Build thread

Postby **RX-7 Chris** » Fri Dec 19, 2014 9:14

Al has a battery that is have the size of a standard and more powerful. I can't remember what kind it is though. I seem to remember it was over $300.

speedjunkie · Postby **speedjunkie** » Fri Dec 19, 2014 9:14

I think it's a Kinetic. He's told me about it before. I think he mainly has it because of his sound system.

Last night I talked to the guy that will design the CAD for the new wheels. He said he'll do it for cheap (dirt cheap compared to what I figured I'd pay), but he doesn't want me to divulge how much. He's trying to start a wheel company and asked if I'd advertise for him and get his name out there and I said I would. He said it would be fairly easy since what I want is already out there, just not in 3pc. He said he'd still have it checked as far as stress testing, but I would think it would be fine since that design is already in use, albeit in a monoblock. Now all I have to do once I get what I need from him is find a place with a CNC machine, local if possible. My buddy still hasn't heard back from his guy on whether he'd do it. Then I'll get rim halves, hardware, valve stems and sealant from any number of different places that sell that stuff (I had no idea there were several choices), and put it all together and get new tires mounted. But before I do all that I need to get home and install the ducting plates and ducts for the brakes and check for clearance with the wheel turned and see how wide I can go without hitting.

I talked to PureRX7 on 7club and he told me he has some Japanese Ohlins DFV coilovers (apparently they are a bit different than the new Road & Track version and more coveted in Japan but I don't yet know why) that are used, about 4500 miles on them, for $1800 shipped. That's a better price than $2413 for a set of the new ones, but I want to find out more about the differences first. He said they need to be cleaned and they have a scratch on the threads of one of the strut bodies but it can be fixed. He also said the DFV doesn't have any less adjustability than the higher end/more expensive models, but I'm thinking he just means that it's not adjustable by the end user lol. I'm also trying to decide if I want to switch to Swift springs or stick with the Ohlins springs that come on it. I've always wanted some Swift springs, but from what I understand these coilovers are awesome the way they are, and with 11Kg spring rates front and rear.

I've been talking to Brian (TitaniumTT on 7club and RCC, he's the guy with the silver FC that stopped through a few years ago) about the new ECU and he mentioned he's switching to a 4 port solenoid for his boost controller. Apparently this allows you to run a much lighter wastegate spring but still lets you run high boost, so you can use the boost controller to have high or low boost. I'm still checking on what all this entails and if it would even be beneficial for me since I don't even change my boost settings as it is haha.

lOOkatme · Postby **lOOkatme** » Fri Dec 19, 2014 9:14

I have swift springs on my car right now. I bought them used from members off different forums. I got a set for the rear for $60 (6KG) and I run 8KG front I think I paid $100 for those.

I like the springs but I don't know how much is attributed to the springs being consistent or the different springs rates from the 12KG F+R I used to have. I do like the softer springs a lot more.

speedjunkie · Postby **speedjunkie** » Sat Dec 20, 2014 9:14

I'll have to see if I can find some Swift springs for a good deal, that way I can swap them and try it out and I can swap back if I don't like it as much.

I didn't think to ask, but you didn't get your coilovers revalved for the lighter springs, did you?

lOOkatme · Postby **lOOkatme** » Sat Dec 20, 2014 9:14

speedjunkie wrote:I'll have to see if I can find some Swift springs for a good deal, that way I can swap them and try it out and I can swap back if I don't like it as much.

I didn't think to ask, but you didn't get your coilovers revalved for the lighter springs, did you?

No, didn't need to revalve. most shocks have a very wide range of adjustment.

speedjunkie · Postby **speedjunkie** » Sun Dec 21, 2014 9:14

Ok cool. I know the Ohlins you can go as high as 14kg and as low as 9kg I think. Anything outside that range needs a revalve.

Charles at CJ Motorsports told me he's not sure if he's interested in doing all the work for the fuel rail because he probably won't sell more than 10 of them, and he's probably right. So I'm gauging interest on 7Club and RCC to see if anyone else is interested. I may just drop the fuel pulsation damper and then he'd do it.

speedjunkie · Postby **speedjunkie** » Mon Dec 22, 2014 9:14

Just bought the Ohlins DFVs a few hours ago. And the brake rotors are on back order. Should be shipped 8 Jan.

