New FD in Town!

chickenwafer · Postby **chickenwafer** » Fri Nov 02, 2012 9:14

Did you get it to idle before with the gm 3 bar MAP sensor calibration? If you tuned it off the stock map sensor then it won't run correctly of the 3 bar calibration. Can you get a good base map off anyone? That would be the best starting point.

VRx8 · Postby **VRx8** » Fri Nov 02, 2012 9:14

Yeah is running based on the stock MAP calibrations, I'll mess around with it some more and see If I can get it idling with the GM 3 Bar settings. That probably explains why the RPM's just drop.

chickenwafer · Postby **chickenwafer** » Fri Nov 02, 2012 9:14

I would reset it to gm 3 bar MAP sensor calibration and start tuning from scratch again. Make sure the correction tables are zeroed out (it may idle rough when cold) but just get it to a warm coolant temp and starting tweaking. Start with high timing around 15-20* leading with 0 split and work your way down to smooth it out (the higher timing will help initial start-up and cold idle).

I tried to download the PS1000k software but for some reason couldn't install it on my tuning laptop so I'll have to look into it more. Otherwise I can send a base map (hopefully) once I get it working, if you'll even need one by then LOL.

It could be worth it to browse the 7club Haltech sub-forum for a base map or email someone on the site to get you one. I know C Ludwig on the forums is a major Haltech dealer/tuner and he could send you one but he may charge for it...otherwise I believe the user RenesisFD has a PS1k or PS2k and he might be able to send you a base map.

Are you planning on going somewhere to have a pro dyno or street tune it or do it yourself?

VRx8 · Postby **VRx8** » Fri Nov 02, 2012 9:14

Well i have BDC, Kan and Rotary Performance 5 hours.away. I just need to get it running not going to boost until is fully tuned obviously. the software seems easier than fc edit so for you is cake lol

I downloaded a base map from 7club it was for 800/1600 low imp injectors, stock MAP sensor. Tried to find one for ID's but no luck

VRx8 · Postby **VRx8** » Sat Nov 03, 2012 9:14

Broke the 3 bar map sensor

. So Im back with the stock map sensor and got the car idling, now it accelerate much cleaner but drops at 2k.

VRx8 · Postby **VRx8** » Wed Nov 07, 2012 9:14

Pressurized the system today and found a leak in between the UIM and TB and my Hallman boost controller leaking like a mofo took it out and replace it with a mac selenoid.

Plan is to have the Haltech control boost.

Also need to replace the stock AIT sensor with a GM/Haltech one. So I need to take the UIM out and drill and tap the factory sensor position.

speedjunkie · Postby **speedjunkie** » Wed Nov 07, 2012 9:14

Why not just get the fast reacting AIT sensor that fits already? I've never had any problems with mine.

VRx8 · Postby **VRx8** » Wed Nov 07, 2012 9:14

Yeah I was thinking about that, I already have the pig tail for it. I bought it a while back but never got to buy the sensor.

chickenwafer · Postby **chickenwafer** » Thu Nov 08, 2012 9:14

I would leave the stock AIT sensor in its location and put your new one I'm the throttle body elbow. It's a much better location and gives a more accurate intake temperature.

Weird that your Hallman was leaking. They do have a vent hole on the output hose nipple which bleeds off excess boost.

VRx8 · Postby **VRx8** » Thu Nov 08, 2012 9:14

Dave, I have the W/I nozzle on the elbow as well is this going to damage/affect the sensor? Is going to Inject very close to the sensor.

chickenwafer · Postby **chickenwafer** » Thu Nov 08, 2012 9:14

Hmmm, didn't think about that. Are you planning on using water meth for additional power or just cleaning and reliability? Or better are you planning on altering timing and fueling schemes based on intake temperature compensation? If so, you want the AIT downstream of the nozzle, if no, put the sensor in front of the nozzle.

VRx8 · Postby **VRx8** » Thu Nov 08, 2012 9:14

Is just there for reliability. Im not going to tune with W/I in mind.

Please correct me if Im wrong. The cooler the AIT sensor readings are the more fuel the ECU will add?

chickenwafer · Postby **chickenwafer** » Thu Nov 08, 2012 9:14

Well that depends on your compensation table based on a correction factor for a given temperature that you have setup, but generally yes, the colder the intake air the more dense the air is, so you need more fuel for a given volume of air to maintain consistent air fuel ratios. How much depends on a myraid of variables so it takes time to setup the map and the correction factors to get a consistent tune.

That is why I was bringing up the water meth nozzle placement in relationship to the AIT sensor. If you don't want to the ECU to sense the water meth spray or compensate for the drastic temperature change that occurs when you are spraying (meaning you aren't tuning for power and mostly cleaning) you want the nozzle AFTER the sensor so the sensor doesn't see any change. The downside is you will have to manually tune in some additional fuel when you are spraying since the air will become more dense due to the temperature drop, or you can run lean. This will be consistent, however, if you spray all the time in boost, and if your other correction tables are in check, you can get it real consistent. The benefit to this is if for some reason your water meth system malfunctions and doesn't spray, your motor won't run lean (it will actually run rich since your tune is predicated on denser air) and no damage will be done.

If you want to tune the water meth for power, you place the sensor downstream of the nozzle so the sensor will read and react the temperature changes of the spray. This way you can dial in fuel and even ignition timing changes based on AIT sensor readings for the spray, but I warn this can be pretty risky. Again, if your system malfunctions, it could be game over since your tune is dependent on the spray. It is also much more difficult to get this style of tuning consistent due to environmental changes overlapping the temperature change the sensor will read due to the water meth (hope that all made sense lol I kind of blazed through it).

VRx8 · Postby **VRx8** » Thu Nov 08, 2012 9:14

Ok sense I don't want the engine to rely on W/I im going to put the sensor before the nozzle and I want to add more fuel when I start spraying around 5 psi. That way in case of a malfunction I just run pig rich instead of lean.

speedjunkie · Postby **speedjunkie** » Thu Nov 08, 2012 9:14

chickenwafer wrote:It's a much better location and gives a more accurate intake temperature.

This is arguable. It depends on what you're trying to get a read on more...the temp coming out of your IC or the temp going into the combustion chamber lol. If you want to see what the temps are right out of your IC, then the elbow would be better than right over the engine. But if you want to see the temps just before it enters the combustion chamber, the stock location would be more accurate I would think.

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