My new car!

chickenwafer · Postby **chickenwafer** » Wed Sep 12, 2012 9:14

Eric, I prefer the term "innovative" LOL!

speedjunkie · Postby **speedjunkie** » Wed Sep 12, 2012 9:14

Wow, someone likes patting their own back. LOL jk Innovative it is.

Website · Postby **Shadowden** » Wed Sep 12, 2012 9:14

Glad you found a solution. It would be more confortable and you would be less likely to slide around if you do a thin bit of foam (say 1/4") and have someone reupholster the seat so it is stretched tightly on the pan.

Nice work and hope you have fun at the track!

chickenwafer · Postby **chickenwafer** » Tue Sep 18, 2012 9:14

I saw an article about this "Virtual Dyno" program in the latest issue of Modified LINK so I thought I would give it a try.

You can download Virtual Dyno HERE.

First off, it's FREE. Which is real cool. And the owner of the program who wrote it all, Brad Barnhill, is a nice guy. I emailed him with a few questions and he responded quickly and did whatever he could to help.

So, basically, Virtual Dyno is a program that you input some basic vehicle information into with it's pre-made vehicle list, edit the weight of the car if needed, add occupant weight, and change the tire/wheel profile with the handy calculator if you have aftermarket wheels/tires.

It then calculates your horsepower and torque and plots it on a nice typical dyno chart by using a data log from your ECU. You must log Time, RPM, and Throttle Position (this is tricky in the FD, I'll go over it later). You can also log AFR and Boost and it will plot it on the bottom like a normal Dyno. You can even change from between a DynoJet or Mustang Dyno for different readings.

Now, I know what most people are thinking, as I was thinking the same thing- these type of "virtual dynos" are NEVER accurate. I remember when I had the Cobb AccessPORT on my old RX-8 and it's stupid dyno feature was so off it was laughable. Well, according the Modified article, this Virtual Dyno software is the real deal. Apparently a bunch of shops and users have tested this, while on an actual dyno, and had results within +/- 2% of this software. That is awesome. Also, word is, the VD software is more accurate since you're actually driving your car, so road and wind resistance, plays a larger factor in the final horsepower figures.

Anyways, I decided to test it out after I emailed Brad and got him to add the 3rd Gen FD RX-7 to the car list. I did 2 pulls in 2nd gear and logged them, 2 pulls in 3rd gear (which was quite fun!) and logged those as well.

Came home and eagerly plotted them in Virtual Dyno. Here are my results (don't laugh too hard at my wandering AFR plot, it's still not dialed in yet!)

First is the 2nd gear pull, it shows 436rwhp/363tq@15psi:

Then I did the 3rd gear pull, 327rwhp/278tq@15psi:

I believe the 3rd gear pull to be more realistic. I think you ideally want to do it in as high of a gear as possible, but obviously you're going to be moving pretty quick in higher gears so it can get real dangerous/illegal quick! That's why I wanted to stick with 2nd gear because even the 3rd gear pulls are closing in on 100mph at redline.

It can be a useful tuning tool. You can see in the 2nd gear pull I had power drop off at 6500rpm, so I need to take a look at my timing and fuel schemes above those areas. Additionally, it could help for instances when you make changes to your tune, put the log in VD and see if it made any differences. And, of course, if you put any parts on your car, log a pull and see they added you some horsepower.

Now, for FD guys, Virtual Dyno does support the FC-Datalogit, but it still requires a Throttle Position number (percentage). The Datalogit doesn't have this in the log on the FD (on other cars it does) because the FD employes two throttle position sensors, so it doesn't really have a percentage. What I did was grab the .txt file of the data log, import it in a spreadsheet and resave it as a .csv file, while adding an extra column and labeling it "Throttle Position" and just putting in "100" for the whole pull.

I also found making the data log as short as possible helps the software out the most. So get ready to do your pull, start logging, do your rip, then as soon as you stop going WOT stop logging. This will help the software be more accurate as well.

