Has anyone done this service? I called the dealership and the charge is $650ish which is unfortunately too rich for my blood.

Here is what is performed:

replace engine oil and mazda oil filter (i change my own oil with synthetic)
rotate tires (Just had new tires put on with summer wheels)
inspect steering operation and linkages,
lubricate all hinges, locks, and latches,
inspect and top off fluids,
inspect all belts, hoses, lines and clamps,
inspect front suspension ball joints,
inspect brakes,
inspect cv boots,
replace air filter (i have a cp-e intake that doesn't require any maintenance)
inspect function of all lights
inspect timing belt/chain
drain & fill cooling system

Does anyone know when the transmission oil is due for a change on the 6-speed transmission?

Has anyone worked as a tech and done these 'inspections' and know exactly what to look for?

Has anyone done a coolant flush? That might be somethigg I could do for the tech day this weekend if it's not too labor intensive.

EDIT: The owner's manual also states to tighten all nuts and bolts on the chassy. This is not listed in the mazda of lakewood 30k maintenance.

Most dealerships use a flush machine to do a coolant flush. Not something you'll have access to. You list says drain and fill, which is different from a flush. At 30k, you shouldn't need a drain and fill, more or less a flush. Does Mazda recommend new coolant at 30k? It's usually good to 100k these days. Most of the other stuff you can check yourself if you can get the car into the air and spend some time under there with a flashlight. It'll be pretty obvious if something is no good.

you can check with other local shops too, don't have to use the dealer. Or do the easy stuff yourself and take it in to the dealer or other shop for the tougher ones.

dommo_g wrote:Most dealerships use a flush machine to do a coolant flush. Not something you'll have access to. You list says drain and fill, which is different from a flush. At 30k, you shouldn't need a drain and fill, more or less a flush. Does Mazda recommend new coolant at 30k? It's usually good to 100k these days. Most of the other stuff you can check yourself if you can get the car into the air and spend some time under there with a flashlight. It'll be pretty obvious if something is no good.

Yea, the coolant is listed at the 30k mark in my owner's manual.

To me a "flush" was the old days of clearing gunk out of our radiators. If the coolant/car has 30,000 miles and (green/normal) is in good condition. I'd simply drain the old stuff, fill with water, bring back up to temp and drain out the water. Fill with 50/50 of standard or long life coolant. In the old days we'd leave coolant alone until we had a problem, then it took a flush to clean it out.

The "machine" is the enviromental way to change coolant. Here at my work, we collect the old and it gets picked up and recycled. We don't use the filter/strainer/DCA adding machine. Old shops used to just let it go down the driveway and that is why the "machine" became the norm.

^I agree, you don't need a complete "flush" but just change the fluid as outlined. It's pretty easy but just make sure you burp the system for air bubbles. I'm also a fan of Redline Water Wetter which reduces the surface tension of the coolant and provides better cooling. I use 2 bottles per fill up and you can get it at any auto parts store. It really works.

$650 seems like a lot of coin for a bunch of things that say "inspect" in front of it. The only work done there that you haven't already done is coolant.

Coolant, according to the manual, is an "inspect" at 30k, and depending on fluid type, change at either 120k (FL22) or 60k (others)

I spoke with Courtesy and the charge was zero.
John said everything is fine with the car so just keep up good PM's. I thought there might be a 30K thing too. Of course these guys had seen the car routinely for the last two years.

I rolled 30k not to long ago and was told by Sill that it's something you don't really have to do right away.

seems to me just like a way for them to trick non car smart people into thinking its something that needs to be done so they can make profit

step 1: sell car to unsuspecting fool
step 2: ?
step 3: profit

step 2 could either be worry wart or idiot

I did it, but I selected the things I wanted done. Still ended up paying $350'ish. The inspection revealed a broken engine mount and worn belt, both replaced under warranty. New fluids, and piece of mind that my warranty is in tact.

Regulator wrote:I did it, but I selected the things I wanted done. Still ended up paying $350'ish. The inspection revealed a broken engine mount and worn belt, both replaced under warranty. New fluids, and piece of mind that my warranty is in tact.

Those would be covered under the 5 year/ 60k warranty, right?

Money is a little tight right now, just rolled over 29k miles and the car seems to be just fine. Hopefully if things pick up soon, I can go in for a belated 30k service. (I wouldn't know if I had a bad engine mount, so something to think about).

Since you guys are talking inspection, I just bought an '08 MX5 GT. I'll post some pics if I can get my computer to cooperate. Anyways, my issue is: I had a '97 Miata for 5 years and it was a great car. when I drive the MX5 it just seems different. When I accellerate through the gears, especially when I'm getting on it I get this funny sensation. When I let off the gas between gears the nose seems to dive and wander slightly, mainly to the left. Does that seem maybe like a motor mount is broken or something? It's hard to explain. The car only has 25K on it and shows no signs of abuse. The tires were just checked out and balanced. One wheel has a minor flat spot on it and the dealer put it on the rear right til I can get another one. If anyone has experienced this please let me know. Thanks in advance.
Jim