bought a 93 mx-5

Postby **RX-7 Chris** » Tue Feb 05, 2013 9:14

were the calipers changed out for the newer ones by the previous owner and the rotors left the stock size?

You might be able to a set of the matching rotor shields used on one of the forums. just look for a thread for a car part out. I would bet they would be cheap. When you change the hubs and CV's would be a great time to replace the shields.

chromal · Postby **chromal** » Tue Feb 05, 2013 9:14

What it was actually (and I did not recognize this until yesterday) was that it had previously upgraded right rears (including rotors), but that prior owner had not quite gotten around to doing the left rears. They included the loose parts needed to finish the job, but I didn't recognize these were replace+upgrade and not just a straight swap, nor that the other side was upgraded. I have no excuse, the smaller left and larger right rotors were removed the same day new rotors were ordered. To his credit, the seller most likely did tell me, but it was a lot of info quickly and I may not have absorbed this bit.

I definitely am going to measure the front rotors before buying any parts for that side, though that hopefully won't need to be before the next pad replacement up there. They are currently EBC yellowstuff, same as both rears (now).

As it stands now, the right rear has no rotor guard and the left rear has the OE size one, bent back and out of the way. Both sides are now the upgraded 1995+ m.y. 9.9" caliper, pad, and rotor sizes. The rear brakes are bled and themselves are working fine (still want to bleed the fronts), didn't get to it last night. That said, they could still use some additional tweaking, since I don't have any M springs for the pad clips and am missing one upgrade-size clip for the larger rotors. (have two 'half clips' possibly from front calipers in as substitute for missing rear pad clip).

This car feels like it could be pressed into daily driver duty now, excepting what I still believe is CV joint or wheel hub noise. Since dealing with either seems like 90% of the work to deal with the other, I figure I might as well just do both, along with the diff axle seals, on both rear sides. Hopefully I can replace with upsized rotor shield at same time the rear is apart. I was trying to figure out how they were attached last night, it wasn't obvious with the wheel knuckle still on the car, in my driveway after dark last night.

Time to start shopping.

erod550 · Postby **erod550** » Tue Feb 05, 2013 9:14

Ah brings back so many memories, lol. I had to replace both front wheel hubs on mine. It didn't come with good aftermarket shocks/springs unfortunately so had to replace those too as it would bottom out on every little bump. I also had a hole in the coolant overflow reservoir and used some duct tape on it until I could replace it. My hole was at the top though so it would only leak out when the car was hot.

I also had some brake issues as the right rear caliper was leaking, and less than a year later the master cylinder started leaking pretty badly so those have both been replaced. And I had a headlight motor get stripped out and no longer be able to hold up the headlight, and after replacing it, the headlight is aimed a bit low and like you said, the adjustment works... until you lower the headlights and lift them up again. So I need to pop it off the little gear and turn it and then put it back on the gear, just haven't gotten around to it yet and already broke 2-3 of the arms connecting to the headlight in the installation of the replacement motor.

I bought a water pump and timing belt kit too because I thought I was leaking coolant but it turned out to be brake fluid from the master cylinder, so I still have the whole kit sitting downstairs. I'll do it eventually, but I'm still putting it off because it'll be a big job.

Is your speedometer cable ok? Mine was pretty jacked up when I bought the car which would cause the needle to wobble in a 5-10mph arc so you just aim for the middle of the wobble, lol. It also made a very annoying sound as the cable was rubbing on the sheathing which is what caused the wobble. I replaced it a couple years ago and the new one started doing the same thing on me the last couple days. :\

Great work so far on the restoration. Look forward to reading more about it. I love my Miata and it's been one of the easiest cars to work on that I've ever owned.

Postby **RX-7 Chris** » Tue Feb 05, 2013 9:14

erod550 wrote:Is your speedometer cable ok? Mine was pretty jacked up when I bought the car which would cause the needle to wobble in a 5-10mph arc so you just aim for the middle of the wobble, lol. It also made a very annoying sound as the cable was rubbing on the sheathing which is what caused the wobble. I replaced it a couple years ago and the new one started doing the same thing on me the last couple days. :\

Pull the cable out of the sleeve and coat it with graphite lubricant and re-insert it. that should fix your problem.

erod550 · Postby **erod550** » Tue Feb 05, 2013 9:14

If it keeps it up I will do that. It seemed to stop once the car was warmed up so we'll see if it continues.

