Atx to Mtx

[Co626]

626, Probe, mx6, Protégé ( I think) auto to 5spd swap

-MTX Brake Fluid Reservoir (notice the nipple on the side which feeds the clutch master cylinder). I happen to have the brake master cylinder as well, but the reservoir is all you need.

-MTX Brake Pedal Assembly.

-Clutch Master Cylinder.

-Clutch Pedal Assembly.

-Clutch Slave Cylinder. In my case, it already came with the transmission.

-Clutch Lines. There are two (2) hard lines and one (1) soft line. [Clutch Master Cylinder-->Hard Line-->Soft Line-->Hard Line-->Clutch Slave Cylinder]. You can see the soft line and the slave side hard line in this picture.

-MTX Rear Transmission Mount Bracket.

-MTX Rear Transmission Mount.

-MTX Front Transmission Mount and Bracket.

-MTX Side Engine Mount Bracket.

-MTX Side Engine Mount.

-MTX Bottom Mount.

-MTX specific Intermediate Shaft. I'm pretty sure you could use the ATX bearing. My shaft came with the bearing already on it.

-MTX drive axles.

-MTX Starter.

-Shifter Assembly and Shifter Linkages (these are V6 or I4 specific).

-There is a slight possibility that your transmission may not come with a Clutch Fork. The Fork is basically what the clutch slave cylinder pushes, the fork then pushes on the release bearing.

-Clutch Assembly. (Clutch Disk and Pressure Plate)

-Flywheel.

-Release and Pilot Bearings. These are usually included with new clutches. The pilot bearing is fitted into the middle of the flywheel. The release bearing sits on the transmission spline, and the clutch fork is pressed against it. This is what pushes on the pressure plate to disengage the clutch. The release bearing can be seen in this picture.

-Clutch Alignment Tool. Required for Clutch installation. This is usually included if you buy a new clutch.

Tools needed ( This is basically all u need, others not included are just extras u could use):
1) 10 mm socket
2) 12 mm socket
3) 14 mm socket
4) 17mm socket
5) 32 mm socket (Just for the axle nut)
6) 1 short flathead screwdriver and 1 strong long flathead screwdriver
7) Impact wrench (You'll feel sorry if you don't have one)
8) Extensions(short, medium, and long)
9) Shoplights, about 3 will do
10) Engine jacks (2 needed-one for engine support and one for tranny lowering(unless you purchase a
tranny jack)
12) Hammer (heavy duty one)
13) Breaker bar
14) Mechanics wire( to hold up caliper)
15) Needle nose pliers
16) Regular pliers
17) 1/2, 1/4, and 3/8inch socket wrenches (Get a really long one, a medium one, and tiny short one(for tight fit
areas)
18) 1/2 to 3/8 adapter and 3/8 to 1/4 adapter
19) Can of WD40
20) Car ramp(for rear)
21) 4 jack stands (2 for front supports, 2 for back up right behind the 2 supports
22) 2x4 or 4x4 piece of wood (for jack)
23) 17m box wrench
24) 14mm box wrench
25) Hub puller (optional, it'll make it easier)
26) Phillips screwdriver
27) Wiring schematics for Automatic and Manual Transmission
28) Haynes, Chiltons, and Shop Manual
29) Flywheel/Flexplate holding tool
30) Snap ring tool for install of short shifter.

Part 1: Taking out Automatic Transmission

Day 1:
- Swap parts almost complete. Still need: Clutch, top driver's side tranny mount, Pass. Halfshaft, Axle Seal, Starter.
- Tools organized and sorted
- Back up onto car ramp (the rear wheels)
- Relieve fuel pressure(green fuse in fuse box)
- Jack up the front ( so its parallel to the floor with the rear)
- Put jack stands on the side supports
- Put 2nd set of jack stands behind the ones supporting the car for safety) and also put extra wheels under car for safety
- Support motor with engine hoist, jack, or tie bar on top
- Took out intake assembly(elbow, filter, hose)
- Took out charcoal canister (2 hoses top 1 hose on bottom, 2 bolts for bracket)
- Took out cruise control(2 bolts,10mm)
- Took out Battery tray(3 10mm bolts) and battery
- Fuel filter (2 bolts 10mm)(2 hoses, top and bottom)---replace with new one
- Took off wheels both sides
- Took off or moved away Driver's side:
-Tie Rod (1 17mm bolt with cotter pin inserted {remove pin first, new cotter pin needed later} )
- Lower control arm (1 bolt and 1 nut each side, both 17mm)
- Axle Nut (32 mm, use impact wrench)
- Push out driver's side axle from hub(use hub puller or hammer)
- Then remove axle from tranny (use big screw driver or breaker bar to pull out)
- Remove the all splash guards
- Remove crossmember (17mm, 3 on each side,6 total)
- Remove transverse member(17mm 5-6 bolts) and front engine/tranny mount(2 bolts either 14 or 17mm)--- put in engine mount
- Disconnect all wiring harnesses from the top(all electrical is on top)
- Disconnect the cable from gear selector on tranny
- Take off starter(3 bolts, 14mm, and 2 wires)
- Take off bolts that mount tranny to engine(4 on top, 3 on bottom, 17mm)
- Drain all atx fluid
- Disconnect all atx fluid lines
TMRW- take off pass axle and intermediate shaft
- rear engine/tranny mount
- top driver's side tranny mount
- Lower tranny

