So I have $1400 extra to spend on my car this month. Trying to figure out exactly what to buy. I'm more into suspension/handling than I am with going fast. I'd love to lower it about an inch all around, but I don't think that is best at this point in time. I am already happy with the current power output of the car. This is what I've come up with so far....
Autotech internals (for peace of mind)
JBB RSB
Hawk HP pads
Koni FSD Shocks
That puts me right around 1300 bucks. I will eventually I will get an AP. Do you think I should forgo changing out the stock shocks for now and just get an AP right now? And then get the shocks in a few months down the road?? I know the stock shocks are crap, but mine are still in decent condition and aren't leaking any oil or anything like that.....decisions decisions!!
$1400 to spend on....
Was also thinking of going with the Hypertech instead of the AP, just for the simple fact that it is incredibly unlikely that I will do any type of tuning other than the tunes that come with the programmers. Hell I may not even need any type of programmer because I probably wont be doing any other go fast mods aside from a TIP and possibly a TBE, way down the line....??
I would get the Koni Sport (yellows) personally. That way you can adjust them. The rears are a PIA to adjust though since they have to come off to sdo so (but at least they can be adjusted). If you are going to do shocks and struts, you may as well do springs at the same time since they can be a huge PIA without a lift.
I'm not sure there is a kit for an inch. The eibach prokit is 1.6 and 1.2 I believe.
Maybe do shocks and springs before the rear sway bar?
If you have new pads, I would wait to do the hawks too. Pretty good stoppers on the 3 already. I do have hawks on mine though.
Oh, btw, I would personally do adjustable camber arms on there when you lower. I did on mine. Adams Automotive down near the conoco at I25 and Meadows did my alignemnt. So they have seen SPC camber adjustment arms at least. I had to get them close, but they got it aligned well.
I'm not sure there is a kit for an inch. The eibach prokit is 1.6 and 1.2 I believe.
Maybe do shocks and springs before the rear sway bar?
If you have new pads, I would wait to do the hawks too. Pretty good stoppers on the 3 already. I do have hawks on mine though.
Oh, btw, I would personally do adjustable camber arms on there when you lower. I did on mine. Adams Automotive down near the conoco at I25 and Meadows did my alignemnt. So they have seen SPC camber adjustment arms at least. I had to get them close, but they got it aligned well.
Yeah, I actually like the stock height and there's a bunch of big ### speed bumps in my apartment complex so I'm not going to be lowering the car anytime soon.
Anyhow, I found a Hypertech tuner on MSF for $200 shipped with everything. For what I want to accomplish with my car, the HT will do just fine. So Im gonna pick that up and definitely the internals and the RSB. That will leave me with about 700 left over, so Ill be able to get the Koni's. I was planning on getting the Sports, not the FSD's (typo).
I have 50k on my car, I don't think they are the OEM pads still, but there is no braking issues what so ever. I just figured Id upgrade to the hawks, but perhaps Ill hold off on those as well. They are only like 100 bucks anyhow. Soooo yeah...think Ive narrowed it down to these parts...
Hypertech
Koni Yellows
JBR RSB
Autotech Internals
TIP
Anyhow, I found a Hypertech tuner on MSF for $200 shipped with everything. For what I want to accomplish with my car, the HT will do just fine. So Im gonna pick that up and definitely the internals and the RSB. That will leave me with about 700 left over, so Ill be able to get the Koni's. I was planning on getting the Sports, not the FSD's (typo).
I have 50k on my car, I don't think they are the OEM pads still, but there is no braking issues what so ever. I just figured Id upgrade to the hawks, but perhaps Ill hold off on those as well. They are only like 100 bucks anyhow. Soooo yeah...think Ive narrowed it down to these parts...
Hypertech
Koni Yellows
JBR RSB
Autotech Internals
TIP
How many miles does it have?
This is what my stocks looked like at 50k:
I went with Koni FSD's because I wanted more comfort, but I did lose some of the handling/tightness I used to have with stock... So if you want perforance handling, go with the yellow's like Sha'dow' said
This is what my stocks looked like at 50k:
I went with Koni FSD's because I wanted more comfort, but I did lose some of the handling/tightness I used to have with stock... So if you want perforance handling, go with the yellow's like Sha'dow' said
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I would recommend an accessport just for the support that you get. I'm pretty sure that support for the hypertech has dropped off.
FSD's are about $730 or so on tire rack. You just missed a big sale on them, a whole set for $550. But that ended last month.
I would recommend a rear motor mount. It will help with smoothing out the shifts, and get rid of any engine slap you get durring shifts.
FSD's are about $730 or so on tire rack. You just missed a big sale on them, a whole set for $550. But that ended last month.
I would recommend a rear motor mount. It will help with smoothing out the shifts, and get rid of any engine slap you get durring shifts.
- KILLER_VIZ
- Senior Member
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- Location: Thornton
Mortose wrote:I would recommend an accessport just for the support that you get. I'm pretty sure that support for the hypertech has dropped off.
FSD's are about $730 or so on tire rack. You just missed a big sale on them, a whole set for $550. But that ended last month.
I would recommend a rear motor mount. It will help with smoothing out the shifts, and get rid of any engine slap you get durring shifts.
Honestly I can't justify spending the money on an AP right now. I can get a ht for almost 300 less and it pretty much gives
Me everything that I want/need.
So for AP vs Hypertech, I know very little. What I've come to understand is that the Hypertech has preloaded maps that cannot be tuned at all or changed really.
And a big thing to keep in mind is that the mod bug bites really hard. Once you start, you won't really want to stop. I think any gain in HP from a Hypertech or AP will make you just want more once you start to feel the gains, and the AP is the better option for that to allow for custom tuning and better support from what I've read. Just keep an eye out on any mazdaspeed3 or 6 related forum. Both cars share the same (current model?) AP and can be found used easily.
And a big thing to keep in mind is that the mod bug bites really hard. Once you start, you won't really want to stop. I think any gain in HP from a Hypertech or AP will make you just want more once you start to feel the gains, and the AP is the better option for that to allow for custom tuning and better support from what I've read. Just keep an eye out on any mazdaspeed3 or 6 related forum. Both cars share the same (current model?) AP and can be found used easily.

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- KILLER_VIZ
- Senior Member
- Posts: 263
- Joined: Sun Oct 23, 2011 9:14
- Location: Thornton
Do not do the Hyper Tech. I ran it for about 10k on my old Speed. It is a crap tune and will not work very well at altitude. I think I was peaking at 14psi on the HT and decided to run an MBC with it to pull it up to 18psi. The AP also provides you the ability to log and and monitor the critical aspects of your car. There are areas where you can cheap out with the Speed but ECU management is not one of them unless you like to risk Zoom Zoom Boom. You really need to get an AP and get Pro Tuned (or tune yourself) to make sure that you are making good power safely.
As for the CDFP I went with KMD internals and was running 25psi on a gt3076. Ran it on 50/50 E85, 75/25 E85, and 100% E85 and only when I tried to runs 100% E85 @25 psi did I start to run out of injector. The pump however did not care and was always putting out 1800psi no matter what I threw at it.
As for the CDFP I went with KMD internals and was running 25psi on a gt3076. Ran it on 50/50 E85, 75/25 E85, and 100% E85 and only when I tried to runs 100% E85 @25 psi did I start to run out of injector. The pump however did not care and was always putting out 1800psi no matter what I threw at it.
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