Edit - Actually I think it is sealed on both ends, which is why I had to replace the cable instead of just doing that to the original. So if it keeps it up I'll likely just be buying another cable. Or dealing with it cause I don't drive the car that often.

chromal · Postby **chromal** » Tue Feb 05, 2013 9:14

I've heard that at SCCA spec miata events, these mx5s are notorious for blowing wheel hub bearings. Not sure if that's because they're prone to go in general, or if old OE bearings give up life when pressed at the track. I don't own a hydraulic press or any of the special wheel hub related tools in the mazda service manual, so I'm kind of leaning toward getting rebuilt parts. OTOH, if I bought a hydraulic press... well, I've got a space-for-shop-tools issue, so probably rebuilts this time, haha.

I'll probably try again to deal with the headlights issue soon, it's super annoying on unlit mountain roads at night, too sketchy to not have to pop the hood and adjust it up for just that trip. Somewhere with street lighting would be more 'meh.' I'm pretty happy with their brightness and throw, those old massive circular halogen headlights still get it done. I'm wondering if my linkages should have a bushing on them or something-- the headlights tend to jump a bit on bumps, or when the wind resistance hits 70mph or so.

I'll get around to the timing belt and water pump replacement jobs at some point, but anything that isn't an imperative I hope to save for a warmer season, working out of my driveway up here on the mountain. Being a non-interference engine does make it seem less pressing.

Fortunately, the speedometer response seems to be pretty much normal, knock on wood. It's entirely possible it was replaced at some point. I hope it doesn't fail often, I don't like working on anything that begins or ends inside the dashboard.

So, here's the first photo of it assembled and in daylight, without the hardtop:

Am pretty sure the left hood hinge is bent, and the bumper cover isn't all that well secured. I believe both fenders, as well as the bumper cover, and hood... and rear trunk lid-- have been replaced at some point. The hood was from a hail damaged car, and I have the hail damaged trunk lid that goes with it as a loose part. The hood and left headlight assembly rub a little if I close it with them open. I'll continue tweaking the fitment as time and motivation allow.

For now, I'm just happy the passenger door is opening without hitting the fender edge.

erod550 · Postby **erod550** » Tue Feb 05, 2013 9:14

That windshield looks pretty good. Pretty sure mine is original because it is pitted to hell. I also have a slowly migrating crack just below the driver's field of vision. I should really replace it soon. When driving into the sun, even if the windshield is clean, it can be a little hard to see because of all the pits.

And the speedometer cable is pretty easy to replace. You just have to pull the plastic dome off from over the gauges (likely breaking one or all of the clips in the process) and it just comes straight through the firewall and into the back of the gauge cluster. The other end connects to the top of the transmission, so there's a bit of tight clearance under the car as you end up basically bear hugging the transmission but it isn't too bad. If you ever have to do it, keep an eye on all the places where it is tied down, so to speak, under the hood. You don't want it sticking out and rubbing on something.

RedRoadster · Postby **RedRoadster** » Tue Feb 05, 2013 9:14

Very nice. The only tidbit I have to offer is that the headrest speakers were apparently a package option, so not finding them isn't all that surprising.

chromal · Postby **chromal** » Wed Feb 06, 2013 9:14

Yeah, the windshield must have been replaced along the way, it's far less pitted than I've seen on similar or even younger cars. I'm grateful for that, my SAAB's has tons of microscopic pits that especially interfere with night visibility, or in direct sun.

Here's hoping the speedometer cable in this one lasts a while, but that doesn't sound so bad at all. Getting at the instrument cluster in my SAAB seemingly requires disassembling half the dashboard.

It's going to be a while before working on the audio is a priority, not sure if it's even worth having the headrest speakers. I'll probably install the kenwood unit I was given eventually just so that there isn't a gaping hole in the dashboard.

I let my roommate be my designated driver on a local trip with friends to dinner, since they were jonesing for the NA miata they sold before moving to CO (long story), so I was able to ride as a passenger on the round trip. It's pretty bad, in terms of loudness and vibration from what I presently suspect is the left half axle CV joint nearest the wheel hub. It really needs to be addressed before the car is driven. Happily, when some stupid stupid mule deer darted out in front, the brakes were absolutely there for us, good show. Otherwise, they thought that the clutch takeup was too high. A headlight popped shut when we hit a bump.

