Synthetic or not to synthetic
Synthetic or not to synthetic
Alright this is bugging the piss out of me, how many of you guys with rotaryru. Synthetic. This is a forever on going debate about this and that... Blah blah, count of vote who does and doesn't ahha. I can't decide if I want to or not l, and that's why I'm striking the match and see what kind the response will be
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boosted12a
- Posts: 247
- Joined: Sun May 29, 2011 9:14
- Location: Fort lewis, Washington
synthetic oil will burn a lot easier, but is smoother for the engine internals in general. I'm not sure about rotaries and if a thicker weight oil is preferred? Royal Purple is a popular brand: [ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kqvhRi7-iMA"]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kqvhRi7-iMA[/ame]
"Littering, and?..."
In the race world, most folks disconnect the oil injection pump and run 1-2oz of dino oil per gallon of gas. I personally use Honda 2-cycle race motorcycle oil and usually use 100LL avgas. Most people think the dino oil burns better than synthetic, which makes sense to me.
In the crankcase, we tend to change oil every one to four weekends (three to 24 hours of engine time) so as long as you're using something good, I don't think it matters. I use dino oil, usually Valvoline, because it is a lot cheaper than the synthetic. National champions use synthetic, usually Royal Purple or similar. (That's just one reason I'm not a National champion contender!)
For my street car, I have the oil injection pump and all the emissions stuff fully connected and use good dino oil, usually Valvoline 10-30, 10-40, or 20-50 depending on the season. I'll occasionally throw some of the same oil into a tank of gas, but more like 1/4-1/2 oz per gallon.
In short, using good oil is key. Dino or Synthetic is secondary. Good luck!
In the crankcase, we tend to change oil every one to four weekends (three to 24 hours of engine time) so as long as you're using something good, I don't think it matters. I use dino oil, usually Valvoline, because it is a lot cheaper than the synthetic. National champions use synthetic, usually Royal Purple or similar. (That's just one reason I'm not a National champion contender!)
For my street car, I have the oil injection pump and all the emissions stuff fully connected and use good dino oil, usually Valvoline 10-30, 10-40, or 20-50 depending on the season. I'll occasionally throw some of the same oil into a tank of gas, but more like 1/4-1/2 oz per gallon.
In short, using good oil is key. Dino or Synthetic is secondary. Good luck!
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chickenwafer
- Posts: 2515
- Joined: Wed Mar 11, 2009 9:14
- Location: Greeley
I run synthetic for the "crankcase" or sump, but I have also deleted my OMP so the oil isn't being injected. I then run Idemitsu premix, it's specifically formulated as rotary premix and to be run through a fuel system.
There are some real good oil studies and comparisons out there (HERE for example from just a quick Google search) and, of course, people who take this stuff real seriously. I decided to run a high quality synthetic (Brad Penn 10w-40) to not only help with bearing life, rotor cooling, but also turbocharger life. If I can find the link to the information on the internetz I will post it, but there was a test a company did comparing typical dino oil to high quality, top shelf synthetics and torture tested a journal bearing turbocharger.
The jist of the test was the dino oils resulted in bearing failure of the turbocharger quicker, whereas the high quality synthetics provided nearly no measurable wear on the turbocharger CHRA. Just some stuff to think about.
If I still had my OMP and had to run it, I would run a high quality dino oil because of synthetic oils high flash point and they don't like to burn. So when injected into the combustion chamber, they can leave behind nasty deposits that will only help in carbon build-up and engine failure.
There are some real good oil studies and comparisons out there (HERE for example from just a quick Google search) and, of course, people who take this stuff real seriously. I decided to run a high quality synthetic (Brad Penn 10w-40) to not only help with bearing life, rotor cooling, but also turbocharger life. If I can find the link to the information on the internetz I will post it, but there was a test a company did comparing typical dino oil to high quality, top shelf synthetics and torture tested a journal bearing turbocharger.
The jist of the test was the dino oils resulted in bearing failure of the turbocharger quicker, whereas the high quality synthetics provided nearly no measurable wear on the turbocharger CHRA. Just some stuff to think about.
If I still had my OMP and had to run it, I would run a high quality dino oil because of synthetic oils high flash point and they don't like to burn. So when injected into the combustion chamber, they can leave behind nasty deposits that will only help in carbon build-up and engine failure.
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eliminster
- Senior Member
- Posts: 202
- Joined: Mon Aug 22, 2011 9:14
- Location: colorado springs
I usually run royal purple 20w-50 or valvoline r1 oil in mine. For me cause I do change it a lot usually doesn't matter to much what I get as long as its 20w-50 which I find keeps compression so far the longest under boosted conditions. As for premix since I have an omp delete I use 2-cycle oil in a ratio near 1oz per gallon with a little bit extra if I know I am going to be running on it real hard or traveling through Manitou Springs.
87 red rx7
running 13b re cosmo motor
03 yellow wrx
yes it is a stock color
00 black s10 zr2
yes i have it to tow cars when they break.
running 13b re cosmo motor
03 yellow wrx
yes it is a stock color
00 black s10 zr2
yes i have it to tow cars when they break.
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