Build thread

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speedjunkie
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Re: Build thread

Postby speedjunkie » Sat Aug 08, 2020 9:14

I got the new actuator and the connector for the valve today, so I installed everything. First I was trying to reuse the body of the old actuator, but it wouldn't work since the bottom is a bit different. The new actuator has the bottom port rotated about 15 degrees off where it was, and it's a different thread pitch, so I went to Whisler Bearing to get a couple new fittings (3/8NPT to 3AN nipple). Luckily they had what I needed. So I was set! Or so I thought. I realized once I got everything back together and Whisler Bearing was closed, that one of the braided lines I'm using is now too short, the one that goes to the port that's been rotated, for seemingly no damn reason. Ugh.

I got the new bushing for the old actuator today too, so I installed that, and there is still air leaking out the back of the actuator. So I guess it doesn't really matter? I installed the old actuator and ran the car tonight, and I'm still only getting about 14psi now, which I guess is a little better since I was only getting 12psi before, but I was supposed to be getting either 16 or 18psi, I don't remember which I had selected.

I cut some more metal out of the heat shield in an attempt to make it work, but it still wasn't enough and I gave up. So I just wrapped the wastegate in some heat shielding and left it at that. And I swapped out the 14psi spring that was in it and put in the 5 and 7psi springs to make 12psi.

Image20200807_163052 by Eric Jausel, on Flickr
Image20200807_153541 by Eric Jausel, on Flickr

This is the inline ball joint I had picked up to modify the old actuator, next to the new actuator and it's ball joint. Very similar.
Image20200807_143255 by Eric Jausel, on Flickr

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Re: Build thread

Postby speedjunkie » Wed Aug 12, 2020 9:14

Monday after work I went to Whisler Bearing and got a new line made and installed the new actuator, but I didn't test it until tonight. Still not fixed. So now I'm guessing it's either the ECU or maybe the baro pressure sensor or something, because I've already replaced the actuator and 4 port valve with no luck.

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Re: Build thread

Postby speedjunkie » Wed Aug 19, 2020 9:14

I was looking online the other night, making sure I had the lines plumbed right. I found a pic that had the two lines coming out of the solenoid swapped, so instead of the top line going to the top of the actuator, going to the bottom instead. I swapped them and tested it. I definitely got full boost, and then some. And once I hit about 20psi the car started bucking. I'm not sure if that was due to the fuel map being too lean or the actuator slamming open and shut. I guess it had to be the fuel map since the wastegate opening and closing wouldn't have made such a huge difference in acceleration.

Chris told me to put the 3 port solenoid back in. I installed the BCSV that comes with the EFR turbos and tested it tonight. Still no luck. The springs in the new actuator should be opening the gate at 12psi but I'm getting about 15psi no matter which boost setting I choose.

On top of all that, I'm in bad need of tires, and I really don't want to buy new ones right now, for a couple reasons.
1. I want to fix the damage to the right rear wheel before I get new tires, and I REALLY don't have the money for that.
2. I wanted to have some spare wheels and tires for the winter before I get new track tires, that way I can bring the track tires inside for the winter so they won't get ruined.

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Re: Build thread

Postby speedjunkie » Thu Aug 27, 2020 9:14

Last Friday night I installed new firmware and software on the ECU, and pretty much bricked it haha. Chris logged in Sunday afternoon and fixed it easily though. I took it for a drive again and boost was still messed up. I sent him some logs he said he'd look at. I'm also going to try changing the vacuum hose routing again.