Website · Postby **Shadowden** » Tue Dec 23, 2014 9:14

Rollin' on Ohlins!

Good choice Junkie. Hopefully you get your car up and running soon after you return from your trip.

speedjunkie · Postby **speedjunkie** » Tue Dec 23, 2014 9:14

Yeah BOOOOYYYYYYYY! I'm so excited about that purchase lol. I've wanted some for so long. Rather, I just wanted a coilover that felt better on the street and could still perform. And from everything I've read, this is the crown jewel that gets me there. WOOHOO!!! I seriously doubt the car will be up and running very soon after I get back haha. I have SOOO much to do. Granted, some of the stuff can wait until later, but I'll be excited and probably knock out a lot of it right away.

Relocate relay/fuse boxes
move 2-cycle OMP tank
install different intake elbow and piping
install new IC (I've been talking to Andy about this one, we're possibly trading ICs)
install new brakes
install duct plates and ducts
install new wheel bearings
install new coilovers
remove suspension arms, sandblast, clearcoat and reinstall
spray underbody coating in wheel wells
fab and install SS hardlines for boost control solenoid (might switch to 4 port solenoid)
adjust sway bars if needed
install new strut bar if it doesn't hit the hood
install roll bar
install new seats and rails
move fire extinguisher to new location
reinstall ABS sensors
remake battery tray and get smaller battery
make (or rather HAVE MADE) water injection tank and route lines
Swap guts of RX-8 starter into FD starter
install Banzai transmission brace if I get one
change engine mounts back to Noltecs if new strut bar fits
install new fuel filters if I get them
build and install new wheels if it goes through
have AC lines made
duct VMIC (either install original aluminum ducting or make fiberglass ducting)
get with Matt and Bobby to make the cruise control circuit board
install additional parts in Indiana (knock sensors, FFE crank trigger kit, turbo speed sensor, AEM coils, iPad in the DIN)

I'd also like to finally figure out the glovebox situation with the airbag pocket, possibly switch to a 3.5" or 4" downpipe, and figure something out for the in-tank surge tank. And someday I'd like to do the suede/Spirit R interior. Oh, and on top of all that work, I need to get it actually RUNNING before I go to Indiana haha. Actually, I COULD trailer it out there, but I'd rather drive it.

I'm having another dilemma. Trying to decide on flex fuel. If I do this, it will add so much more work to the time before I take the car to Indiana. Also, it may damage parts or blow my engine over time. I really only planned to use it during the summer and only so often, but I'm still concerned. I already have water injection, so I should be good. I just figured I'd go ahead and build the system for possible expansion later. But I've been reading and I'm not sure even my injectors will work with it without corroding. Also, I imagine I'll have to swap pumps, lines, pressure sensors possibly, SOOO much stuff.

In my research, I also learned the ID2000 injectors have an internal 7 micron filter, so my 10 micron filters aren't helping as much as I thought. Fuel Lab makes a 6 micron filter, I'm thinking about getting a couple of those.

speedjunkie · Postby **speedjunkie** » Sun Dec 28, 2014 9:14

I've been thinking about the dash screen setup in the double DIN slot. I'm not entirely sure I want to do a Galaxy Tab or iPad Mini anymore. I'm kinda leaning towards doing a CarPC instead. I emailed Chris to see if it would still be compatible with the ECU and what we're trying to do. I'm thinking about something like this, but I'm not sure on the quality or other potential issues.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Universal-7-HD-3D-Headunit-Android4-1-Car-PC-Dual-Core-CPU-GPS-3G-WiFi-Radio-8G-/171548437964?pt=US_Video_In_Dash_Units_w_GPS&hash=item27f1156dcc&vxp=mtr

Although I kinda like that this one has actual dials for the volume, etc. But it makes the viewable area for the gauges smaller.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Android-Car-PC-GPS-Navi-Stereo-Radio-DVD-Player-6-2-3G-WiFi-Bluetooth-Camera-/331303487012?pt=Car_Audio_In_Dash_Receivers&hash=item4d233a0624

Also, I want to make 100% sure it's touch screen. I don't want to be messing with buttons to try to get where I'm going.