Day 2:
-Pass Tie rod( 17mm and pin)
-Took off lower control arm (14mm bolt and nut)
- Axle Nut(32 mm, use impact wrench)
- Remove pass. side axle from hub
- 2 bolts(14mm) to take off intermediate shaft(shaft is between the tranny and pass. side axle)
- Take off rear engine/tranny mount( 4 bolts 17mm socket plus extensions)
- Support engine with jack plus 2x4 onto oil pan

Part 2: Starting the Manual Transmission Swap


Brake and clutch master cylinder and pedals
-Take off Brake master cylinder.(2 12mm bolts,1 12mm bolt for cruise control wire bracket, 1 wire harness)
-2(w/abs) or 3 (w/o abs) hydraulic lines on brake master cylinder (12mm use a box wrench)
-Take reservoir off master cylinder (1 screw and pull it off)
-Put on mtx reservoir on master cylinder. Reattach bolts and harness.
-Reattach brake lines.
-Get inside car. Take off center console, panel around shifter, the plastic panel under steering wheel (2 screws, 3-4 clips, and 2 side plastic pieces in door hinge area).

-Take off ATX brake pedal assembly. (7 12mm bolts, 2 10mm bolts, 1 mm nut, 1 wiring harness and 1 clip for cable, and 1 cotter pin for brake booster)
-Take off black plastic casing around the steering wheel. 3-4 screws.
-Drop the steering column down and off to the right(2 12mm bolts on each side.)
-Pull out brake pedal assembly.
-Fit in clutch pedal assembly ( don't install mtx brake pedal assembly first because you can’t fit the clutch pedal in after that. That was not fun to take out and put it in again )
-go outside car and under hood, take off the white plastic grommet on driver’s side( this is the hole to mount the clutch master cylinder.
-Fit the clutch master cylinder in hole. 1 person holds that in, while the other person goes inside car to bolt up the clutch pedal assembly against the clutch master cylinder on the other side. (2 12mm bolts, 1 pin for the hydraulic pin thing)
-Install mtx brake pedal assembly.(7 12mm bolts, 210mm bolts, 1 mm nut, 1 clip for cable, 1 cotter pin for brake booster pin) *somebody should be under the hood to push the brake booster against the firewall so the other person can install the brake pedal assembly*
-Look for 2 wiring harnesses under there. Match up the harness to brake pedal harness and the clutch wiring harness to the right harness. Both should plug in easily.
-Clutch pedal is supposed to plop to the floor, (more info on that later)
-reinstall the steering column. Don’t install black panel around steering wheel. You will need to do something later.

Mtx tranny installation:


Shifter installation and removal:
-Get inside car and get ready to out atx shifter.
-4 screws, then 2-3 bulbs, then 4 12mm bolts. Atx shifter cable- 10 mm nuts , shifter lock 10mm nut.
-As the shifter lock stops you from turning off the car when in gear. And the cable is loose. You won’t be able to turn your key off and pull out. To solve that, trace that cable to the key hole. Pull on the cable. You’ll see why it won’t hold. Pull the cable, you can turn and take the keys out, cable in, can’t take out. I ghetto rigged it with some rubber bands so it’ll hold in place. Then I used some bondo to hold it.
-Install mtx shifter and rod. Go underneath car and unbolt the cat, 4 17mm bolts.
-Push the mtx shifter assembly through the hole. Other person inside car bolts on the shifter, 4 12mm bolts.
Bolt shifter rod to tranny. There should be 2 rods. One for shifting and one for vibration dampening. 1 14mm bolt for the vibration rod. 1 8 or 10mm bolt and nut for shifter rod.
-Bolt on cat. Again. Make sure gasket is tight. 4 17mm nuts
-Get inside car, you should be able to shift into every gear. Don’t do too much ass the tranny doesn’t have gear oil. Install your shift knob on there. Install the shift boot onto shifter panel.
-Put back the panels inside the interior. Shifter panel, center console, steering wheel and column panels.

