Dyno Day
-
SpeedRacer
- Posts: 5030
- Joined: Wed Sep 19, 2007 9:14
- Location: Aurora
- Contact:
Sent an email to R.P. requesting the 8th for CMCZ. I will update the list once i confirm the 8th reservation.
Sorry for the delay. I know we will have a good time when we are there. I talked to the owner again and they are vary excited to open up their shop to the new world (to them) of Mazda.
Sorry for the delay. I know we will have a good time when we are there. I talked to the owner again and they are vary excited to open up their shop to the new world (to them) of Mazda.
05 RX-8 RB revi (ram air) intake. ACT prolight flywheel. Clutch Masters stage 1. Axialflow short shifter. Tinted windows.
255 (f) Dunlap 275® Bridgestone
Up Next: Project RX-8!
255 (f) Dunlap 275® Bridgestone
Up Next: Project RX-8!
- zoomin MP3
- Senior Member
- Posts: 110
- Joined: Wed Dec 05, 2007 9:14
- Location: The Springs
- Contact:
Hey Buffalo, can you put my name in the #4 Alt spot please. I really want to get on a dyno.
EVO CF hood and decklid, [color=#008000][color=blue]BC 2 sideskirts and rear bumper, DG front lip, [/color]iSport CF ADP, Daveb brushed rings, AWR front/rear mm, SLS pass mount, Medieval pullies, K&N CAI w/ ram air tube, TWM ss, mazda racing 4-2-1 header, Magnaflow custom exhaust, AXR "clunk fix", 6K HID, MP3 seatbelt pads, dual pod guage bezel, innovate WB guage, smoked fender lights, smoked/painted tails, drilled/slotted rotors, MSP interior[/color]
Dyno Day In the Springs
@ - Revolutions Performance
Sat March 8th 8:00 a.m. (waiting for final approval from shop)
Price - $45 (incl. lunch)
-HR/Denver meeting at I-25/Lincoln Chillis @ 7 a.m. Leave 7:15-20ish
-Denver meeting @ I-25/Alameda Burgerking 6:40ish and leave to meet HR's @ Chillis. (I'll be there ready to leave at 6:50ish)
1. Tom**
2. Ghost**
3. Huzer**
4. Greek**
5. MS3_Mafia**
6. Colombia28**
7. Greeks Bro**
10. Opac RX**
12. Bertha**
13. Chris**
14. Firestoned**
15. Rich**
8. GoldRocket
9. milehighspeed3
11. Brian
**confirm new 3-8 date
Alt list:
1. RX7 Drifter
2. RX-7 Chris
3. Lightnin McQueen
4.mgs_freak
@ - Revolutions Performance
Sat March 8th 8:00 a.m. (waiting for final approval from shop)
Price - $45 (incl. lunch)
-HR/Denver meeting at I-25/Lincoln Chillis @ 7 a.m. Leave 7:15-20ish
-Denver meeting @ I-25/Alameda Burgerking 6:40ish and leave to meet HR's @ Chillis. (I'll be there ready to leave at 6:50ish)
1. Tom**
2. Ghost**
3. Huzer**
4. Greek**
5. MS3_Mafia**
6. Colombia28**
7. Greeks Bro**
10. Opac RX**
12. Bertha**
13. Chris**
14. Firestoned**
15. Rich**
8. GoldRocket
9. milehighspeed3
11. Brian
**confirm new 3-8 date
Alt list:
1. RX7 Drifter
2. RX-7 Chris
3. Lightnin McQueen
4.mgs_freak
05 RX-8 RB revi (ram air) intake. ACT prolight flywheel. Clutch Masters stage 1. Axialflow short shifter. Tinted windows.
255 (f) Dunlap 275® Bridgestone
Up Next: Project RX-8!
255 (f) Dunlap 275® Bridgestone
Up Next: Project RX-8!
-
the owl
- RX-7 Chris
- Posts: 7800
- Joined: Tue Oct 02, 2007 9:14
- Location: Colorado Springs
- Contact:
I am good for the 8th.
1984 RX-7 GSL-SE [size=84]My restomod project[/SIZE]
1964 Ford Galaxie 500XL flat black w/ white interior, 2 dr fastback, 390 thunderbird, C6 auto, 2500 rpm high stall converter, shift kit, AC, Holley 750 cfm
[size=100]RIP 1983 RX-7[/SIZE]
My Car Blog
-
No-Coast-Punk
Hey guys, I just stumbled across this forum.
I'm one of the owners of the dyno in question.
I'd be happy to answer any questions you have.
The two biggest ones I seem to have seen from skimming this thread so far are
Lowered cars:
We have gotten some pretty low ass stuff on the dyno. Suspension/chassis stuff is rarely the issue. Bumpers/sideskirts on very dumped cars are. We have yet to run into a car that we can't dyno if the front bumper/sideskirts are removed. If you are in doubt bring the car by before hand and we can take a look at it and tell you if it will fly or not. We have done some pretty ricetastic CRX's without having to pull bodywork.
