Speed3 Airbox

DVC357 · Postby **DVC357** » Thu May 31, 2012 9:14

Oh man,...maybe i'll skip PTP.
Anyone else have any good suppilers out there?

Website · Postby **Shadowden** » Thu May 31, 2012 9:14

I was suprised by the difference motor mounts made in my car. I have a rear motor mount and passenger motor mount. I am unsure how the gen 2s are, but they made a huge difference in shifting in my gen 1. As erod said, it does increaze noise and vibration though. I had my passenger mount in first, so I don't know how much vibration a rmm adds on its own, but I suspect less.

I also put a mazdaspeed accessories short shifter with solid shifter bushings in. A short shifter, bushings, and RMM may be a really good first step for you. I haven't tried a twm myself, but they seem to be a popular short shifter for the 3 and can often be found used as people decided to trade their cars in...there again, with yours being a 2012, they may be less available used, but I don't know. (edit: another option is a short shift plate I know jbarone racing offers one, not sure who else).

With your car, I would look into either a short ram intake or cold air intake. I ended up going short ram because my car is my daily driver. If I didn't daily drive it, I would have gone CAI. My rational for this is that i didn't want snow/slush getting shoved into the filter of the CAI and potentailly knocking it loose allowing debris to get into the intake. In other areas where they get substantially more moisture, people get concerned with hydrolocking their engines. Given our climate, I don't think that is a real issue here. My concern is likely just as much paranoia as well.

DVC357 · Postby **DVC357** » Thu May 31, 2012 9:14

Good thoughts,
Motor mounts will definately be in my top five as well as a
short ram intake.
As far a vibration,...i know it's subjective but i do take a lot of highway trips. Is
it prohibitive on the hwy. In otherwords does it make you crazy from "BUZZ".
on long road trips?

Mortose · Postby **Mortose** » Thu May 31, 2012 9:14

Ok, so, as far as DP goes, as it was said before, you will get higher boost levels, which need more fuel. the stock pump CANNOT keep up with much more than stock boost levels. they will crap out, and your engine can go boom. AutoTech Interals are what I, and MANY other speed owners are running, and the only reported problems stem from issues with instal (put in backwards or not lubed). and again +1 on getting an accessport.

I have an 80 duro JBR rear motor mount with about 2K on it. The only time i get any noticable vibes is at a light with the A/C on. other than that, i don't really notice it at all anymore.

I can tell you that a DP does NOT give you 40hp, as i just installed mine about a month ago. I could tell the difference, but not 40 hp difference. lol.

if your REALLY looking for power, get a pro/e-tune with E-85. that will give you a HUGE boost in power (and a nice big drop in mileage. lol)

Check out edgeautosport.com for parts and stuff. they are going to be local here in a week or two, and carry everything and anything we could want for our cars.

Website · Postby **Shadowden** » Thu May 31, 2012 9:14

DVC357 wrote:Good thoughts,
Motor mounts will definately be in my top five as well as a
short ram intake.
As far a vibration,...i know it's subjective but i do take a lot of highway trips. Is
it prohibitive on the hwy. In otherwords does it make you crazy from "BUZZ".
on long road trips?

No, the vibration is generally at lower rpm and in lower gears, at least for me. As long as my clutch is in, I don't notice it either. I rarely use my AC though and haven't paid attention to vibrations corresponding to the AC.

AuroraAxela · Postby **AuroraAxela** » Thu May 31, 2012 9:14

I call first dibs on any part you replace

KILLER_VIZ · Postby **KILLER_VIZ** » Thu May 31, 2012 9:14

DVC357 wrote:Oh man,...maybe i'll skip PTP.
Anyone else have any good suppilers out there?

Hit up Eric @edgeautosport.com they have or will get anything you want for a reasonable price. I will be running Autotech internals and havent heard anything bad about them.

DVC357 · Postby **DVC357** » Fri Jun 01, 2012 9:14

Hey guys,..Thanks!
After all is said and done,...i'll save my lunch money till the end
of June and then buy an AP and a fuel pump and go from there.
That'll allow me that famous learning curve and might make me more comfortable when i do other things down the road.
I'll let you know if i have take-offs to sell too.
Hey,...anyone hear good or bad about Cpe? They seem to have had bad press 2 years ago, but their pumps seem like just the ticket.

Number2 · Postby **Number2** » Sat Jun 02, 2012 9:14

Erod550 pretty much hit it on the head. I did this also without doing my reseach and put on a downpipe without tuning - it was fun, but the engine would cut...either load cut, or fuel cut. I couldn't tell...all I know is that it didn't last a day on my car. What this does, is when you are running through the gears, the safety measures cut all power, and it feels like hitting a brick wall!

Now I am tuned, I am thinking of doing a downpipe. But be careful, you will need a tune and possibly a fuel pump upgrade.

erod550 wrote:One problem with a downpipe as a first mod is that your boost will increase because of the reduced backpressure. This sounds like a good thing as it increases power, but it also means you'll be running into all sorts of cuts as the ECU will not like the higher boost. So you'll put your foot down and be all happy for about 1 second until your face hits the steering wheel because the ECU saw boost above its acceptable levels and stopped your fun.

I don't agree that a downpipe alone will blow the engine, but you probably won't be able to use the extra power because the ECU will be fighting you the whole way. You need an AP to be able to correct this and raise the thresholds for the cuts, as well as properly tune for having a downpipe. Plus, if you're modding at all, you should really have a way to monitor your car's vitals, which an AP can do for you.

Especially with the picky fuel pumps in the Speeds, you need to keep an eye on your fuel pressure. Adding a significant amount of power (40hp is over 15% increase) can cause the HPFPs to fail and drop fuel pressure while at WOT. At the very least you should be monitoring it, but most likely you will also need to upgrade the pump or at least the internals inside the pump at some point. Better to do these things up front than to wait until something fails and potentially damages the engine.

And yea, older GTs and Roushes are slow. 2011+ is another story though. But you're right, when it snows, the Mustang stays in the garage. That's when I take my Miata out, lol.

Oh and 40hp from the downpipe alone seems a bit high. I had intake, turbo inlet, upgraded top mount intercooler, catless downpipe, and an AP with pro-tune and I gained about 50hp over stock with all of that. With that setup I was around 250hp at the wheels uncorrected. Stock dyno was right at 200hp uncorrected at altitude. And you may not need full engine mounts, but just the rear one will make a huge difference. It cuts down on a lot of wheel hop and makes the shifting much less sloppy, all without adding too much NVH. I had all 3 mounts because I wanted to get rid of all wheel hop, and it did just that, but it also added a ton of noise and vibration.

KILLER_VIZ · Postby **KILLER_VIZ** » Sat Jun 02, 2012 9:14

Now I am tuned, I am thinking of doing a downpipe. But be careful, you will need a tune and possibly a fuel pump upgrade.[/QUOTE]

Fuel Pump for sure! DV our fuel pumps are cam driven and if you over pressurize the pump you have the chance of seizing you engine.

Join http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org and use the search button there too, but be careful what you post there. There is a bunch of assholes who troll and rip newbs apart.

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