Anyways, just thought I would post this up. It's compatible with Cobb AP logs as well, and MANY other EMS' including Haltech, MoTeC, FAST, HP Tuners, AEM, Link, etc.

speedjunkie · Postby **speedjunkie** » Wed Sep 19, 2012 9:14

Can't wait to try this.

chickenwafer · Postby **chickenwafer** » Wed Sep 19, 2012 9:14

Yeah I'm looking forward to seeing your power band and comparing it to mine. Your EFR turbo should really help low-end power and torque. Comparing the spool time will be cool, too. I think, even if the numbers aren't all that accurate (although I believe they are) it's still a useful tuning tool and should depict an accurate power band.

speedjunkie · Postby **speedjunkie** » Wed Sep 19, 2012 9:14

Yeah, and another upside is maybe I won't blow my engine lol.

Also, sounds like Brad Barnhill and Matt might be long-lost genius brothers. lol

erod550 · Postby **erod550** » Wed Sep 19, 2012 9:14

I've been lazy with logging the Mustang with my SCT Tuner. I tried a few times at the track but couldn't get it to work. I need to try again and try out this software and see what it says. I know what I put down stock but haven't been back to the dyno after modding so it would be interesting to see what this software comes up with.

Edit - Errr, I just tried to download the file and Norton flagged the EXE and quarantined it...

chickenwafer · Postby **chickenwafer** » Thu Sep 27, 2012 9:14

Not much to update here. I drove the car today after dialing in a new timing map optimized slightly for my water/meth (but still with a safety buffer) and I'm not sure how much of it was the timing map, the extremely cold intake air temps (17*C/68*F as measured at the inlet manifold in the UIM, without spray), or a combination of both but HOLY BALLS my car was hauling ###.

I launched it in 1st from a 5mph roll and it just spun tire, I quickly grabbed second and the steering went SUPER light so I think my front tires were skipping over the ground. I was bouncing off 8200rpm before I knew it, threw it into 3rd and was at 100mph fast. A noticeable difference from the old timing map and higher charge temps.

I cranked on the MBC a little more to see if I could squeeze some more boost but right now it's staying at 16-17psi, the boost needle flutters a little at higher RPM indicating the boost controller is maxed out. I currently have 10psi springs in the TiAL W/G so I plan on swapping in some 15psi springs and then slowly creeping up to 21psi on pump gas and aggressive water/meth. I'll need a new ignition system for sure before that happens.

I also decided I want to do something I never thought I ever would- do some aggressive aero. I looked at nearly every conceivable bumper made for the FD (there are quite a few) and I think I settled on running a Mazdaspeed GT-C front bumper with tinted 99 spec front running lights, Sanai sides with carbon fiber steps, and an RE-A Street carbon fiber diffuser. The only other thing I might consider would be the FEED front fenders but I don't think they would work with the Sanai sides so I've have to run FEED sides, which I don't think match the GT-C bumper well.

I also like this combination because very few people are running it. Here is a 7club members car with the combo, my inspiration:

I might consider the 99 spec wing at some point, or a different spoiler such as the RS Pantera carbon duck tail, but right now I enjoy being wingless. I really thing the GT-C bumper lends itself well to darker colors, so I think it will look fantastic in MB.

I also picked up the FEED hood off Eric last Sunday while I was down there (thanks again man!) so I'm going to get some Aerocatch flush hood latches for it and get a body shop to paint it soon after I verify it's fit.

This stuff is probably a few months to even a year down the road, but I'm excited thinking about it. I've never really been a fan of body kits, but there is just something about this combo that has me excited. Not over the top but you can easily tell it's aftermarket, yet subtle.

chickenwafer · Postby **chickenwafer** » Thu Sep 27, 2012 9:14

I also have some information to update on Virtual Dyno.

First of all, the log data was changed to accept TPS voltage instead of a throttle position percentage, so FD guys running the Datalogit no longer have to add an additional column and label it "Throttle Position" with values of 100 all throughout it. It will just read TPS voltage and calculate off that. So now it can read the logs super easily.