What's up with our dyno:
We did our homework up and down before making a dyno purchase. Between Adam and I we have personally used (not just dyno'd one of our cars on, but hoodwinked a shop owner into actually letting us play with the software/controls for awhile) every type of dyno on the market. We went with a Dyno Dynamics because it simply blows every other dyno on the market out of the water. I could go on for pages on the specifics of why. I'm more than happy to answer any specific questions. It's also the only chassis dyno out there that can deal with some of the exotic AWD systems that Porsche/Lambo/etc. can test on without causing the stability control stuff to have a heart attack.
Does it read "lower" than other dyno's out there?
Absolutely. It's not that our dyno reads "lower" it has more to do with industry standards in this country and every other dyno reading "higher". By far the most popular dyno in this country is a dynojet. Why? They are cheap and have an amazing marketing department. For example. An AWD dynojet costs about 1/3 of what ours does. We were having to beat away their factory reps with a stick. Whereas with our Dyno Dynamics we had to chase down a rep ourselves and deal with a huge headache of actually getting a unit. For a shop that doesn't do their research a Dyno Jet is an obvious choice. The problem is that the Dyno Jets read very high (typically 15-20% higher than what a car really makes). For more on this go here:
http://www.hotrod.com/thehistoryof/113_060...dyno/index.html
The issue is that you have a situation where the majority of the shops in this country are using a dyno that reads high. This has resulted in the power expectations for the entire American aftermarket to be skewed about 15-20% high. The best example I can think of recently is the Ford GT500. Ford rates that car at 500 horsepower. On our dyno they put down ~360. Thing is, if you ask any old hot rodder... the truest measure of horsepower out there is your trap speed in the 1/4 mile. A totally ham fisted driver really can't throw this number off too much. The numbers that come off our dyno jive almost perfectly with 1/4 mile trap speed math. Dyno Jet numbers... not so much. On the GT500 1/4 mile trap speeds are typically 106-108mph. Curb weight is 3950.
http://www.4lo.com/calc/dynocalc.htm
Go there. The math adds up with the numbers off our dyno. This is something we have proven time and time again.
The thing that makes dyno jet numbers extra stupid in Colorado is the correction factors on forced induction cars. SAE correction on our dyno is typically around 30%. Problem is that a turbo or supercharged car really doesn't loose 30% of their power at this altitude. They lose about half that due to pressure ratio in-efficiencies and the like. So for a FI vehicle we take whatever SAE number the dyno calculates at the time and cut it in half (another feature we like about our dyno, with other systems you are stuck with either SAE or no correction). We have found this method to be extremely accurate. We have had customers use our dyno, move to sea level and use an identical Dyno Dynamics unit. Numbers at sea level were 5hp lower on a car that had driven 30,000 miles between testing on our dyno and at sea level. We'd like to think our method is pretty good.
With a dynojet in Colorado you have about 15% more correction on a turbo car than you should have on top of the built in 15% "we suck at math" correction those dyno's have built in.
Personally I'd rather give "low" numbers to a customer and have them stomp someones brains in that is making "much more power".
I'm one of the owners of the dyno in question.
I'd be happy to answer any questions you have.
The two biggest ones I seem to have seen from skimming this thread so far are
Lowered cars:
We have gotten some pretty low ass stuff on the dyno. Suspension/chassis stuff is rarely the issue. Bumpers/sideskirts on very dumped cars are. We have yet to run into a car that we can't dyno if the front bumper/sideskirts are removed. If you are in doubt bring the car by before hand and we can take a look at it and tell you if it will fly or not. We have done some pretty ricetastic CRX's without having to pull bodywork.
What's up with our dyno:
We did our homework up and down before making a dyno purchase. Between Adam and I we have personally used (not just dyno'd one of our cars on, but hoodwinked a shop owner into actually letting us play with the software/controls for awhile) every type of dyno on the market. We went with a Dyno Dynamics because it simply blows every other dyno on the market out of the water. I could go on for pages on the specifics of why. I'm more than happy to answer any specific questions. It's also the only chassis dyno out there that can deal with some of the exotic AWD systems that Porsche/Lambo/etc. can test on without causing the stability control stuff to have a heart attack.
Does it read "lower" than other dyno's out there?
Absolutely. It's not that our dyno reads "lower" it has more to do with industry standards in this country and every other dyno reading "higher". By far the most popular dyno in this country is a dynojet. Why? They are cheap and have an amazing marketing department. For example. An AWD dynojet costs about 1/3 of what ours does. We were having to beat away their factory reps with a stick. Whereas with our Dyno Dynamics we had to chase down a rep ourselves and deal with a huge headache of actually getting a unit. For a shop that doesn't do their research a Dyno Jet is an obvious choice. The problem is that the Dyno Jets read very high (typically 15-20% higher than what a car really makes). For more on this go here:
http://www.hotrod.com/thehistoryof/113_060...dyno/index.html
The issue is that you have a situation where the majority of the shops in this country are using a dyno that reads high. This has resulted in the power expectations for the entire American aftermarket to be skewed about 15-20% high. The best example I can think of recently is the Ford GT500. Ford rates that car at 500 horsepower. On our dyno they put down ~360. Thing is, if you ask any old hot rodder... the truest measure of horsepower out there is your trap speed in the 1/4 mile. A totally ham fisted driver really can't throw this number off too much. The numbers that come off our dyno jive almost perfectly with 1/4 mile trap speed math. Dyno Jet numbers... not so much. On the GT500 1/4 mile trap speeds are typically 106-108mph. Curb weight is 3950.
http://www.4lo.com/calc/dynocalc.htm
Go there. The math adds up with the numbers off our dyno. This is something we have proven time and time again.
