FDEEZ's Build Thread
- speedjunkie
- Senior Member
- Posts: 5289
- Joined: Wed Jan 02, 2008 9:14
- Location: Colorado Springs
- Contact:
JTurton7 wrote:how did you do that bead on the radiator piping? annnnd can it be done to intercooler piping?
I use the "Bead Form 2 HD" on the left for intercooler/intake/radiator piping and the "Bead Form Jr" on the right for fuel/coolant tubing. Their only purposes are for MIL spec beads on tubes/pipes. I don't have any complaints with these two toys yet.
The clunker is finally on the road again...leak free and running good!
I ended up settling with this configuration for my power/grounds:
I can honestly say that I’m sick and tired of cutting, crimping, heat shrinking, and routing cables/wires. Although the majority of work is hidden, it sure was a lot of work.
Few observations during this quick little adventure:
1. If a hose contained coolant, it leaked.
- I must’ve replaced every single hose that held coolant. The last hose that I didn’t replace was the overflow tank hose. After I finalized the cabling, I took the car out for a drive around the block yesterday. Guess what started to leak…the overflow tank hose.
2. What a difference quality wires, crimps, connections, and grounds makes!
- First, I take back half of the bad things I’ve said about Optima batteries. The problem wasn’t the battery or the starter after all. Although I bought a Duralast Platinum (now a backup), the Optima is fantastic with the new wires. Before swapping out all my power/grounds, the starter cranked like the battery was at 20% charge. In other words, it struggled to turn the motor.
-- Now the starter cranks like it’s connected to a 1 gigawatt flux capacitor. I now have immediate, confident starts...FINALLY!
- Second, I’m not sure if bad power/grounds affects the tune, but the tune feels spot on now. The idle is great, temps are down, and my seat-of-the-pants dyno says I gained more than just a few ponies.
3. The car scares the living daylights out of me.
- Unlike my other high-powered car, this car is definitely not confidence-inspiring when accelerating on street tires. With my other car, I would simply mash & go and let the electronics keep me safe when accelerating to the posted speed limit (and when cornering).
-- I’ve only driven the Rx7 a handful of times earlier this year before taking her down for surgery. Therefore, you could say I’ve spoiled myself with all the safety-aides of the other car. So when I “eased” into the speed limit during the test drive today, the “pucker factor” was pretty high when I didn’t expect a playful rear-end during a moderate 3-4 shift.
Bottom-line, I forgot how “fun” this car was. Unfortunately, it definitely requires a higher level of concentration due to how “manual” it is. The car isn’t driving you…you have to drive (a.k.a manhandle) the car. With how traction-limited it is on the street, I’m highly considering adding traction control, expediting my rearend swap (for lower gears), or even adding Pettit flares for 12” wide rears. Much to consider. One thing hasn’t changed though…it’s still an FD Rx7 chassis…which equates to a beautiful body and phenomenal handling unmatched by most cars :-)
I ended up settling with this configuration for my power/grounds:
I can honestly say that I’m sick and tired of cutting, crimping, heat shrinking, and routing cables/wires. Although the majority of work is hidden, it sure was a lot of work.
Few observations during this quick little adventure:
1. If a hose contained coolant, it leaked.
- I must’ve replaced every single hose that held coolant. The last hose that I didn’t replace was the overflow tank hose. After I finalized the cabling, I took the car out for a drive around the block yesterday. Guess what started to leak…the overflow tank hose.
2. What a difference quality wires, crimps, connections, and grounds makes!
- First, I take back half of the bad things I’ve said about Optima batteries. The problem wasn’t the battery or the starter after all. Although I bought a Duralast Platinum (now a backup), the Optima is fantastic with the new wires. Before swapping out all my power/grounds, the starter cranked like the battery was at 20% charge. In other words, it struggled to turn the motor.
-- Now the starter cranks like it’s connected to a 1 gigawatt flux capacitor. I now have immediate, confident starts...FINALLY!
- Second, I’m not sure if bad power/grounds affects the tune, but the tune feels spot on now. The idle is great, temps are down, and my seat-of-the-pants dyno says I gained more than just a few ponies.
