Build thread

[speedjunkie]

the injector plugs from Mazdatrix won't work? http://www.mazdatrix.com/c-6.htm

Those are primary plugs,go in the iron itself

Actually I'm pretty sure those would work, as long as they're 14mm. I wouldn't be able to use the bracket to hold them in, but I was thinking about drilling the top of them a little bit, threading them, and then screwing a bolt down into them a little and have that bolt pressing up against the fuel rail itself, since it's already held down anyway. Or maybe I could rig up another way, not sure. Thanks Chris, I didn't realize they had injector plugs.

Nice list, I was thinking about making my own undertray with sheet metal.

I was thinking of using aluminum. The only problem with this FEED bumper is it isn't flat across the front, so it would take a little work to make it bend around and all that, but I'm going to see anyway.

[speedjunkie]

I would do at least a 3.5" downpipe. It isn't a huge deal that the rest of your exhaust system is 3"...at the exit of the turbine the exhaust gas will be the hottest and therefor the least dense. Towards the end of the downpipe it will have cooled and become more dense, so size isn't as critical. I guarantee a 3.5 or 4" downpipe will improve spool and power.

Maybe I'll do 3.5". Although unless I can get the flare pieces locally, I'll have to wait now to get them in the mail and he's building the stuff this weekend. I'd like to do something a little bigger, but I'm not sure it's gonna happen at this point.

Look on eBay, you can get these fittings in most colors you could ever want for real good prices.

I'll take a look on there, thanks. The only thing I'm concerned about with this stuff really is I'm looking for steel instead of aluminum. I guess the aluminum fittings would still work, but I'd feel more safe with the steel ones.

Is this for the rear turbo oil drain in the rear iron? If so, I used THIS and it worked great.

Actually Sean at A-Spec told me about this exact piece, but the only problem is I need it longer (like the one A-Spec provides with the kit) so it can come out past the OMP and not be a complete PITA to attach the hose, if not impossible. Otherwise I'd just snatch up this piece. I'm wondering if maybe I can take the one on the car to a machine shop and have them make one for me. Maybe they could make several and I could sell them haha. This one is a little closer to what I need, but it's really not even long enough...
http://www.a-spectuning.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=56

I used the DEI Fire Sleeve and Tape kit and it looks fantastic, using it for the water lines to the wastegate.

This is the stuff I was looking at...

http://www.firesleeveandtape.com/silco-shield-vc-velcro-firesleeve-with-velcro.html

...but I'll look at DEI too. Did you get it local or order it?

Here is the product from Snow I was talking about: http://www.snowperformance.net/nozzle-mounting-bung.html

Actually that won't work for me. I've been looking all over for them at the places you told me about but no one had a 3/8 NPT for me. Pegasus Auto Racing has them though, so that's where I'm getting it.

https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productselection.asp?Product=3228-125


https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productdetails.asp?RecID=5067

[speedjunkie]

I wouldn't worry about flow with banjo fittings, it's not like it's a super critical thing. The coolant isn't going 100mph. Think of it this way, the OEM fittings for the turbo oil and coolant are banjo style, AND the OEM oil cooler fittings are banjo bolts, too.

True. Sometimes I get to over-thinking things lol. I'll just order another one from RX7store like the one I got already. I think it would be easier to attach anyway.

If you're running TiAL MVR's, they come with -4AN fittings, but they are too small, so you'll need -4AN Female to -6AN male expanders to run a -6AN hose for coolant. Then you can run them in the throttle body coolant circuit. You shouldn't need splitters, just run the wastegates in series, so in one wastegate, out to the other, then back to the coolant return. Keeps cost lower and it's a minimal amount of heat added.

I was concerned about the added heat from one to another, but you're probably right. Although it is going to be going through something right off the exhaust, so it's going to be pretty freakin hot haha. Still not sure what I'm going to do on this. I'd almost rather try to find a splitter anyway than try to get 4 of those fittings to run -6AN line, but series would be much easier than parallel haha. Being that I could run it from the back of the engine to the rear WG, to the front WG, to the coolant filler neck...rather than off the rear of the engine to a splitter going to both, then having both those coming off to another splitter and to the coolant filler neck. Ugh, I think the worst part would be the extra lines and all. I don't know. I guess I'll figure it out. Although if I do water cooling I'll have to find another place to put my water temp sensor for my gauge as well. On that note, I called Spa Techniques today and told them about the problems I've been having with my coolant temp sensor, and they said they are under warranty for a year and since I've been having a problem with it since day one they'd probably replace it for free. WOOHOO!!! Although I sent the guy the email correspondence I had on it and he didn't get back to me yet haha.

This is a good idea! I would be down for one similar.

Alright Eduardo, get to making them so Dave and I can get one. LOL


Here is the aluminum elbow I'm looking for the turbo...
http://www.atpturbo.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=tp&Product_Code=ATP-ALM-006&Category_Code=PPBI found another one before though that was about a foot long on the exit end and I was looking for that one, but I can't find it now.

