vierte wrote:Thanks, I didn't even think about it having a pull type clutch. I have an engine stand but not an adapter, that would save me from driving a couple hours to weld one up. I also have the 2-1/8" socket, feelers and a dial indicator. Makes checking end play a breeze.
Who makes your porting template? I am shying away from pineapple, there templates are nice but seem a little conservative. I was going to order some from Defined Autoworks in the next day or 2. PM Sent.
I got your PM, I will call you in a few.
As far as porting templates, I actually founds the Pineapple templates to be even a little overly aggressive, especially on the primary. I was shocked how much larger they had the primary ports. Secondary is always going to be conservative or you will end up cutting into the side seal track and it will fall in/catch when the seal scissors across the port. A Bridgeport is really the only safe way to open up the secondaries a ton.
I mostly just enlarged the secondaries slightly from the Pineapple template then put a nice 45* bevel on the edge to avoid any side seal snagging. I ran a spare side seal across the port and is glided smoothly so I was confident it wouldn't be an issue. Regardless, I have the Pineapple templates and you're more than welcome to borrow them to try out.
vierte wrote:The car has a few extra electrical goodies too like LS1 coils so I'll need to document it to get things where they belong. It's always a pain working on modified electrical systems without any reference.
Thats a pretty decent idea.. just did a quick search and found DIYAutotune has a 22pin weather pack connector too. Not sure how many wires are in the harness yet.
http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/weather-pack-22-position-bulkhead-connector-kit-p-364.html
A few things- I would avoid LS1 coils. They are stout but a lot of respectable tuners have echoed that they can be problematic, paramount among these issues is a tendency to self discharge aka fire at random when they're not supposed to, which would cause erratic ignition timing and potentially massive pre-ignition or detonation. I would personally avoid them.
The
AEM Smart Coils have proven to be a viable and reliable solution, they are essentially re-badged Mercury Marine inductive coils and can pump out some serious power. They also have a built-in ignitor so the external ignitor on the FD can be removed. Chris Ludwig on the 7club forum sells a nearly PnP harness for these coils on the FD for $100 bucks. The AEM coils are also roughly the same price as LS1 coils and cheaper than LS2 coils without any of the issues associated with them.
That surface-mount connector you found looks good, I can't remember how many wires are in the factory harness but it's a lot. I'm assuming you'll be "weeding" the stock harness to remove all the emissions and sequential turbo control wires, yes? That will drastically cut down the wires coming out the engine harness. On my harness, I only kept:
Idle Speed Control (ISC)
All 4 fuel injectors (duh)
The two CAS sensors (duh again)
Knock
Factory 02 (not sure why, it's not hooked up)
IAT
Water temp
Thermo switch
I deleted the OMP, EGR, APV, and all sequential turbo stuff. It removed a crap ton of wire.