Build thread

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speedjunkie
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Re: Build thread

Postby speedjunkie » Fri Jan 27, 2023 9:14

I've been talking with my buddy in Texas that let me use his Syvecs for testing. We've been talking about my issues with water injection, and I can't believe I didn't think of this before.

He was saying the reason it fried my ECU is because I need a driver for the solenoid, and it's a common problem with water injection systems. I was looking up drivers just now and found this Holley driver, that looks exactly like the FJO driver I used to use (https://www.modularheadshop.com/i-24866 ... odule.html), and it occurred to me that I'm trying to use basically the same kind of system, but I haven't had a driver to pulse the solenoid, which is needed because a relay isn't enough to do it and I wasn't even using a relay anyway as it was going straight into the ECU. It's no wonder it fried. I'm going to call Rodney at ProMeth tomorrow to discuss what will fix my WI issues. I'm told he used to work for FJO so he should know exactly what I need.

I had heard about needing a solid state relay but then heard about needing a driver. At the moment I'm thinking this would fit the bill, but we'll see.
https://usrallyteam.com/index.php?main_ ... ts_id=2018

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speedjunkie
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Re: Build thread

Postby speedjunkie » Mon Jan 30, 2023 9:14

I picked up the smaller Wilwood proportioning valve and quickly realized it was garbage after the fitting galled the threads.
Image20230121_134724 by Eric Jausel, on Flickr

I figured out where I wanted to mount a valve and ordered a different style. I started making the bracket for it before I even ordered it, but waited to finish it until I got it. This is where it will sit, hopefully. I haven't verified that it won't hit the firewall.
Image20230128_180313 by Eric Jausel, on Flickr

After some more trimming and finishing, this is how it turned out.
Image20230128_182744 by Eric Jausel, on Flickr
Image20230128_182758 by Eric Jausel, on Flickr

I LOVE a good crimp. I can't believe I waited so long to get legit crimpers. Just a comparison between trying to crimp with cheap crimpers or pliers...
Image20230130_183717 by Eric Jausel, on Flickr

...vs legit crimpers
Image20230130_183731 by Eric Jausel, on Flickr

Here are the new extension harnesses for the SPA gauges, so far. I'm waiting to add the connectors on the other end until I do the ones on the SPA wiring in the car, and I'm waiting until it warms up to do those.
Image20230130_183746 by Eric Jausel, on Flickr

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Dwduc
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Re: Build thread

Postby Dwduc » Thu Feb 02, 2023 9:14

Maybe I missed it in the threads, are you monitoring brake line pressures and wheel speeds? or just tuning by feel?

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Re: Build thread

Postby speedjunkie » Thu Feb 02, 2023 9:14

I was planning on just tuning by feel lol. Basically just a lot of hard stops until I get it to not lock up either front or rear and hopefully still be happy with the braking distance. I was thinking about putting it on the front brake lines since the fronts lock up currently, or if I had to, install one on the front and the rears, but I would hope I don't need to do that.

Last night I finished the extension harnesses for the gauges. I may have gotten the wrong connectors for this though. I was only going based on the size, something small enough to route through the dash. I hadn't thought about them being a pain to disconnect, and I really need them to be easier. I bought a terminal removal tool on Amazon for the Molex mini fit connectors, so I could have kept this style, but I felt that the wires were breaking too often and I was hoping a different style connector would help with that. The Molex connectors are very easy to get apart, and that's needed since I have my hands full with the gauge hood. Oh well.
Image20230201_234349 by Eric Jausel, on Flickr
Image20230201_234402 by Eric Jausel, on Flickr

I received a good size box of connectors and more crimp tools from Corsa tonight. I finished the wiring to power the fuel pump, and I have connectors for another project in the tank. I have a FEED collector box that fits around the fuel pump and is basically a surge tank. Supposedly it works really well, but there isn't much to it. I've had this since 2017 but didn't feel it would work very well since I had an extra pump taking up space better used for fuel. Anyhoo, the fuel level sensor bolts directly to the fuel collector box, whereas normally it stays mounted to the fuel pump hanger. So I needed to add connectors to the fuel level sensor wiring for when I need to remove the hanger again so the level sensor can stay mounted to the collector box. I'm really hoping this collector box solves all my fuel surge woes.

