speed3 only making 10lbs of boost
- KILLER_VIZ
- Senior Member
- Posts: 263
- Joined: Sun Oct 23, 2011 9:14
- Location: Thornton
KILLER_VIZ wrote:I hit 15 stock no problem here. Check all your connections on your cai. The only time I had low boost was when my TIP came off the turbo.
If you hit 15 stock at this altitude, it means your car was already modified without you knowing, you have bolt-ons, or there was a serious problem somewhere.... Although you do have a 2011, which has been reworked slightly. The atmospheric pressure we have in CO won't allow for the same psi as sea level though, regardless of mods. So you'd be hitting 18+ at sea level in stock form = something seriously fubar with your mazda.
Basically, the MS3 doesn't have the ability to target a specific psi. This is fairly standard of most turbo cars. What happens is the turbo ends up spinning the same amount, but because it lacks the same atmospheric pressure, it is sending less air into the manifold while working just as hard. This can be compensated with some sort of boost controller, but will be less efficient because the turbo is working harder to produce the same pressure as if it were at sea level.
mOOsE wrote:I'd keep it stock lol... maybe intake.
Been several people that mod theirs, decide that no traction isn't fun, then sell it. Just a heads up unless you like burnouts
You still have plenty of traction from 3rd gear on up. And beating older V8s up here from a roll is a lot of fun. So there is still a lot of fun to be had, and it's certainly more fun to have traction issues in 1st and 2nd and be a total beast in 3rd and 4th than it was to have crap power in all gears but have good traction, lol.
Getting tired of FWD in general is why I got rid of mine, which even if it was still close to stock it would still understeer like a bitch when trying to push it through turns, plus being slow in a straight line as well, so it wouldn't have changed anything.
2015 Ironman Silver Veloster Turbo - Bone stock and staying that way
1990 Crystal White Miata - Beater - Bignose 1.6L Swap, Robbins Top w/Glass Window, E-Codes, Air Horns, Brembo Rotors
Former Rides:
2011 Kona Blue Mustang GT 5.0
2009 True Red Mazdaspeed3 GT
2005 Flame Red SRT-4
1990 Crystal White Miata - Beater - Bignose 1.6L Swap, Robbins Top w/Glass Window, E-Codes, Air Horns, Brembo Rotors
Former Rides:
2011 Kona Blue Mustang GT 5.0
2009 True Red Mazdaspeed3 GT
2005 Flame Red SRT-4
- KILLER_VIZ
- Senior Member
- Posts: 263
- Joined: Sun Oct 23, 2011 9:14
- Location: Thornton
mOOsE wrote:If you hit 15 stock at this altitude, it means your car was already modified without you knowing, you have bolt-ons, or there was a serious problem somewhere.... Although you do have a 2011, which has been reworked slightly. The atmospheric pressure we have in CO won't allow for the same psi as sea level though, regardless of mods. So you'd be hitting 18+ at sea level in stock form = something seriously fubar with your mazda.
My bad I had the TIP, AP. SRI. Bought my car brand new and hit 15 on my ap all the time till my tip slipped off.
So my '11 MS3 hits 15 easy and it's stock. It used to cap off at 10-11 PSI in the first 3 gears, then I removed the 0-60 limiter. Now it pulls very hard through all gears, plus the power band is now carried all the way up to red line. I'd definitely get a AP or Hypertech to remove the 0-60 limiter.
Also, My MS6 was only getting like 7 lbs plus or minus a few...dont have a boost guage on her yet. I found that the tubes on both sides of my TMIC were completely shot. I replaced the tubes and now she's pulling very hard. Plus the hypertech works on her too so I just go back and forth lol.
Also, My MS6 was only getting like 7 lbs plus or minus a few...dont have a boost guage on her yet. I found that the tubes on both sides of my TMIC were completely shot. I replaced the tubes and now she's pulling very hard. Plus the hypertech works on her too so I just go back and forth lol.
whobeyou wrote:So my '11 MS3 hits 15 easy and it's stock. It used to cap off at 10-11 PSI in the first 3 gears, then I removed the 0-60 limiter. Now it pulls very hard through all gears, plus the power band is now carried all the way up to red line. I'd definitely get a AP or Hypertech to remove the 0-60 limiter.
Also, My MS6 was only getting like 7 lbs plus or minus a few...dont have a boost guage on her yet. I found that the tubes on both sides of my TMIC were completely shot. I replaced the tubes and now she's pulling very hard. Plus the hypertech works on her too so I just go back and forth lol.
lol, it's not stock if you removed the 0-60 limiter (which limits boost). If you are using the AP or Hypertech, both up the boost with even the "stock" or stage 1 settings. I had a Hypertech on mine and it also removed the limiter and upped the boost slightly.
mOOsE wrote:lol, it's not stock if you removed the 0-60 limiter (which limits boost). If you are using the AP or Hypertech, both up the boost with even the "stock" or stage 1 settings. I had a Hypertech on mine and it also removed the limiter and upped the boost slightly.
Right, I know the engine mappings aren't stock, but that's literally the only thing I've done to the car. I have a warranty and have to be careful about what I do to the car so I don't void it. Everything else on the car is bone stock.
whobeyou wrote:Right, I know the engine mappings aren't stock, but that's literally the only thing I've done to the car. I have a warranty and have to be careful about what I do to the car so I don't void it. Everything else on the car is bone stock.
yeah, was just saying that your maps were changed, which explains the boost. Without it you'd be at the same 10lbs we are at, maybe 13 after 3rd gear. Did you go AP or Hypertech? I had picked up a cheap Hypertech for mine when I had it, liked the ease of use, but the AP definitely is good for long term and other mods.
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