Build thread

[speedjunkie]

I found some IC cores, but again, I'm having a hard time finding cast end tanks to fit any of the sizes I'm looking at. So I'll probably be getting end tanks made. And if that happens, I might see if I can have some baffles put in, like this one has...

http://www.treadstoneperformance.com/product.phtml?p=68102&cat_key=449&prodname=Treadstone+E1235+Intercooler+Endtank

Andy measured my IC core at 15.75" x 10.25" x 4". I'd like to keep it pretty close to that because it seems to work well for my setup. I don't want to lose too much pressure across the core, but I also don't want to make it so big it's not efficient. Also, I can't go much larger due to space limitations, but I don't want to go larger anyway. If anything, I might go just a tad bit smaller. My goal is also to smooth out the airflow in the end tanks, basically making it as direct as possible from the turbo to the intake elbow. However, I'm wondering if this might speed up the air too much for the IC to be efficient. The air needs to be slow enough that the ambient air pulls heat out, otherwise it's pointless to have an IC.

I found these cores the other day, a couple on Treadstone and several different sizes on Bell. This Treadstone IC might be a bit too long since my IC is hitting my filter pipe to the turbo already the way it's currently set up, unless I can make the end tanks a little slimmer.

http://www.treadstoneperformance.com/product.phtml?p=68157&cat_key=65&prodname=CPOR+Porsche+Intercooler+Core+996

I like this core because it the way the fins are designed is more efficient, but it is smaller. I just hope it's not too small.

http://www.treadstoneperformance.com/product.phtml?p=69188&cat_key=65&prodname=CV813+Intercooler+Core

I tried to copy and paste the sizes of the IC cores I found on Bell, but it didn't keep the layout and it was just a bunch of jumbled crap lol, so I deleted it.

[speedjunkie]

And here are the 3.5" sizes from Bell and their prices and flow rates. Hopefully attaching it this way works.

3.508.1014.00462$292.00A3500811403.508.4014.00479$301.00A3500841403.508.5014.00485$303.00A3500851403.508.8014.00502$311.00A3500881403.509.0014.00514$317.00A3500901403.509.2014.00525$322.00A3500921403.509.4014.00536$327.00A3500941403.509.7014.00554$335.00A3500971403.509.8014.00559$338.00A3500981403.5010.1014.00576$346.00A350101140

[speedjunkie]

I'm also switching to NGK race plugs. I've been running 9s on all four for a while now. They don't last that long though. Chris suggested doing 10.5 heat range and I'm going with the Iridium 7420 plugs. After reading up on them, they seem to last a long time, they make good power, and they still do well on street cars. The only downside is they're a lot more expensive lol. Getting all stock plugs or 9s all around usually costs about $7-10 per plug, so usually no more than about $40. These usually go for $33 PER PLUG, so about $120. I found them for $27 at O'Reilly, hopefully they still carry them. And I think they're about $29 at Napa.

There is a chance I can get a good deal on a new diffuser so I might get one in Carbon Kevlar this time so it will be stronger...hopefully lol. I might still try to build it up and make it more sturdy. If it can't take being backed into a parking block...LOL. Come to think of it, I'm not sure there is anyone on this site anymore that was there for that lol.

A guy in Longmont posted on facebook trying to sell some parts, so I got a JDM intake manifold set from him. What I like about the JDM set is they don't have all the extra crap on the UIM that you have to block off. I was thinking they didn't have a couple of the vacuum nipples on the front either (the ones I'm not using) but apparently they do. That's alright, I'll pull out the nipples I'm not using, thread the hole and put a bolt in them with some sealant on the threads. I was also thinking of pulling the nipples that I do plan on using and thread those holes and put barbed nipples in, but I haven't had too many problems with vacuum lines flying off. It's not like I'm pushing crazy boost or anything.

Since I'm doing a lot of new intake parts anyway, I was thinking about getting them coated in a diffrerent color. Not too much different, maybe gunmetal or something. Black isn't much easier to keep clean than white or chrome would be, so I figure gunmetal might be able to hide the dirt a little better lol. Black chrome would be awesome, or crinkle black like Dave McLarty did on his intake parts a few years ago. I might have the LIM ceramic coated this time and possibly make a heat shield to use instead of the gold tape. It just doesn't stay on very well and look clean.

I've taken a break on looking for brake pads, but I'm kinda leaning towards the Carbotech AX6. I will have ducting and more efficient rotors on this new setup so I should be able to run a more streetable pad without having to worry about brake fade, in theory. I don't believe I've ever encountered brake fade as it is, and I've been using EBC pads which don't have the greatest track record (pun intended)...from what I've read, they tend to fry after a few sessions. I might try Winmax instead of the Carbotechs, but I'm not 100% crazy about being a guinea pig when it comes to brake pads.

[speedjunkie]

Well, CJM just failed to come through. They finished cutting their fuel rails before getting to my email I guess. I'm really pissed to be honest.

EDIT: I may have spoken too soon. They are saying they can cut a rail from scratch. I guess I'll see how this plays out.