Here is the banjo fitting I got already...it actually looks nothing like the one in the pic haha...
http://www.aptuning.net/14mm_Banjo_Fitting_Set_for_coolant_lines_3_8_Ba_p/atp-ftg-004.htm

Here is the one I want to get for the oil feed from the engine near the filler neck...
http://www.a-spectuning.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=13_16&products_id=67

And here is an example of the fitting I need to drain the oil from the CHRA...
https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productdetails.asp?RecID=5067

[speedjunkie]

Had to split those up, kept getting the internal server error lol.

[speedjunkie]

http://www.magnafuel.com/products/accessories/Y-fittings/index.htm

Found these for if I choose to run it parallel. Where can I find those adapters you were talking about, Dave? The ones to change from -4 to -6? Are you talking about replacing the whole fitting or using an adapter on the -4 fitting to be able to hook up a -6?

Now I need to figure out what the thread pitch is on the vacuum ports for them, that way I can use fittings and braided line if I want. I'm seriously thinking about it though, especially since it'll be pretty close to such a huge source of heat.

[speedjunkie]

Another quick question...since I'm running dual wastegates, if I want to run 20psi for example, do I use the 20psi springs in them or do I use 10psi in each WG?

[RX-7 Chris]

Another quick question...since I'm running dual wastegates, if I want to run 20psi for example, do I use the 20psi springs in them or do I use 10psi in each WG?

Isn't dual wastegates a redundantly thing for safety?

I would think you would want 20psi on both springs because if you put 10psi the would just open early. It isn't like electrical.

[chickenwafer]

http://www.magnafuel.com/products/accessories/Y-fittings/index.htm

Found these for if I choose to run it parallel. Where can I find those adapters you were talking about, Dave? The ones to change from -4 to -6? Are you talking about replacing the whole fitting or using an adapter on the -4 fitting to be able to hook up a -6?

Now I need to figure out what the thread pitch is on the vacuum ports for them, that way I can use fittings and braided line if I want. I'm seriously thinking about it though, especially since it'll be pretty close to such a huge source of heat.

You need AN expanders, like THIS

That fits over the -4AN fitting that comes with the TiAL W/G.

Actually Sean at A-Spec told me about this exact piece, but the only problem is I need it longer (like the one A-Spec provides with the kit) so it can come out past the OMP and not be a complete PITA to attach the hose, if not impossible. Otherwise I'd just snatch up this piece. I'm wondering if maybe I can take the one on the car to a machine shop and have them make one for me. Maybe they could make several and I could sell them haha. This one is a little closer to what I need, but it's really not even long enough...
http://www.a-spectuning.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=56

Wait, are you talking about the FRONT oil drain or the REAR? The piece I linked you to is the for the REAR oil drain port that most block off. For my turbo the previous owner used the stock oil drain extender piece and tapped it for a -10AN fitting. I can snap a picture of it for you later if you like. This puts the oil drain directly under the turbo.

Another quick question...since I'm running dual wastegates, if I want to run 20psi for example, do I use the 20psi springs in them or do I use 10psi in each WG?

20PSI each. If you set them both for 10psi, they will both open at...10psi haha.

[speedjunkie]

You need AN expanders, like THIS

That fits over the -4AN fitting that comes with the TiAL W/G.

Oh OK cool. That would be MUCH easier than what I want to do, but I'm still not sure haha.

Wait, are you talking about the FRONT oil drain or the REAR? The piece I linked you to is the for the REAR oil drain port that most block off. For my turbo the previous owner used the stock oil drain extender piece and tapped it for a -10AN fitting. I can snap a picture of it for you later if you like. This puts the oil drain directly under the turbo.

I'm talking about the front drain, where most people drain their CHRA oil. That's where I have it hooked up right now, and actually I'm thinking I might have that same exact piece I posted. I'll probably just use the fitting I already have, since it's hard telling when, or even IF, I'll ever sell the turbo kit. I think I'm using that stock extender already too though, to space this piece out some. Maybe, I don't remember haha.

20PSI each. If you set them both for 10psi, they will both open at...10psi haha.

Isn't dual wastegates a redundantly thing for safety?

I would think you would want 20psi on both springs because if you put 10psi the would just open early. It isn't like electrical.

Yeah I don't know what I was thinking LOL! Thanks guys!

I dropped the car off at the shop tonight. I removed the IC piping (just turbo side), the feed oil line, lifted the strut bar, took the nut off the Vband clamp on the turbo...I think that's it. It was too hot still to do anything else and I wasn't going to wait around for it to cool down when I can just take off the stuff in the morning. So tomorrow, it begins...

Oh, I also stopped by some exhaust shops this afternoon to try to find two 3"-3.5" flares for the downpipe, but to no avail. So I guess I'll see if Tom can make some for me tomorrow. Although, now that I bought the flange to mount to the midpipe side, Tom said he thinks the DP is 3.5" LOL. So I may have to buy a new flange also, along with bigger flares than I thought. We shall see.