Website · Postby **Shadowden** » Mon Dec 29, 2014 9:14

You are a glutton for punishment. What would the advantage of flex fuel be?

Saul_Good · Postby **Saul_Good** » Mon Dec 29, 2014 9:14

Shadowden wrote: What would the advantage of flex fuel be?

In a nutshell, more boost & timing since E85 is like racegas.

speedjunkie · Postby **speedjunkie** » Mon Dec 29, 2014 9:14

Shadowden wrote:You are a glutton for punishment. What would the advantage of flex fuel be?

One would think, but I actually enjoy doing all this work lol. Unfortunately it seems to be never ending, and funds like to prove the contrary haha.

Saul_Good wrote:In a nutshell, more boost & timing since E85 is like racegas.

Correct. Although I think I'm going to skip the flex fuel part, at least for now. I've heard a lot of cons to doing flex fuel, along with the pros, and after weighing it all out, I might skip it. I'm talking to CJ Motorsports about doing a 4 port fuel rail for me with the extra port for the pressure sensor, but it won't have a fuel pulsation damper because there is no room. That's OK, no biggie. I asked them if they could also cut a 2 port rail with FPD and the extra port for the sensor. This way, if I choose to switch to flex fuel at some point, I will have all the parts and it'll be easier. However, I'm still talking to Chris about making the harness so that I can expand later as well, and then I'll just have him retune.

These are the pros and cons I've found so far about running flex fuel, from what I've found in personal experiences.

Pros-
-More boost and timing, as Luis said
-Wouldn't have to deal with water injection
-Flex fuel allows any mix of pump gas/E85, so I could do E85 for track days and fun drives, and pump gas for long trips and casual drives
-Because of more boost and timing, I can make way more power than with pump gas without changing much, but I don't really care as much about that

Cons-
-Have to revamp the whole system already
-Some have experienced rust in the injectors, causing them to fail = engine go boom
-Added cost of special premix
-Not as good of fuel mileage, although this one is a moot point AFAIC
-Some have seen large variances in ethanol content between different stations and different seasons, although the sensor should mitigate this

I may have missed a few pros and/or cons, this is what I can remember for now. I may eventually switch, especially if it becomes more readily available, cheaper, or more reliable. But as of right now, it seems like too big of a job and I'm really just interested in getting the car back on the road. I'm not so concerned with big numbers at this point, and I'd much rather have a more reliable car with decent/good power (380-450) than a not-as-reliable rotary with insane power (500+). I already have pretty much good/decent power now, but it hasn't been as reliable, and that's what I'm hoping to achieve with this new ECU and other safety parameters in place. I figure with flex fuel I could get power and more reliability, but I might wait a few more years and see where this goes before switching. I'll let others be the guinea pigs on that haha. There still seems to be just too much mystery about this fuel with rotaries to make me switch. If I can at least have the harness and all the other parts available for the swap, I'll be happy.

speedjunkie · Postby **speedjunkie** » Mon Dec 29, 2014 9:14

I'm also again looking into building a custom IC haha. I need to find some end tanks or get some made, and find the right size core. Finding the core shouldn't be a problem. Finding end tanks to fit the core I want, that's where I ran into problems the last time.

speedjunkie · Postby **speedjunkie** » Fri Jan 02, 2015 9:14

I was looking at the Syvecs forum the other night and saw that they're still planning on doing an app for Android WOOHOO!!!

http://www.syvecs.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=26&t=502&p=3283

I might just get this unit and be done with it...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Android-4-2-2-Din-Capacitive-3G-Wifi-Car-GPS-DVD-Player-BT-Stereo-Radio-2-Core-/151309070835?pt=US_Video_In_Dash_Units_w_GPS&hash=item233ab931f3

I have to take measurements of the DIN slot though to make sure it's the right size. I don't want to waste too much space with the trim of the stereo and with filler pieces. If that's the case I'll just do a tablet of some kind anyway.

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