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speedjunkie
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Re: Build thread

Postby speedjunkie » Sat Feb 04, 2023 9:14

I installed the FEED collector box tonight, but I think I'm going to have to go back in and change it.

I did install the connectors to make assembly and disassembly easier.
Image20230204_184231 by Eric Jausel, on Flickr

I think I'm going to have a major issue though.  I got the box pushed back as far as possible, but I think it's still too far forward and causing the filter sock to interfere with the flapper door.  What I might have to do is move the pump to the other hole, hopefully that will get it far enough from the door.
Image20230204_191258 by Eric Jausel, on Flickr

I had a straight fitting on the hose and it felt like the hose was hitting the box, so I added a 90 to divert it.
Image20230204_202420 by Eric Jausel, on Flickr

I safety wired the box to the stock plastic box, but the right rear corner wire I twisted too much before attaching it to the box and now I'm not able to get it tight enough, so that end of the box slides a bit side to side. I don't think it will be an issue though, and I might want it to shift a little.
Image20230204_201309 by Eric Jausel, on Flickr
Image20230204_201316 by Eric Jausel, on Flickr

I was having issues with the float falling off the level sensor, so I remedied that lol.
Image20230204_191004 by Eric Jausel, on Flickr

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speedjunkie
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Re: Build thread

Postby speedjunkie » Mon Feb 06, 2023 9:14

I changed the location of the return hose last night and made one of the brake lines for the new MC setup. The Eastwood kit does some REALLY nice flares. This line is a little longer than it needs to be, but I'll cut it shorter if these flares leak.
Image20230205_123217 by Eric Jausel, on Flickr
Image20230205_163858 by Eric Jausel, on Flickr
Image20230205_180256 by Eric Jausel, on Flickr
Image20230205_180301 by Eric Jausel, on Flickr

We've had a cat visit us every so often, and Saturday she decided to be my garage companion for a while. Smokey has tried to meet her, but she isn't cool with it.
Image20230205_124854 by Eric Jausel, on Flickr

I also just discovered one reason for my raw fuel smell in one of the pics on the last post. I never noticed the broken nipple on the vacuum tank.
Image20230204_201316 by Eric Jausel, on Flickr

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speedjunkie
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Re: Build thread

Postby speedjunkie » Sat Feb 11, 2023 9:14

I started pulling the separator tank out so I could fix the nipple and noticed there was a second nipple broken off. When I finally got the box out, I discovered that it's cracked almost all the way around, and I'm not sure how I missed it because you can tell in the pic above.
Image20230211_144839 by Eric Jausel, on Flickr
Image20230211_144843 by Eric Jausel, on Flickr
Image20230211_144850 by Eric Jausel, on Flickr

Apparently the 95 and later FDs didn't have this separator, so I picked up a brass tee to replace it. I tested the check valves and I believe they need to be replaced also.

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speedjunkie
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Re: Build thread

Postby speedjunkie » Thu Feb 16, 2023 9:14

Things have gotten a little out of hand, but hear me out...lol
Image2023-02-16_08-52-49 by Eric Jausel, on Flickr

I decided to remake the long line that runs across the engine bay so I could bend the ends a little closer to the corner of the bay and hide it better, and to use stainless fittings so they don't rust if I do ever move to Florida lol. And to remove the line I needed to remove the brake booster. And I might paint it while it's out too.

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Re: Build thread

Postby speedjunkie » Mon Feb 20, 2023 9:14

These things took longer than I expected, but it needed to be done. Now I won't have to pull the whole sensor cable if one of them dies. The one that is shrink wrapped is for the air temp coming into the turbo, but I'm going to install a bung in the IC pipe from the turbo to IC, and it's going over the passenger front wheel, along with a harness for the boost solenoid and the turbo speed sensor. I prefer this way so they don't run next to the turbo like last time. The other three will be covered with Raychem DR-25 heat shrink since they'll be going over the downpipe and the Raychem is heat rated.
Image20230219_202206 by Eric Jausel, on Flickr

