can flare them for AN fittings. And the filter came in, but they need a signature in person so I'm picking it up tomorrow after work.
I also got my flare tool in for the stainless steel fuel lines so I can flare them for AN fittings. And the filter came in, but they need a signature in person so I'm picking it up tomorrow after work.
- speedjunkie
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I got the fuel filter yesterday. It's a bit larger than I thought it would be lol. I might have to get creative to find a place to mount this.
I did some work last night and tonight, mostly putting stuff back in the engine bay. Put the brake lines in (that go from the engine bay down to the wheel wells), painted and put the windshield wipers back on, the AC hardlines, the windshield wiper motor, the ignition harness and relay/fuse boxes, the water injection control box, brake booster line, heater core lines. Started putting the brake booster and master cylinder back in and realized I need another set of hands to help me with that lol.
I painted the irons tonight. I'll try to clear coat the housings soon too so that all will be ready for building. I'm still waiting on the apex seals, and I might need to get new rotors too, but we'll see. One of the rotors that came with the new engine is damaged at the corner seal on one side, like it was dropped, it's dented in and a corner seal won't fit in the hole now. I'm really disappointed because they're in really good shape other than that. There is about a million more things I have to do, but I always forget what they are. They'll come to me though.
I did some work last night and tonight, mostly putting stuff back in the engine bay. Put the brake lines in (that go from the engine bay down to the wheel wells), painted and put the windshield wipers back on, the AC hardlines, the windshield wiper motor, the ignition harness and relay/fuse boxes, the water injection control box, brake booster line, heater core lines. Started putting the brake booster and master cylinder back in and realized I need another set of hands to help me with that lol.
I painted the irons tonight. I'll try to clear coat the housings soon too so that all will be ready for building. I'm still waiting on the apex seals, and I might need to get new rotors too, but we'll see. One of the rotors that came with the new engine is damaged at the corner seal on one side, like it was dropped, it's dented in and a corner seal won't fit in the hole now. I'm really disappointed because they're in really good shape other than that. There is about a million more things I have to do, but I always forget what they are. They'll come to me though.
You mentioned needing to do something with these before: http://denver.craigslist.org/fod/4575750735.html
Although not necessarily car related. Glad it is coming back together for you.
Although not necessarily car related. Glad it is coming back together for you.
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