I ordered some tires a couple days ago, should be here tomorrow. Kumho Ecsta V720, all four for about $615 shipped. Not bad at all, that's about half what I usually pay for new tires in this size. Andy has two sets of them and he likes them. They handle well on the track and apparently don't wear bad either. I was looking at a full set of used Hoosier R7s but I wasn't sure how they'd handle on the street and read that I'd probably only get about 1500 miles out of them. They were only $400, but financially it still didn't make sense.
https://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.js ... Ecsta+V720

I started looking into TPMS again too. Mine is still working, aside from a couple batteries being dead so the readings no longer show. I might end up just replacing the batteries for now and going with it. The one I have is no longer available, also. But I did find some cool options while looking. I started seeing ones that just use a receiver and plugs into a stereo that has Android Auto and shows the readings on the screen through the app. And the cool thing is that the app doesn't have to be open to see alerts about a tire losing air or whatever, it will pop up on the screen over other things. The only downside is that I can't plug my phone in to use Android Auto at the same time, but I don't ever do that anyway. I didn't even have it set up until last night. I'm also going to use internal sensors again. I found a few options on Amazon but ended up buying it from Phoenix Automotive. Although it looks pretty much exactly like some others I've seen on Amazon lol.
https://phoenixautomotiveinc.com/produc ... al-sensors

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Re: Build thread

Postby speedjunkie » Sun Aug 30, 2020 9:14

I got the new tires on Friday and decided to just replace the batteries in my current TPMS sensors instead of waiting for the new kit to get here, since they hadn't shipped it yet (and still haven't, even though I ordered it Thursday). If they don't ship it by tomorrow I'll probably just cancel the order. Big O pulled the tires off and I saw the batteries are CR2050. Easy enough, I'll just go to Batteries+. Well, they didn't have any, said I'd need to order them online because there's some $10k insurance they have to have in order to ship the batteries. I tried King Soopers and Ace Hardware too, neither had the batteries. However, a CR2025 is the same diameter but shorter. I bought a few of those and put one in and it worked. However, I started thinking under centrifugal force, the batteries might lose contact inside and cause problems, since they're shorter. I put a couple pennies in and it looked like it would work OK but I got nervous about that. Brett suggested using a spring, and I almost did that, but I found the batteries online somewhere (not even Amazon has them). So I ordered four of the batteries, and if the batteries get here first I'll just put those in, but if the new kit gets here first I'll try to install that instead.

Chris got back to me Friday and said the TPS wasn't getting all the way to 70%, so I looked into that Saturday. Turns out I just wasn't pressing the pedal down all the way. He had me verify the TB plates were opening all the way too and they were. He also made some adjustments to the logging software so we can get more info next time.

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Re: Build thread

Postby speedjunkie » Wed Sep 02, 2020 9:14

I'm so livid right now.

The TPMS kit I bought from Phoenix Automotive was about $20 more than what I would have paid on Amazon, and I paid extra to have it shipped through FedEx, hoping it would get here earlier. I bought it last Thursday. I checked Friday morning, not shipped yet. I checked Monday and it had a shipping label created but hadn't been dropped off yet. I emailed them today and told them if it hadn't been shipped yet that I wanted a refund. So they shipped it today and said it's already in transit. No bitch, you JUST shipped it today and only after I had to ask about it. How many damn days would I have been waiting if I hadn't emailed?!

I found the batteries at Batterymart.com and bought them Saturday. I checked tracking with them as well, nothing until today...after I had emailed them asking about the status. They also didn't ship the batteries until after I had already emailed. WTF is with these companies?! So now this weekend is shot because I won't get any of this stuff until next week, and I was trying to do a fun drive this weekend. Ugh.

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Re: Build thread

Postby speedjunkie » Sun Sep 06, 2020 9:14

I got the batteries on Saturday so I put them in that afternoon around 315 and I messed up one of the contacts while trying to get the battery in. The solder broke, so I had to resolder it. Then while I was removing the sensor from the wheel I lost one of the washers so that took me a bit to find also. It took me a bit to find a place to mount and balance them but I finally found a place. I drove on them for the first time today and I must say I'm very pleased with these tires so far. I had read reviews and people said they were really loud, but I didn't hear anything at all. Maybe it's because my car is too loud and it's masking it, but I feel like these are more quiet than my AD08s. I haven't had a chance to test their grip yet but supposedly they're really good, so Andy says. And they were about half the price of other tires in this size.

I haven't received the new TPMS kit yet, but I'll probably install the receiver and see if it'll work with my current sensors, since they're on the same frequency. We'll see. But if not, no biggie, I can wait until next time.

