My new car!

Chance · Postby **Chance** » Mon Oct 18, 2010 9:14

borg warner turbos are loud, but in a really cool way

[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N8qxWFyC8gI"]YouTube - Borg Warner Turbo Dyno Testing[/ame]
[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3vDojfgcRUI"]YouTube - Justin Pawlak Smashes Wall in Qualifying @ Formula Drift LBC[/ame]

chickenwafer · Postby **chickenwafer** » Mon Oct 18, 2010 9:14

Yeah, I LOVE the sound they make.

The only reason I want an HKS T51-R SPL is just for the sound. They are addicting (and make a shit ton of power LOL), but it's a $3k turbo

speedjunkie · Postby **speedjunkie** » Mon Oct 18, 2010 9:14

^T51R

[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NelayhjuJLs"]YouTube - 650hp FD3S RX7[/ame]

I love the sound as well, but not enough to drop the coin.

The BW sounds great too!

chickenwafer · Postby **chickenwafer** » Mon Oct 18, 2010 9:14

LOL I love that video. That FD is insane. Too bad the T51R kit is discontinued by HKS, but even when it was being made it cost something like $6k for the kit, which only included the T51R turbo, stainless v-band manifold, 50mm w/g, and a few pipes, no intercooler! For $6 grand!

Chance · Postby **Chance** » Wed Oct 20, 2010 9:14

That's how you know it's a seriously badass setup, my to4r is silent with my open wastegate, no clue if makes a sound at all actually haha

chickenwafer · Postby **chickenwafer** » Sat Oct 23, 2010 9:14

Been on a bit of a buying spree lately LOL, picked up an AEM PnP 30-1800 EMS, custom 3" SS catless midpipe, all block-off plates, OMP delete kit, and GReddy 3" cast aluminum TB elbow. I already got the elbow and drilled/tapped it for my water/meth jet.

I'm thinking I will put the midpipe on first and run the car as it sits and see how it feels. I'm mostly interested in how much power my butt dyno can pick up with it, according to most people, it's a lot. But others also say bolting up a cat-back made a noticeable increase in power, and I didn't think so too much...

I'm also SERIOUSLY considering rebuilding the motor this winter...I've re-worked my budget enough to know I can afford to do it. So it just comes down to spending money on the rebuild or doing the fuel system LOL

speedjunkie · Postby **speedjunkie** » Sat Oct 23, 2010 9:14

Honestly I'd wait on rebuilding the engine, especially if your other option is getting a fuel kit. Main reason is because you never know how much life is left in the engine as it sits. You may have 40k more miles left on that engine and just throw away money on a rebuild right now, when you could have bought a fuel kit and been one step closer to single turbo. Know what I mean?

chickenwafer · Postby **chickenwafer** » Sun Oct 24, 2010 9:14

I know what you mean man. I also just want to start with a good foundation. I know my FD is down on power a little.

I was also reading my boost gauge incorrectly, because it's pulling -15" of vac at idle, not -12" like I thought. I can live with -15" LOL.

I also dynoed on Harvey's DynoDynamics and put down 229rwhp with just a downpipe, Blitz NUR Spec catback, and gutted OEM airbox, and also spraying water/meth. The water/meth was probably hurting my power because I wasn't tuned. And DynoDynamics dynos read about 10% lower than a typical DynoJet, meaning I would hopefully put down 252rwhp at MAC. I know this isn't a science tho.

I'm thinking on cheaping out on the fuel system a little and getting the old-school Bosch 1680cc secondary injectors and a pair of Siemens 800cc primaries. Both would either require resistors, which slows down injector response time, or I could get a Peak & Hold injector driver like the one from AEM or FJO, which work much better than resistor packs.

I've always recommended Injector Dynamics (ID) injectors, so I feel weird about not using them in my own build LOL, but the other injectors are so much cheaper! But I want to do it once and do it right...so I'm going to see if I can swing the ID injectors. I also really want to buy a clutch...LOL too much to buy...

Eric, what clutch did you get? I know on 7club you mentioned it was an ACT...do you have a link?

speedjunkie · Postby **speedjunkie** » Sun Oct 24, 2010 9:14

I hear you about having a good foundation.

I have an FJO driver that I won't need anymore after I get the ID injectors. And the clutch I got was a ACT Xtreme with 6 puck sprung disc, the part number is ZX3-XTG6.

http://www.raceinspired.com/p-8626-act-xtreme-6pad-spring-race-clutch-kit-mazda-rx-7-twin-turbo-1993-1999.aspx?affiliateid=10065

That's not where I bought it, you can find it cheaper but they also aren't available sometimes. The one I got was the last one the company had on hand. Apparently ACT only makes a few at a time since our cars are rare.

Also, the pressure plate in that link, mine doesn't look like that, mine looks more like the one in this link...

http://www.sparktecmotorsports.com/zx3-xtg6.html

chickenwafer · Postby **chickenwafer** » Sun Oct 24, 2010 9:14

So did you get a 6-puck clutch? I've heard those don't last long at all, like 10,000 miles if you're lucky. Do a search on 7club, there are all kinds of threads about it.

I was kinda hoping to get a full face clutch. So either a full face ACT or I'll have to spring for the Exedy twin disc which is apparently the only clutch for the FD worth a damn.

Hold that FJO injector driver for me if you will, I'll probably get it

speedjunkie · Postby **speedjunkie** » Sun Oct 24, 2010 9:14

Dude, I have the same exact setup now that I took off the car, and I put that clutch in 5 years ago. The sprung 6 puck clutch lasts plenty long. I think the car MIGHT have had 115-120k on it when I put that clutch on, and it now has 164k, so yeah, lasting only 10k is bunk. So I will pass on reading the threads because I have first hand experience haha. I can't tell you yet whether this setup is going to hold the full power once I get it, but it's supposed to hold 577 lb/ft of torque so I'm hoping it will be enough. On top of all that, this clutch isn't that bad on the street, probably because it's sprung.

I'll hold onto the driver for you, I imagine it will be a bit before I do the injector swap anyway. I was planning on sometime this winter.

Chance · Postby **Chance** » Mon Oct 25, 2010 9:14

Peak and hold driver was the best thing that ever happened to my AEM setup

And the 1600's work great, really it's not cheapening out at all

chickenwafer · Postby **chickenwafer** » Mon Oct 25, 2010 9:14

Alright, I'll get the ACT 6-puck then. I don't know what the douche's on 7club are smoking. Every thread I read people claim ACT clutches are junk and/or the only last 10,000 miles...

I'm thinking with all the work I'm planing on doing I should just pull the motor LOL, especially if I'm doing the clutch. It would be easier to do the full emissions delete, fuel system plumbing, installing the dual oil coolers, etc, with the motor out.

speedjunkie · Postby **speedjunkie** » Mon Oct 25, 2010 9:14

Well if you pull the engine you might as well rebuild it too...ya know, "while you're in there" lol.

I don't know what those clowns are talking about. Did you see they closed the FD pics thread? Well, they didn't close it but you can't post in it anymore. Now they have a new thread with official rules. I hate those nazi pricks.

chickenwafer · Postby **chickenwafer** » Tue Oct 26, 2010 9:14

LOL, famous last words from ANY rotary owner.."While you're in there you might as well do this"

Yeah, I'm pretty over 7club, I only go there for information, which isn't even all that good. I'm way over people attempting to be "forum celebrities" and the cliques that run crazy and control everything since moderators are in them.

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