clutch lines
-Plug the hose from clutch master cylinder to the fluid reservoir
-attach clutch line onto clutch master cylinder 10 mm. Use box wrench for lines
-There should be 2 clutch lines and 1 clutch hose.
-run line along the strut part of the chassis, there should be a white clip for the clutch line to clip onto. It’ll run under the top tranny mount. And onto the bracket that is attached to the tranny mount. The clutch hose should attach to that and the other end of clutch hose on the tranny. From the clutch hose is another clutch line that goes to the clutch slave cylinder.
-Attach onto slave cylinder, 10mm. The slave cylinder should be on the tranny already. The slave cylinder is on top of the front engine mount. It should be against the fork.



Axle,hub,members,brakes, bleed
-shove in driver’s side axle into the tranny.
-install wheel hub onto lower control arm, 1 14mm bolt and nut.
-Be sure to put high temp grease on each end of the axle to get the axle into tranny and hub smoothly.
-shove in axle into hub.
-Install steering rod, 17mm nut. Install new cotter pin onto the nut
-Install hub onto strut.2 17mm bolt and nut
-Install (*if applicable) abs bracket and abs sensor(2 12mm bolt and 1 12mm bolt for bracket)
-Do the same to the passenger side, with the addition of intermediate shaft and carrier bearing. (2 14mm bolts if you have a 94-97, 3 bolts if you have a 93)
-Install transverse member 6 17mm bolts for transverse member
-Install crossmemer 2 17mm bolts rear. Install the tranny to crossmember rubber isolator 2 14mm bolt on tranny, 2 nuts onto crossmember. Install to front chassis and front engine mount. 17mm
-install brake caliper and rotor. Along with the pads and brake lines of course.
-Tighten down axle nut onto axle. Tap the edge of nut into the notch in the axle. Be sure to use locktite to be safe. You don't want a axle popping out on you during driving. 32mm
-Bleed brake and clutch. Bleed brakes first. Make sure you use a power brake bleeder, you will need it as there is too much air in the line for you to do it manually.
-Reinstall splash guards.
-Put wheels back onto hubs.
-Lower car.

Electrical
-Plug in harnesses in tranny area.
-Plug in vehicle speed sensor.
-Don’t plug in reverse light switch.. To resolve that, use the 2 wires from the reverse light switch, plug into the to the 1 and 4 for continuity( for the harness in the illustration below)
-Use 2 wires and jump 6 and 9 to trick the comp, so you can start the car.
-2-3 harnesses do not plug into anything, just leave it

The orange harness that looks like this:
TOP
------------
|1 2 3 4 5|
|6 7 _ 8 9|
-----------
BOTTOM

Reinstall other stuff:
-Fill up tranny gear oil
-Cruise control, charcoal canister, battery, intake.

Start car and drive
Remember clutch break in period of 500miles

[SpeedRacer]

wow damn dude

[Co626]

i thought youd like that

[MazdaTom]

While I didn't read all of that, it looks good. I've heard that the ATX to MTX swap on 3rd gen Proteges is VERY involved. Like everything you mentioned, plus you need to swap wire harnesses and ECUs. A couple (and I mean like TWO) have done it but have said afterwards to just buy a MTX Protege and swap all your other parts over (suspension and whatnot).

Nice work though. While I don't like my ATX Protege, I think I'll suffer through it and just make sure the next car I get is just what I want.

[Co626]

haha i have to agree with you on that i dont ever want to do that again

[Rich]

Damn.....was it worth it?

[MS3_Mafia]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (Rich @ Feb 11 2008, 12:01 AM) [url=index.php?act=findpost&pid=24558]<{POST_SNAPBACK}>[/url]</div>

Damn.....was it worth it?[/b]

Definately to him it was! Nice job CRM, props to you dude....

[Co626]

it was worth it but the car was stolen and burned about 2 months later

[tsx_guy]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (Crm @ Feb 11 2008, 02:10 AM) [url=index.php?act=findpost&pid=24575]<{POST_SNAPBACK}>[/url]</div>

it was worth it but the car was stolen and burned about 2 months later[/b]

that totally sucks... my folks had a mid 90's 626 5 speed back in the day...it was a pretty fun car.