Build thread

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speedjunkie
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Re: Build thread

Postby speedjunkie » Thu Sep 13, 2018 9:14

Wow, I am SUPREMELY pissed off. I had a good bit typed out and when I went to get a pic from flikr, apparently this site crashed because it was all gone. WTF.

Anyway, the engine bay is all back together aside from wiring the oil cooler fans. I'm going to wire in a relay for the fans since they're each 8a and the switch can only handle 10a. I got the brackets made for the radiator today and got it installed. I had issue after issue getting the radiator done the way I needed, but I'll leave it at that.

Blane stopped by Tuesday night and did some plastic welding on the dash, so I just have a couple more things to do and it can go back in, after I do some more to the interior. The interior is the only thing missing now, so soon after we get back from our trip it should be on the road again.

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Re: Build thread

Postby RX-7 Chris » Fri Sep 14, 2018 9:14

When will you be back?
1984 RX-7 GSL-SE [size=84]My restomod project[/SIZE]


1964 Ford Galaxie 500XL flat black w/ white interior, 2 dr fastback, 390 thunderbird, C6 auto, 2500 rpm high stall converter, shift kit, AC, Holley 750 cfm

[size=100]RIP 1983 RX-7[/SIZE]

My Car Blog

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Re: Build thread

Postby speedjunkie » Sat Sep 15, 2018 9:14

We'll be back on Oct 2nd if I remember right.

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Re: Build thread

Postby speedjunkie » Sun Oct 07, 2018 9:14

We got back the other night and over the following three days I got the car pretty well finished. I got it drivable anyway, and got the alignment done on Friday. On the way there I noticed quite a bit of noise only while I was moving. I wasn't sure if it was maybe the oil cooler fans making contact with the coolers and being turned by the air, or the throwout bearing on the clutch. I'm gonna be really upset if that's what it is. I didn't get the fans hooked up yet so I'm going to put some power to them tomorrow and verify they're not hitting, then I'll run the car on jackstands and put it in gear and see if the throwout bearing is the culprit.

I didn't get the interior completely installed yet. Door panels are still off along with some other small panels here and there and the shifter panel, and that's because I broke the sensor on the ebrake handle. I haven't yet found the part number for it, but I'm thinking about just leaving it. It's not like I can't tell if the brake is engaged or not, so as long as the light doesn't come on I think I'll just leave it.

I haven't checked yet to see if AC works or cruise control now, but I'm hoping to do that tomorrow. I also need to get the water injection activated in the ECU. I didn't take many pics because I was just trying to get everything done for this weekend and I decided against driving the car anyway. I did do a 22 pin connector for the gauge cluster to make install and removal easier, but that thing is a real PITA to get apart for removal lol. The gauges are finished and I installed all the new plastics so the gauges look really good now. I read something about needing to wire in a resistor for the tach, but I never used one before and it seemed to work OK. I have to reset it because it's set for 8cyl right now and I need to set it for 4cyl, it's reading about 3k RPM when it's pretty much at redline.
Image2018-10-07_11-49-58 by Eric Jausel, on Flickr
Image2018-10-07_11-51-37 by Eric Jausel, on Flickr

I installed a different power block for switched power. Now I'm thinking I should have done just a post and then run a couple 10 gauge wires up for power to all the different things and branched off from the connector. But this might make it easier if I want to add or remove one thing at a time.
Image2018-10-07_11-51-18 by Eric Jausel, on Flickr
Image2018-10-07_11-50-51 by Eric Jausel, on Flickr

I installed a new reverse camera but I couldn't get it working. I tried a few different things, one of which was hooking a wire from one in the harness straight to the battery. I forgot to disconnect it and when I first started starting the car it would die after five seconds each time. I also noticed my SPA gauges had power along with the antenna and probably some other things, and those are only supposed to be 12v ignition and I had the battery CB disconnected. I started tinkering and removed the wire I'd hooked up to the battery and it got rid of all my issues. WHEW lol.