The old EGT sensors had some signs of melting, so I covered these in spark plug heat wrap that I had left over from years ago.
Image20230220_001109 by Eric Jausel, on Flickr

The prop valve has more space than I thought. This was with it turned all the way out too.
Image20230220_130240 by Eric Jausel, on Flickr

When I was starting to make the new brake lines, I noticed some differences. The new one was a little easier to bend, so I checked the wall thickness. The old one is only .001" thicker, so maybe it's the material of the line. I believe I bought the old coil of line from Advance Auto, so that's where I bought the new one. I thought about checking around for thicker line, but I decided there wasn't enough difference between the two to worry about it. I hope I'm right haha.
Image20230220_140126 by Eric Jausel, on Flickr
Image20230220_144234 by Eric Jausel, on Flickr

This is how it sits currently. I got the long line made and the bends are tighter so it sits closer to the corner.
Image20230220_210334 by Eric Jausel, on Flickr

I'm having a hard time deciding how to route the last line, from the front end of the MC to the tee fitting. I've been thinking about running it through the middle of the other line, but I think it could be done classier, more OEM looking.
Image20230220_210450 by Eric Jausel, on Flickr

I like how the rear brake line turned out, how it hugs the brake booster. I'd kinda like to do the front line like that too, but It would almost have to run in the middle of the other line.
Image20230220_210637 by Eric Jausel, on Flickr

I also found coolant seeping from the heater hose. Ugh.

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Re: Build thread

Postby speedjunkie » Thu Feb 23, 2023 9:14

I ordered a ProMeth PM75 water meth pump from Redline Race Parts. This one has a built in pressure relief so I can run it all the time without worrying about damaging the system. I got the solid state relay from Haltech for the water meth injection solenoid. Still thinking about possibly getting a different solenoid, something that doesn't pull as much amperage. Although I'm not sure yet how much the Holley solenoid pulls.

I finished the brake lines last night. Hopefully they don't leak lol. I won't be testing them for another week or two because it's easier to swap out the water meth pump without the brake booster in place. It's also easier to get to the fuel lines, so I'm tempted to go ahead and make the larger hard lines, if it weren't for the cost. It's about an extra $500 I don't need to spend right now. Anyway, here are the brake lines.
Image2023-02-23_05-29-58 by Eric Jausel, on Flickr
Image2023-02-23_05-30-12 by Eric Jausel, on Flickr

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Re: Build thread

Postby speedjunkie » Tue Mar 07, 2023 9:14

I decided to tackle the coolant leak. I noticed the clamp on the engine end was a little loose, DOH! But I had already started the project to swap to a hard line. I looked at hundreds of cars in the salvage yard this past weekend for a hard line that would work, but realized that it must be a rotary specific thing, and most likely an FD specific thing. I picked up an extra hard line from Jason Kaiser (the one that runs along the firewall behind the engine) and I shortened it and had it welded last night by Nick. I have to get some hoses for it and then I'll drill any needed holes in the mounting tabs and wrap it in heat barrier. I thought about having it nickel plated like the other lines but it doesn't seem worth it since I'm going to cover it anyway. I had cut the tabs off first thing, then realized I could have used one of them right where it was, DOUBLE DOH! So Nick brazed those back on too.
Image20230307_211615 by Eric Jausel, on Flickr

I also dropped off the IC pipe to Nick and he added a bung to the bottom of the pipe for the EGT (air temp) sensor so I can swap it between the turbo inlet and turbo outlet, depending on which one I want to monitor. I should have just bought the thermocouple amp that had 8 inputs and I could have added it permanently. Oh well, you live and learn. I don't really NEED to monitor either one all the time anyway, I just want it for logging gee whiz info, and see how effective the IC is.
Image20230307_211601 by Eric Jausel, on Flickr

I've been getting most of the connectors I need and heat shrink and all that to build the harness, so I decided to heat shrink the SPA wiring instead of using the corrugated plastic tubing, that way it's smaller and I can hide it easier. Then I realized the gauge wires are so small and the terminals I got with the connectors are probably too big, so I ordered smaller ones that should get here by the end of this week.
Image20230307_231422 by Eric Jausel, on Flickr