[lOOkatme]

don't forget a velocity stack on the intake and a large low pressure drop filter.

lots of people focus on exhaust backpressure and the pressure the exhaust emits on the turbo, little do people talk about the pressure drop across the air filter. get a large filter for your next set up and a velocity stack. so you buy the velocity stack, say 3.5" pipe to 6" OD of velocity stack, then stick a 6" ID air filter over the velocity stack. lower pressure drop, better air flow, win all around.

[speedjunkie]

I think my turbo inlet is 4", so I'd stick with my 4" pipe probably. I did get a 3.5" pipe to use for when the AC lines go through there, but I flipped the pipe I'm using and it kinda works. If I do a new IC that isn't quite as long I should be able to flip the pipe back over and use the same one. I was running into problems with the pipe contacting the IC and AC pipes.

[speedjunkie]

Jesse is doing a VMIC and single turbo now too. He gave me the name of the eBay company where he got his IC, and I found this IC. I think it might work pretty well. The size is almost perfect, and although the tanks will need a small bit of work to make them the way I want, it shouldn't be too much. It's a little slimmer than I'd like at 3.25", I'm hoping the end tanks can be modified without leaving shavings in the IC, and I'm hoping the quality is good. Jesse said he'll let me know how well his works. The price is phenomenal though.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/CXRacing-Turbo-V-Mount-Intercooler-FMIC-RX7-FD3S-/390089269845?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item5ad321e255

[speedjunkie]

I got an email from Chris saying Syvecs will have the Android app on display at the Autosport International show in England 8-11 Jan and will be released soon after that. WOOHOO!!!!

Also, I was searching for ATE Super Blue brake fluid last night, which is the fluid that I've been using for the last few years, and apparently it's always been illegal and Continental has decided to pull it from the shelves in the US, but you can still get it overseas and I've found some places on eBay in Germany that will ship to the US. I might just see if there is a better alternative though, and if not, I'll order it on eBay. From what I've read, Super Blue doens't have as high of a wet boiling point as some other fluids, but apparently you don't have to change it as often either. I'm not sure.

[Shadowden]

What is the advantage of the blue if it has a lower boiling point? Don't you want a higher boiling point to keep your HP and stopping ability in balance?

[Huzer]

The Blue color was to assist in fluid swaps to verify a complete fluid change. It was meant to alternate with the ATE Typ 200 Gold, which is the same fluid, without the blue color. If you're happy with Blue, just get the standard Typ 200. Same exact stuff.

[Shadowden]

Your post caused me to investigate brake fluid further. Seems like the numbers on the ATE are pretty good. I looked at the carbotech site with their brake fluids as a comparison.

[Saul_Good]

Best damn fluid for the money right here.

http://rs683.com/

- Low affinity to moisture
- Low compressibility - makes the pedal feel firm
- Longer durations between bleeding and flushing
- Super High dry boiling point
- Very High wet boiling point

[speedjunkie]

What is the advantage of the blue if it has a lower boiling point? Don't you want a higher boiling point to keep your HP and stopping ability in balance?

Another thing to look at is length of time between swaps. If I'm tracking the car on a regular basis, then that doesn't really matter as much. If I never get it on the track, then it matters a lot lol.

The Blue color was to assist in fluid swaps to verify a complete fluid change. It was meant to alternate with the ATE Typ 200 Gold, which is the same fluid, without the blue color. If you're happy with Blue, just get the standard Typ 200. Same exact stuff.

Yep. Yeah I know the standard stuff is the same, but I like that it's easier to tell if my fluid is low if it's blue rather than clear. That's the real reason I swapped to it in the first place.

Your post caused me to investigate brake fluid further. Seems like the numbers on the ATE are pretty good. I looked at the carbotech site with their brake fluids as a comparison.

Yeah they're not bad. Not the best, but pretty good. One good thing is you don't have to change it as much.

Best damn fluid for the money right here.

http://rs683.com/

- Low affinity to moisture
- Low compressibility - makes the pedal feel firm
- Longer durations between bleeding and flushing
- Super High dry boiling point
- Very High wet boiling point

Thanks! I was actually going to do a search on brake fluid. How easy is it to get this stuff?

[lOOkatme]

I have extra ATE bluestuff if you need some;)

you know its good when they ban it!

[lOOkatme]

Jesse is doing a VMIC and single turbo now too. He gave me the name of the eBay company where he got his IC, and I found this IC. I think it might work pretty well. The size is almost perfect, and although the tanks will need a small bit of work to make them the way I want, it shouldn't be too much. It's a little slimmer than I'd like at 3.25", I'm hoping the end tanks can be modified without leaving shavings in the IC, and I'm hoping the quality is good. Jesse said he'll let me know how well his works. The price is phenomenal though.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/CXRacing-Turbo-V-Mount-Intercooler-FMIC-RX7-FD3S-/390089269845?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item5ad321e255

Geoff is running this intercooler and it works great. We tuned to 10-11PSI, let him break in his turbo and will turn the boost up some more after everything is sorted out (he had some exhaust leaks as well). I am going to retune him after he fixes the exhaust leak.

He was running under 20 degrees from ambient the whole time, the intake in the bumper and intercooler did its job. His water temps were also perfect.

ambient when tuning was around 64-68F, his AIT's were around 86-87F. about 20 degrees. exactly where you want to be.