Got my AP in today...

Speed3 · Postby **Speed3** » Wed Jul 27, 2011 9:14

Ok so I just took it out for a quick run. In 4th everything seemed good.. fuel pressure didn't drop below 1600 at wot when I was watching, and afr's didn't drop below 10 until i floored it in first and it dropped to 9.1 :/ the most knock i saw was 1.0. AFR was higher than 11's and 12's just cruisin so is that ok?

erod550 · Postby **erod550** » Wed Jul 27, 2011 9:14

It's much better for your AFRs to be too low than too high. Lower means richer, which will take away power but isn't dangerous for your engine. Your AFR when cruising will normally be targeting 14.7 so that's normal. Just when you get on the gas hard it should drop into the high 11s and stay there for the most part.

Was that 1.0 KR sustained for a few seconds or was it a quick blip? If it's just a quick blip you should be ok.

Speed3 · Postby **Speed3** » Thu Jul 28, 2011 9:14

So it's ok for it to drop lower in first and second maybe? And idk about the knock it was 0 till I looked away then when I looked down it was 1

reconbygod12 · Postby **reconbygod12** » Thu Jul 28, 2011 9:14

if you see over that sometimes you your injector seals can be bad and that can cause knock

erod550 · Postby **erod550** » Thu Jul 28, 2011 9:14

You're not very likely to damage your injector seals with the stock turbo. You generally need much more power than that before they start to give out.

Are you monitoring the knock with the AP? It's tough to monitor KR by looking at it because it will flash quick usually. I was using a Dashhawk and you could set it to flash different colors at different levels. I had it green at 1.0, yellow at 3.0, and purple at 5.0+. Then it gets your attention without you having to stare at it all the time while driving.

If you're just using the AP to monitor, you could take some logs monitoring AFR, KR, DI fuel pressure, RPM, and boost and post them up and it will be easy to see any problems.

Speed3 · Postby **Speed3** » Thu Jul 28, 2011 9:14

erod550 wrote:You're not very likely to damage your injector seals with the stock turbo. You generally need much more power than that before they start to give out.

Are you monitoring the knock with the AP? It's tough to monitor KR by looking at it because it will flash quick usually. I was using a Dashhawk and you could set it to flash different colors at different levels. I had it green at 1.0, yellow at 3.0, and purple at 5.0+. Then it gets your attention without you having to stare at it all the time while driving.

If you're just using the AP to monitor, you could take some logs monitoring AFR, KR, DI fuel pressure, RPM, and boost and post them up and it will be easy to see any problems.

I'll do some logs here in the next hour or so and post em. What gears?

erod550 · Postby **erod550** » Thu Jul 28, 2011 9:14

2nd and 3rd, maybe 4th but don't get yourself killed or ticketed by going that fast if it's unsafe, lol.

Speed3 · Postby **Speed3** » Thu Jul 28, 2011 9:14

Lol I have a good stretch of highway I can use. I'll have it up soon

Speed3 · Postby **Speed3** » Thu Jul 28, 2011 9:14

Ok so the roads are wet so i'm gonna wait till tomorrow to do some good pulls.. on the way home from dinner tonight i got a bunch of codes (one was a lean code, and like 6 or 7 looked like communication errors), and i have the specific names for them if you want me to list em, are these normal? i figure it's just now adjusting to the new maps? And someone has to help me out cuz this damn exhaust just started rattling like a mother f***er again and it's tied down pretty damn good.. i have no idea what it's rattling against unless it's the exhaust making the noise.. any answers?

erod550 · Postby **erod550** » Fri Jul 29, 2011 9:14

For the exhaust noise, I would check under the car and see if it's really close to anything, especially over the axle. If it is you might need to adjust it to give it more clearance.

What are the codes it threw? Was it just while driving normally or were you getting on it? Within the first 50 miles of driving on the new map, your fuel trims should have settled in and be ok now. When you log, try to add in LTFT and STFT as well. And keep an eye on what your STFT is while idling, and while WOT.

Speed3 · Postby **Speed3** » Fri Jul 29, 2011 9:14

I've tried so much adjusting with the exhaust so I'm gonna take it today and get it looked at on a lift maybe cuz I'm lost lol the codes were
PCM
P2096
IC
U0100
U2064
U0101
TPMS
U0100
ABS
U1900
they happened just under normal acceleration up to highway speed and they showed after I had been cruising for a little.

And I'll get those logs today I got off at 3 so I'll have em up later this afternoon

erod550 · Postby **erod550** » Fri Jul 29, 2011 9:14

That code happens when you don't have cats. I got lucky with mine and never got a CEL in the year I drove around with no cats. Just clear it and you should be fine. It'll probably pop up now and then but as long as it's still just the P2096, you can clear it and go about your business.

Speed3 · Postby **Speed3** » Fri Jul 29, 2011 9:14

Thank god haha what about the other codes? And if I'm runnin lean or rich my exhaust won't be making a weird noise right? I just wanna make sure it's the exhaust rattling and not some other weird noise coming from it..

erod550 · Postby **erod550** » Fri Jul 29, 2011 9:14

No, running rich or lean won't make your exhaust rattle. And I don't think you were actually running lean. The code is just saying that the rear o2 sensor is reading too low of a voltage, which it sees as lean, but that's caused by the lack of a catalytic converter. The rest of the codes just seem to cascade with the main code. I've seen others post that they got all of those codes when they got a CEL for not having a cat.

Speed3 · Postby **Speed3** » Fri Jul 29, 2011 9:14

Ok good. The only thing I gotta do now is some logs lol

Got my AP in today...

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