3. The car scares the living daylights out of me.
- Unlike my other high-powered car, this car is definitely not confidence-inspiring when accelerating on street tires. With my other car, I would simply mash & go and let the electronics keep me safe when accelerating to the posted speed limit (and when cornering).
-- I’ve only driven the Rx7 a handful of times earlier this year before taking her down for surgery. Therefore, you could say I’ve spoiled myself with all the safety-aides of the other car. So when I “eased” into the speed limit during the test drive today, the “pucker factor” was pretty high when I didn’t expect a playful rear-end during a moderate 3-4 shift.
Bottom-line, I forgot how “fun” this car was. Unfortunately, it definitely requires a higher level of concentration due to how “manual” it is. The car isn’t driving you…you have to drive (a.k.a manhandle) the car. With how traction-limited it is on the street, I’m highly considering adding traction control, expediting my rearend swap (for lower gears), or even adding Pettit flares for 12” wide rears. Much to consider. One thing hasn’t changed though…it’s still an FD Rx7 chassis…which equates to a beautiful body and phenomenal handling unmatched by most cars :-)
- Saul_Good
- Senior Member
- Posts: 480
- Joined: Sun Jul 22, 2012 9:14
- Location: Cerritos, CA (DW says i can't play here anymore...)
- Contact:
FDEEZ wrote:I went to the one on Powers and Stetson Hills. However, after you buy the lifetime alignment, you can go to any firestone, anytime. Depending on the technician, you can probably work out a custom alignment.
Ok. I had it for my last car and had to find that ONE place that would do what I want whenever I wanted. I tried to rotate through different ones and not all would do custom alignment nor more than 1 every 3mos (according to the logbook they would sign off on). If I was to purchase lifetime again, I wouldn't want to go through that hassle again.
When I would say -2.5 anything the tech would be like
Sorry you had to go through that hassle. I didn't ask about custom alignments...but the sales clerk said that, "I'm not sure how often you need alignments, but if your alignment was off next week...that [I] could bring it in again or as many times as [I] wanted." I took that as her implying that if I aggressively set it up for a race over the weekend (meaning if I aligned it myself), that Firestone would set it back to OEM settings after the race. She specifically stated that there was no waiting period. In fact, she stated that some folks get an alignment today...go on a road trip tomorrow...and get an alignment again the following day to correct whatever happened during the road trip.
I was going to try a more "aggressive" alignment setting on my next trip...so I'll let you know how that goes. However, I doubt they'll do a custom job.
I was going to try a more "aggressive" alignment setting on my next trip...so I'll let you know how that goes. However, I doubt they'll do a custom job.
- speedjunkie
- Senior Member
- Posts: 5289
- Joined: Wed Jan 02, 2008 9:14
- Location: Colorado Springs
- Contact:
I've had that lifetime alignment through them since about 2006. I've only used it about 4 times, but it still paid for itself. I used to go to the one on Stetson Hills and Powers but they wouldn't do a custom alignment, the one on south Academy would though. I think it depends on the technician and/or manager.
I won't go back to the one on Stetson Hills now because they had some idiot mounting my tires last time that not only gouged my wheels, but couldn't figure out why he couldn't get my skinnier front tire on my wide rear wheel. *facepalm* Now I'll take my wheels and tires only to Brett (BRC) at Big-O.
I won't go back to the one on Stetson Hills now because they had some idiot mounting my tires last time that not only gouged my wheels, but couldn't figure out why he couldn't get my skinnier front tire on my wide rear wheel. *facepalm* Now I'll take my wheels and tires only to Brett (BRC) at Big-O.
lOOkatme wrote:There is a guy at peerless tire that puts on tires and does a good job. he also removes the tires from the backside of the wheel with the face down. Jake is his name, location is academy by woodman.
I'll have to remember that when it's time to replace my Hoosier A6's. Thnx!
D Walker wrote:I do my own race car alignments..
Does your shop corner balance too? I'm considering having it done after I install a roll bar.
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