My new car!

speedjunkie · Postby **speedjunkie** » Mon Jun 04, 2012 9:14

I might have to get all that stuff as well. I think if I had a carpet that covered everything I wouldn't have as much crap in there to cover it up lol. Are those floor mats in the same hook and loop material as the stock carpet or is it cut pile?

chickenwafer · Postby **chickenwafer** » Mon Jun 04, 2012 9:14

I'll have to check but I'm pretty sure it's cut pile, which matched my aftermarket carpet. He can do it in any carpet style such as the hook n loop or even Berber. He can also do whatever logo you want in almost any color you want.

So my welder left the rear flange of the downpipe 90% cut so I had some play on the flange to align it properly. After verifying the fitment last night I brought it by this afternoon to get it welded up. He then asked about the "nub" on the downpipe and I explained that at one point the previously owner of the turbo kit had the wg dump re routed to the downpipe, then he decided to dump it to atmosphere, so he plugged up the nub on the downpipe.

We discussed it and he felt it was creating a vortex or swirl effect in the downpipe since exhaust would flow into the nub and then back out, swirling around. I felt the same way too, and obviously it wasn't good for performance, so I decided to have him cut off the nub completely and patch over it with a piece stainless pipe. So he got to work on that today and I will hopefully have it back by Wednesday.

speedjunkie · Postby **speedjunkie** » Tue Jun 05, 2012 9:14

Ok cool, I think I'll check on that. Thanks!

I'm glad you're getting that nub looked at. That was uncomfortable to look at as well. Like a goiter.

chickenwafer · Postby **chickenwafer** » Thu Jun 07, 2012 9:14

Got the downpipe back yesterday afternoon, heat wrapped it, and then installed it. The stupid vband adapter piece still leaks at the turbo from the 2 bolt flange. I'm going to have to try and remove it (it was a major bitch to install, so removing it should be real fun) and try doubling up on the gaskets on it I guess.

And as if that wasn't bad enough, I aslo spotted a good amount of fuel on the floor by the driver side front of the fuel tank, just next to the rear driver side tire. It's almost like my fuel tank is leaking? Real weird. Sometimes I just want to torch this car lol.

Operator · Postby **Operator** » Thu Jun 07, 2012 9:14

chickenwafer wrote: Sometimes I just want to torch this car lol.

Same way I have started to feel about mine lately..........

jamiel · Postby **jamiel** » Thu Jun 07, 2012 9:14

chickenwafer wrote:It's almost like my fuel tank is leaking? Real weird. Sometimes I just want to torch this car lol.

Sounds like you got a good start on it....

<ducks>

chickenwafer · Postby **chickenwafer** » Thu Jun 07, 2012 9:14

I removed the downpipe adapter and it was easier than anticipated. Two gaskets in and it looks like it won't leak. I shined a super bright led flashlight on the inside and I couldn't see any light, also my 0.002" feeler wouldn't even try to go through it. I will know for sure once I have a friend come over to help me get my downpipe installed.

Also figured out the fuel leak. I was under the car for a solid 30 minutes and couldn't see anything...I pop the access cover for the fuel pump in the hatch and wow! Gasoline smell everywhere! But I still couldn't visibly see a leak...key on to prime the pump and I grounded the fuel pump circut in the diagnostic connector under the hood. After 20seconds I see fuel seeping past the electrical bulkhead pass thru connector I installed to power the fuel pumps. I guess the RTV I smeared on wasn't enough and it gave up.

Still odd how fuel is pushing up past the bulkhead....it's at the top of the pump hanger so it's kind of odd. Nevertheless, I have some gasoline rated RTV so I'm going to smear as much as possible around the bulkhead to make sure it doesn't leak.

speedjunkie · Postby **speedjunkie** » Thu Jun 07, 2012 9:14

I was just thinking if you want to torch the car, it should be pretty easy now...just light the fuel spot on the floor. LOL

chickenwafer · Postby **chickenwafer** » Thu Jun 07, 2012 9:14

Haha, true.

