My new Rx7 R1

4g63<13b · Postby **4g63<13b** » Wed Apr 04, 2012 9:14

Im kind of in the same boat, the stock ic just seems so tiny! so vmount sounds like the best option but not if it will be un efficient with the twins, and standard ICs are really expensive for just the ic alone

chickenwafer · Postby **chickenwafer** » Wed Apr 04, 2012 9:14

4g63<13b wrote:Do you guys know if a v mount setup for the twins will work if i go single turbo at some point?

There are plenty, what is your price range?

I have the Defined Autoworks kit. I don't think they are making the kit anymore due to delays in getting in the intercooler cores or something. The kit looks good IMO, but it has flaws. First, they just flipped a Koyo rad for an FD and put different necks on it, they didn't modify it to make it a dual-pass radiator so the inlet and outlet necks are on the top of the radiator, so you have a pipe running from the bottom of the rad to the top. Kind of odd and less than ideal.

Secondly, their customer service is so-so. They took roughly 5 months to make mine, but it knew there would be a wait (I was told 8 weeks ha!).

There are benefit though- comes with ducting (one of the only kits to do so), you can run the stock fans (some can't), and it IS bolt-in without modification. You can also get A/C brackets. The largest benefit is the price- it's around $1300 for the standard kit, one of the cheaper legit options out there.

If I had the coin, I would get a Rotary Extreme v-mount (Eric runs one, but he has a different intercooler core now). The kits look awesome, fit great, and are built right. They have all the benefits of the Defined kit plus more, but the drawback is the price, they are around $2200 bucks.

If I was to do it again, I might have sprung for the RX7Store v-mount, it's only $1150 bucks plus shipping and looks legit. Beware, however, RX7Store customer service BLOWS. I would be slightly concerned about spending that much coin with them...

Lastly, you always have the JDM options such as the $3000 dollar HKS kit that doesn't even include a radiator, or the $3200 buck GReddy kit that is apparently made of gold, or you can go for an RE Amemyia or Knightsports kit (Knightsports kit is probably the best out there) for close to $4k a piece.

4g63<13b · Postby **4g63<13b** » Wed Apr 04, 2012 9:14

screw the jdm options! hahaha but yea i was looking at the rx7 store one, it looks nice and what iv heard it works great, do you think the rx7 store vmount would work good with the twins?

D Walker · Postby **D Walker** » Wed Apr 04, 2012 9:14

I just did a car with a fluidyne radiator and a clone of the PFS larger SMIC and it works great in that setup. A good chunk cheaper than a v-mount setup and it is completely reversible if needed. Also allows use of the stock fans, stock piping ( I actually have a set of the Efini piping on hand if your looking) and if your still on the stock twins works really great.

4g63<13b · Postby **4g63<13b** » Wed Apr 04, 2012 9:14

Do you guys know what things can be deleted or blocked off without affecting emmissions?

chickenwafer · Postby **chickenwafer** » Thu Apr 05, 2012 9:14

You can go non sequential or simplified sequential (to retain your sequential turbo operation) which will remove a lot of stuff.

D Walker · Postby **D Walker** » Thu Apr 05, 2012 9:14

To pass emissions in an FD can be a true PITA, especially if the cat is old or has been replaced with a "high flow" cat. Even bone stock cars in excellent shape have failed miserably to pass. Its always an adventure.

4g63<13b · Postby **4g63<13b** » Thu Apr 05, 2012 9:14

how do you guys feel about goig non-seq. how is it? also, iv looked into the simplified seq. that seems pretty cool, il have to add it to the summer projects! alos i realized why the tranisition between my turbos isnt harsh, i have a pfc, i read with the power fc it makes the transition smoother, haha yea thats all iv been reading is how hard they are to pass, luckily mines setup to run 25% e85 so im hoping not premixing and having that will some

JTurton7 · Postby **JTurton7** » Thu Apr 05, 2012 9:14

I just went from poor mans non seq to full non seq. Spools alot faster and hits harder. I hate the sequential system to finicky, i was tired of hoping and praying it would boost correctly when i put my foot down.

4g63<13b · Postby **4g63<13b** » Thu Apr 05, 2012 9:14

what is required to do full non seq. and it spools faster? i would think slower

chickenwafer · Postby **chickenwafer** » Thu Apr 05, 2012 9:14

Yes, it will spool slower non sequential. JTurton was referring to the method of converting the twins to non sequential; poor man or rich man versions. Both work, but obviously the rich mans version is much better.

4g63<13b · Postby **4g63<13b** » Thu Apr 05, 2012 9:14

chickenwafer wrote:Yes, it will spool slower non sequential. JTurton was referring to the method of converting the twins to non sequential; poor man or rich man versions. Both work, but obviously the rich mans version is much better.

Oh ok i gotcha

JTurton7 · Postby **JTurton7** » Thu Apr 05, 2012 9:14

yeah "rich mans" involves taking the turbos out, cutting out the unneeded sequential operation gates then getting the holes welded shut. You can also do some porting if you feel like it.
I think I have pictures of this in my thread.

4g63<13b · Postby **4g63<13b** » Thu Apr 05, 2012 9:14

oh ok, would someone be willing to help me do this at somepoint if i decided

4g63<13b · Postby **4g63<13b** » Thu Apr 12, 2012 9:14

Hey i finally found a picture that shows it, since i cant take one since im not with my car but, the little tube that runs into the oil pan in the picture, i noticed the one on my car is torn, im not sure what this is?

My new Rx7 R1

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