Build thread

[speedjunkie]

Today I pushed the foam out of the molds for the ducting and test fit them on the car, and they fit really well. They're fairly sturdy already but I'm going to add a few more layers for strength and use some bondo to smooth them out and make them look better. But first I'll trim them and get them to fit tight.



I also cut the foam for the seats and it turned out pretty well. I put them back in the car and test fit with the helmet and it's pretty much perfect. And I have to say that carving knife worked great.



I have some pieces to cut for a couple of the mounting points on the front bumper that I'm going to fiberglass on tomorrow when I add the material to the oil cooler ducts, and possibly finally try to finish the IC ducting too.

I've been thinking about making my own FEED style combo lights to replace the turn signals. They're $400 for the halogen ones and over $1000 for the HID ones, and it's basically just a bracket and three lights on each side. I plan on doing LED lights for headlights at some point, so I'm thinking I'll piece together some LED lights for the running lights/parking lights. The only thing is the other two lights might be hard to come by. Not sure yet.

[speedjunkie]

I finally laid more fiberglass on the oil cooler ducts last night. I cut pieces to fit as well as possible in two separate pieces, and almost thought of doing one piece. I laid the two pieces out on the inside of each duct so it's one solid piece and smoother. I plan to lay some more on the outside of the ducts too. That's about all I've done over the last few days haha.

I decided to just get the FEED combo lights and swap out the halogen bulb for an LED bulb. I've also pretty well decided to just cut the metal out for the RE-Amemiya sleek lights and swap those bulbs to LED as well. I've been told the bulb for the FEED lights is H3, and the same for the original RE-A lights that I have. I still want to have regular and brights. Regular is usually around 700 lumens and brights are usually around 1200 lumens. Both of those can be found in H3 bulbs, so that shouldn't be a problem. My only concern is whether the pattern from that reflector is good for headlights. A second set of lights came out for the RE-A sleek kit, an upgraded HID kit, or halogen kit using H11 bulbs. They use different lights but they sit a little further forward than the original lights. I love how far back the original lights sit, but if they're not as functional as the upgraded lights, I might make that move. RHDJapan has the upgraded lights along for around $600. At least I think they do, now I can't find them but I swear I saw them the other night. I might just buy the whole kit, it's about $1200.

I also test fit the light covers I got, and I'm not crazy about how they fit. They bulge up a little too much for my taste. RE-A covers are on RHDJapan for about $175. It's a bit much but I'll probably get those to make sure they fit well.
http://www.rhdjapan.com/re-amemiya-slee ... s-13b.html

[speedjunkie]

I laid some more fiberglass on the outside of the oil cooler ducts last night. These things are stupid strong now, and a good bit heavier than they were haha. I'd prefer if they weren't heavier, but they look better now and they're strong enough to survive just about anything. I'm actually curious what will be damaged more in the event of an accident, the coolers and mounts, or the ducts lol.

I'm still trimming them and drilling the holes to mount them. I'll post pics once they're mounted.

I've decided to just buy a whole RE-Amemiya headlight kit instead of fooling around trying to make something. I think I'm going to change their mounting design a little though and try to hide the mount brackets as much as possible.

[Shadowden]

I really need to get my composite work going. Something I really want to work with and looks so easy on youtube, but know its not from previous attempts. Odd comment, but if you wanted to maintain strength and decrease weight, seems like you could have used a hole saw to strategically open up areas prior to adding your final layer(s) that way, you would still get laminar air flow through the duct and keep weight down with strength on par with previous ducts. Just drawing a comparison to dimple dies. I would harbor a guess that if you drilled those holes, then used a decently strong tape on the backside of the ducts, and then filled the recess with fillet wax you would end up with a smooth front. Honestly not sure how much weight you would save though.

Fillet Wax: http://www.easycomposites.co.uk/#!/patt ... g-wax.html

[vierte]

Speedjunkie... If I remember correctly, you ran a bridgeport? Are you still running the bridge?

[speedjunkie]

I really need to get my composite work going. Something I really want to work with and looks so easy on youtube, but know its not from previous attempts. Odd comment, but if you wanted to maintain strength and decrease weight, seems like you could have used a hole saw to strategically open up areas prior to adding your final layer(s) that way, you would still get laminar air flow through the duct and keep weight down with strength on par with previous ducts. Just drawing a comparison to dimple dies. I would harbor a guess that if you drilled those holes, then used a decently strong tape on the backside of the ducts, and then filled the recess with fillet wax you would end up with a smooth front. Honestly not sure how much weight you would save though.

Fillet Wax: http://www.easycomposites.co.uk/#!/patt ... g-wax.html

Honestly I'm not really that concerned with their weight. Compared to so many other parts on the car, they're a drop in the bucket. Trying to make them lighter is really just splitting hairs at this point. I added AC back in, so I can't really complain about a couple ducts that probably still weigh less than a pound combined haha.

Here is how they turned out. The resin ran in some places but overall it turned out alright.

Speedjunkie... If I remember correctly, you ran a bridgeport? Are you still running the bridge?

I never ran a bridgeport on the FD. My FC has one but that engine is bad anyway. The rear iron is cracked and sprays oil when it's running. I used to have a streetport on the FD but decided to go back to stock ports, for a couple reasons. One being not having to pay to get it ported, and I don't do a great job porting myself and don't really care to get into it. Two, I don't have to worry about tuning between engines in case the ports aren't the same. And three, I figure Mazda knew what they were doing in regards to power delivery and timing with the stock ports. And I'm not shooting for huge power anyway. I'm happy with the power it currently makes. It's also surprising to most people that stock ports make as much as they do haha. Some people even argue endlessly about it, how it's impossible.