As far as the next restoration step, on the rear drivetrain, I want to plan this out a bit in advance, since I'll probably hire a shop's services to press in new wheel hub bearings. I'm still working out details such as whether I want to remove parts and rebuild or swap in rebuilt parts. I'm not even going to mess with the half axles, if the clicking is the CV joint, I'll assume damage is done and use them as cores or whatever.

Today, some stuff for the mx-5 arrived:

There's also a water pump on the way, though I probably am not going to do the timing belt job before the weather gets warmer. I'm not even going to do the spark plugs (and compression test) as soon as I'd like. Several inches of snow fell since getting home, and it looks like there's a more coming this weekend.

This is also limiting my ability to work on the rusted corner, though I do need to get myself to harbor freight for an angle grinder and some steel wire wheels. Good times!

erod550 · Postby **erod550** » Thu Feb 07, 2013 9:14

The clutch takeup was too high on mine when I got it too, to the point where if I drove it hard from light to light for a few stoplights it would get hot and start to smell and slip. It's a fairly easy adjustment on the pedal itself, just tight quarters getting upside down under the dash if you're not a small guy like I'm not.

I had a shop do my wheel bearings too. They charged around $100-120 I think to do the whole job, including removing and reinstalling the hub, because no matter how hard I tried I couldn't get the giant nut loose on one of them. Threw out my back trying if I recall correctly, lol.

For audio I don't have headrest speakers either, but even on the highway at 80mph with the top down, the two speakers in the door are enough to hear music or even talk radio if you turn them up real loud. My problem is the driver side speaker cuts out a lot so I usually only have the one speaker lol. I have a cheap $50 stereo from Wal-Mart.

chromal · Postby **chromal** » Sat Feb 09, 2013 9:14

Yeah, one write-up (http://www.miata.net/garage/axle.html) pretty much says you will destroy 1/2" drive sockets/bars getting spindle nuts off the miata. I'm wondering if my craftsman 19" 1/2"-drive breaker bar could take it with an impact wrench socket. Torque spec is 180 ft-lb on the spindle nut, but rust/corrosion can I guess push what's needed to break it loose past the recommended 200 ft-lb limit of 1/2" drive. This is when I break out a 8' cheater pipe to slide over the breaker bar.

But I might try an air-powered impact wrench, via harbor freight.

So I'm starting to become familiar with places to get used OE miata parts. Most of the things I've gone looking for I've found, even things like OE headrest speakers for $30 a seat. I'll see how the infinities already in the doors sound, first.

As far as incoming new parts, I've now placed an order for some rear hardware; spindle nuts, SKF wheel bearings and retainer clips, wheel seals, and even a disc brake hardware kit so I can install the M clips on the rear pad clips (and replace the jury rigged front clip on one side of one caliper.) I'm probably going to go pick up an impact wrench and 29mm or 1-1/8" impact socket. Debating the merits of 1/2 v 3/4" drive, will most likely just get a harbor freight pneumatic impact wrench for as often as I will need it.

For OE pulls, so far, I've found: (ebay/craigslist), partsgroup.com, planet-miata.com, treasurecoastmiata.com, and flyinmiata.com to have some decent deals. treasurecoastmiata has rear uprights with hub for $65, partsgroup for $85. One of them might even be able to supply hub with '94-'97 (larger) rotor dust shields, if I'm lucky. I just need to verify a '94-97 rear upright will otherwise fit a '90-'93 with '94-97 brakes. With loose part in hard, I assume it would be straightforward to take them to some shop with bearings and retainers and have 'em press out the old and press in the new bearings.

Here's a driveway portrait:

geo2maz · Postby **geo2maz** » Sat Feb 09, 2013 9:14

Love the driveway portrait, wish I lived in the woods!

chromal · Postby **chromal** » Mon Feb 18, 2013 9:14

It's all right, geo2maz.

It's a quiet place. There's a fox that comes by looking for food. Everything is a long twisty drive away. Semi-isolation from neighbors, funky late-1950s subdivision, little more than graded jeep trails.

Work continues on the Miata, today. Enough snow melted over the weekend to give it a go. When l left it, I knew something was amiss in the rear drivetrain, just a ton of noise and vibration. I ordered replacement wheel bearings because it's reasonable to assume they could be replaced after 20 years, but didn't know for sure what the problem was.