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Re: Build thread

Postby speedjunkie » Fri Oct 02, 2020 9:14

I didn't realize I hadn't updated this for a bit.

I raced on the new tires last Sunday. Holy SHIIIIT. These tires are RIDICULOUSLY sticky. Especially for the cost. I guessed that my fastest time of the day would be a low 50s. My very first lap was 48.6, then 48.1, then 47.5. But that was the fastest I ran. And honestly I wasn't pushing it as hard as I could have. I'm not sure I reached the full potential of the tires, Andy says I wasn't pushing them to the limit. IDK, we'll see. I just know they're my new favorite. The fastest times of the day were in the 43 second range, and that was from a VERY built Lotus, and a very built MR2, and a Porsche GT3 driven by a very good driver. So I feel pretty good about this. I didn't even drive that great either.

And I think my suspension setup is finally pretty much perfect. I never had any issues with oversteer or understeer, and I set the front struts damping quite a bit higher just so the body wouldn't roll quite as much.

As for the new TPMS kit, what a joke. I tried installing the app on my stereo and it wouldn't work. On top of that, the batteries definitely were not replaceable in the sensors, unless you melt the sealant on the back and do it that way, which I'm not even 100% sure would work, just going based off some youtube videos. And all that after the shipping issues I dealt with in the beginning. I contacted the company and they said the app only works on their stereos. Oh ok, so when I asked if I needed anything other than this kit, and if the batteries were replaceable, and you said no and yes respectively, you were lying through your teeth?! From what I understand their stereos are shit too, and they don't even make any that fit a regular din or double din slot, not that I'd want one anyway. So I asked about a refund and they sent me a link to fill out some information. I did that, no response. I emailed them asking about it, again no response. I'm wondering if I can file a Paypal dispute. Might be too late. I gave them a bad review but it never showed up on their site. Go figure. I posted on facebook about it too. Such a crock.

I'm still having boost issues but for the moment I'm not going to worry about it. I really need to find some cheap tires to put on my old wheels so I can put them back on for the winter and bring my nice tires inside.

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Re: Build thread

Postby speedjunkie » Thu Oct 29, 2020 9:14

I saw a friend on facebook post about some adapter brackets to use an RX-8 AC compressor on the FD, so I bought a set. I kinda jumped the gun, because now I'm not so sure I even want to do the swap lol.

Pros:
-They're plentiful
-They're cheaper (at least a little cheaper)
-I think it's a little lighter, but I'll have to weigh them both to see how much

Cons:
-The brackets put the compressor out a bit farther, closer to the frame, plus it looks strange having a bigger gap between it and the engine block
-Because it sits out further, it's harder to find lines that are compact enough to not hit the frame, and they're hard enough to find with the correct angles already.
-The pulley is only four ribs, and the stock compressor pulley is six ribs. I don't want to use a four rib belt on six rib pulleys (crank, PS).

However, I found a six rib pulley, but I'm not sure how much it costs, and I still have the issue of the compressor sitting closer to the frame and further from the engine. Also, I think that compressor and pulley combo might be used on the 2001 Toyota Corolla, but I'm not 100% sure of that yet.

Being that I'm looking at different mounting options for this compressor already, I started thinking about trying to use a compressor from any other car as long as it's cheap and comes with the right size pulley already. More to come.

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Re: Build thread

Postby speedjunkie » Mon Dec 21, 2020 9:14

Haven't touched the car really for quite a while, but I did buy myself something for my birthday after I drove Miguel's MR2 and liked his steering wheel. It's a Viilante Leggera, and I noticed that after I got it, I found the exact same wheel on Grip Royal's page haha. It does seem pretty sturdy though. The metal is even thicker than on the Nardi and the ring has more girth. I'm not sure I like the ring around the horn button, but the button just pops out if I don't use it. It doesn't look as bad in person as it does in pics, but if I keep it, I might see if someone can mill me a rotor shaped one in the hopes of making it look better. But I'd rather just use the button. And if I really had my way, I'd see if someone could mill a button assembly that mounts between the wheel and hub and is completely subdued into the horn button cavity. I think that would be really clean. They also make horn buttons that bolt in where this ring does, so it's all one assembly. I think this wheel is a tad deeper than the Nardi Deep Corn also.

