Reg finally broke down

[D Walker]

It's usually no more than $20 for a 4ft length of pipe in different bends. They don't make the pipe for you, you just get it and cut it up to work for you and have it welded or connected with couplers. I'd say you could do front mount piping and welding for around $150-$200.

I missed seeing this. It is very hard to believe you can get SS in the sizes needed for that low a price. You should NEVER EVER use anything except SS, Aluminum, or titanium for intercooler pipes, as carbon steel will rust from the condensation produced by the hot/cold cycling. This is bad as the rust inside those pipes will end up in your engine, which as I mentioned, is bad.

Also when building a "custom" intercooler pipe setup you really want to have as few couplers as possible. Each and every coupler is a chance at part failure.

[Mortose]

Hey man, a FS thread just popped up on MSF.org with a FMIC for MS6 for like $375 shipped w/out valve, and $475 with.

[Learjet45]

I think regulator is only waiting for the DP at this point.

[speedjunkie]

I missed seeing this. It is very hard to believe you can get SS in the sizes needed for that low a price. You should NEVER EVER use anything except SS, Aluminum, or titanium for intercooler pipes, as carbon steel will rust from the condensation produced by the hot/cold cycling. This is bad as the rust inside those pipes will end up in your engine, which as I mentioned, is bad.

Also when building a "custom" intercooler pipe setup you really want to have as few couplers as possible. Each and every coupler is a chance at part failure.

http://www.frozenboost.com/index.php?cPath=220&osCsid=5b4732282244a6725027d24b7d8a16ed

[D Walker]

yeah $20 a bend for aluminum I can believe, but for some reason I thought you were talking stainless.

[speedjunkie]

Oh that's right, you said SS lol.

http://www.frozenboost.com/index.php?cPath=210&osCsid=dce318361437bfe329ab048b4fc6faa3

Still not too bad.

[Regulator]

Update time.

Car is fully bolted and driving like poo. When I datalogged the car using my Cobb Accessport I found that the car is running very lean under boost. I suspect there is a leak with either the intake, bov, or turbo inlet hose... leading to a poor reading on my mass airflow sensor (MAF).

I have done all that I can with the limited hand tools I have to try and correct the problem, but it still persists. Everything feels solid, I can't find the leak. I guess I'm gonna just stay out of boost until I can schedule some shop time somewhere. Edit: Which is annoying because I've had two STI's talk shit at stoplights already when I told them I could not race. I told them I have beaten many before this last round of modifications and they didn't take kindly to it.

[~Barn~]

Sorry to hear about the troubles. Just for my own knowledge and the sake of comparison, what would be a "very lean" value at WOT?

[Regulator]

Sorry to hear about the troubles. Just for my own knowledge and the sake of comparison, what would be a "very lean" value at WOT?

Air-Fuel Ratio hovering around 10 at WOT

[erod550]

Air-Fuel Ratio hovering around 10 at WOT

AFR around 10 is actually fairly rich. I was running around 12.0 on my MS3 and anywhere in the low-mid 11s is plenty safe if you don't want to go as aggressive as I did. Direct injection engines can be run a bit leaner than traditional port injection engines though because the fuel delivery to each cylinder is more consistent.

Is the car sputtering or running rough or anything? Or is it just the AFR that is concerning you? Because if so, you can get on it all you want at that AFR and not worry about going too lean. You could actually lean it out even further and still be fine.

[~Barn~]

Thanks for the info and clarification.

[Regulator]

AFR around 10 is actually fairly rich. I was running around 12.0 on my MS3 and anywhere in the low-mid 11s is plenty safe if you don't want to go as aggressive as I did. Direct injection engines can be run a bit leaner than traditional port injection engines though because the fuel delivery to each cylinder is more consistent.

Is the car sputtering or running rough or anything? Or is it just the AFR that is concerning you? Because if so, you can get on it all you want at that AFR and not worry about going too lean. You could actually lean it out even further and still be fine.

Idle is around 15.00.

Car hauls the mail when I push it over 4,000 rpm.

Mods:
CP-E CAI
CP-E HPFP
CP-E Turbo Inlet
CP-E TMIC
CP-E High Flow Downpipe
Cobb AP

It "gargles" in high RPM after multiple hard pulls.

[erod550]

Yea 14.7 is the usual target for idle and cruising AFR for fuel economy reasons.

When it's acting up after multiple hard pulls, what are your BATs (boost air temps) looking like? Any Knock Retard when that's happening?

[Regulator]

AFR around 10 is actually fairly rich. I was running around 12.0 on my MS3 and anywhere in the low-mid 11s is plenty safe if you don't want to go as aggressive as I did. Direct injection engines can be run a bit leaner than traditional port injection engines though because the fuel delivery to each cylinder is more consistent.

Is the car sputtering or running rough or anything? Or is it just the AFR that is concerning you? Because if so, you can get on it all you want at that AFR and not worry about going too lean. You could actually lean it out even further and still be fine.

My car felt like it was hitting fuel cut with the Sure v2 short ram intake (+CEL light), but now with the CP-e CAI I don't have a a CEL and it feels like it drives normally. I swapped out these intakes to check for leaks btw.

[Shadowden]

So are you good to go now, or are you still having issues?