I ordered a new CPU no. 2 in the hopes that would solve my alarm issue and the starting issues I had in the past, since I recently discovered they're known to have issues over time with the solder failing. But the company I ordered from had to order them from Japan and they weren't sure they could get them anymore so they canceled my order and I ordered from Ray Crowe...who also had to order it from Japan. I guess I'll see eventually.

When I was switching over all the HVAC stuff to the new plastics, the stock screws started cracking the brand new plastic already. ARGH!!!! I was able to get one size smaller screws from ACE for most of the stuff, and the ones I couldn't change in size I ended up getting some that seemed to go in a little better and without wrecking them. Ugh, I hate these plastics.

I've been talking to Peter at Rice Racing in Australia and he sent me a new map that should get AC working, and he said there were several other things that needed to be fixed, so I'm looking into that stuff as well.

So I have a few things to work out but hopefully they won't be too bad.

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Re: Build thread

Postby speedjunkie » Wed Oct 10, 2018 9:14

Tach is adjusted per Speedhut instructions, to the 4cyl choice, and is reading correctly again. No resistor needed in the wire for the FD apparently.

No oil leaks on engine or transmission. WOOHOO!!

I have an exhaust leak at the flange between the cat and catback. I removed downpipe, midpipe, and the piece between midpipe and the exhaust to get the flanges machined flat.
Image2018-10-10_11-48-54 by Eric Jausel, on Flickr
Image2018-10-10_11-48-41 by Eric Jausel, on Flickr

Wired up the oil cooler fans. After verifying the fans weren't making contact with the coolers. I used one of the Hella relays I had previously used for the fuel pump rewire.

Looked for noise in transmission (specifically the throwout bearing) but didn't hear anything. I'm going to verify again that the tranny has enough oil, but I believe it should. Outside of that and the fans, I'm not sure what the noise could have been.

Reassembled door panels, ready to reinstall tomorrow.

The front alignment bolt on the driver's side lower control arm is turned too far. I'm going to see if I can have it adjusted correctly and still within spec. It should be a near perfect alignment now considering I have the rigid collars in, but maybe not.
Image2018-10-10_11-49-18 by Eric Jausel, on Flickr

Water injection fluid level sensor was bad so I replaced that.

Loaded the new map from Peter at Rice Racing that supposedly fixed AC. It still doesn't work, but I'm checking to make sure either the low pressure cutout or high pressure cutout (I don't remember which) is good by jumping the connector. It could just be low on refrigerant, which would really suck considering I just had it charged a couple years ago.

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Re: Build thread

Postby speedjunkie » Thu Oct 11, 2018 9:14

I pulled the exhaust off last night and took it to five different places today trying to get someone to machine the flanges flat, and I finally ended up at Bud's Muffler. I got the pieces back on but haven't run the car yet to verify. And that's all I did today and tonight haha.

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Re: Build thread

Postby speedjunkie » Fri Oct 12, 2018 9:14

I figured out the noise I was having while moving. The shield on the cat was rubbing against the driveshaft in three places, two of which are seen here.
Image2018-10-12_08-54-33 by Eric Jausel, on Flickr

I charged the AC system and it worked, but unfortunately it works ALL the time. Like, as soon as the car starts, the compressor clutch is engaged, and it runs my power down to 12.7ish volts. Not cool. So I'm seeing about getting that changed, but I might also have to look into an even more powerful alternator if there is one out there. I'm already using an upgraded one pumping out 140a. I have a tester to see how much draw I have on the alternator so I'm going to do that.

Cruise control works again. WOOHOO!!!

I'm not so sure my Mocal oil cooler thermostat was bad, now. My temps are still around 140s-150s usually. The highest they got was about 184.3F, just under where the thermostat would open. And the switch turns the fans on at 190F, so needless to say I still haven't had them running since they've been wired up. Which I guess is good, in a way haha. But I'd like to make sure they work.

I've been having a slight seep from a couple connectors on the oil cooler lines, and I've cranked them down already. But other than that she's running pretty well. I think I'm going to take the car to another Firestone tomorrow to see if they'll adjust the driver's front again since it's out of spec still. If not, I'll take it to Brett or somewhere else.