I bought a Prometh pump because they say it has an internal pressure relief, but it looks pretty much identical to the Snow Performance pump, so now I'm wondering. I guess I'll go ahead and install it and see what happens. I'm planning on getting a Prometh solenoid too because it's only .7amp max, and the Holley solenoid is 30amp! This way I won't have to use an SSR. I'm planning on most likely getting a driver for both the pump and solenoid though, or at least the solenoid.
Image20230307_223605 by Eric Jausel, on Flickr

I did pick up a heat shield from a Mercedes at the salvage yard, for free.99. I'm going to see if I can use it between the turbo and the strut tower. I'm kinda over the gold tape. I also looked for a SSR to PWM the fuel pump based on Jason's recommendation. He got his from a mid-2000s Dodge, so I looked at the Caliber and some other cars. I couldn't find where it was on the car so I Goggled it and discovered those SSRs don't last long, so I'm going to shelf that idea and maybe address it in the future. The stock fuel pump resistor may be old tech, but it's survived almost 30 years, and I'm going for reliability over new tech, as much as I love new tech. Plus it's easier for the ECU install haha.

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Re: Build thread

Postby speedjunkie » Sat Mar 11, 2023 9:14

I've received a few more parts recently, including the injectors and fuel filter. The injectors and fuel rail was an easy win, at least the first night, since I didn't notice an issue I was having until the next night. But first, a comparison of the injectors. Really the injectors are the same size, but the hats on top have changed. I'm not sure why they started making them shorter.
Image20230309_183451 by Eric Jausel, on Flickr

Anyway, I got the rail in, and then yesterday I realized the rail was hitting the oil catch can hard line. So I had to beat it down some, now there is some clearance.
Image20230310_215737 by Eric Jausel, on Flickr

That night kicked my ass though, because after the fuel rail I crimped some terminals onto the SPA gauge wires, only to discover I forgot to put on the seals first, and I didn't have enough terminals to do it over again. Ugh. Then I tried to install the connector onto the water injection pump, only to discover the wires were too big for the terminals. I asked Chris and he told me that those terminals are true to Tefzel wire size, which is wrapped tighter than normal wire. UGH! So now I'm waiting on more connectors and terminals, and fuel hose, and the pump and solenoid drivers, and some other things.

I wrapped the coolant pipe with heat barrier to assist my cooling system as much as possible, since the metal pipe will be right next to the turbo. And I got a hose from O'Reilly and cut it into the pieces I need. Worked out pretty well.
Image20230310_215233 by Eric Jausel, on Flickr
Image20230310_211622 by Eric Jausel, on Flickr
Image20230310_211630 by Eric Jausel, on Flickr

When I had Nick weld the tabs back on the pipe, I told him to weld the front tab anywhere because I needed to drill a hole in the frame and install a rivnut anyway. Well, wouldn't you know that SOB is DIRECTLY over a huge hole. UGGGHHHH! LOL What are the odds?
Image20230310_212259 by Eric Jausel, on Flickr

Check out the size difference between the old fuel filters and the new one. Wow! I thought the F750 was a lot bigger than it is. Oh well, I love that it has a gauge to show you when you need to change the filter, and you can change it without removing the whole filter, and numerous other benefits to this filter.
Image20230311_114948 by Eric Jausel, on Flickr

I made a mount for it today also. I wanted to mount it low so it was easy to mount and easy to get to, but then it's hanging too low and might get damaged by road debris. But if I mount it higher, it's more difficult to access and more difficult to install, but safer from debris. I didn't want to make a bracket for it again, I wanted to mount it directly to the subframe, but this was easier and put it at a perfect height, a compromise between the two options. I still hate the bracket though lol.
Image20230311_180235 by Eric Jausel, on Flickr

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Re: Build thread

Postby speedjunkie » Thu Mar 16, 2023 9:14

I got the fittings for the fuel filter and put them on a couple days ago, and I thought I could use the lines I had but one is a bit too long (I was still able to get it to work) and the other is just too short. Luckily I can reuse the Fragola fittings so I just ordered some new olives for them and I have some more line I can cut up and use. This is temporary anyway. I'm testing to see if 6AN lines work well enough or if I'll need to step up to 8an and make the hardlines. I'm thinking I might need to step up to 8AN if I want to run ethanol at some point. And hopefully I won't need to go back to two fuel pumps since I've gone through so much to get back to using just one haha. If I don't need 8AN, I'll most likely swap out the line itself because what I have isn't conductive, I don't think anyway. The line I picked up for the fuel rails is conductive though, and that came in a couple days ago as well.

