I need to look at it haha
Shine's stuff is almost dead on everytime, in terms of making the rears more bubbled, that requires quite a bit of work to do it correctly. I will say that with rolled fenders you will probably always have a slight line, its almost impossible to get rid of it and keep it looking right with the car.
Paint needed anyone?
- speedjunkie
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Yeah, the body kit and diffuser fit great. Zico said when he fit the body kit on while I was deployed last year that it went right on, no modifications other than drilling mounting holes. I think the diffuser might have been off on one of the sides just SLIGHTLY and it makes it sit just a tad lower on one side than the other, but you can't really tell. And I probably could have fixed that just by drilling one of the holes a little wider.
Actually I don't have a line on any of the stock fenders. We pulled the rear fenders about two inches past stock, but it has the lip now and I think I'd rather have it more bubbled. There is a guy on 7club, his name is supastar bruce, and his fenders are flared how I would like mine but he won't tell anyone how it was done. His is the last one. I had more pics of it but I think my HD has been deleting pics behind my back.
Actually I don't have a line on any of the stock fenders. We pulled the rear fenders about two inches past stock, but it has the lip now and I think I'd rather have it more bubbled. There is a guy on 7club, his name is supastar bruce, and his fenders are flared how I would like mine but he won't tell anyone how it was done. His is the last one. I had more pics of it but I think my HD has been deleting pics behind my back.
Okay yeah, basically to get your fenders to do that there are a few different ways of doing it.
One is welding new metal in, another is taking the burnout rear flares and adding material to them and molding the fenders in smooth with a special resin and bonding system, the other is use a bondo that consists of crushed and ground metal flakes (it spreads similar to bondo, but its metal) I have used this material for deleting sunroofs in cars and never had one crack.
Can be done, IS a total bitch, and WILL take about a week or more to finish properly shaping.
One is welding new metal in, another is taking the burnout rear flares and adding material to them and molding the fenders in smooth with a special resin and bonding system, the other is use a bondo that consists of crushed and ground metal flakes (it spreads similar to bondo, but its metal) I have used this material for deleting sunroofs in cars and never had one crack.
Can be done, IS a total bitch, and WILL take about a week or more to finish properly shaping.
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[SIZE="5"]Lovely Idol Paintworks[/SIZE]
303-362-3632
[SIZE="5"]Lovely Idol Paintworks[/SIZE]
303-362-3632
- speedjunkie
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Well the way we did it was just stretch the metal as far as we could under the circumstances. However, to try to accomplish the same thing but the way I want, we'd have to cut the "ceiling" out of the wheel well along the fender, because that part meets the fender so we couldn't extend the roller any higher. I'm not sure if you get what I'm talking about. But you've had an FD before so I'm sure you've seen it yourself. But this is only if we could stretch the metal up there more too.
I've thought about using the Burnout flares in the back, but I don't like how they have the distinctive edge, I'd rather it was rounded off. So I figure I could still try those and just sand down the edge to make it more rounded.
I'd rather not mold anything in because of what I'd always heard about the body flexing and cracking the mold. But I guess if you use the metal flakes, maybe that won't happen. I'd like to try stretching the metal again if possible, but I'm still not sure about cutting the part out of the wheel well inside either. Decisions...
Either way, if it would only take a week to finish shaping, that still blows away the timeline for the shop where I had it LOL.
Sorry for hijacking your thread haha. We should probably take this to PM I guess.
I've thought about using the Burnout flares in the back, but I don't like how they have the distinctive edge, I'd rather it was rounded off. So I figure I could still try those and just sand down the edge to make it more rounded.
I'd rather not mold anything in because of what I'd always heard about the body flexing and cracking the mold. But I guess if you use the metal flakes, maybe that won't happen. I'd like to try stretching the metal again if possible, but I'm still not sure about cutting the part out of the wheel well inside either. Decisions...
Either way, if it would only take a week to finish shaping, that still blows away the timeline for the shop where I had it LOL.
Sorry for hijacking your thread haha. We should probably take this to PM I guess.
No no its good, this lets everyone else see whats going on, thats the purpose of the thread.
the problem with trying to stretch the fenders more outward is that since you have already stretched them once, they will warp with you going at it again. If I were you, I would get a heater and set it inside the wheel well until EVERYTHING is way hot and see if you can get the actual inner fenders to stretch out more. If that doesn't help, I would suggest bringing it to me but looking at your fitment right now, I would say a touch more stretch before bubbling the fenders would be the way to go just incase later down the road you want to lower the car more or something like that.
the problem with trying to stretch the fenders more outward is that since you have already stretched them once, they will warp with you going at it again. If I were you, I would get a heater and set it inside the wheel well until EVERYTHING is way hot and see if you can get the actual inner fenders to stretch out more. If that doesn't help, I would suggest bringing it to me but looking at your fitment right now, I would say a touch more stretch before bubbling the fenders would be the way to go just incase later down the road you want to lower the car more or something like that.
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[SIZE="5"]Lovely Idol Paintworks[/SIZE]
303-362-3632
[SIZE="5"]Lovely Idol Paintworks[/SIZE]
303-362-3632
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Yes, they wanted to charge me 1200, but I think they also wanted to completely replace the front bumper. I talked to another friend of mine yesterday at the AutoX meet and he said that in order to fix the damage under the fog light you should just be able to heat it and pop the dent out and then sand everything down and repaint. Who knows. I'll let you know about being in Denver next weekend and we can set up a time to meet and get an actual price set.
2004 Mazda3s Hatchback: Totalled
2002 Audi A4 Avant: Sold
2013 Subaru WRX 5-door: Stage 1
2002 Audi A4 Avant: Sold
2013 Subaru WRX 5-door: Stage 1
- speedjunkie
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Chance wrote:No no its good, this lets everyone else see whats going on, thats the purpose of the thread.
the problem with trying to stretch the fenders more outward is that since you have already stretched them once, they will warp with you going at it again. If I were you, I would get a heater and set it inside the wheel well until EVERYTHING is way hot and see if you can get the actual inner fenders to stretch out more. If that doesn't help, I would suggest bringing it to me but looking at your fitment right now, I would say a touch more stretch before bubbling the fenders would be the way to go just incase later down the road you want to lower the car more or something like that.
Yeah I might try another go at it. I'd rather not deal with it though haha. And as it turns out I may be buying a house and not really have the money or time to deal with it for a while anyway haha.
- speedjunkie
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so have not posted in awhile............I also have an off mazda ?.......Do you know anybody that could powder coat my motorcycle wheels?
Need tires, and would like to have it done all at the same time.......Thanks
Need tires, and would like to have it done all at the same time.......Thanks
*CP-e CAI
*Turbo Inlet
*ETS 3.5" TMIC
*SU Test Pipe
*RPM Street Springs
*AeroForce Gauge
*RPM LED Side/Rear Markers
*SU Rear Engine mount
*Turbine Tech Front engine mount
*Cp-e Rear Diff Mount
*TurboSmart MBC
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
*Turbo Inlet
*ETS 3.5" TMIC
*SU Test Pipe
*RPM Street Springs
*AeroForce Gauge
*RPM LED Side/Rear Markers
*SU Rear Engine mount
*Turbine Tech Front engine mount
*Cp-e Rear Diff Mount
*TurboSmart MBC
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
- Renesis Rx
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