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Re: Build thread

Postby speedjunkie » Mon Oct 15, 2018 9:14

I took the car to Brett today and he got it all done right. He did a great job. I had him do -1.5 front and -1.7 rear and he got everything identical from side to side except for rear toe and that's only .04 degrees off between the two. I'd say that's pretty damn good.

I forgot to mention that I still have a slight exhaust leak from the same place as before, but I could care less at this point lol. And Saturday I made little bumper stops for the hood so it won't contact the UIM, and so far they look like they're working pretty well. I don't care for the look, but they work haha.

If it's nice tomorrow I'm going to get my laptop set up and drive around to do some logging so I can send it to Peter.

For right now, I think I'm pretty well set up for the track day on the 21st. I put on the tire pressure sensors today too, but I think I'm gonna remove those for the track day. I also want to see if I can find the internal sensors to work with the gauge I have for these.

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Re: Build thread

Postby speedjunkie » Tue Oct 16, 2018 9:14

I drove around today and did some logging and sent it to Peter. There are some not great things haha. Here is his email. Warning, rough language ahead. LOL

"Good news is I have a valid log of 3rd gear WOT pull.

Bad news is:
1. Knock control is useless (sensor not in range)
2. Lambda control is useless (non responsive)
3. Injector staging it totally fucking homo (never seen anything like it)
4. Boost control is AIDS SPEC (like it not working)

Apart from that all good lol!

See the car hitting nearly 1 Lambda on boost at highlighted point below, scary shit mate.

The spike in boost if looking at PSI reading is cause your BAP sensor is acting gay too, it spiking high and low, mostly low, could be wiring issue or the sensor itself mate, so need to look at logic of this and trims the ECU is doing based off it.

Need to sort that out.

Those are my rough first thoughts."

So it looks like there is still work to be done. And that really sucks because I was beating on the car like crazy today to get those logs lol.

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Re: Build thread

Postby speedjunkie » Sun Oct 21, 2018 9:14

Well today was a shit show all around lol. Got up early for the track day. Was fueling up and realized I didn't have my funnel to put in 2 cycle, so I only added a few gallons. Got to the track and had a flat tire. Turns out that was from removing the TPMS last night and I guess I broke the seal on the valve stem, so it only leaks air while going down the highway. Weird. Luckily I had my little emergency air compressor so I was able to fill the tire. I made sure first that the sidewall wasn't damaged. Once I realized the car would be OK I put the numbers on and then realized I brought the wrong helmet so I didn't have my barcode to get scanned. No biggie, that was the least of my problems. Normally when you race, your times are supposed to get better, not worse. Well...I was AWFUL.

Anyway, last night when I was getting ready for the track I noticed the passenger side door handle isn't working anymore. I discovered today that the steering wheel is a bit loose, that's after I swapped in the Works Bell hub the other day.

I was on the phone with Chris tonight while he was remoting into my laptop on the car. He got AC and water injection working, so I'm stoked about that.

I ordered a boost gauge from Speedhut that matches the other gauges, and there's an FD owner with a company called Drakes that 3D prints a bunch of different things for the interior, and he's making a gauge pod for the top of the steering column for me so I got that. This one will snap right into the bottom piece, which no other on the market for a LHD will do.

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Re: Build thread

Postby speedjunkie » Thu Oct 25, 2018 9:14

The other day I fixed the passenger door handle mechanism and tightened the steering wheel nut.

I'm not sure if I mentioned it but I got a little tester to see how much amperage and voltage the alternator is putting out. I hooked it up today and got some decent results. I turned on all the different loads I could, except for the oil cooler fans, and it was reading 80ish amps. Tonight I jacked up the car and jumped the oil cooler fans and had everything else on and it was reading 50ish amps. Weird. But it was also reading about 12.1V, so that's something lol. Not great.

