Well Im making progress on the car. It has been down for awhile. The factory ABS unit decided to fail and was pissing brake fluid all over and therefore had no brake pressure.
Through Mazdatrix they offer an abs delete for s4&s5 and even fd. If any of you have the same situation occurring look them up rather than paying $2500 for a new abs unit.
Well my car was definitly a 30 footer when it came to looks and from what those pictures looked like previously here is some progress pictures for you guys.
Ill start with from sanding car. Which its almost ready for primer now too!
New Member and New T2
- I`m Batman
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- Joined: Tue Feb 03, 2009 9:14
- Location: Castle Rock
D Walker wrote:Front mount is not always a good idea on an FC, especially with the stock radiator.
Don't call me a mind reader or anything.. but I'm guessing your preferred method is in the V configuration?
2003 MazdaSpeed Potege: Wiseco Pistons, Molnar Rods, Walboro 255, Megasquirt Ecu, Front Mount, Daily Driver.
1991 Mazda Rx-7 Convertible: Rebuilt 4-Port Turbo Block, TII drivetrain swap, Walboro 255, Megasquirt, Aeromotive FPR, JIC coilovers, 4" Stainless exhaust, Ticket Getter.
1976 Honda CB750F: Cafe Racer, Powder coated, Rebuilt, re-bearing/bushing, tapered stem bearing upgrade, Garage Project
2014 Silverado: Mazda Support Vehicle
2003 Subaru Forester: What was I thinking?...
1991 Mazda Rx-7 Convertible: Rebuilt 4-Port Turbo Block, TII drivetrain swap, Walboro 255, Megasquirt, Aeromotive FPR, JIC coilovers, 4" Stainless exhaust, Ticket Getter.
1976 Honda CB750F: Cafe Racer, Powder coated, Rebuilt, re-bearing/bushing, tapered stem bearing upgrade, Garage Project
2014 Silverado: Mazda Support Vehicle
2003 Subaru Forester: What was I thinking?...
No, I actually dont care much for V-mounts, they are *almost* always done badly. FMIC's on FC's work fine as long as you pay attention to the cooling and radiator. Most folks dont. For a street car I honestly thin the ideal setup for a bad ### FC is a W/A IC setup. Compact, doesnt hurt cooling, and waaaay more efficient than an A/A setup if done properly.
1986 Turbo FC race car, S6 13b, GOOPY Apex seals etc, GT35R, AEM EMS, lots more good stuff
RX8 World Chalenge Touring Car #7
RX8 World Challenge Touring Car #8
RX8 World Chalenge Touring Car #7
RX8 World Challenge Touring Car #8
well i already have a aluminum radiator and the racing beat upper and lower rad hoses. I have the stock clutch fan but thinking about following aaron cakes write up on his website he did to make sure i have the proper cfm through the radiator for overheating issues. but i need to get my fuel taken care of. and im going to go with megasquirt
[SIZE="2"]1989 Mazda RX7 T2[/SIZE]
[SIZE="2"]1992 Jeep Cherokee Lifted 5" on 32's DD[/SIZE]
[SIZE="2"]1992 Jeep Cherokee Lifted 5" on 32's DD[/SIZE]
well i did the walbro 255 yesterday, I had to drill out the good ole Phillips screws mazda decided to put in the fuel hanger. So i re installed some 8mm self tappers to replace them since the threads were so rusted and the drill bit haha. but here is some pictures.
[SIZE="2"]1989 Mazda RX7 T2[/SIZE]
[SIZE="2"]1992 Jeep Cherokee Lifted 5" on 32's DD[/SIZE]
[SIZE="2"]1992 Jeep Cherokee Lifted 5" on 32's DD[/SIZE]
- millertime
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- Location: Denver Metro
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An electric fan does a good job stabilizing the coolant temp. Ran it through two summers without overheating issues. But, that was just looking at the stock gauge temp. I still worry about my coolant temps because of the ill-designed/manufactured godspeed radiator i purchased.
Was the pump easy to install? I get nervous when i work around gasoline. haha
Was the pump easy to install? I get nervous when i work around gasoline. haha
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