I got quite a bit done tonight, finally a night of wins. I got the heat barrier for the coolant line so I put that in, and I put the heat barrier on the other coolant line just above as well. And I got the terminals for the SPA gauge wiring so I put those on as well, and then ran the wiring and secured it to the brake line that runs across the engine bay. I put the connector on the water injection pump and installed that, and since I got that and the gauge wiring done I installed the brake booster.
Image20230316_193636 by Eric Jausel, on Flickr
Image20230316_193644 by Eric Jausel, on Flickr
Image20230316_190939 by Eric Jausel, on Flickr
Image20230316_194146 by Eric Jausel, on Flickr

I waited to bench bleed the master cylinder and install it partly because it will be easier to install the oil pressure sensor without it, but I bought the oil pressure and fuel pressure sensors two or three weeks ago from http://www.race-parts.com and haven't heard a peep from the company. No emails saying they got my order, and certainly nothing about shipping it. I've emailed them as well with no response. I was talking to one of them about a month ago to see which sensors I needed. I'm going to call tomorrow, and if I can't reach them, I'm going to dispute the charge with my credit card and order some AEM sensors. This doesn't happen to me super often but when it does, it boils my blood.

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speedjunkie
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Re: Build thread

Postby speedjunkie » Sat Mar 18, 2023 9:14

The car REALLY kicked my ass today. I put the brake master cylinder and lines in anyway. I bench bled the MC, as much as possible anyway, then put it all in and started bleeding the rear brakes. I'm not sure if they're actually bled very well, because I noticed at one point that the tee fitting for the front brake lines was leaking fairly bad. It's the fitting on top that goes to the front port on the MC. So I remade the line, even though the first one didn't look bad. Still didn't work, so I went and bought a new tee. That didn't work either, so I made a third line and didn't press so hard on the flaring tool, thinking maybe I was compressing it too much. That one leaked from both ends. UGH, moving in the wrong direction! So I filed the ends flat and tried again. No luck. IDK if maybe the line is either too long or not long enough each time, forcing the line at an angle going into the hole and not seating properly. I'm lost. I don't think I had this much trouble last time even with the shitty flaring tools from the parts stores, and this time I'm using a professional one!

All the lines for the rear brakes aren't leaking at all, so I'm really not sure what's going wrong here.

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speedjunkie
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Re: Build thread

Postby speedjunkie » Thu Mar 23, 2023 9:14

I got all but one fuel line built this weekend and finished the last one last night after getting the fitting I needed. For the rear lines, I bought some olives so I could reuse the fittings, but apparently they aren't compatible because I absolutely wrecked one of them haha. Luckily I had bought a couple extra fittings for the front lines because I wasn't sure which ones I'd need for a couple of them, and I was able to use them for the rear lines. I forgot teflon lines are so flexible. And I didn't realize the rear lines are conductive already as well, so I guess that wrecks my theory of why my lines are so dirty or why I'm losing fuel pressure.

I got the sensor for the oil pressure and it was a HUGE PITA to install because it's 24mm and it's really tight in that spot. I had to remove the coolant temp sensor just so I could get a wrench on it, and then remove the power steering pump because the wrench is so long. I was going to use a socket but I need an extra deep one. I bought one from Autozone to drill out the bottom a little more, but I quickly realized that's a huge waste of time haha.

I'm still waiting for the drivers for the water injection pump and solenoid, then I'll be able to finish the engine harness the whole way. Or I might run that wiring separate so I can remove it and change it if I need to. And I'm still waiting for the front harness. Past that, I think I'm just about ready to reassemble and start.


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