I also found out that Virtual Dyno applies ZERO correct factors unless you tell it to. So the pulls I posted up previously are UNCORRECTED pulls. To make it apply a correction factor, there is an "SAE" box in the left hand column in each window of each log that is being plotted. By checking this box you can alter the air pressure and ambient temperature readings. It's a little anti-intuitive, but by putting in the actual running conditions, it will then apply a standardized correction factor.

For example, the box is auto filled for a sea level reading of 29.9"/mg of air pressure and 77*F of ambient air temperature. At 5000ft the air pressure is 24.9"/mg and you can obviously put in whatever air temperature was occurring at the time of your pull. By entering the actual running conditions of your pull, it will then apply an accurate correction factory giving you your CORRECTED wheel-horsepower and torque.

Obviously, if you do a pull at sea level and 77*F, then it's already calculating correctly. I had erroneously assumed that the Virtual Dyno software already applied some sort of correction factor, but how can it if it doesn't know your operating environment? That's what checking the SAE box and entering the real world values does, gives the software the reference and then it can apply a real correction factor. Just throwing that out there for people to use.

Website · Postby **Shadowden** » Thu Sep 27, 2012 9:14

That bumper looks great. Love the looks of it so certainly would be an excellent choice in my book.

speedjunkie · Postby **speedjunkie** » Thu Sep 27, 2012 9:14

I'm gonna try that timing map you sent me and see what happens. After I install a GOOD radiator that is. lol

I thought you had a Twin Power already.

I like that RS Pantera duck tail. I've thought about getting one of those myself.

What I don't understand about the Virtual Dyno thing, is that with the correction, wouldn't that give you a true HP reading, as if you were at sea level? I know we talked about this before, and I'm pretty sure I have it figured out, but from your description now, I'm confused at what you mean.

chickenwafer · Postby **chickenwafer** » Thu Sep 27, 2012 9:14

speedjunkie wrote:I'm gonna try that timing map you sent me and see what happens. After I install a GOOD radiator that is. lol

I thought you had a Twin Power already.

I like that RS Pantera duck tail. I've thought about getting one of those myself.

What I don't understand about the Virtual Dyno thing, is that with the correction, wouldn't that give you a true HP reading, as if you were at sea level? I know we talked about this before, and I'm pretty sure I have it figured out, but from your description now, I'm confused at what you mean.

No Twin Power. I thought about getting one but decided to hold off. Now the AEM Smart Inductive ignition coil system is a much better option so I'm glad I held off on the HKS TP.

So, the correction factor of a typical dyno is applied because the dyno knows (via sensors or the operator inputs the data) the operating environment you're in. So it applied a correction factor that is typically a sea level operating environment to give you the most ideal and optimistic power readings.

The Virtual Dyno software doesn't know your operating environment conditions without you inputting them. It assumes you're at sea level otherwise. So by entering your environmental conditions the sea level correction factor is then applied. I hope this makes sense lol, I was confused at first as well but now it makes sense

Essentially, if you don't change the environmental data in the software, you will have no correction factor, it's an uncorrected dyno.

speedjunkie · Postby **speedjunkie** » Thu Sep 27, 2012 9:14

Yeah I knew it wouldn't know our operating conditions, all it can know is what the power SHOULD be. That's why I figured there had to be some way to make a correction. What I'm wondering is if the uncorrected numbers would be at altitude (since it's just reading off your actual power) and the corrected numbers would be closer to sea level. I.E., your power without corrections at altitude would be true just like doing it at sea level without corrections would be true.

I forgot you were talking about the AEM stuff. I'd like to check into that more myself. Especially considering HKS isn't making Twin Powers anymore.

chickenwafer · Postby **chickenwafer** » Thu Sep 27, 2012 9:14

^ Correct. I believe we are saying the same thing. Regardless of where you do a pull, altitude or sea level, if you don't alter the SAE box settings then the software is showing your TRUE power, uncorrected.

I wonder why HKS stopped making the Twin Power. You can contact C.Ludwig on the 7club forum, he sells a nearly plug n play harness, the coils, and a DIY MSD plug wire kit. I kind of want to mount my coils in a Coil On Plug (COP) setup similar to what Rice Racing did. Ultra short plug wires are nice too.

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