The thing that makes dyno jet numbers extra stupid in Colorado is the correction factors on forced induction cars. SAE correction on our dyno is typically around 30%. Problem is that a turbo or supercharged car really doesn't loose 30% of their power at this altitude. They lose about half that due to pressure ratio in-efficiencies and the like. So for a FI vehicle we take whatever SAE number the dyno calculates at the time and cut it in half (another feature we like about our dyno, with other systems you are stuck with either SAE or no correction). We have found this method to be extremely accurate. We have had customers use our dyno, move to sea level and use an identical Dyno Dynamics unit. Numbers at sea level were 5hp lower on a car that had driven 30,000 miles between testing on our dyno and at sea level. We'd like to think our method is pretty good.
With a dynojet in Colorado you have about 15% more correction on a turbo car than you should have on top of the built in 15% "we suck at math" correction those dyno's have built in.
Personally I'd rather give "low" numbers to a customer and have them stomp someones brains in that is making "much more power".
-
SpeedRacer
- Posts: 5030
- Joined: Wed Sep 19, 2007 9:14
- Location: Aurora
- Contact:
- RX-7 Chris
- Posts: 7800
- Joined: Tue Oct 02, 2007 9:14
- Location: Colorado Springs
- Contact:
Great post, good info.
I have driven by your place many times in the last year and a half. I am the Architect working on Housing Authority across the alley.
I have driven by your place many times in the last year and a half. I am the Architect working on Housing Authority across the alley.
1984 RX-7 GSL-SE [size=84]My restomod project[/SIZE]
1964 Ford Galaxie 500XL flat black w/ white interior, 2 dr fastback, 390 thunderbird, C6 auto, 2500 rpm high stall converter, shift kit, AC, Holley 750 cfm
[size=100]RIP 1983 RX-7[/SIZE]
My Car Blog
-
SpeedRacer
- Posts: 5030
- Joined: Wed Sep 19, 2007 9:14
- Location: Aurora
- Contact:
Just got off the phone with RP and the date of March 8th is set. So now we can celebrate and get ready to put down some crazy hp numbers. I am expecting a whole 180. Wow. I know, impressive.
05 RX-8 RB revi (ram air) intake. ACT prolight flywheel. Clutch Masters stage 1. Axialflow short shifter. Tinted windows.
255 (f) Dunlap 275® Bridgestone
Up Next: Project RX-8!
255 (f) Dunlap 275® Bridgestone
Up Next: Project RX-8!
I just want to remind some of you that are going, you can't dyno with studded snow tires on your car.
So pack up those summer slicks before you head down.
So pack up those summer slicks before you head down.
05 RX-8 RB revi (ram air) intake. ACT prolight flywheel. Clutch Masters stage 1. Axialflow short shifter. Tinted windows.
255 (f) Dunlap 275® Bridgestone
Up Next: Project RX-8!
255 (f) Dunlap 275® Bridgestone
Up Next: Project RX-8!
I'm going to state something about the Dyno Dynamics vs. DynoJet... In the end a dyno should be used as a tuning tool and not bragging rights. I think internet car forums have turn dyno numbers into bragging right. We're all guilty of it. I personally go back to the same dyno to show my gain/loses. While I use a DynoJet I do like the Dyno Dynamics since its a load-bearing dyno. Meaning, as its been explained to me, it like driving on the road. All-in-all, those new to dynos, try to used the same dyno everytime you need to.
Turbo Magazine's Dyno Dash; http://www.turbomagazine.com/tech/0306tur_...dash/index.html
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE </div>
Turbo Magazine's Dyno Dash; http://www.turbomagazine.com/tech/0306tur_...dash/index.html
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE </div>
Conclusion
The genesis of this article was to satisfy a curiosity itch we, and many other industry insiders, have. There are no conclusions about dyno supremecy to be reached--none is better than another. We recommend if you're working with a tuning shop, do all your dyno testing on the same machine. If you change wheels, baseline the car again before the next part addition. If you change shops, baseline the car before the next part addition. Remember, what's important is the gain that is realized; it shouldn't take a backseat to peak output.[/b]

Appreciate the info about the Dyno!
2007 Mazdaspeed3 Sport</span>
-Mazdaspeed Short Ram Intake
-HKS SSQV Bov
-Tein S-Tech Springs
-225/40/18 Nitto Neo Gen Tires on RX-8 Wheels
<span style="color:#FF0000">http://www.JTuned.com
-Mazdaspeed Short Ram Intake
-HKS SSQV Bov
-Tein S-Tech Springs
-225/40/18 Nitto Neo Gen Tires on RX-8 Wheels
<span style="color:#FF0000">http://www.JTuned.com
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