[speedjunkie]

The manifold and downpipe are finished. They are both gorgeous, but now I'm looking at the manifold and the turbo will be tilted 5 degrees forward and the EGT sensors aren't an equal distance from the exhaust flange. I'm a perfectionist and the EGT sensor thing will eat me up but I think I can live with it, they're not too far off. But the 5 degrees thing is really going to bother me, since I worry that it may affect the turbo operation or lifespan. I'm going to contact Full Race and ask them if that's OK. The manual says for the oil drain to point straight down and to not be tilted either way more than 20 degrees, but I think they're talking about the CHRA being turned either way, not whether it's leaning forward or backward. So I have no idea if 5 degrees will be bad enough to try to get a new manifold made. I really like this manifold and the materials, but this is driving me crazy. I'll post pics tomorrow. I'm too tired tonight. Oh yeah, I'm pretty sure I also stripped the lower rear bolt hole on the engine that is used to bolt the manifold onto the engine. Yeah, that really sucks.

In other news, Spa Techniques will be sending me a new water temp sensor, so hopefully that will fix the funky issues I've been having.

There is a little more to report, but I'm too tired to post it right now and I'm not sure it's even all that important anyway haha.

[speedjunkie]

I was going to put the pics up on photobucket but screw it lol. And these are not necessarily in chronological order.

[speedjunkie]

More pics

[Shadowden]

So would you have the tubing (runners?) extended and add more curve to them so the turbo would sit vertically? I'd say if they were custom parts and you rtold them what you needed, that it shouldn't be a problem to have them done to specifications. No point in settling now.

That engine bay is a mystery to me as a whole. Turbos and wires and gauges...oh my.

[speedjunkie]

Well if I wanted the manifold changed I'd have to buy new flanges and all materials and pay to have another one made. And after some research, this mounting orientation won't be a problem, so I'm no longer worried about it.

Haha, the engine bay isn't so daunting once you know what you're looking at. It's probably easiest to break it down into which system...coolant, oil, air, fuel, wiring, vacuum lines, etc. Then if you have a problem you can go from there to troubleshoot. If you have low voltage you're not going to look at the vacuum lines, you'll look at the electrical system, specifically the alternator or battery. That may be obvious to you though, I don't want you to think I'm talking down to you haha.

Of course the main thing that helps is owning the car for several years and always having your hands in it. After all this time, if someone calls and asks me something about this or that, I usually don't need to be looking at the engine bay to know what to tell them. And that's just from experience and constant modification, and most importantly, doing it all myself. And usually when another owner down here asks for help, if they offer me money I'll tell them I won't take it as long as they help me with the work or as long as they do the work and I'm there just for help. That way they learn and can take care of problems if they come up later instead of having to pay someone else to do it. Although there are some that won't stand on their own two feet if their life depended on it, like the kid with the car that was in our back yard for a year and all he needed was an engine harness and we'd have it running for him, FOR FREE. So instead of just getting online and buying a good harness he gets his car back and takes it to a shop where he has to pay for the work done. Uhhhhhhhh, OK? I honestly believe that these cars weed out their owners. If you don't know how to work on them and have no interest in learning, you might as well just save yourself the trouble and buy a Civic or something.

There was another guy down here that had some issues with his FD that he bought for $17k. WAY overpaid for this thing mind you. It had Volk wheels so those were nice. It had a molded in widebody that was alright. The interior was OK at best, the hatch was jacked up from having a sound system molded in, but all the components had been removed so it was useless. The worst part was the engine bay. It was sorely lacking attention. The wiring harness in that one was fried as well, with wires missing and everything. If I remember right, when they hooked up the coolant temp sensor wire it would blow a fuse, so they just left it unhooked, and the car was constantly overheating. So it's pretty obvious that there are wiring issues that need to be addressed, but let's just pretend those aren't there, right? We told him what he needed to get and where to get it. And mind you we were going to do the work for free. What does he do? He takes the car to a shop that puts on some cheap autozone fans and he blows his engine. Then he asks us for help again a couple months later. Yeah I'm done with that one as well.

If you want to do something to your car/RX-7, I'm all for helping, but I'm done trying to do all the work myself. And it's not because I want to be lazy, I'm trying to help people learn their car for themselves so they can address issues on their own down the road and save some time and money. This applies especially to RX-7s, and especially FDs haha. Furthermore, I don't know a whole lot about cars other than FD RX-7s, so if you need help I'm pretty much there just as a set of hands haha. I mean, I know how the systems work basically, but not intricacies of that exact car. And there are even a lot of things I don't know about FDs also, but I can help with things that I've encountered on my car at least, and there have been a lot over the years haha.

/rant.

Not sure how I got on that rant, but it feels good getting it off my chest lol.

[speedjunkie]

By the way Shadow, this wasn't directed at you lol. These two individuals down here just got under my skin with this and I needed to vent. The funny thing is it's not like this JUST happened, this has been over the course of the two years haha.