Image20201221_220531 by Eric Jausel, on Flickr
Image20201221_220523 by Eric Jausel, on Flickr
Image20201221_220511 by Eric Jausel, on Flickr

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Re: Build thread

Postby speedjunkie » Mon Jan 04, 2021 9:14

https://www.rx7club.com/group-buy-cente ... b-1148546/

Last week I bought some of these LCA camber adjustment lock rings. I never knew these existed and I never realized it was an issue. Apparently these are made for the Miata too and someone on 7club decided to make some for the FD. So theoretically, I should never need an alignment again unless I bend or break something or want a different alignment. At the very least, these will help keep the alignment correct under aggressive cornering.

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Re: Build thread

Postby speedjunkie » Sun Feb 07, 2021 9:14

https://www.tein.co.jp/e/products/edfc_active_pro.html

I've been looking into trying to add a TEIN EDFC to my coilovers. I've actually been interested in this for several years, but it fell by the wayside. There used to just be the EDFC and EDFC II, both of which are basically just a way to adjust the damping of your suspension from inside the car. Now there are the EDFC Active and Active Pro, both of which are basically active suspension. The Active Pro obviously is the most advanced of the four of them. It makes changes in 25ms and apparently people really like it. You can have it adjust based on acceleration (front to rear), or side to side for when going around a corner, so the dampers on the compressed side will stiffen automatically. It also has inputs for other data, such as speed and GPS.

The main barrier here is the fact that I don't have TEIN coilovers, and they say they're only compatible with their suspension, which would make sense. I reached out to a guy that rebuilds Ohlins and he said he doesn't believe in EDFC. I was mainly trying to see if Ohlins was working on their own version. Fortune Auto has their own version, but it's still in it's infancy (they have the capability of the first EDFC but the price of the most advanced Active Pro, not a good look lol).

Yesterday I went to Parker to meet up with Brett Mayden and measure the motors for his EDFC Active Pro kit. I measured the Ohlins when I got home and I was actually surprised to see that the Ohlins might be too small for the EDFC motors, which is exactly the opposite of what I was expecting. TEIN makes a few different size motors, with different thread pitch for attaching to the top of the strut and at least one other measurement I'm unsure of. So now I'm on the hunt for the smaller motors I guess, but we'll see where this ends up. I believe I can get them to work with the Ohlins as far as fitment, but my concern after that is if they'll damage the struts or vice versa. I'd be happy enough with being able to change the damping from inside the car, but the interacting portion of those motors is even bigger, and I'd be happier with active suspension if I'm being honest. More to come on that.

I still haven't installed the LCA camber lock rings, but I'm hoping to do that soon.

Another place I stopped yesterday was at Dave Lowry's house in Castle Rock. He has an FD and a Viper RT-10 also. I had no idea the Viper would be more cramped than the FD. That took me by surprise. It was REALLY tight in there. But now I must have one. LOL

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Re: Build thread

Postby speedjunkie » Thu Feb 25, 2021 9:14

I've been doing a lot of work on the interior at the moment. Mainly a few little things I've been wanting to do but wanted to do them all at once. But first...

These are the locking LCA washers I still haven't installed yet haha.
Image20210220_160402 by Eric Jausel, on Flickr

The interior project started with having the idea of adding a spring under the shift boot to hold it up instead of sagging down and showing part of the shift linkage.
Image20210221_220110 by Eric Jausel, on Flickr

The shifter panel has been popping up on the driver's front corner and it drives me crazy. I widened the metal tab and did a test fit and I think it'll work, but I have to do the other side too.
Image20210221_220012 by Eric Jausel, on Flickr

