So i want to get a piggy back fuel management system for my car. along with higher flowing fuel injectors. i was just wondering if this is really what it says it does for that price and what exactly would it let me do. in other words could i control air fuel ratio's, throttle response. and i was also wondering if you guys knew of any Mazda 3 2006 Chips that are out there?
http://www.modacar.com/products/Mazda/Mazd...uel+Manage.html
heres what im looking at
Piggy back
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arctic_blue83
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (Jerstillman @ Mar 6 2008, 10:46 PM) [url=index.php?act=findpost&pid=30582]<{POST_SNAPBACK}>[/url]</div>
Why do you want higher flowing fuel injectors? Maybe I'm missing something, but looking at your sig, it appears the only "power" mods you have are a CAI & exhaust.... I would be willing to bet money, your stock injectors still have PLENTY of overhead, I would be surprised if they were even running over 80% IDC at WOT. In essence, the only reason to get higher flow injectors is if you're running out of fuel when modifying/need more fuel than your current injectors can supply to maintain safe AFR's. I would almost guarantee you are not running out of fuel with only simple CAI & exhaust mods... in other words, there's no reason to upgrade injectors at this point... now if you were about to install a turbo/supercharger kit, or some other major power parts, like cams with a lot of lift/duration, and had already upgraded most of your breathing restrictions (intake/exhaust manifolds, piping, filter, throttle body ect), then I could understand, but at this point, don't waste your money.
Contrary to what Forza will teach you, upgrading your fuel system does not necessarily constitute an increase in power lol. As far as that piggyback goes... I don't see anything in there about timing control, so basically it's just a simple fuel controller, that probably modifies your MAF/MAP sensor voltage in order to trick the ECU into adding/removing fuel at certain RPM points. Most of the SAFC's I've worked with were usually pretty easy to work with/tune. Although, unless you have a wideband O2 installed, I would not recommend attempting to tune it on the street, as accidentally tuning it too lean could increase your chances of detonation, which could damage your motor.
If you're going to get a piggyback like that, I would recommend you have it tuned on a dyno by a professional, with at least a tailpipe wideband O2. I don't know how conservatively the 3i is tuned from the factory, or how well it has reacted to your mods... but if I had to guess, just off the top of my head, with a good dyno tune, you would probably see anywhere from 3-12hp by leaning your AFR's out, but hard to say exactly. You would have to check with the tuner of your choice to get rates for tuning, I've seen local shops charge anywhere from $120-$350/hr, so plan on spending some cash, although it should take less than an hour for a simple AFR tune with a SAFC assuming things go smoothly. Good luck.
So i want to get a piggy back fuel management system for my car. along with higher flowing fuel injectors. i was just wondering if this is really what it says it does for that price and what exactly would it let me do. in other words could i control air fuel ratio's, throttle response. and i was also wondering if you guys knew of any Mazda 3 2006 Chips that are out there?
http://www.modacar.com/products/Mazda/Mazd...uel+Manage.html
heres what im looking at[/b]
Why do you want higher flowing fuel injectors? Maybe I'm missing something, but looking at your sig, it appears the only "power" mods you have are a CAI & exhaust.... I would be willing to bet money, your stock injectors still have PLENTY of overhead, I would be surprised if they were even running over 80% IDC at WOT. In essence, the only reason to get higher flow injectors is if you're running out of fuel when modifying/need more fuel than your current injectors can supply to maintain safe AFR's. I would almost guarantee you are not running out of fuel with only simple CAI & exhaust mods... in other words, there's no reason to upgrade injectors at this point... now if you were about to install a turbo/supercharger kit, or some other major power parts, like cams with a lot of lift/duration, and had already upgraded most of your breathing restrictions (intake/exhaust manifolds, piping, filter, throttle body ect), then I could understand, but at this point, don't waste your money.
Contrary to what Forza will teach you, upgrading your fuel system does not necessarily constitute an increase in power lol. As far as that piggyback goes... I don't see anything in there about timing control, so basically it's just a simple fuel controller, that probably modifies your MAF/MAP sensor voltage in order to trick the ECU into adding/removing fuel at certain RPM points. Most of the SAFC's I've worked with were usually pretty easy to work with/tune. Although, unless you have a wideband O2 installed, I would not recommend attempting to tune it on the street, as accidentally tuning it too lean could increase your chances of detonation, which could damage your motor.
If you're going to get a piggyback like that, I would recommend you have it tuned on a dyno by a professional, with at least a tailpipe wideband O2. I don't know how conservatively the 3i is tuned from the factory, or how well it has reacted to your mods... but if I had to guess, just off the top of my head, with a good dyno tune, you would probably see anywhere from 3-12hp by leaning your AFR's out, but hard to say exactly. You would have to check with the tuner of your choice to get rates for tuning, I've seen local shops charge anywhere from $120-$350/hr, so plan on spending some cash, although it should take less than an hour for a simple AFR tune with a SAFC assuming things go smoothly. Good luck.