After a trip to harbor freight, I tried a 'central pneumatic' 'dual-action' impact wrench. It didn't seem to do much to the spindle nut, but it might have helped, it didn't disearnably 'break' free when I gave up and just used a craftsman 19" breaker bar with a 1/2"-drive impact socket.

New solid rubber chocks wedged into the front tires, I jack the car, place a jackstand, and get to work.

Obviously the brake caliper and bracket come off easily. The suspension bolts seem clean, probably not OE, likely replaced along with the shocks/springs. Aside from the lower control arm long bolt having corroded into the spindle, everything came apart reasonable well. I did get a lot of use out of my new harbor freight brass hammer, should have picked one of those up long ago.

Getting the half axle off the diff required removing four nuts and lock washers, but first I had to get through a thick layer of gearbox oil sludge caked all over the half axle and diff case. I could see spray marks where oil had been flung off, coating the unibody above and exhaust heat shield below.

Needs diff seals. Looks like it has leaked a lot of fluid, however, the diff was full of relatively clean looking oil. Topped off? Seal replaced, but case not cleaned? Wishful thinking, I'll bet those seals were installed in Japan two decades ago. Now, or in a few months when it's warmer?

Getting the left half axle off the wheel hub took some persistence with the brass hammer and PB spray, but they eventually parted. Upon inspection, the half axle was dirty, but seems OK. No holes in the boots, although the CV joint nearest the diff makes a sound when sliding in or out, none of the telltale bad-half-axle stuff. The wheel hub bearing seems to be in some early stage of failure, with loose metal bits tinkling a little, and other rough noises.

At this point, I have replacement bearings, bearing clips, and wheel seals for both rears. The next step is to part and inspect the right rear wheelhub from the half axle, and then take both rear 'uprights' or spindle/wheelhub assemblies, along with the new parts, to a full service garage or shop to press out the wheel hubs, replace the bearings, and press it all back together.

If I wanted to install the larger '94-'97 rear rotor dust shields, it would need to be done while the wheel hub was pressed out, at $25 a side for the part. Those shipped would be about $75 a set, plus whatever installation on the spindles runs me. I'm on the fence about this, and sourcing these would probably add a week or two delay to replacing the wheel bearings.

chromal · Postby **chromal** » Thu Feb 28, 2013 9:14

This past Saturday it was actually sunny and nice before the snowstorm arrived. I spent a little time with the miata and got the passenger side rear upright spindle/hub assembly off the car without too much trouble. The wheel bearing on this side seemed just fine, but it made the most sense to me to replace wheel bearings in left/right pairs all together.

I had been given a quote from a local Mazda dealership I frequent. If I walked in with the rear uprights loose in hand and new wheel bearings for them to install, they wanted $350 to press in the new bearings for just labor. Yeah...

I took them instead to a local ASE certified garage/shop. $105 total for just labor to press in the new bearings and wheel seals for both rear uprights, as well as remove the too-small and bent left-side brake rotor dust shield. That's more like it. Picked up the rebuilt rear upright assemblies this morning. Hopefully I can reassemble the miata on Saturday and see if that fixes all noise/vibration.

Rear NA miata upright rebuild costs (per corner):

spindle nut $7.50
bearing retainer $2.43
SKF bearing $25.89
Wheel Seal $4.57
Parts shipping $9.45
shop labor $52.50
--- rebuilt cost $102.34 per side

Not sure if I could have done much better on price without compromising something.

chromal · Postby **chromal** » Sat Mar 02, 2013 9:14

Put it back together today, rear uprights and half axles back on the car. New rear brake pad clips and the missing M springs. Torqued the rear wheel hub spindle nuts to about 160 ft-lb, didn't notch the spindle nut into the axle end yet, wanted to take it for a test drive.

Overall, simply much better. The excessive noise and vibration from the bad rear left wheel bearing appears to have been the major problem. I took the miata for a spirited drive down Shadow Mountain, Turkey Creek, and then up Dear Creek Canyon and High Grade Road into Conifer. Just a blast, it really is like a street legal go-cart, and has more available torque than my civic, pretty much across the entire RPM band.

There are many more things I want to do, but now the car is at a point where I feel I could daily drive it!

bought a 93 mx-5

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