Build thread
- speedjunkie
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- Location: Colorado Springs
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- speedjunkie
- Senior Member
- Posts: 5359
- Joined: Wed Jan 02, 2008 9:14
- Location: Colorado Springs
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- chickenwafer
- Posts: 2515
- Joined: Wed Mar 11, 2009 9:14
- Location: Greeley
- RX-7 Chris
- Posts: 7800
- Joined: Tue Oct 02, 2007 9:14
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speedjunkie wrote:Because with this wideband you're supposed to pre-heat it by turning it on for a short time before starting the car. Unfortunately I don't really do that either, and I probably could get by just wiring it to ACC and I've been thinking about it.
So you turn on the key for a few minutes before you start it.
1984 RX-7 GSL-SE [size=84]My restomod project[/SIZE]
1964 Ford Galaxie 500XL flat black w/ white interior, 2 dr fastback, 390 thunderbird, C6 auto, 2500 rpm high stall converter, shift kit, AC, Holley 750 cfm
[size=100]RIP 1983 RX-7[/SIZE]
My Car Blog
- chickenwafer
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- Joined: Wed Mar 11, 2009 9:14
- Location: Greeley
speedjunkie wrote:I'm trying to upload a video of a 1st-4th gear pull onto the highway
Sooo about this video?!?
[font="Century Gothic"]APR 4 Program Tune - AEM CAI - Vogtland Suspension
JVC KW-NX7000bt HU - eD 6500 Front Comps - cDT EF-61's Rear fill -IDMAX 10" sub-
JL 1000/1 - JL 450/4 [/font]
Past:
Current:

JVC KW-NX7000bt HU - eD 6500 Front Comps - cDT EF-61's Rear fill -IDMAX 10" sub-
JL 1000/1 - JL 450/4 [/font]
Past:
Current:

chickenwafer wrote:My wideband needs to preheat, too (I think most wideband sensors need to warm up) but I find it warms up much quicker by starting the engine haha. Sure, it wont read accurately for the first 2-4 seconds, for it's not like I'm boosting then anyways so no big deal.
RX-7 Chris wrote:So you turn on the key for a few minutes before you start it.
chickenwafer wrote:It only takes seconds to warm up.
You guys are making waaaaay too much sense.
- speedjunkie
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- speedjunkie
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David, this is the video you've been waiting for LOL. Are you happy now?! lol
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0defsa6-LDo&feature=youtu.be
Although weeds on the side of the highway don't really convey acceleration that well lol, so maybe I'll try to get the gauges on video or I'll drive next to buildings or something bigger maybe.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0defsa6-LDo&feature=youtu.be
Although weeds on the side of the highway don't really convey acceleration that well lol, so maybe I'll try to get the gauges on video or I'll drive next to buildings or something bigger maybe.
- speedjunkie
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- Joined: Wed Jan 02, 2008 9:14
- Location: Colorado Springs
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David, this is the video you've been waiting for. Are you happy now?! lol
http://youtu.be/0defsa6-LDo
Although weeds on the side of the highway don't really convey acceleration that well lol, so maybe I'll try to get the gauges on video or I'll drive next to buildings or something bigger maybe.
I'm not sure why, but this damn video won't embed now, and I'm trying the same way I always do and get it to embed.
http://youtu.be/0defsa6-LDo
Although weeds on the side of the highway don't really convey acceleration that well lol, so maybe I'll try to get the gauges on video or I'll drive next to buildings or something bigger maybe.
I'm not sure why, but this damn video won't embed now, and I'm trying the same way I always do and get it to embed.
speedjunkie wrote:David, this is the video you've been waiting for. Are you happy now?! lol
http://youtu.be/0defsa6-LDo
Although weeds on the side of the highway don't really convey acceleration that well lol, so maybe I'll try to get the gauges on video or I'll drive next to buildings or something bigger maybe.
I'm not sure why, but this damn video won't embed now, and I'm trying the same way I always do and get it to embed.
Only makes me want to get to ride in your car even more!!!!
[font="Century Gothic"]APR 4 Program Tune - AEM CAI - Vogtland Suspension
JVC KW-NX7000bt HU - eD 6500 Front Comps - cDT EF-61's Rear fill -IDMAX 10" sub-
JL 1000/1 - JL 450/4 [/font]
Past:

Current:

JVC KW-NX7000bt HU - eD 6500 Front Comps - cDT EF-61's Rear fill -IDMAX 10" sub-
JL 1000/1 - JL 450/4 [/font]
Past:

Current:

- speedjunkie
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- speedjunkie
- Senior Member
- Posts: 5359
- Joined: Wed Jan 02, 2008 9:14
- Location: Colorado Springs
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Tuesday night I took the fans off the radiator and found where it's leaking. I'll post up pics when I get home if I can remember. Last night I removed the radiator and today at lunch I dropped it off at Manley Radiator Service (thanks Chris!). He said they might have to use epoxy to fix it. That's fine by me as long as it's fixed.
In the mean time I'm working on the issue of running out of washer fluid too fast. What I'm thinking about doing is cutting the top off my rear washer tank so that I can retain the mounting points and filler neck (so it will still look the same from the outside) and then getting a tank from USPlastics or somewhere else that is about the same size and shape, then using the bottom from that tank and the top of mine and welding them together with a plastic welder. The stock tank would be OK if it was more square (or rectangular, whatever)...basically if it has the same dimensions at the bottom as it does at the top. However, the bottom half of the tank is only a portion of the volume as the top. So by combining the two I should be able to get a decent size tank that holds a bit more washer fluid and maybe I can get it to last me from one gas fillup to the next. At least that way I wouldn't have to stop three times to refill the washer fluid for every one gas stop.
I'm also working on a fluid level sensor to mount in visibility so I don't run out anymore. I'm worried about cavitating the pump. Anyway, I'd really rather not drill any more holes into the tank, and I ended up coming across these...
http://www.gemssensors.com/About-Gems-Sensors/Press-Release/New-ExOsense-Non-Intrusive-Liquid-Level-Sensor
http://www.medicaldevice-network.com/contractors/mechanics/cosense-sensors/cosense-sensors4.html
I emailed a distributor for the first one that is based in Centennial, CO. They said they need to know the wall thickness and the exact material used to make the tank. I know the wall thickness but I'm clueless on the material, other than it's plastic. But if I end up using the bottom of another tank, I can just ask the supplier what it's made of.
In the mean time I'm working on the issue of running out of washer fluid too fast. What I'm thinking about doing is cutting the top off my rear washer tank so that I can retain the mounting points and filler neck (so it will still look the same from the outside) and then getting a tank from USPlastics or somewhere else that is about the same size and shape, then using the bottom from that tank and the top of mine and welding them together with a plastic welder. The stock tank would be OK if it was more square (or rectangular, whatever)...basically if it has the same dimensions at the bottom as it does at the top. However, the bottom half of the tank is only a portion of the volume as the top. So by combining the two I should be able to get a decent size tank that holds a bit more washer fluid and maybe I can get it to last me from one gas fillup to the next. At least that way I wouldn't have to stop three times to refill the washer fluid for every one gas stop.
I'm also working on a fluid level sensor to mount in visibility so I don't run out anymore. I'm worried about cavitating the pump. Anyway, I'd really rather not drill any more holes into the tank, and I ended up coming across these...
http://www.gemssensors.com/About-Gems-Sensors/Press-Release/New-ExOsense-Non-Intrusive-Liquid-Level-Sensor
http://www.medicaldevice-network.com/contractors/mechanics/cosense-sensors/cosense-sensors4.html
I emailed a distributor for the first one that is based in Centennial, CO. They said they need to know the wall thickness and the exact material used to make the tank. I know the wall thickness but I'm clueless on the material, other than it's plastic. But if I end up using the bottom of another tank, I can just ask the supplier what it's made of.
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