So smearing RTV externally on the bulkhead did squat to stop the fuel leak. I guess I'm taking the pump hanger out and fixing it right.

Also, the exhaust leak at the adapter wasn't as bad, but it still freaking leaks. I'm out of ideas...I put 2 brand new gaskets in and it still leaks. Bolts are as torqued as I can get them. To make it worse, I also have a leak from the v band, like it's not seated together properly. I also broke the v band clamp tightening it too much.

So, in summary, 0 for 2, FD wins again and I have to go back to the drawing board to try and figure out this freaking exhaust leak. I might have to pull the turbo and see if my welder can weld the v band directly to the turbine housing. Problem is the adapter is stainless and the turbine housing is cast iron. Oh, and the turbo will be a bitch to remove lol. Ahhhhhh!!!

Operator · Postby **Operator** » Thu Jun 07, 2012 9:14

NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO, you're supposed to be buttoning this car up!!!!

chickenwafer · Postby **chickenwafer** » Thu Jun 07, 2012 9:14

Sorry Dave, really wanted to do the track day. Just not in the cards now I guess.

chickenwafer · Postby **chickenwafer** » Sun Jun 17, 2012 9:14

Oh snapz

chickenwafer · Postby **chickenwafer** » Tue Jun 19, 2012 9:14

Sooooo, not that anyone cares, but I removed the turbo/manifold/wastegate because I just can't get this downpipe to work. The v-band adapter won't create a leak-free seal on the turbine, so I either need to get the turbine flange and the v-band adapter flange both machined flat and try again, or, the better option, just the get the v-band adapter welded straight to the turbine housing.

The problem is, even if I get the flange surfaces both decked flat, the bolts that are used to secure the v-band adapter to the turbo interfere with the v-band clamp on the downpipe, pushing on the clamp so it can't fully clamp around the v-band flanges/rings. Because of this, it will never create a good seal. So, if I go the route of getting the surfaces decked, I would need a new v-band adapter that would be about 0.5-0.75" longer, so the bolts would clear the v-band clamp.

Welding is the best option, since it would eliminate the bolts holding the adapter piece to the turbine housing, and it would obviously eliminate the gasket, a potential weak point, since exhaust gas temperature and pressure is high right outside the turbine. Of course, there is a problem with this, since my adapter is stainless steel and the turbine housing is ductile cast iron. I've research on-line ways to weld the two vastly different materials together, but it isn't easy. I talked to my welder/fabricator and he said it can be done, but he usually never recommends it in a high-heat/stress area because it's likely to fail. Great.

So my last option would be a whole new downpipe, which is just what I was considering. I would have to tow the car to a shop that I trust (which is a very short, essentially non-existent list) so have them fabricate a new 304SS downpipe with the turbo integrated 2-bolt flange and give up on the v-band system. I figure the cost for this would be around $300-$400 bucks plus towing fees.

I then starting thinking (crap!) and this is the perfect excuse to upgrade to a billet turbo..what I've always wanted to get anyways. The cost differential between having a new downpipe made ($3-$400 bucks) or selling my current turbo and buying a billet turbo is about the same ($4-$600 dollars) but I get an upgraded turbo, so I figure it's the perfect excuse to upgrade.

I'm still going to see if I can get the v-band adapter welded, but if not, I'll probably look into a Precision billet turbo and sell my current one. It's still a GREAT turbo, really the perfect street driven 2-rotor turbo. Spools great, has plenty of power potential and range, in perfect condition, but what can I say, I'm always after more haha.

Lastly, you can't pull the manifold without checking out the inside of the engine through the exhaust ports. Everything looks great, almost no carbon!

Front rotor:

Rear rotor:

speedjunkie · Postby **speedjunkie** » Tue Jun 19, 2012 9:14

I wish my housings looked that good inside lol. I'm looking for some spares right now just in case.

So you're getting the new turbo then?

chickenwafer · Postby **chickenwafer** » Wed Jun 20, 2012 9:14

Well I'm not positive. Like I said, if I can get the v band adapter welded to the turbo I'll keep it. Otherwise I think I'll just get a new one.

My new car!

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