MAZDA 3i CAMBER

jerstillman · Postby **jerstillman** » Thu Mar 06, 2008 9:14

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (SpeedRacer @ Mar 6 2008, 09:56 PM) [url=index.php?act=findpost&pid=30570]<{POST_SNAPBACK}>[/url]</div>

Are you under warranty?[/b]

yeha im under warranty for awhile

jerstillman · Postby **jerstillman** » Thu Mar 06, 2008 9:14

But i have a feeling mazda isnt going to view the negative camber as a issue that requires them to spend money and fix it

Co626 · Postby **Co626** » Thu Mar 06, 2008 9:14

I just went through this problem it can make some bad problems like a wheel hub freezeing up i would get this fixed as soon as possible.

Colombia28 · Postby **Colombia28** » Thu Mar 06, 2008 9:14

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (Jerstillman @ Mar 6 2008, 11:05 PM) [url=index.php?act=findpost&pid=30586]<{POST_SNAPBACK}>[/url]</div>

But i have a feeling mazda isnt going to view the negative camber as a issue that requires them to spend money and fix it[/b]

Well if its out of factory spec then they have to fix it. You are still under warranty, so unless they pull the "something aftermarket" caused the problem then they have to fix it regardless of cost... only thing is the rear links aren't adjustable so if the rear is that out of wack stock, the links must be messed up which means you should NOT have to pay to fix it. Warranty FTW! Its a short drive to Sil-Terhar(sp?) off 36.

SpeedRacer · Postby **SpeedRacer** » Fri Mar 07, 2008 9:14

Good advice Andrew! Jeremy take it down there whats the worst that happens

jerstillman · Postby **jerstillman** » Fri Mar 07, 2008 9:14

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (SpeedRacer @ Mar 7 2008, 12:55 AM) [url=index.php?act=findpost&pid=30594]<{POST_SNAPBACK}>[/url]</div>

Good advice Andrew! Jeremy take it down there whats the worst that happens[/b]

whats that place?

MS3_Mafia · Postby **MS3_Mafia** » Fri Mar 07, 2008 9:14

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (Jerstillman @ Mar 7 2008, 03:22 AM) [url=index.php?act=findpost&pid=30600]<{POST_SNAPBACK}>[/url]</div>

whats that place?[/b]

Any Mazda Dealership.

Colombia28 · Postby **Colombia28** » Fri Mar 07, 2008 9:14

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (MS3_Mafia @ Mar 7 2008, 04:34 AM) [url=index.php?act=findpost&pid=30603]<{POST_SNAPBACK}>[/url]</div>

Any Mazda Dealership.[/b]

Yep basically. The place i mentioned is a the closest Mazda dealer to Boulder.

Sill-Terhar Motors - Mazda
1680 W. 1st Ave.
Broomfield, CO 80020

Phone: 303-469-1801

arctic_blue83 · Postby **arctic_blue83** » Fri Mar 07, 2008 9:14

So, you're telling us that the guy "looked" at the car from behind, and could just see 2 degrees of negative camber? Bring the car to a Mazda dealership for a second opinion, if your car is still under warranty, they should be able to take care of it for you, or at least tell you your car is within factory spec. If *somehow* you bent your factory control arms, or they were like that from the factory, they should be able to replace them, unless they determine abuse was the cause of a problem.

As far as negative camber goes.... not necessarily a bad thing in moderation. When cornering, if you have 0 camber, your tire will "roll" to the outside edge, not allowing you to maximize your full contact patch as pressure on the inside edge if your tire will be minimal... with a little bit of negative camber (toe out), in a straight line, you'll have more inside tire wear, but upon cornering, your inside tire will roll toward the outside edge, supplying you with slightly more usable contact patch... larger usable contact patch=more grip. When cornering, grip is your friend

^^^Granted, that's just a simple breakdown, there's more to it than that, I was just trying to make it somewhat understandable. Although, on a FWD car, negative camber in the front would be more useful than negative camber in the rear.... mostly due to a FWD car's tendency to understeer. As a general rule of thumb, while driving hard (cornering, not drag racing lol), if your front tires give out first, the car will tend to understeer, whereas if the rear tires give out first, you'll be more likely to oversteer. Increasing grip up front on your car will help reduce it's tendency to understeer, making it a more neutral car.

Either way, take it to a dealership. I have a little secret for your... most shops will try and over-exaggerate a problem because they LIKE TO MAKE MONEY. Not saying that's necessarily the case, but get a second opinion, preferably from a Mazda certified tech who works on Mazda's daily.

To Tom: IIRC, I believe the Mazda 3 has a MacPherson strut suspension up front, and a multi-link/double wishbone in the rear. In contrast, the Mazda 6 has double-wishbones front and rear.

SpeedRacer · Postby **SpeedRacer** » Fri Mar 07, 2008 9:14

Nice post Brandon

jerstillman · Postby **jerstillman** » Fri Mar 07, 2008 9:14

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (arctic_blue83 @ Mar 7 2008, 08:14 AM) [url=index.php?act=findpost&pid=30623]<{POST_SNAPBACK}>[/url]</div>

So, you're telling us that the guy "looked" at the car from behind, and could just see 2 degrees of negative camber? Bring the car to a Mazda dealership for a second opinion, if your car is still under warranty, they should be able to take care of it for you, or at least tell you your car is within factory spec. If *somehow* you bent your factory control arms, or they were like that from the factory, they should be able to replace them, unless they determine abuse was the cause of a problem.

As far as negative camber goes.... not necessarily a bad thing in moderation. When cornering, if you have 0 camber, your tire will "roll" to the outside edge, not allowing you to maximize your full contact patch as pressure on the inside edge if your tire will be minimal... with a little bit of negative camber (toe out), in a straight line, you'll have more inside tire wear, but upon cornering, your inside tire will roll toward the outside edge, supplying you with slightly more usable contact patch... larger usable contact patch=more grip. When cornering, grip is your friend

^^^Granted, that's just a simple breakdown, there's more to it than that, I was just trying to make it somewhat understandable. Although, on a FWD car, negative camber in the front would be more useful than negative camber in the rear.... mostly due to a FWD car's tendency to understeer. As a general rule of thumb, while driving hard (cornering, not drag racing lol), if your front tires give out first, the car will tend to understeer, whereas if the rear tires give out first, you'll be more likely to oversteer. Increasing grip up front on your car will help reduce it's tendency to understeer, making it a more neutral car.

Either way, take it to a dealership. I have a little secret for your... most shops will try and over-exaggerate a problem because they LIKE TO MAKE MONEY. Not saying that's necessarily the case, but get a second opinion, preferably from a Mazda certified tech who works on Mazda's daily.

To Tom: IIRC, I believe the Mazda 3 has a MacPherson strut suspension up front, and a multi-link/double wishbone in the rear. In contrast, the Mazda 6 has double-wishbones front and rear.[/b]

yeha there have been plenty of time when i go around a corner marked 15 at 50 and the car keeps going straigh even though my steering wheel is pointed the other direction. but with a couple quick presses of the brake, control is regained instantly. but yeha i will take it down to them. thanks a lot brandon that was a good post.

MAZDA 3i CAMBER

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