Reg finally broke down

Regulator · Postby **Regulator** » Tue Jun 26, 2012 9:14

Shadowden wrote:So are you good to go now, or are you still having issues?

I need to take it to the shop. I tried to find the leak in the intake myself, but I have limited hand tools and a 150 degree mini garage and I couldn't find the problem.

1 step forward, 3 steps back.

erod550 · Postby **erod550** » Tue Jun 26, 2012 9:14

Is there anything besides the AFR that makes you think there is a leak? If the AFR is around 10 at WOT I don't think it's running lean because air that has been metered is getting out. That means it would be targeting 9s or something and ending up at 10, and 9s are crazy rich.

Actually now that I think about it, metered air getting out would make it run rich, not lean. It would be dumping X fuel to go with Y air but if air is getting out you'd have Y minus the leaked air but still X fuel, so you'd be rich rather than lean.

tbot · Postby **tbot** » Wed Jun 27, 2012 9:14

what are your fuel trims like? That's a huge help in figuring out if there's a boost leak or not.

Regulator · Postby **Regulator** » Wed Jun 27, 2012 9:14

Lets see if this works... Its a 3rd gear pull from 2,500rpm to 5,000rpm, not going wide open throttle here.

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0Aldpfd7S7dKAdDgzVTJMWk1TYkRnUzRJeTdGd3pCdVE

~Barn~ · Postby **~Barn~** » Wed Jun 27, 2012 9:14

For not even being a WOT pass, I'm seeing a lot of KR going on here. You have an aftermarket TMIC too, which I would have thought helped mitigate that more than it is (?). Granted, your boost temps aren't really even that high.

Have you considered going to 1-step colder sparkplugs?
I also assume you're also running 91 gasoline, right?

Anywho... I'll let the A/F experts speak to what they are seeing, but that was the first thing of concern that jumped out at me.

~Barn~ · Postby **~Barn~** » Wed Jun 27, 2012 9:14

Also just noticed when comparing your datalog to some of mine... A 76.xx Throttle Position value equates to essentially a 99.xx Accelerator Pedal position. Are you sure you weren't WOT here?

EDIT: Not sure of the significance, but my Mass Airflow numbers are quite a lot higher than yours, under similar conditions. As you're accelerating, yours start in the low 140s working toward the high 170s. I'm seeing in several of my data logs that my values start in the high 170s and climb into the low 200s. Again though... I don't really know what to make of this, but I noticed the difference in numbers.

Regulator · Postby **Regulator** » Wed Jun 27, 2012 9:14

CP-e intake
CP-e Turbo Inlet
Synapse BOV
CP-e TMIC (3.25")
CP-e HPFP
CP-e Catted Downpipe
Denso ITV-22's (1 Step Colder)
Cobb Stage 2 Tune

I have that CX racing FMIC kit sitting in my storage room right now. Waiting to get these bugs sorted out before I install that.

~Barn~ · Postby **~Barn~** » Wed Jun 27, 2012 9:14

Interesting that you say you want to get the bugs worked out, and then change something in the equation (read: the FMIC). Far be it from me to suggest how you troubleshoot, but I would think you'd want everything on the car that you plan on realistically doing - in the short-term - and then ironing out the bugs across the whole system (?).

I would just hate to see you get everything running awesome, and then put the FMIC on and presto!.. new issue to sort out. Regardless, good luck and keep us filled in!

Regulator · Postby **Regulator** » Wed Jun 27, 2012 9:14

~Barn~ wrote:Interesting that you say you want to get the bugs worked out, and then change something in the equation (read: the FMIC). Far be it from me to suggest how you troubleshoot, but I would think you'd want everything on the car that you plan on realistically doing - in the short-term - and then ironing out the bugs across the whole system (?).

I would just hate to see you get everything running awesome, and then put the FMIC on and presto!.. new issue to sort out. Regardless, good luck and keep us filled in!

Well if its a mechanical leak in the intake tract then I would assume it would be easy to fix. I am paying one of the best tuners on MazdaspeedForums to tune my car. Its gonna cost me $50 to re-tune it for the FMIC when I get around to it, so its not a huge hit in the wallet.

~Barn~ · Postby **~Barn~** » Wed Jun 27, 2012 9:14

I understand.

erod550 · Postby **erod550** » Thu Jun 28, 2012 9:14

Regulator wrote:Lets see if this works... Its a 3rd gear pull from 2,500rpm to 5,000rpm, not going wide open throttle here.

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0Aldpfd7S7dKAdDgzVTJMWk1TYkRnUzRJeTdGd3pCdVE

That looks to me like a WOT log. I know the throttle position is only ~75% but the way the ECU handles the electronic throttle control, sometimes it will only register ~75% even at full throttle. That's the basis behind the "full control flash" that CP-E does, to give you the ability to open the throttle all the way where the ECU restricts it from the factory.

Anyway, it looks like it switched over to open loop because the AFRs went richer (no longer targeting 14.7) and your fuel pump cranked up the pressure. But it never really got rich enough. It stayed lean, in the mid 13s, despite being at 16-17psi of boost, and that's probably why you started getting some KR.

I would suggest logging a WOT pull just to see if the throttle position changes at all and see what your AFRs are doing then. If they're still in the 13s and you're still getting that much KR, you're probably going to want to add some fuel back in because it looks like it's leaning it out too much.

I still don't see any evidence from this log that there would be a leak anywhere though. If you truly had a boost leak, your fuel trims would likely be abnormal which they're not, and your wastegate duty cycle would probably shoot up as it would have to try harder to get to the target boost levels, which yours stays steady and isn't maxing out to hit that 17psi.

tbot · Postby **tbot** » Fri Jun 29, 2012 9:14

MAF calibration needed...your fuel trims are way off, meaning either there's a boost leak, or your not calibrated correctly, either way, that will lead to the issues you're having.

I say install the FMIC, reset the ecu by disconnecting the battery and touching the cables together unhooked, and seeing what it looks like afterwords.

Regulator · Postby **Regulator** » Wed Jul 04, 2012 9:14

New datalog after a few minor adjustments:

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0Aldpfd7S7dKAdHk3STUtZ3VwRDh0ci1vZ3BSVno2Z2c#gid=0

Mortose · Postby **Mortose** » Wed Jul 04, 2012 9:14

holy knock retard/BAT's batman

erod550 · Postby **erod550** » Thu Jul 05, 2012 9:14

Yea, your AFR is still in the 13s at 18psi. That's no good. Need to richen it up. Try to hit 11.5-12.0 at least and I bet that KR will go away, even at those high BATs. I bet it pulls like a raped ape running that lean though, heh. But I wouldn't feel safe going that lean for very long.

Reg finally broke down

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