I bought a wireless charging phone holder on Amazon for the Pathfinder and it's awesome, so I got one for Jewel's car a couple years ago too. She didn't use it and I didn't either because, as I just discovered, for some reason you have to remove the phone case for that one to charge it, and it's the same exact holder. It has a fantastic suction cup mount, but I didn't want to mount it on the left side of the wheel and that seemed to be the only good place, and I like as little stuck to the windshield as possible. Then I remembered I cut a slit in the dash between the stereo surround and the soft part so I could mount the Power FC Commander and it looked like it was floating. I was very happy with how that turned out, so I decided to mount the phone holder there now, and it came out pretty well. Not perfect, but good enough. I haven't fit the panels back yet to make sure I can run the wire through there, but it's small enough I think it should work.
Image20210221_220032 by Eric Jausel, on Flickr

It's pushing the plastic panel over a little far, but I don't think it will be too noticeable. I'll shave it down some if need be, but I think that might make it too loose and floppy in there. Right now it's a pretty solid mount.
Image20210217_181506 by Eric Jausel, on Flickr
Image20210217_181712 by Eric Jausel, on Flickr

I thought about cutting the knob off the back to make it a nice, flat install again, but I decided to use that as the way to mount it and also this way I can still use it on the regular mount in a different car if I choose to. They're only $30 so I should have just cut it off, but I couldn't bring myself to do that. It feels wasteful to me. I gave it some clearance so it wouldn't rest against the soft part of the dash, but I added some foam just in case. I had other phone mounts from years past that I probably could have used and cut up, but I liked that this one is a wireless charger too, and I don't know where I put the old ones anyway haha. The big washer is there as a shim to give the mount enough depth for the nut to tighten down.
Image20210217_181431 by Eric Jausel, on Flickr

This is the power adapter I got off Amazon to feed the charger/holder. It came with a micro USB end so it hooks up directly to the charger. The cord is a little short, I would have preferred to mount it further back on the tunnel a bit, but it'll work. I had bought another one of these off Amazon (you'll see in a later photo) to power the two USB ports in the shifter panel and that one came with two USB cables coming out of it, so it worked out great. That one is no longer available on Amazon, but there are a ton of them on there that are exactly alike. I have all of these running straight off the battery so they are always getting power, even if I have the CB for the battery popped.
Image20210221_215842 by Eric Jausel, on Flickr

Another project I've been wanting to do for a while was wire in a relay so that my fog lights will turn on independent of the headlights, but with the parking lights so there will still be a warning if they're left on. I'm doing this for when I eventually install the FEED combo lights. I got some connectors from Corsa-Technic and made adapter harnesses so it can all be reversed easily. Using this write-up http://www.fd3s.net/fog_light_rewiring.html I pulled the power wire from the foglight connector and used the ashtray light connector (I don't need the light anymore anyway since the JDM ashtray doesn't have a port for it) so it's getting power directly from that instead of the headlight circuit. And it worked great.
Image20210221_215716 by Eric Jausel, on Flickr
Image20210221_215732 by Eric Jausel, on Flickr
Image20210221_215814 by Eric Jausel, on Flickr

I swapped all the bulbs to LED, but I might swap the orange ones back to halogen because they blink fast now when the blinker is on (but not when using hazards), and I'm not sure if I want to keep it like that.
Image20210221_214316 by Eric Jausel, on Flickr

When Chris installed the ECU and all that, he used the exhaust overheat light on the shifter panel as an alert when there has been an error in the ECU. Basically, it flashes ALL THE TIME because every time I drive it there is an error in the ECU and it corrects itself. So I decided to put a switch on it so I can leave it off most of the time but be able to turn it on if I want to see if there was an error. I got connectors from Corsa for this too. I love making these little harnesses and I love soldering now, so I look for any reason to solder something or make a harness lol.
Image20210221_215951 by Eric Jausel, on Flickr

