Hawk HPS and dba Series 4000 rotors *Review on Pg. 2*

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Colombia28
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Hawk HPS and dba Series 4000 rotors *Review on Pg. 2*

Postby Colombia28 » Wed Jun 23, 2010 9:14

After two track days and now just shy of 30k miles, my stock brakes are nearing the grave yard. That last track day sure helped.. lol. Has anyone replaced their OE brakes with anything aftermarket; pads or rotors? Impressions? Know of anything i should look into and things i should steer clear of?

I'm looking for pads for street and track, and rotors to stand up to track use. Thanks!!

Correct HPS Part Numbers
Front: HB549F.702
Rear: HB478F.605

For the rear pads, HB571F.605 is NOT correct. It has the wrong retention clip.

Correct dba Series 4000 Part Numbers
Front Left: 42962SL
Front Right: 42962SR
Rear Left: 42957SL
Rear Right: 42957SR


See page TWO (2) for a street and track review
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Postby Regulator » Wed Jun 23, 2010 9:14

hah perfect timing for a thread like this! My brakes have been squeaking for the past two days and I need advice also :)
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Postby tbot » Wed Jun 23, 2010 9:14

hawk hps pads and see if ur rotors can be turned. If not, brembo blanks aren't too expensive
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Postby Stealth01 » Wed Jun 23, 2010 9:14

I bought the Advanced Auto front pads and slapped them on with my slightly grooved rotors for now. They worked great during the Utah trip I just took. They do squeak a little, but not much if you grease them. But I doubt they're good for track use.

Probably Hawk HP+ or EBC Red Stuff for the track.

My ultimate plan is on here somewhere and will cost me about $350 for new front rotors, new pads all around, and SS brake lines. But that's for later this year.
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Postby milehighspeed3 » Thu Jun 24, 2010 9:14

I bought new front rotors and pads last month and have been happy with my new set up. I went with Hawk HPS pads- like the reviews I read they have a "little less bite" than the stock pads with initial press of the brake pedal,but come on strong with more pressure. The brake dust has also gone way down.

I went with DBA (Disc Brakes of Australia) series 4000 slotted rotors. They have a "Kangaroo paw" design to help with cooling. They also have "Thermo-Graphic markings" to help you identify when the rotors are getting hot. I haven't been out to a track day with them to really test them out but they are working just fine as a daily driver.

I think the stock set up for the Speed3 is very good for brakes and I think my new setup might be a bit better. Clearly enough stopping power.

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Postby Huzer » Thu Jun 24, 2010 9:14

I had RedStuffs on the 8. Great brake pads, dusty (or at least I thought so). Ate up the rotors pretty decently, too.

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Postby tbot » Thu Jun 24, 2010 9:14

the hp+ pads and the redstuff are very abrasive pads...very similar to the stock pads but hold up better to high heat. That said, those pads (stock included) will eat up rotors, very common on speed 6's, hence why I say the HPS pads.
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Postby Stealth01 » Thu Jun 24, 2010 9:14

I'm going HPS. I may buy a set of redstuffs of HP+ if I ever get seriously into tracking the car, but that's unlikely.
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Postby Colombia28 » Fri Jul 09, 2010 9:14

Thanks for the responses guys!

I just got off the phone with the dealer just curious what it would cost to say replace OEM and all i heard is $1.6 million dollars pretty much. I never understood why mass produced, often inferior quality parts sold from a dealer to their customers cost twice as much as AF parts that in many cases are better in every way.
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Postby Colombia28 » Sun Jul 11, 2010 9:14

So i just ordered new brakes. Ordered the DBA series 4000 rotors and Hawk HPS pads. Got them through autoanything.com and they were great. Matched tireracks prices and even gave me the pads for cheaper than tirerack wanted. Can't wait to get them on and hit up HPR on the 21st of August.
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Postby MazdaTom » Sun Jul 11, 2010 9:14

Just make sure to bed them in properly. If you don't know how to bed in brakes, check out:
http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_bedincontents.shtml

The stretch of Wildcat between Mountain Vista HS and Thunder Ridge HS has been used to bed in 2 sets of my brakes. Do it in the evening or later for light traffic.

Really though, the best set up is actual racing compound pads (and some sticky rubber) for track use. I use to use the same rotors for my track and street pads (not ideal, since with each different compound of brake pad, I was scraping off the transfer layer put down on the rotor after I switched) when I was doing track days. Swapping brake pads adds about 5 extra minutes to swapping between street and track wheels. I use to run Hawk Blue brake pads with Toyo RA1 tires (same tires the SPEED World Challenge cars use to run a few years ago) on track. When I stepped up to that setup, I was having to readjust my braking points further into the corners from when I was running on normal brakes and summer tires. The stopping power (once up to temp) was mind blowing. And the lateral grip from the Toyos was awesome too.

But a dual set up does cost some extra money.......
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Postby Colombia28 » Mon Jul 12, 2010 9:14

MazdaTom wrote:Just make sure to bed them in properly. If you don't know how to bed in brakes, check out:
http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_bedincontents.shtml

The stretch of Wildcat between Mountain Vista HS and Thunder Ridge HS has been used to bed in 2 sets of my brakes. Do it in the evening or later for light traffic.

Really though, the best set up is actual racing compound pads (and some sticky rubber) for track use. I use to use the same rotors for my track and street pads (not ideal, since with each different compound of brake pad, I was scraping off the transfer layer put down on the rotor after I switched) when I was doing track days. Swapping brake pads adds about 5 extra minutes to swapping between street and track wheels. I use to run Hawk Blue brake pads with Toyo RA1 tires (same tires the SPEED World Challenge cars use to run a few years ago) on track. When I stepped up to that setup, I was having to readjust my braking points further into the corners from when I was running on normal brakes and summer tires. The stopping power (once up to temp) was mind blowing. And the lateral grip from the Toyos was awesome too.

But a dual set up does cost some extra money.......

Thanks Tom for the bed in location. I was debating between that very stretch or the one near my house. Between McArthur Ranch and where Quebec turns into the road to Castle Rock. By Rock Canyon and the middle school behind it. But i think your stretch is a better idea. When i do it will prob be very late/very early. Don't want to bother anyone with what will surely look like a crazy person driving.

I would love to have a track and street set, but i just can't afford it. The RE01s are pretty darn good. They hold very well for a summer tire, and i can't wait to see how well the pair hold up on track.
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Postby Colombia28 » Fri Jul 16, 2010 9:14

Got all the goods! Now just to pick up some new fluid. Though i think i want to order some SS lines... hmm, more money. Can't wait to get them on and hit HPR!
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Postby erod550 » Sat Jul 17, 2010 9:14

Worst thing I ever did to my SRT4 was buy cheap rotors and pads when my originals needed replacing. Its stopping power was greatly reduced and I hated it. Glad you are getting good stuff.
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Postby Colombia28 » Sat Jul 17, 2010 9:14

Those dba rotors were hard to track down. I had to order the fronts and rears from two different places. On the rear pads, i'm getting mixed information though and no resolution. On other boards many say that the model number i got is not the correct one, and on the other side, many are saying that it is and that the "other" number is not correct. It's a bit frustrating that Hawk has two model numbers for the rear pads for one car?? I'm trying to get a definitive answer but i'm having no luck and i don't want to go to install them and then find out they won't work. hmmmm.
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