I bought some new TPMS sensors that will be internal this time and they basically use the same gauge as the first set that just plugs into the cigarette lighter. Those came in today so I'm taking the wheels to Brett tomorrow to get those installed. Then I'll be going to help Emmanuelle with his bushings and coilovers on his FC.

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Re: Build thread

Postby speedjunkie » Wed Oct 31, 2018 9:14

We left for SevenStock yesterday, a day early in order to beat the incoming snow. Just south of Raton, Jewel mentioned a smell and a noise, so I pulled over and discovered my AC compressor locked up and ate the belt.
Image2018-10-31_07-15-34 by Eric Jausel, on Flickr
Image2018-10-31_07-16-07 by Eric Jausel, on Flickr

I noticed when I turned off that I didn't have power steering, but I didn't realize just how bad it would be haha. It was AWFUL with 285/30 tires. Luckily I had a few spare belts in the car and had the right one so I bypassed the AC compressor and it's good again. I guess I'll be taking one of the old compressors to get checked out and put that in when I get back. I also think I might have a leak or something because the AC will be really cold at first, but after a couple days it's really not very cold.

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Re: Build thread

Postby Shadowden » Fri Nov 02, 2018 9:14

That sucks. Have fun at Seven Stock though!

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Re: Build thread

Postby speedjunkie » Tue Nov 06, 2018 9:14

It was AMAZING. So much fun. I got to meet a few people that I've talked to over the years, and also meet some new people. I fully intend to go again someday.

I did have another issue that popped up on the way home though. My oil catch can is filling with oil now, very quickly. But I don't seem to be losing any oil. I've never had it fill up even to be able to see it in the sight tube. In the past I would always drain it during oil changes and it was usually mostly water and not very much, and now it's mostly oil and the can is full and it's spraying out through the filter on top. I checked the oil yesterday morning before we left Utah and it was full, and so was the catch can. I drained the can and by the time I stopped again a few hours later it was full again and spraying oil. After that I just left it draining the rest of the way home and watched my oil pressure gauge, which never dropped.

I'm going to take it for a test drive today and see how fast it fills up, then I'll change the oil since it's due anyway. I just hope this isn't going to require a rebuild.

I came home last night to the Speedhut boost gauge and Drakes gauge pod that mounts to the steering column. I didn't realize the 3D printed pod would be so sturdy.

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Re: Build thread

Postby speedjunkie » Sat Nov 10, 2018 9:14

I changed the oil a couple days ago and finally took it for a drive tonight. I drained the catch can tonight and nothing but a couple small drops of water came out. So far so good. I'm guessing the problem was due to excess fuel from running so rich at low altitude and it was bypassing the oil control rings and ending up in the oil pan. I think it does this normally, but was exacerbated due to running so rich. That's just a guess though.

I also installed the boost gauge and Drakes gauge pod while I had the car down for the oil change. The gauge came with a brass nipple and a vacuum hose but the sensor is 1/8NPT and I remembered that I had a hole tapped to that pitch already, and the cable was long enough so I was able to thread it straight into the UIM.
Image2018-11-10_10-28-50 by Eric Jausel, on Flickr
Image2018-11-10_10-22-00 by Eric Jausel, on Flickr

During the drive I noticed that it's going to 20psi even though it's supposed to be set to 18psi, but I guess that's not too bad considering it's converted from something else in the ECU. I forgot how fast the boost gauge pegs out lol. I absolutely love my turbo. I noticed vacuum is resting around 10-12inhg, or around 20 when I'm still in gear and coasting. When we were in SoCal the car was idling around 1800RPM, and I noticed tonight it's still doing it. I'll attempt to adjust that but it's weird to me that it didn't start idling correctly again after getting back here.

Another problem I noticed on the trip that I keep forgetting about is that the water injection didn't use a single drop of water meth, and I took along the entire remainder of the 5 gallon jug I have haha. Took all of it along for nothing. I had put some numbers in the map before I left and it seemed to be working when I took it for a test drive before the trip, but I'm thinking maybe it's not kicking on because of other settings or maybe the pump isn't getting power or something.


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