I stopped by a friend's house on the way home from work tonight. He has an 04 Civic and I measured where the tie bar would go. It came out to 16" bolt to bolt, and considering the ends on the tie bars are probably about 3-4" combined, I think it will work. So it looks like I'll be getting a couple of those and a strut bar for a 99-ish Integra.

I removed the passenger fender tonight so I can get it welded. That's about all I did tonight haha. I ordered a couple different types of H3 LED bulbs last night to try out the old RE-A lights, just to see first if they'll be bright enough. I do really like the old style more, so I'm going to see if I can make those work. And if not, then I'll order a whole new kit.

I saw these pics on facebook tonight. The diffuser on the S2000 gave me an idea of how to do mine. I didn't want one solid flat piece all the way across, I like how this one has the raised center section like mine. And the FD looks a good bit like what mine should look like by Spring. I've never seen a FEED front with sleek lights and a splitter, so this is pretty close.

[/quote]

[Shadowden]

Dude, I'm sorry. I thought I was quoting you and revised your post instead. I saved what I could.

So ashamed.

[speedjunkie]

It's cool, I think I got it back to where it was before. I did it myself while trying to fix it lol.

You're not going to commit seppuku are you? "I have brought shame on my FAMIRY!!!!"

[Shadowden]

I was on the verge...the very edge.

Sad part is, I was only quoting you to highlight your closet love for Honda...

[Saul_Good]

I was on the verge...the very edge.

Sad part is, I was only quoting you to highlight your closet love for Honda...

Hondas are fantastic. Don't hate :P

[speedjunkie]

I was on the verge...the very edge.

Sad part is, I was only quoting you to highlight your closet love for Honda...

Haha, well I'm glad you didn't go through with it.

Haha. I do love the S2k and NSX. The FWD models can be good if done right. There have just been so many owners that have made them a mockery over the years.


I got a couple of the LED lights in and tried them last night. They don't fit in the housing, they hit the lense. So I guess it's on to plan B.

[speedjunkie]

I started installing the sideskirts yesterday and was reacquainted with an issue I had with the last set. When the rear of the skirt and the middle are screwed down, the front won't push in all the way. There is a gap that widens as it extends to the front. on the last set I just pushed it in all the way and screwed it down, but it eventually cracked and I don't want to do that again. I emailed Ken at Shine and asked him and he said he hadn't seen it before and that he'd make a set and check it out himself. I told him not to worry about it, I'll just fix it myself. I have a few options, one of which Brett came up with tonight and Zico came up with one last night.. First, here are pics showing what I'm talking about.


Here is where the old ones cracked.


The first idea was cutting out the material so I can push it in flush all the way but there is a lip that presses against the fender that whole way and I'd like to keep that.


The second idea was to simply fill the open area.


Zico's idea was to cut down the middle and push the one side against the fender and then fill that gap. A great idea. Brett's idea was to cut a chunk out of where it starts pressing against the fender to allow the front part to pivot and rest against the fender and then fill whatever hole is left. Also not a bad idea. What I'd like to do is just install the damn things and be done with it lol. Or, another idea is to cut out whatever I need to from the back and then mold the folded part back in. IDK.

[Shadowden]

Another option is to install them on my S2k.

I can't see pictures at work so can't see the amount of gap involved. Depending on the amount of gap, seems like spacing it out with washers where you attach it would be the most straight forward method. Once mounted, you could fill the gap with some spray foam and add a layer or two of composite and have it be seamless. Would make reinstalling them more difficult if you ever had to remove though.

[speedjunkie]

I actually thought of another way to do it that might work pretty well and be really easy. It's kinda hard to explain without a pic though. But here goes lol.

If I cut straight down where the fold is, and then cut at an angle down the same line and take out as much as the gap is, I can reattach it and it should push in the rest of the way. I'm not sure if that makes sense lol.

[speedjunkie]

I drained the tranny the other night and a couple nights ago I removed the bottom cover and gasket, and last night I put the cover back on with just RTV, so we'll see if that works. I ordered a Fumoto drain valve so I can reclaim the oil if the tranny leaks again, and I got it tonight but it won't install all the way because it hits the tranny as I'm turning it in.
https://www.amazon.com/Fumoto-F-106N-En ... B003T7XUE4

So now I have to get an adapter to space it out from the tranny or get a different valve, like this one.
https://www.stahlbus-us.com/oil-drain-v ... l-set.html

I got the other LED bulbs tonight too and they're even longer than the first ones. The other night I started looking into doing an HID conversion. It's unreal how inexpensive they are now. Unfortunately I don't think that will work for me either, because I would want them for both high and low beam, and it's suggested to not use them for high beam since they're on and off all the time. I don't think my light housings (old school RE Amemiya) would distribute LED light properly, so that's out even if I could find bulbs that would fit. And I've been told they wouldn't distribute HID lighting either, but I'm not so sure about that. But if that is the case, the only choice it leaves me is Halogen and those were never bright enough in these lights. I already changed out the daytime running lights to LED so I'd like to do something to make this work, but I'm wondering if I'll just need to get the newer version lights and swap those to LED or whatever.

I'm taking the passenger fender back off tomorrow morning and taking it to Tom Beauchamp tomorrow afternoon to see if he can fix the crack on the lip and weld the other broken parts of it.

UPDATE: I just ordered the adapter to space out the valve, and a clip to make sure it's held shut until needed.