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jerstillman
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (arctic_blue83 @ Mar 7 2008, 07:24 AM) [url=index.php?act=findpost&pid=30607]<{POST_SNAPBACK}>[/url]</div>
so what other breather elements can i upgrade? like throttle body and so on?
Why do you want higher flowing fuel injectors? Maybe I'm missing something, but looking at your sig, it appears the only "power" mods you have are a CAI & exhaust.... I would be willing to bet money, your stock injectors still have PLENTY of overhead, I would be surprised if they were even running over 80% IDC at WOT. In essence, the only reason to get higher flow injectors is if you're running out of fuel when modifying/need more fuel than your current injectors can supply to maintain safe AFR's. I would almost guarantee you are not running out of fuel with only simple CAI & exhaust mods... in other words, there's no reason to upgrade injectors at this point... now if you were about to install a turbo/supercharger kit, or some other major power parts, like cams with a lot of lift/duration, and had already upgraded most of your breathing restrictions (intake/exhaust manifolds, piping, filter, throttle body ect), then I could understand, but at this point, don't waste your money.
Contrary to what Forza will teach you, upgrading your fuel system does not necessarily constitute an increase in power lol. As far as that piggyback goes... I don't see anything in there about timing control, so basically it's just a simple fuel controller, that probably modifies your MAF/MAP sensor voltage in order to trick the ECU into adding/removing fuel at certain RPM points. Most of the SAFC's I've worked with were usually pretty easy to work with/tune. Although, unless you have a wideband O2 installed, I would not recommend attempting to tune it on the street, as accidentally tuning it too lean could increase your chances of detonation, which could damage your motor.
If you're going to get a piggyback like that, I would recommend you have it tuned on a dyno by a professional, with at least a tailpipe wideband O2. I don't know how conservatively the 3i is tuned from the factory, or how well it has reacted to your mods... but if I had to guess, just off the top of my head, with a good dyno tune, you would probably see anywhere from 3-12hp by leaning your AFR's out, but hard to say exactly. You would have to check with the tuner of your choice to get rates for tuning, I've seen local shops charge anywhere from $120-$350/hr, so plan on spending some cash, although it should take less than an hour for a simple AFR tune with a SAFC assuming things go smoothly. Good luck.[/b]
so what other breather elements can i upgrade? like throttle body and so on?
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arctic_blue83
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (Jerstillman @ Mar 7 2008, 03:17 PM) [url=index.php?act=findpost&pid=30702]<{POST_SNAPBACK}>[/url]</div>
Well, "breather mods" are mostly just what I consider intake & exhaust mods to be. Here's a short list:
-Intake to include piping & filter. You already have a CAI, so mark that off your list.
-Cat-back exhaust. The exhaust piping from the cat to the rear of the car. I'm assuming that's what you mean by "exhaust" in your sig. This would be to include all piping behind the cat as well as the mufflers, but it would appear you already have a cat-back.
-Header/exhaust manifold. A lot of stock manifolds have short, unequal length runners, often times with a cat built into them. Picking up an aftermarket header can free up a few horsepower, sometimes a good bit more than you'll get from either a CAI/SRI or cat-back. Taking out a cat always helps, as well as replacing your existing runners with equal length tubular style manifold, can new you some decent gains. Although, there's also a chance you'll throw a CEL if you remove a cat.
-Mid-pipe/test pipe (if applicable). I don't know how many cats your car has... if it has 2, 1 in the exhaust manifold, and another shortly after, getting rid of the 2nd cat can only help.
-Intake manifold. Replacing your stock intake manifold can help see gains if it's well designed to fit your application, although there's a good chance no one makes a upgraded intake manifold for your car, and if they do, it's not cheap.
-Ported throttle body. Just like it sounds, if you're good at porting, over the years people have seen small gains porting out the throttle body as well as removing material from the butterfly. Typically not good for too much power, but can help slightly with throttle response if done correctly. If you're not familiar with porting, do not attempt this, as I would hate to see you damage your throttle body.
-Coolant bypass mod. This is a small trick that can help bring down your IAT's ever so slightly. Most modern cars have a coolant line running through the throttle body. The purpose of this is so the warm coolant can help to heat the throttle body during winter, to keep the butterfly from sticking. You can connect the incoming & outgoing coolant lines & close off the passage through the TB. This will keep the warm coolant from passing through your throttle body, which has been known to take down the TB/air temperatures slightly. Cooler/denser air makes more power, although probably not more than about 1hp, and you will no longer have protection against a sticking butterfly in the winter.
^^^Those are just a few ideas. If you're planning on staying NA, beyond that, to make more power, you'll be looking at opening up the block. If you do all of this, and still want more power, I suggest a set of mild street cams, with a little more lift/duration, without going overboard. Beyond that, you'll look at building both the bottom and top end, porting the head, oversized valves, higher compression internals, possibly increasing displacement ect ect... or, you could just turbo/supercharge it, which ultimately becomes cheaper... but then you have more risks involved, and it's probably time to start thinking of getting a more powerful car. Anyway, hope this helps.
so what other breather elements can i upgrade? like throttle body and so on?[/b]
Well, "breather mods" are mostly just what I consider intake & exhaust mods to be. Here's a short list:
-Intake to include piping & filter. You already have a CAI, so mark that off your list.