I've never liked how far my stereo sticks out, and someone on facebook mentioned that it should fit far enough back in the pocket to be flush. I've looked into this before and never could get it to go far enough back in there so I just accepted it, but I had never measured the depth of the pocket and the depth of the stereo and it got me thinking again. After some digging and moving things around, I realized the foam-wrapped, stock harnesses in the upper left corner of the pocket were in the way. After I moved all that out of the way, it goes all the way back in there. When I installed the stereo, I just bought a cheap install kit off Amazon or eBay and I've realized that if I want to get the stereo flush, the trim ring won't go on, so I bought the legit Pioneer install kit and it should be here in a couple days.
Image20210221_220041 by Eric Jausel, on Flickr

I used my label maker to label most of the extra wiring I installed, but I never liked how I did it. I had to put them on like little flags and they weren't very durable either. We've been labeling a bunch of cables at work and I figured out how to do the wrap, so I made some and installed those last night. I have a few more to do also.
Image2021-02-25_08-57-56 by Eric Jausel, on Flickr

And speaking of wiring, I realized that I never installed a fuse on wires I installed unless they came with whatever product I installed, and I decided to change that. I don't care for the single, in-line fuse blocks, but that's what I've normally used. But this time I decided to make it a little cleaner and do a block of fuses. I bought a couple of these 6 fuse blocks https://ceautoelectricsupply.com/produc ... tribution/ (one for constant 12v and one for 12v through the CB), but they're too big to both fit in the battery compartment, so I bought a couple of these but on Amazon https://www.delcity.net/store/ATO/ATC-C ... HEEALw_wcB.

I changed out the ebrake sensor too, since I broke the old one and got a good one off Bobby's car. I figured I might as well while I'm in there.

Oh, and the doors were creaking like crazy opening and closing, so I sprayed some WD40 on the hinges and door handles. WHAT A DIFFERENCE. I can't believe I've never done that before. The doors used to be fairly difficult to open and close, now I think a slight breeze would move them. And I'm planning on conditioning the leather shift boot and ebrake boot while they're out since the steering wheel is so nice. I've also been thinking about just putting a stock leather shift knob back in and wrapping the ebrake in leather again.

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Re: Build thread

Postby speedjunkie » Mon Mar 01, 2021 9:14

Finished with the projects tonight.

The battery box is looking a little cramped now haha. I moved the 300a CB to the passenger side more so the cable wouldn't interfere with the fuse blocks. The box on the left is for 12v from the 300a breaker, and the box on the right is for constant 12v power (to the stereo, the two USB ports in the shifter panel, and the wireless charger I just installed).
Image20210228_235125 by Eric Jausel, on Flickr
Image20210228_235129 by Eric Jausel, on Flickr

The stereo isn't completely flush, but it's close enough, and way better than it was. I really had to mash on the stereo to get it this far back anyway. A guy on youtube got his all the way flush, but I'm not sure how he got his so far back with all the wires in the way. He has a Pioneer also but it's a different model, so maybe his isn't quite as deep. IDK.
Image20210228_235141 by Eric Jausel, on Flickr

How it all is currently. The shifter panel is finally flush, and I couldn't be happier. And the shift boot is no longer sagging. I do still need to get the e-brake handle rewrapped and do a very good clean on the floor lol.
Image2021-03-01_09-37-31 by Eric Jausel, on Flickr
Image20210301_201803 by Eric Jausel, on Flickr

ZK Motoring in Pakistan is working on some mirror bases for the Ganador mirrors to make them work for LHD. He's selling the first five sets for $275 so people can test fit them, and I was the first one to sign up lol. Although there is a 3D printed set of mirrors on eBay already for about $500 that I didn't know about until recently, so I've thought about trying those instead. We'll see.

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Re: Build thread

Postby speedjunkie » Sat Mar 06, 2021 9:14

I finally installed the LCA lock rings tonight. THEORETICALLY I should only have to get one more alignment. Theoretically lol. I was lead to believe I might have to grind them down a bit to get them to fit, but they all went in with no grinding at all. I did have to lightly tap one in, but that was barely anything. And they fit super tight, which is great.
Image2021-03-06_10-17-51 by Eric Jausel, on Flickr

I also looked for the source of the knocking noise again while I was under the car. I may have found the cause, but I've learned to not get my hopes up lol.


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