-Cat-back exhaust. The exhaust piping from the cat to the rear of the car. I'm assuming that's what you mean by "exhaust" in your sig. This would be to include all piping behind the cat as well as the mufflers, but it would appear you already have a cat-back.
-Header/exhaust manifold. A lot of stock manifolds have short, unequal length runners, often times with a cat built into them. Picking up an aftermarket header can free up a few horsepower, sometimes a good bit more than you'll get from either a CAI/SRI or cat-back. Taking out a cat always helps, as well as replacing your existing runners with equal length tubular style manifold, can new you some decent gains. Although, there's also a chance you'll throw a CEL if you remove a cat.
-Mid-pipe/test pipe (if applicable). I don't know how many cats your car has... if it has 2, 1 in the exhaust manifold, and another shortly after, getting rid of the 2nd cat can only help.
-Intake manifold. Replacing your stock intake manifold can help see gains if it's well designed to fit your application, although there's a good chance no one makes a upgraded intake manifold for your car, and if they do, it's not cheap.
-Ported throttle body. Just like it sounds, if you're good at porting, over the years people have seen small gains porting out the throttle body as well as removing material from the butterfly. Typically not good for too much power, but can help slightly with throttle response if done correctly. If you're not familiar with porting, do not attempt this, as I would hate to see you damage your throttle body.
-Coolant bypass mod. This is a small trick that can help bring down your IAT's ever so slightly. Most modern cars have a coolant line running through the throttle body. The purpose of this is so the warm coolant can help to heat the throttle body during winter, to keep the butterfly from sticking. You can connect the incoming & outgoing coolant lines & close off the passage through the TB. This will keep the warm coolant from passing through your throttle body, which has been known to take down the TB/air temperatures slightly. Cooler/denser air makes more power, although probably not more than about 1hp, and you will no longer have protection against a sticking butterfly in the winter.
^^^Those are just a few ideas. If you're planning on staying NA, beyond that, to make more power, you'll be looking at opening up the block. If you do all of this, and still want more power, I suggest a set of mild street cams, with a little more lift/duration, without going overboard. Beyond that, you'll look at building both the bottom and top end, porting the head, oversized valves, higher compression internals, possibly increasing displacement ect ect... or, you could just turbo/supercharge it, which ultimately becomes cheaper... but then you have more risks involved, and it's probably time to start thinking of getting a more powerful car. Anyway, hope this helps.
Piggybacks allow you to dump more fuel into the engine by controlling your fuel injectors' duty cycles. As you force more fuel into the engine, you will also need more air, and vice-versa.
Like Brandon said, given your NA engine and your list of mods, it's unlikely that you will max out your fuel delivery system, unless you decide to force feed your engine with air.
Increasing the engine air flow is the key to make more power. There are many ways to achieve higher air flow such as forced induction, higher rpm, or upgrading to less restrictive bolt-ons.
To be honest with you, upgrading all those bolt-ons described above for your car is almost pointless as they will yield very little power increase with your NA engine and the air density we have here in Colorado. I think they are more for the show than they are for the go.
The most efficient power increase for your car would be a forced induction application if you want to head there.
Like Brandon said, given your NA engine and your list of mods, it's unlikely that you will max out your fuel delivery system, unless you decide to force feed your engine with air.
Increasing the engine air flow is the key to make more power. There are many ways to achieve higher air flow such as forced induction, higher rpm, or upgrading to less restrictive bolt-ons.
To be honest with you, upgrading all those bolt-ons described above for your car is almost pointless as they will yield very little power increase with your NA engine and the air density we have here in Colorado. I think they are more for the show than they are for the go.
The most efficient power increase for your car would be a forced induction application if you want to head there.
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jerstillman
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (Anh Bi @ Mar 8 2008, 02:27 AM) [url=index.php?act=findpost&pid=30828]<{POST_SNAPBACK}>[/url]</div>
hahah yeah thanks a lot brandon that was goods and thanks, it looks like Jeremy needs to sack up and get a mazda speed3
Piggybacks allow you to dump more fuel into the engine by controlling your fuel injectors' duty cycles. As you force more fuel into the engine, you will also need more air, and vice-versa.
Like Brandon said, given your NA engine and your list of mods, it's unlikely that you will max out your fuel delivery system, unless you decide to force feed your engine with air.
Increasing the engine air flow is the key to make more power. There are many ways to achieve higher air flow such as forced induction, higher rpm, or upgrading to less restrictive bolt-ons.
To be honest with you, upgrading all those bolt-ons described above for your car is almost pointless as they will yield very little power increase with your NA engine and the air density we have here in Colorado. I think they are more for the show than they are for the go.
The most efficient power increase for your car would be a forced induction application if you want to head there.[/b]
hahah yeah thanks a lot brandon that was goods and thanks, it looks like Jeremy needs to sack up and get a mazda speed3
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